Refrigerator repair

[beekeyknee]

Matt is right about the frost pattern on the coils. If only part of the coils are getting cold, you've probably got a low charge. Is the circulating fan inside the freezer/refrigerator running at the proper speed? Is the air circulation inside the unit unimpeded? If the charge is right, start looking at the circulation fan and pattern.

I remember reading on a thread here in the past about these bottom freezer Frigidaires being problematic. Don't remember where.

Did some looking. Try thread # 38870 reply # 15. That might be the one I was thinking of. [this post was last edited: 6/12/2014-00:48]

 

[leland]

I think the compressor is weak can't find a freon leak with my matco freon detector here ar pictures of the coils

 

[beekeyknee]

It kinda looks like part of the coils are frosty and part aren't.

 

[philr]

I can't tell you what's the problem but you'll need to have the sealed system checked. I have a fridge that had it's compressor replaced and it works great. 

 

Here's the evaporator in my 1963 Frigidaire. This one has the original refrigerating system that's working fine. I also have one just like yours (well, a year newer) that needs work on the refrigerating system. I hope to have the money to have some work done on it soon.

 

[neptunebob]

Could it be?

If it is frostless, we had this happen, the defroster timer is stuck closed and thus, the machine is refrigerating and defrosting itself at the same time, never cooling and wasting a lot of energy. Although I do not see a heating coil there that could happen.

 

[leland]

How can I check to see if the defrost is stuck on

 

[everythingold]

Could be a blockage in the coolant line. I have had some success working them through on old machines. Turn them on and off. If it wouldn't dislodge a compressor job is needed.

If the defrost is on, just disconnect the heater, which will help you diagnose what is happening.

 

[philr]

On the picture, you can see the defrost heater isn't stuck on, because the heating coils are frosted! If it would be stuck on, you'd notice! 

 

I think you're at the point that you need to have the sealed system checked, either for low refrigerant or for a bad compressor. Be sure to call a technician that knows something about old refrigerators because most won't even bother working on that thing. The older pre-1963 models are more likely to leak from the cold plate in the refrigerator section but these don't have one. 

 

The things that are most likely to go wrong after 50 years on these refrigerators are the defrost elements, (they can work but be shorted to the ground), the various electrical heaters (drain heater, butter conditioner and mullion heaters), the compressors, the defrost timers and the fan motors. The original type defrost timers and fan motors are still fairly easy to get. The defrost element is harder to locate and it can be a pain to replace. I wouldn't be surprised if yours was already replaced as the fins of the evaporator are a bit distorted. 

 

 

 

The compressors sometimes loose their oil (and refrigerant) at the electrical connectors, if there are any traces of oil coming from them, that could be the problem. 

 

I wish you good luck with the repairs and keep us updated! I'll have to do the same with my 1965 soon... Mine doesn't even cool!

 

 

 

[everythingold]

I just fixed a GE today

It had a half frost pattern, which was caused by a bad relay. The relay kicked the compressor over, but not at full speed, or reliably, causing the half frost pattern. Replaced the relay and it worked fine.

 

[leland]

everythingold

do you think you could come check this one out

 

[everythingold]

Maybe, I don't usually get over to that side of the state. call me. 616 490 4777

 

[combo52]

You Probably Have a Low Charge [ LEAK ]

The way to diagnose this is to add about 4 Oz of R-12 refrigerant and see if the frost pattern improves, if it does not then you have a restriction, probably a clogged dryer.

When you add refrigerant had some dye, so that you can find the likely leak.

 

[epixstar128]

Ok ok without gauges on the system hardto tell anything. First you need to verify charge. Find the name plate charge buy little cans of refrigerant to equal tgat charge. Find a port (if one exist) let most of tge refrigerant out of the compressor till just a few psi is left. Leave your new refrigerant out in the sun and let it get nice and hot. Add your new charge in one can at a time. If tge refrigerant wont move out of the can put a bag of ice on your coils. I would help u out but doing refrigeration work im working 65 hours a week right now

 

[everythingold]

I have always wondered..

If there is a leak, doesn't all the coolant leak out? Leaks don't usually plug themselves. Are there other ways you get low coolant levels?

 

[philr]

I have seen some refrigerators (I mean old Frigidaire refrigerators!) that leak oil from their compressors electrical connectors when unused or after being transported (in cold weather?) and the leak can stop by itself. It happened to one that I moved in January a few years ago. There was some oil on the floor under the compressor where we initially installed it and then moved it to the basement and it's been leak-free since (that happened 2 years 1/2 ago and it's still working great). 

 

 

[combo52]

I Have Always Wondered

Yes eventually all the refrigerant will leak out, but leaks can easily be as small as a 1/2 oz per year and a Frigidaire ref like this holds almost 20oz of R-12 so it could take 40 years till all the R-12 leaks out AFTER the leak starts.