Re-program water level - 2007/2008 GE FL Washer

[randycmaynard]

January 9, 2010

Was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to re-program these newer front load washers for a higher water level? My machine is a 2007/2008 GE front load washer that has the electronic control panel with the large silver knob to set the cycles and several push button controls for spin speed, extra rinse, load size etc. I think many of these washers would do much better at cleaning if higher water levels were used in the cycles..... not that it's really that bad as is but a bit more water would be helpful overall.

Thanks much!

Randy Maynard
Knox,TN

 

[mrb627]

Water Plus

[rant]

I would really like to see manufacturers add a [WATER PLUS] button that would actually bring the water level up to the glass, if not higher.

Or perhaps when you increase the soil level to heavy, there were an option above heavy, like [MUDDY] that would do the trick.

I really don't understand this race to be the MOST EFFICIENT when all the manufacturer should be doing is ensuring they meet the energy star guidelines.

Funny, they would sacrifice cleaning to be the MOST EFFICIENT.

Furthermore, why can't more manufacturers offer a [SERVICE MODE] where programming functions can be modified to suit special needs situations.

Someone with an allergy to detergent should be able to modify the machine to rinse to their liking. Makes me wonder if there isn't some branch of medical organization that hasn't rated machines on rinsing for allergy suffers.

[/rant]

Malcolm

 

[randycmaynard]

Rant on, rant on...... So true!

Malcolm,

Many is the time that I wished the same over the last two years with this machine - sometimes on cold washes, if I have the time, I will add water from the water hose via the detergent compartment drawer since my machine is in the garage near an inside water spigot. I agree with the rant completely! The machine I have has worked perferctly (so far) and my only complaint is the water level issue. Is there a way to re-program on the water level that you know of?

Thanks and rant on!

 

[georgect]

Rant on, rant on, rant...

Add me to the list. I would like to see more water actually wash clothes. I don't own a front loader yet (waiting for one with at least an option to use more water).

A front loader is efficient by default and there is no need for this extent of ULTRA efficiency. Manufacturers do it just to get more of a kick back from the government for being that much more over the "efficient" level.

I read so many stories about washers smelling moldy or not getting filthy clothes clean (and having to re-wash), or taking too much time overall washing, spinning, rinsing.

I grew up with a Westinghouse front loader and it never smelled, never left clothes dirty or smelly, and just went into a spin with no issues (didn't walk either). It used a decent amount of water that clothes were plunged into, not just slapped against the drum like today's FL washers.

I wish manufacturers would just give us the option for more water usage already.

 

[sudsman]

put my name on the list in all CAPS

I DO NOT understand the "savings" of low water level washing when it take more that a hour in electricity to run the damn washer in the first place. It is MUCH harder on clothes and and a machine that has to run 2 or 3x as long will NOT last a long either. Also all cold rinises is not a good thing either. If the water is below 50 And it is in many places is does not rinse as well. also a last rinise should always be warm or about 90 for no iron goods so that the dryer does not have to run as long.. RANT RANT RANT In most plants as this one wash level is usually 6 to 8 " which on most home machines would work out to 1/8 to 1/4 the door level.. We were also taught that a 2 to 3" suds level was just were it should be. I also HATE these machines that dumb down the water temperature why the hell choose hot water if it is going to mix it with cold.. RANT RANT RANT!

 

[thomasortega]

malcom

The huge probme is the government.

Who created those standards DON'T DO LAUNDRY. They usually wear dry cleaned suits and have no idea about how a washing machine works.

The average american housekeeper usually wash whites and colors in the same load, so, a huge front loader like the Frigidaire Affinity, with a good water level (reaching the glass) would be much more energy efficient than a regular top loader because it would use less water and also reduce the number of loads.

But, with these dumb standards, the manufacturers had to reinvent the wheel and rediscover the fire to be able to offer "good but not excellent" cleaning and rinsing results.

nobody can write "this machine is rated 11kg, but for best results, load only 5 or 6 kg of clothes in it" on the instructions manual.

Also, with these ridiculous standards, detergent manufacturers had to change their formulas to something they were not used.

U.S.A is the country of the top loaders and then suddenly, flooded with front loaders that are completelly different from european and american vintage models.

I have an american front loader and I use it as my daily driver. I also have detergents from germany, USA, Argentina, Spain, Paraguay and now even lebanon.

the american Tide HE liquid is good (but again, not excellent)
It works great in my european FL, but in the affinity, if I use the recommended dose, the rinsing will be ridiculous.

I use argentinian detergent formulated for front loaders (most machines in argentina are made in Europe) and I can get excellent cleaning and the rinsing is fantastic. Most of the times I don't use the extra rinse option.

So, I think the next step, as the manufacturers are not alowed to raise the water levels, is focus on the detergents.
I love the argentinian "Skip Intelligent" formula.

It's really intelligent. the machine starts and it produces high suds, to help wetting the clothes, then it reaches the 2nd stage of it, with low suds, just to keep lint in suspension.
as soon as the machine drains, the reaches the 3rd stage, that kill the suds completelly (don't ask me how does it do that) so the first spin will be able to remove almost all the wash water from the clothes and also the tub.

the first rinse drains very light gray, almost clear and the second rinse drains totally clear.

with Tide HE in the same machine, using the recommended dose it suds half way up the glass, the first spin suds locks, the first rinse is done with the drum full of suds, the second spin usually won't happen because of the suds, etc, etc.... and the final spin has foam "flying" in the drum. I thought HE is supposed to be the abreviation of High Efficiency, not Higly Extra-sudsing.

 

[randycmaynard]

And the rant continues.......

On the HE degergent issue.... you do have to be careful on how much you use due to the fact it will create an immense amount of suds despite what is said on the container. I usually use a little less than the "recommended" amount for a load in the FL GE that I have since it will suds lock the machine which leads to, essentially, a third or fourth rinse depending on whether you have the extra rinse option on or off plus it sends the softener in during the suds lock rinse to knock the suds down so you loose that as well and may need to add a little more softener for the last rinse if you want/need it. I'm getting to where I limit the amount of softener I use as it tends to gunk/gum up the dispenser and probably other parts of the machine too.

Generally speaking, I always use the extra rinse option on larger heavier loads such as towels, bedding, heavier work clothes etc. I've also decided to start using warm (or hotter) water temp settings and leaving the cold to items that list cold water wash. I have two cold settings - one is tap cold which is the really cold (esp in winter) water with no machine heater enhancement and then regular cold which probably has some machine heater enhancement and/or some hot
water mixed in. The other three are warm, hot and sanitize.

I also use, for the most part, the highest speed spin to get as much of the detergent out as possible and sometimes if I messed up the detergent amount I will run another rinse and spin which you can actually add the 2nd rinse option to and end up with 2 rinses and a spin if it is really needed - try not to goof up the detergent so I don't use that extra rinse/spin option very often.

Well, boys (girls too!) continue the rant and if you do come up with a way to re-program the water level on one of these things by all means post.

Thanks!

P.S. - Do make good use, especially in US FL washers, of the cleaning program on the machine if it has one or run a normal cycle on the hottest water setting with some bleach or the machine cleaner tablets or powder that is available for this purpose which will help keep the softener and other residue down and keep the drum spider from going bad too soon.

 

[favorit]

energy savings when drying ?

I really can't understand why american codes insist on dumb down water usage in washers to save energy. One would prefer to make "green sacrifices" on drying rather than some compromises in washing and rinsing performance

Actually dryers use much more energy than washers
They should focus on this fact : the amount of energy a vented electric dryer uses for a load is enough to run 3 or 4 loads @ 140°F in a matching *vintage* cold-fill-only frontloader with internal heater.

Wouldn't make more sense to save on drying rather than on washing ? I understand that line drying outside in big cities like NYC is not allowed (or if it were, it would mean rewash grey clothes ....) and a indoor place for racks can be an issue ... but what about in those sunny and windy places in the countryside ? Even now here in the Alps, with plenty of snow the 1200 rpm spin is enough to have dry clothes after some hours outside on the racks.

Again, my country is the motherland of nuns, priests and co. but line drying here has never been considered a gross behaviour. Even nuns line dry outside .... they just hide their unmentionables behind sheets and towels *LOL*

 

[mysteryclock]

It isn't about the energy so much...

...as it is about this (as an example):

Originally FLs were touted as being more energy efficient but the new standards being put out include measurements of water efficiency as well for a very good reason... our good water reserves are dwindling and new ones from technical sources (desalinization, etc.) are not coming online fast enough to make up the gap.

Now, that being said even increasing the rinse level in an FL by 50% (a lot!) would still save approximately 2x over a typical TL washer, but that would probably exclude them from the new standards. That's why I agree it would be nice if there were "Service Manual" type instructions to allow more experienced folks to do that themselves.

Did not realize that warm rinsing could make such a difference drying... thanks for sharing that. Makes me wish more companies offered that.

 

[rp2813]

I can *almost* tolerate my Affinity washer's skimpy water level on normal or small loads, but it's absolutely ridiculous with the small amount of water it provides for large or bulky loads. I have a large empty Tide liquid container that I fill up usually at least twice, and add to the machine via the detergent drawer when I'm washing a set of king-sized sheets and pillow cases. This should not be necessary. With fleece sheets in particular, the machine adds so little water that they are barely soaked through, which the folks at Frigidaire/Electrolux apparently think is enough to get the job done. NOT!!! Towels are another problem. I wish I knew how to increase the water level adjustment. Then I wouldn't have to baby-sit the machine during the first few minutes of tumbling.

I've had the same experience as others have mentioned in regard to suds increasing after more water is added. At this point, I don't care if the machine fails due to too much suds. I'm so not happy with this Affinity that I can't wait to replace it with something that actually can wash and rinse adequately, and also clean itself, like my Duet could.

The local appliance warehouse had Bosch FL washers and dryers on sale for $399 each (after all rebates you may qualify for) yesterday. I was so tempted. Anything (well, except GE) would be better than my Affinity.

 

[mrb627]

Load Size Recommendations

If I am not mistaken, the Mieles actually instruct different maximum load sizes depending upon what you are washing in their manual.

Malcolm

 

[mrb627]

Mieles

I have also heard that the uber Mieles have programming that will increase the water levels. Although, nobody has ever posted a picture or a video to prove that.

I need to see it to believe it, ya know?

Malcolm

 

[bertrum]

Modern front loaders

Hi Sudsman,

quote: "I DO NOT understand the "savings" of low water level washing when it take more that a hour in electricity to run the damn washer in the first place."

Modern frontloaders use less water and use less electricity.

Basically how these machines manage to do this is to have very long wash times and to use the heating element only for a very short amount of time.

The electric motor uses very little electricity compared to the heating element so to have programmes that run for hours and hours is actually very economic.

Yes you are right about modern washers destroying clothes, washing them to death.

What most people dont realise is that since about 1990 most people have been walking around in dirty clothes!

rant over

 

[bertrum]

Hi Malcolm,
Yes Mieles and some of the Bosch washers do have a "high water option".

Defeats the object of buying a "economic" machine to have 1980 wash levels,(although you may have clean clothes again)!

 

[ptcruiser51]

LG Machines

That are higher-end have a "water plus" option that will add 15% more water to the cycle (so my factory rep tells me).

My Maytag rep says choosing a higher soil level program will add more water on both the FL and TL "Bravos" models.

Not sure about GE, but they do have a soil level program so it's worth a try.

For anyone with fabric softener goo or detergent buildup in the dispenser on FL's, all Maytag, GE, Amana, and LG models have removable dispenser drawers (usually a tab in the back). You can wash them top-rack in the dishwasher or by hand.

 

[hoover1100]

What most people dont realise is that since about 1990 most

I'm sorry but that's a rediculous thing to say.

Whilst I'm beginning to see that the water consumption of U.S. machines tends to be inadequate, especially with the short wash times, modern European machines wash and rinse as well, often better than their older counterparts whilst using considerably less water and energy, providing they are used properly.

This means simply not going mad on the detergent doses, not packing them full, and not using really high sudsing products.

Also, I have never had any item of clothing damaged in any way, even over a long period of multiple washings, in any machine, even ones that take over 2hours to complete a load, so that's completely untrue as well.

Using any European machine and European detergents, it is always possible to get clothes perfectly clean and perfectly rinsed. It's just a case of altering your laundry habits as per the machine.

Not to mention that for most of the 90s, most machines used almost as much, if not as much water/energy as they did in the 80s.

If they just beefed up the quality to match the machines of 30 years ago, yet kept modern programming and water/energy consumption, you'd have an excellent machine, i.e. Modern Mieles.

Matt

 

[aquacycle]

^Matt, I completely agree. It's ridiculous to say that everyone has been walking around in dirty clothes. I mean, I cook dinner and I'm not very good at it and end up covered in all sorts - pasta sauce and baked bean sauce being the 2 favorites. Sometimes, it's a few days before I was them. They go into the machine, they come out and voila, the stain is gone. How is that not clean, exactley?

 

[mark_wpduet]

I realize that the LG (water plus) doesn't add much more water, but I have been DYING to see a vid of the Kenmore HE washers that have the "Skincare Rinse II"..I read on a blog once where someone stated it takes the rinse water up to the bottom of the glass, and NOW Whirlpool has this on their newest models that have 4.4 cu feet drum. I don't mind the low water washing at all, but the option for a deep rinse would be perfect for me to wash all the slime away. Luckily, the current Duet I have has been adjusted slightly by me so it uses a bit more water than it did. Lots of sloshing..I know this pic doesn't look like MUCH more water, but it is! If anyone has seen the skincare rinse in action, please let me know what you think....Thanks

 

[sudsman]

bertrum

The heating cycle on these machine do NOT run for a short time they run for a LONG time read some of what is actually said . some run 2 or 3 hours. maybe so there but NOT here. So there is really NO savings at all!