Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

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Spin pulley off counter clockwise. Brake rotor bearing is underneath. Take note of the way the bearing was on. Flat side faces the bottom of machine (upward) and the rounded side faces the pulley (downward). The bottom of the bearing naturally fits over the concave shape of the pulley’s hub.

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Take off the brake retainer clip and bolt. If you have the old type brake package you can check the tightness of the hex head bolts that hold the brake together at this time. I thought it was probably wise to do before I started banging on it.

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Remove brake. It's nice to have a brake package tool for this, but if you don't have it, it can be done with some vice-grips and a hammer. It kind of bungs up the edge of the brake, but I suspect some layers of rubber rapped around the edge of the brake before hammering might protect it. I'd be willing to try it if I didn't have the tool. I was lucky. I got mine for $10.00. The position of the tool in this pic is for tightening. Reverse tool direction to loosen. The transmission will spin when you're removing the brake

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I use some unorthodox ways of doing things sometimes. I've usually never gone wrong. I soaked the radial and brake rotor bearing in kerosene, turning them while submerged to remove the old grease and put them on a paper towel to dry over night. Then I put the bearings in a double boiler with some new grease and just heated the grease to liquify it a bit and turned the bearing while submerged. This re-impregnated the bearing with new grease. The brake rotor bearing can be packed by hand but the radial bearing is too tight. Not completely sealed but too tight to pack by hand, in my opinion anyway. Take the bearings off the heat and let cool over night. Then dig out and store away in a Baggie for reuse later. If a person had a vacuum chamber or Seal-A-Meal I suppose one could place the bearings in it with some grease to suck out the air and displace it with grease. If the bearings are very worn just replace them. The radial bearing has little or no play. The brake rotor bearing isn't as tight but should spin freely before greased. Of course the kerosene procedure should all be done with neoprene gloves on.

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A picture of the underneath side of the damper with the brake off. See the damper pad sticking out between the damper and base? This machine was getting ready to go bad.

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Here's all the rubber parts. I clean these in hot water with lots of soap and a green scratchy pad. Then I take the air dome with hose, fill the dome about half way with baking soda, pour vinegar down the dome, pinch around on the dome, pour in more vinegar until it starts to come out the tube at the other end. I keep repeating this until it's clean. I don't want old muck and hard water deposits to interfere with the water level switch.

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Then I take all the rubber parts in the previous post, arrange them in the bottom of a pot, pour rubber protectant (Armor All type stuff) over them making sure all the air bubbles are out of the tubes, cover the pot and cook it in the oven at around 175-200 degrees for 24 hours. The parts usually come out like brand new. If they're starting to degenerate this may not work. The bleach tube didn't soften up much, but it didn't hurt it.

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O-ring at the top is the one I ordered from Direct Maytag (Whirlpool) to find the correct size. The three directly below it are from Ace Hardware. The O-ring at the bottom right is the one I cut while removing the mounting stem. The three to the left of it are from Ace. Took the two original rings to Ace Hardware and matched the sizes. The rings are made by Serv-a-lite. The small ring was labeled ORM-206-315. Its measurements are: I.D. 15mm/ O.D. 21mm/ Thickness 3mm. The large ring was labeled ORM-206-325. Its measurements are: I.D. 25 mm/ O.D. 31/ Thickness 3mm. These are the rings to go for. The cost was only about $1.40-$1.50. Much better than the $17.00 Maytag (Whirlpool) wanted for them. Thought you guys might like this info.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-08:32]

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This is the agitator drive shaft pinion I don't recommend removing. I have been advised that it usually doesn't go very well. I tried and gave up. Even if you get it out there's no guarantee it won't be worse if you CAN reinstall it.

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Washer over Pitman arm and gear. In some older models there was a cover plate with bolts that held this down and I believe in even older models there was no retainers at all. When you took the cover off the transmission and turned it over to dump the oil the gears would just fall out.

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When you get to the top of the helix you should feel the O-ring start to thread into the helix. Keep turning and the shaft should move slowly past the O-ring.

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