Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

[beekeyknee]

To the best of my recollection this is my step by step rebuild, with photos, from last summer of a Maytag Newton style trans. put into a newer LAT model. I hope this is helpful to someone.

Here’s the HA408 machine’s top. Almost hated to take it apart. It was salvageable. It came with a HDE606. Second down from TOL (excluding 906 of course). Good shape too.

 

[beekeyknee]

This is the configuration I used to fill the 408 the first time to check for operation and get the agitator off. Hot supply from inside the house to hot side of valve. Washer hose connected to cold side and the other end in tub.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put in the hottest tap water available with lots of detergent and phosphate.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put a piece of semi-rigid aquarium tubing with soft tubing on the end under the agitator to get at the air bubble underneath the agitator and sucked the air bubble out. Put the machine into agitate for several minutes and then let it set for several more. Reached in with rubber gloves, rocked, pulled and the agitator came off pretty easily. Better than stuffing it with rags and pouring on boiling water, I think.

 

[beekeyknee]

Use PB Blaster and a toothbrush to clean out splined hole.

 

[beekeyknee]

Scrubbed at spanner nut and shaft with PB Blaster and wire brush and let set over night.

 

[beekeyknee]

Spanner wrench and mallet wouldn't touch it. Cracked it off with cold chisel.

 

[beekeyknee]

Mounting stem cover removed. Shouldn't have taken out the clip and washer and dug out the agitator drive shaft seal before lifting out the old mounting stem. I think the old ADS seal could possibly be reused underneath the new style mounting stem if you didn't have a NOS drive shaft seal. It seems as if the extra seal just provides a little push under the new style stem mount for an extra guard against leaks. It might be able to be reused in a pinch if it were cleaned and re-greased. I would be willing to try it if I didn't have a new one. Anyway, I'm saving the old seals in the future.

 

[beekeyknee]

The underside before any parts were removed. This washer has had a replacement motor.

 

[beekeyknee]

Parts from underneath.

 

[beekeyknee]

Old style Mallory “scritching” timer.

 

[beekeyknee]

Diagram of motor and water valve connections in case I would want to re-assemble the 408 someday.

 

[beekeyknee]

Mounting stem wouldn't budge.

 

[beekeyknee]

Used this...

 

[beekeyknee]

...to cut off mounting stem.

 

[beekeyknee]

See how I almost cut too far? The other side was better.

 

[beekeyknee]

Wash basket removed.

 

[beekeyknee]

These people had undesirable water.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's the old boot seal while in the tub.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's the tub bearing still in the tub.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's the tub bearing removed from the tub and cleaned. The bearing is removed from the tub by elevating the tub with a couple of 2x4's on each side to protect the porcelain drain tube. Puting some turbine oil around the outside of the bearing where the rubber part contacts the porcelain should help remove it. Put a clean cloth over the bearing, put your foot on it and push down while rocking your foot around in a circular motion with gradually increasing pressure until the bearing is pushed from the bottom of the tub. Be patient and don't push hard all at once to keep from damaging the tub.

I cleaned the bearing by first knocking away all the loose particles of dirt and metal shavings I had made cutting off the mounting stem by using a stiff toothbrush brush. Then I dampened the brush with kerosene or other light solvent that isn't harmful to rubber and cleaned the outside of the bearing, used a lint free cloth and polished up the rubber with Pledge. Rubber protectant (Armor All) could also be used too, I guess. After the outside was clean I very carefully wiped out the bronze inside of the bearing with a microfiber cloth. Be careful not to mar it's surface.

 

[beekeyknee]

Bottom view. Pull the rubber back away from the bronze bushing on the bottom of the bearing and saturate the wicking with turbine oil. This is for the old style (fat) bearings. Depending on the age of the bearing it may absorb more or less oil. When the absorption slows down the wicking is saturated and no more oil is necessary. Then put a film of the oil on the inside of the bearing and on the outside of the new spin tube and insert. I put in a new spin tube for good measure. Your old one could be reused if it's not very worn and fits smoothly inside the bearing without any slop between the inter bronze piece and the tube. It should spin inside the bearing like wet ice, gliding on the film of oil. Likewise the tube should also slide easily over the trans. neck with no slop or binding at all. The trans. neck should be polished with a very fine emery paper and wiped completely clean with a lint free cloth until it has a bright satin look to it. The neck, tube and inside of the bearing all have very close tolerances and have to be contaminate free to operate properly for a good spin. If you have the new type bearing apply a coat of oil to both the inside bronze surface and the outside spin surface of the tube and slide together.

 

[beekeyknee]

Bottom view with new spin tube inserted.

 

[beekeyknee]

Off topic, but this is the technique I use to fill an old style (chubby type) tub bearing if you're not going to disassemble the machine. Put 18 gauge needle on hypodermic syringe and fill with turbine oil. An 18 gauge needle base is light pink.

 

[beekeyknee]

Inject bearing with 6 or 9 CC's (ml) of the oil depending on how old the machine is. Clean pulleys, put in new carriage glides if worn and clean and re-lube carriage and glides with poly-lube. Replace belts if glazed, frayed or cracked. Put washer into spin let it spin until the bearing heats up. This should bring spin speed back up.

 

[beekeyknee]

Tub's out. Not too bad considering it's from 1976.

 

[beekeyknee]

Trans. neck with old spin tube still on.

 

[beekeyknee]

Trans. neck with spin tube off.

 

[beekeyknee]

Trans. neck and tube cleaned up. This is the old tube. See how shiny it is? Like I said earlier, I could have probably used the old tube but I elected to go for a new one for hopefully longer wear.

 

[beekeyknee]

Place machine on its side to get to the drive pulley. Legs can be removed for cleaning and removing possible rust at this time also.