Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

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Remove the pinion and put a scribe mark on the old hole where the pin went. If the pinion is ever to be used in the future the same hole for the groove pin must not be used.

 

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Then the lug and spline washers come off.

 

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Put all parts in a smooth container and use a non-shedding brush to clean.

 

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Get a pick set.

 

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These worked nicely.

 

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Good uses for set.

 

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You can kind of see the old O-ring down in the tube.

 

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The complex pick worked good to dislodge the old ring from the tube and the hook pick pulled it out.

 

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Clean the small parts then remove and clean the transmission housing. Be careful not to drop the transmission halves on the bottom of a plastic tub. I did and it cracked it, so I had to grab up the cracked end to keep the kerosene from running out. When I finished I got a funnel and put the kerosene back in the jug.

 

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Place parts on lint free towels to dry.

 

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Grooved gear studs provide oil to wearing surfaces.

 

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I washed this orifice out repeatedly while turning the shaft. I wanted to get it as clean as possible since it wasn't coming apart.

 

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Everything came out really nice. The triangular holes in this intermediate gear indicate OPM at 63. If they were circular it would indicate 54.

 

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See the wear on the inside of this Pitman arm? Probably from millions of turns.

 

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Starting the new O-ring down the drive tube.

 

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As I recall, I believe I used the 90 degree and straight pick to install the O-ring. I pushed the lower side of the ring down with the 90 degree pick while pushing the upper side of the ring down with the straight pick and then a combination of the two to situate the ring in the groove below the bushing. I think it took me about 10 or 15 minutes to get the ring in place. I may have started over a second time and put a small amount of transmission oil on the ring to help it slide better. When the bottom edge of the ring was even with the groove I put the 90 degree pick below it to keep it from sliding down any further while using the straight pick to push the rest of its circumference into its resting place. The ring tends to pop into place once it reaches its groove because of the rings natural tendency to expand to its original shape. Absolutely make sure the ring is in its proper place before proceeding.

 

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The compatibility of the oil with this splined washer.

 

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The back label on the gear oil container.

 

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The front of the container showing the GL rating. This oil came from NAPA Auto Parts.

 

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New splined and lug washer.

 

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Splined washer goes on top of drive shaft first.

 

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Lug washer goes on top of splined washer second.

 

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Nylon pinion goes on next.

 

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Nickel worked well to tighten pinion screw.

 

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Tighten screw and put groove pin in hole closest to top of flat to keep screw from moving.

 

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Push pin down flush with top of screw. I noticed pinion is translucent.

 

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Pour a small amount of gear oil in a bowl. Apply it to the drive shaft.

 

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Coat helix well too.

 

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Start drive shaft carefully down drive tube.

 

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Maytag originally made a guide to place over the end of the drive shaft that had a spiral that threaded up the helix to make the end of the shaft completely smooth so it would pass by the O-ring easily. If you're careful it can be done without it. Start the shaft down the tube while turning slowly clockwise. When the helix reaches the O-ring it should start to thread its self into the helix. Keep turning the shaft and you should see it slowly pulling its self down pasting the O-ring. When it gets to the top of the helix it will stop moving downward. At this point I grabbed the pinion while slowly turning clockwise and applied a steadily increasing downward pressure. If all go’s well the O-ring will give way and compress itself into the groove and create a tight seal between the drive tube and shaft. Then the shaft should push straight down and the lugs on the washer should engage with the slots in the bottom half of the transmission case.