Repair advice for 1957 Kenmore Dryer Heating Element

[leetintary]

I was able to get a heating element through Ebay that is a close match for the one that was in my 1957 Kenmore Automatic Dryer that had a broken string; however the old string was one continuous piece and hooked over two keys at the end being held down by washers and screws while the new one is two strings (top and bottom) with three keys that are with the string soldered on. Now, the problem is that there are only slots on the housing of the old element for two keys, so I have three ways forward: 1) keep the one key that has the two wires soldered and for the one that ends in two keys, snip one of the wires and solder it to the other key, so that I now have two keys on each side; 2) snip all the wires and hook them over the old keys in a way similar to the old one; 3) keep the one new key that has the two wires brought together and snip the other side that has two keys, then hook them over one of the old keys. I bought a multimeter last week and learned how to do continuity tests, so maybe this week will be a soldering gun? Thanks for all of your advice and help on this one: see photos.

 

[leetintary]

What about removing one of the strings?

The other possibility I'm considering is to remove the lower string (spring) and just snip one of the two wires, leaving the top string with a single contact on each side.

 

[henene4]

You'd definitely have to use the entire length of the wire.
Otherwise the heating power and dissipation can get screwed up leading to an array of issues.

If I ain't mistaken, the 2 sections are ment to allow 2 heat outputs.
Heat output is different from the end temperature. The higher the heat output the hotter the air gets after passing over the coil. The air volume per time is constant, so the temperature after passing over really only depends on how much energy is dumped.

The end temperature is controlled by the thermostats.
A lower heat output is good for fabrics sensitive to heat. A 200F+ hot air stream might damage dainty fabrics even if the heater is cycled off once the laundry reaches a lower temp.

As you current dryer apparently only has 1 heater wattage, it's just one piece.

The dryer your element comes from has 2.
So you have to convert to 2 to 1.

I can't completely follow your description, but I guess it is either a Y shape (2 shorter sections of nichrome meeting with 1 longer section of the material) or 2 parallel strips terminating in the same metal terminal without actually meeting.

Now these following are assumptions - I don't know for certain if the dryer your replacement element comes from operates that way.

But most likely, it was designed so that during full heat, power would be applied to both legs on one side and neutral/second phase on the other side.

During reduced heat, only one leg would be energiesed and the other would be disconnected by a switch.

So since your dryer apparently only operates on full heat output, you want both legs connected all the time.

You could to that by cutting off one leg and splicing it in.
You probably can't use normal solder though. These elements get red hot - hot enough to melt normal solder.
But I think there are special nichrome heater repair kits that have special wire not type connectors made of high temp resistant material. These should work.

The other option - and the better one in my opinion - would be to bridge the the 2 other terminals aswell.
Some wire and connections would be pretty easy to do.

 

[combo52]

Heating Element Problems

The element you got is the Wrong Element for your dryer. [ disregard post #2 there is no correct information there pertaining to your dryers need for a replacement element ]

 

The element you got is either designed for a 1962-3 Kenmore soft-heat dryer or is an 8200 watt element for 1955-60 Hi-Speed dryers that need a 50 amp circuit to operate. [ with a part # I could tell which one you got ]

 

You can modify it to work by cutting out the shorter thiner element and just hooking the two wires from you dryer to the two posts with the heavier element and it will work fine if you don't want to return it.

 

John L.

 

[bradfordwhite]

John L

You really need to work on interpersonal skills:
"[ disregard post #2 there is no correct information there pertaining to your dryers need for a replacement element ]"
is blatantly rude,
and makes you look bad,
which discounts your advice EXTREMELY.

Henene4 is at least trying to help and bothered to make a post.
Supposedly you are trying to help as well. Whether he is correct or partially correct or if you are correct or not, is for the author and other readers to decide.

You seem to be "experienced" which we all can appreciate, but often it's difficult to "hear" you given your attitude toward others on numerous occasions.

 

[sprog]

Swing and a miss

Sorry Bradfordwhite,
I entirely disagree with your post. John L. is 100% correct. When dealing with electricity, this is not subject to being "partially correct". Although well-intentioned, if a post is wrong, or unclear, we need to know. I appreciate John's candor and willingness to render correct information.

Also, if there is a hack or workaround, John has many times acknowledged these situations.

John, keep the facts flowing!

 

[bradfordwhite]

Yes SPROG

You have SWUNG and MISSED.

Attempting to twist a conversation to make it seem like something it isn't.

As was stated in my post to John L.; Interpersonal skills are an issue here and in other posts
and NOT John L.'s skills as an appliance repair person as you are incorrectly asserting.

In fact, I even went as far as to assume his positive skills and knowledge in my post.

Whether the other poster or whether John L. is correct about the dryer heater issue is not the point here.

If a person has something to add that is different than previous comments there is no need to do flat out character assassination on that other party.

None of us are perfect when we comment. My comments are only meant to help John L. and I'm sure he knows that.

Also, if you're hoping there is a magical appliance god who knows everything.... that know-it-all god doesn't exist.

 

[keith]

I’m with John and Sprog

Posts with dangerously wrong (fatal in this case) information must be disregarded as the OP came here for information on a fix thereby isn’t the burden of ‘deciding what’s right’ shouldn’t be out on him. If the info is wrong it’s wrong.

John is right for being blunt, people can die with electricity or burn their house down. No need to dance around it. No ones feelings need to be hurt, but in the case hurt feelings verses actual people getting hurt I’d choose hurt feelings any day.

I voiced this opinion (we are here to spread facts) in another thread and was basically told to shut up, they also ripped on John for attempting to do the same. Things have gone downhill ‘round here it seems.

 

[goatfarmer]

.....and aaawwwaaayyy we go.....!

 

[keith]

Lol@Goatfarmer

I didn’t mean to derail the thread or start infighting. Just things I’ve noticed. I’ve been lurking since 2005 and have noticed a lot of changes in membership and people’s reaction to things. That’s all. I respect both John, and BradfordWhite.Disagreeing has nothing to do with respecting. OP was looking for assistance and we all want them to get the assistance they need, and safely.

 

[bradfordwhite]

Keith you seem disappointed.

You've only been on the site for less than a year and perhaps it's news: Much like Facebook, Reddit, and other blog sites, no one here is a paid expert. We all are "participants" with varying levels of undocumented interest in appliances. We offer our Opinions and experiences.

There is no obligation for anyone here to guarantee their opinions or even offer an opinion, advice, or knowledge. To do so would create a legal obligation on the part of the site owner and possibly those offering such opinions.

For example, It's not unusual for a person to ask for advice and for that request to go unanswered.

It's a social site for people with similar interests in appliances. We're grateful to Robert for offering the site and as such it's his playground. He has requested that we be respectful to each other AND do our best to use the proper forum for our subject matter.

With that stated, you clicked on this, of the MANY, posts so it must have been of interest to you.
Do you have personal advice or opinions to the author on how he could repair his 1957 Kenmore Dryer Heating Element?

 

[goatfarmer]

It's all good!

 

[keith]

Bradfordwhite,

Your response was very well stated and I do appreciate your explanation. One of the reasons I do respect what you have to say. I signed up late last year due to an issue with my speed Queen that John and others helped me with. As I said previously I’ve been lurking on the site since 2005 and have used it to fix several appliances by using previous posts, only finding a need to actually sign up in 2020, so I have seen and have read other people over the years comment on the turnover of participants (that’s a perfect way to put it). Lately people seem to be putting opinions out there as fact however, with no first hand knowledge no less, and this I take issue with.

As for this particular issue, No I have no advice on the particular issue other than knowing incorrectly wiring up a 240v 50amp (potentially) circuit can be lethal or cause a fire, which is why I didn’t comment on a potential fix. I am an auto tech and enjoy reading and learning about all things mechanical, old and new so I usually look at most new posts when I have time. Sometimes I’ve dealt with an issue and can offer assistance. Most of the times I just lurk.

 

[maytag85]

I usually post when there’s something interesting or if something catches my attention but otherwise I just keep to myself since I don’t feel like posting just to post and getting myself into a debacle.

I always double check and take photos of something before I take it apart so I have a reference when I put it back together. Earlier this year, I tried putting a water level switch on my ‘63 Whirlpool that came off of a junked 80’s Maytag washer and assumed it would be the same but when I went to try it out, the machine literally did nothing when it filled but spun perfectly fine and usually mis-wiring something can either fry something or pop the breaker or simply won’t work at all.

 

[leetintary]

Burning smell with new element installation.

So, I snipped the lower coil and removed it from the element. Then, I reinstalled everything. When I tried running the dryer for five minutes on low, it heated very hot very quickly but also produced a strong burning smell that was not very noticeable from the back of the machine but was strong when opening the door. There was no visible smoke. Is this at all normal with a new element installation or do I need to wait now and get a professional to try servicing it? Thanks.

 

[bradfordwhite]

I won't comment on whether your new install is correct.

As for the burning smell of a new heating element: yes, there is typically a burning smell if it hasn't been tested at the factory. As long as the heater is installed correctly and not touching anything that it might be burning, the smell is that of oils burning off. Sometimes it goes away after an hour, sometimes it takes much longer.

For example when I've bought electric baseboard heaters they always stink at first. In fact the manufacture even mentions that in the installation instructions. Now, when I buy a baseboard heater by default I connect it to electric and set it OUTSIDE for a week, in an area protected from weather, and just let it run full time for a week to burn off the smell.

Even after it's run for a week outside, where the smell can just blow away, when one brings it inside and uses it, it still smells for about a month but not as bad.

Another good example is spilling butter on a typical electric cook top element. It will smell as it burns that off.

You also have a 60 year old dryer with lint particles in the heater duct. Those have been disturbed and will burn off as the dryer gets re-acclimated.

 

[leetintary]

Smell is going away

A load of jeans is almost dry and the smell is going away. If I'm lucky, it will keep working a couple of more years.

 

[maytag85]

I believe your Kenmore dryer may even have a second fan to help with the drying speed since that’s what they had in the early 50’s on the electric models with a 4500 watt heat output.