davy1063
Well-known member
sure as hell came off easier than my WCIL tub bolt!
Restoring the Unimatic WO-65 - HELP NEEDED!
- Thread starter thomasortega
- Start date
Help Support :
Wooooo hoooooooo!
The tub was released...
Next issue:
Removing the tub from the machine
It weights like hell and I can't do this alone.
(maybe I should ask one or two or all of the five sexy security guards to help me LOL)
The tub was released...
Next issue:
Removing the tub from the machine
It weights like hell and I can't do this alone.
(maybe I should ask one or two or all of the five sexy security guards to help me LOL)
rollermatic
Well-known member
i spoke with mark michaels
today and i asked him about the bellows you need. he says he has them both! that's a big step towards getting your machine running again.
also when you pull the tub out be careful not to damage in any way the water seal. they are pretty much n.l.a.
i always put a plastic bag or a cut off 2 liter coke bottle over mine to keep it from getting knicked from anything. it has to be perfect to seal properly. the other side of it is the bronze mating surface that will be attached to the bottom of your tub when you pull it. this can also be easily removed if you like ( i put mine in a plastic bag) until you are ready to reinstall tub.
good luck
today and i asked him about the bellows you need. he says he has them both! that's a big step towards getting your machine running again.
also when you pull the tub out be careful not to damage in any way the water seal. they are pretty much n.l.a.
i always put a plastic bag or a cut off 2 liter coke bottle over mine to keep it from getting knicked from anything. it has to be perfect to seal properly. the other side of it is the bronze mating surface that will be attached to the bottom of your tub when you pull it. this can also be easily removed if you like ( i put mine in a plastic bag) until you are ready to reinstall tub.
good luck
Update Dec 26 - Saturday night
Thanks Peter! Your help is also very welcome an important to this restoration.
This afternoon the restoration had a great evolution. It was very pleasant to have Steve (Gyrafoam) following the work and helping me step by step during the whole afternoon and beginning of evening. We had a lot of fun on Skype.
First he gave me the courage to try to remove the tub by myself. I'm strong, but I was thinking the tub was too heavy and afraid I wouldn't be able to handle it, let it fall and damage the shaft.
after rechecking all the steps with Steve and also putting an old door mat on the floor to avoid any grease stains on it and also placing a piece of fabric in the drain plug to avoid loosing the shaft key, I used all my force to pull that tub out.
Instantly I discovered the "it weights like hell" isn't much heavier than a modern tub. Well, it's heavy, but not like hell. LOL
Than I had good and bad news:
The tub looks like new. It has some hard water stains and the hub is a little bit rusted but nothing that can't be easily removed. that little cap on the balance ring is perfect.
There is (there was because i cleaned it already) a lot of lint on the tub drain holes.
the bottom of the cabinet is rusted, but luckily nothing too serious too.
the hard water + lint + detergent and softener residues created some kind of coating that protected the bottom and part of the sides of the cabinet.
That big rubber part (I forgot it's name) looks awful, all the screws are severely rusted and there are some "bubbles" on it, but it clearly shows it will give me many other years of use before it needs replacing.
Bad news, and I was saved by the webcam.
Steve warned me about that locking tabs, copper ring, etc.
Again, my idea to recheck all the instructions in real time and if possible with an expert following everything by the webcam worked perfectly.
There's a nut and a thin metal (looks like steel or aluminum) washer under it.
Like a curious kid, I gently tried to bounce the shaft and (good news) that huge nut isn't tight, so I won't need a wrench to remove it. YAY!
The work stopped because I'll need to turn the machine (I don't want to damage my bedroom's floor) to reach the rear opening of it and place something (or maybe ask a friend) to hold the motor and the transmission before I remove that nut, as I don't want it to fall and damage the drain pump.
Bad news: inside the nut there's a part (Steve said it's name but I can't remember now) that looks like a rubber ring with a small metal coil that acts almost like a rubber band.
I can see that part is very damaged (it has some holes) and it wasn't difficult to remove that coil and put it back.
Now I'm going to take a break (clean the tub while that) until I can release that transmission.
Next step after removing it is disassembling the transmission and cleaning all the parts.
Maybe I'll take it to an auto repair shop to wash the parts using an ultrasonic washing machine. or just let it soak for a few days in "thinner".
I'm going to finally clean up my bedroom (mom says it looks like a warehouse) and make room for a table that I'll use to work on the transmission.
The way things are going, Steve with his precious help in real time and you with precious help by this thread, my machine will be like new in less than a month + parts delivery time.
------------------------------
Big question: What's the best way to remove all that rust?
I have a product that I use to remove rust stains on fabrics and ceramic floors that works great. It has oxalic acid in it's formula.
I'm sure it's going to make the rust "dissapear" in seconds but.... it it safe? Won't it corrode even more?
What would you do to remove that rust? i mean, everything seems to be ok even with the rust. Should I really remove it or just leave it as it is?
Steve found all parts I'm going to need. he's just waiting until I reach the transmission to see if I won't need more parts and order all of them at once.
By the way, the lid hande and the "Frigidaire made only by GM" plate weren't found yet. Somebody....? Please!
Here goes a video, this is NOT my machine but exactly how I want my machine to be..
It's owner is also very handsome... Maybe someday I'll be handsome like him LOL. Who's he?
Thanks Peter! Your help is also very welcome an important to this restoration.
This afternoon the restoration had a great evolution. It was very pleasant to have Steve (Gyrafoam) following the work and helping me step by step during the whole afternoon and beginning of evening. We had a lot of fun on Skype.
First he gave me the courage to try to remove the tub by myself. I'm strong, but I was thinking the tub was too heavy and afraid I wouldn't be able to handle it, let it fall and damage the shaft.
after rechecking all the steps with Steve and also putting an old door mat on the floor to avoid any grease stains on it and also placing a piece of fabric in the drain plug to avoid loosing the shaft key, I used all my force to pull that tub out.
Instantly I discovered the "it weights like hell" isn't much heavier than a modern tub. Well, it's heavy, but not like hell. LOL
Than I had good and bad news:
The tub looks like new. It has some hard water stains and the hub is a little bit rusted but nothing that can't be easily removed. that little cap on the balance ring is perfect.
There is (there was because i cleaned it already) a lot of lint on the tub drain holes.
the bottom of the cabinet is rusted, but luckily nothing too serious too.
the hard water + lint + detergent and softener residues created some kind of coating that protected the bottom and part of the sides of the cabinet.
That big rubber part (I forgot it's name) looks awful, all the screws are severely rusted and there are some "bubbles" on it, but it clearly shows it will give me many other years of use before it needs replacing.
Bad news, and I was saved by the webcam.
Steve warned me about that locking tabs, copper ring, etc.
Again, my idea to recheck all the instructions in real time and if possible with an expert following everything by the webcam worked perfectly.
There's a nut and a thin metal (looks like steel or aluminum) washer under it.
Like a curious kid, I gently tried to bounce the shaft and (good news) that huge nut isn't tight, so I won't need a wrench to remove it. YAY!
The work stopped because I'll need to turn the machine (I don't want to damage my bedroom's floor) to reach the rear opening of it and place something (or maybe ask a friend) to hold the motor and the transmission before I remove that nut, as I don't want it to fall and damage the drain pump.
Bad news: inside the nut there's a part (Steve said it's name but I can't remember now) that looks like a rubber ring with a small metal coil that acts almost like a rubber band.
I can see that part is very damaged (it has some holes) and it wasn't difficult to remove that coil and put it back.
Now I'm going to take a break (clean the tub while that) until I can release that transmission.
Next step after removing it is disassembling the transmission and cleaning all the parts.
Maybe I'll take it to an auto repair shop to wash the parts using an ultrasonic washing machine. or just let it soak for a few days in "thinner".
I'm going to finally clean up my bedroom (mom says it looks like a warehouse) and make room for a table that I'll use to work on the transmission.
The way things are going, Steve with his precious help in real time and you with precious help by this thread, my machine will be like new in less than a month + parts delivery time.
------------------------------
Big question: What's the best way to remove all that rust?
I have a product that I use to remove rust stains on fabrics and ceramic floors that works great. It has oxalic acid in it's formula.
I'm sure it's going to make the rust "dissapear" in seconds but.... it it safe? Won't it corrode even more?
What would you do to remove that rust? i mean, everything seems to be ok even with the rust. Should I really remove it or just leave it as it is?
Steve found all parts I'm going to need. he's just waiting until I reach the transmission to see if I won't need more parts and order all of them at once.
By the way, the lid hande and the "Frigidaire made only by GM" plate weren't found yet. Somebody....? Please!
Here goes a video, this is NOT my machine but exactly how I want my machine to be..
It's owner is also very handsome... Maybe someday I'll be handsome like him LOL. Who's he?
Update Dec 27 - 7:40 PM
I just decided to hold my restoration until Brian (BrianL) reach the same point, so we can both be helped at the same time.
Please check his thread "Look what I found".
I just decided to hold my restoration until Brian (BrianL) reach the same point, so we can both be helped at the same time.
Please check his thread "Look what I found".
brianl
Well-known member
I am wondering if Mark Michaels source in Pittsburgh is that person who posted on Craigslist Pittsburgh (Post 401522 by turqoisedude) I tried e-mailing but the posting is too old and I get a return e-mail.
Hey rollermatic, does Mark have any contact info, I couldn't find it on the site. Maybe I am missing something. I wuuld definitely like to purchase a couple parts and backup parts in case. I want to see this washer run a lifetime
Hey rollermatic, does Mark have any contact info, I couldn't find it on the site. Maybe I am missing something. I wuuld definitely like to purchase a couple parts and backup parts in case. I want to see this washer run a lifetime
brianl
Well-known member
Thank you so much Tom for waiting on me to catch up. I am looking to start pulling apart early this week to see what needs to be done to the machine. If it is easier, should I just start posting here about mine or continue certain information on my thread? Don't want to hijack the thread
Brian, please feel free to choose the thread to post.
I have a suggestion, just to help keeping both threads organized and make things easier for both of us and the lovely guys that are helping us.
When you start your restoration, post the opdates in your thread (but don't forget to follow this one too)
and when you reach me, you can just start posting on this thread or I can go to your thread so it will be easier for our helpers to help us.
I'm going to wait for you but don't take too much time as I took because I can't waste too much time as I have a long path to run to send the money and the payment order reach the U.S.
I don't know, but maybe, if we place our orders together (bigger order) we could ask for a discount or something like that. According to Steve, considering only the parts I already know I'm going to need, it will cost me aproximately 200 dollars not including the shipping to Brazil.
Honestly I'm almost sure you're going to need only the unexpensive bearings and maybe (or maybe not) the water and oil bellows.
If your timer motor is dead... welcome to the club again. Ingraham motors are NLA. My boss still trying to fix mine.
I have a suggestion, just to help keeping both threads organized and make things easier for both of us and the lovely guys that are helping us.
When you start your restoration, post the opdates in your thread (but don't forget to follow this one too)
and when you reach me, you can just start posting on this thread or I can go to your thread so it will be easier for our helpers to help us.
I'm going to wait for you but don't take too much time as I took because I can't waste too much time as I have a long path to run to send the money and the payment order reach the U.S.
I don't know, but maybe, if we place our orders together (bigger order) we could ask for a discount or something like that. According to Steve, considering only the parts I already know I'm going to need, it will cost me aproximately 200 dollars not including the shipping to Brazil.
Honestly I'm almost sure you're going to need only the unexpensive bearings and maybe (or maybe not) the water and oil bellows.
If your timer motor is dead... welcome to the club again. Ingraham motors are NLA. My boss still trying to fix mine.
rollermatic
Well-known member
i talked to mark
2 days ago about a clock motor for my flair stove and he says this guy still has some stuff and can "possibly get more" wherever that comes from. one thing about mark, he will not give out any info on who this guy is, obviously he doesn't want us dealing with the guy directly. i can understand that i guess, mark is trying to "sell" here and make some profit.
but it is frustrating for me as i would love to talk to guy directly about some possible parts. oh well!
i e mailed on that post from the guy in pittsburgh also assuming it was mark's contact but as yet have had no response. my e mail did not come back however.
mark did tell me he has more bellows which is good for all us frigidaire collectors. i probably bought the last of his water seals as i bought 5 of them. i know he has timers for rollermatic models and has a motor for a 1-18.
i myself am now looking for a small solonoid that attaches to the timer of my 65 custom imperial. it shifts the timer motor into a higher speed by using this solonoid and linkage, thus making parts of the cycle shorter. mine promply burnt up the other day when i was testing the cycles. oh well, i'm just glad the timer itself was not damaged in the fall from the truck last summer. but if anyone knows of a place to buy small solonoids please do tell!
thanks
2 days ago about a clock motor for my flair stove and he says this guy still has some stuff and can "possibly get more" wherever that comes from. one thing about mark, he will not give out any info on who this guy is, obviously he doesn't want us dealing with the guy directly. i can understand that i guess, mark is trying to "sell" here and make some profit.
but it is frustrating for me as i would love to talk to guy directly about some possible parts. oh well!
i e mailed on that post from the guy in pittsburgh also assuming it was mark's contact but as yet have had no response. my e mail did not come back however.
mark did tell me he has more bellows which is good for all us frigidaire collectors. i probably bought the last of his water seals as i bought 5 of them. i know he has timers for rollermatic models and has a motor for a 1-18.
i myself am now looking for a small solonoid that attaches to the timer of my 65 custom imperial. it shifts the timer motor into a higher speed by using this solonoid and linkage, thus making parts of the cycle shorter. mine promply burnt up the other day when i was testing the cycles. oh well, i'm just glad the timer itself was not damaged in the fall from the truck last summer. but if anyone knows of a place to buy small solonoids please do tell!
thanks
brianl
Well-known member
Yes definitely, I would like to get my hands on some water and oil bellows, bearings, seals, etc. that are hard to find. I also noticed the terms inner and outer bellows. Does this refer to the bellows respectively? If Mark has any bellows, seals, or bearings, I would want to buy.
You must of e-mailed the guy before the 26th in ? I was on the 27th and that's probably why my e-mail bounced.
Thomas, I will definitely moved as quickly as possible to catch up. Could you post a few of the steps to how you got the cabinet apart and the agitator off or was that in the service manual. I did not have an opportunity to read yet.
You must of e-mailed the guy before the 26th in ? I was on the 27th and that's probably why my e-mail bounced.
Thomas, I will definitely moved as quickly as possible to catch up. Could you post a few of the steps to how you got the cabinet apart and the agitator off or was that in the service manual. I did not have an opportunity to read yet.
Brian, taking the cabinet afart is much easier that you can believe.
You just have to remove the two big screws you can see on both sides of the lid and two long screws on each back corner of the machine, right below the backsplash (one of the screws is next to the out of balance switch)
don't forget to release the fill hose that comes from the solenoids and also try to release some of the wiring (you don't need to disconnect anything, just give it some space to move)
taking the pulsator and the tub out is easy and there are some pictures in my thread.
Your pulsator is a little bit different than mine, but I think the mounting is the same. (Could an expert please confirm this information? Thanks!)
- remove the pulsator cap
- remove the screw that looks like a hook (this can be easily done without any tool)
- use a proper wrench or plier to remove the pulsator nut. some extra force might be necessary but be careful because that nut is reasonably fragile.
- remove the pulsator. It micht be stuck, so you have to rock it and pull at the same time.
- to release the water and oild bellows, you can see the step by step instructions and also some pictures on my thread.
You just have to remove the two big screws you can see on both sides of the lid and two long screws on each back corner of the machine, right below the backsplash (one of the screws is next to the out of balance switch)
don't forget to release the fill hose that comes from the solenoids and also try to release some of the wiring (you don't need to disconnect anything, just give it some space to move)
taking the pulsator and the tub out is easy and there are some pictures in my thread.
Your pulsator is a little bit different than mine, but I think the mounting is the same. (Could an expert please confirm this information? Thanks!)
- remove the pulsator cap
- remove the screw that looks like a hook (this can be easily done without any tool)
- use a proper wrench or plier to remove the pulsator nut. some extra force might be necessary but be careful because that nut is reasonably fragile.
- remove the pulsator. It micht be stuck, so you have to rock it and pull at the same time.
- to release the water and oild bellows, you can see the step by step instructions and also some pictures on my thread.
Peter, what are you going to do with 5 water seals?
you know... there's a very nice guy in Brazil that needs only one of those. Isn't that a good ocasion to be generous? LOL
you know... there's a very nice guy in Brazil that needs only one of those. Isn't that a good ocasion to be generous? LOL
By the way Peter... please check your yahoo messenger. I tried to add you to my list.
brianl
Well-known member
me over here, I may need one of those lol. Hey if I can get my hands on a small bunch, that would be great. Gotta talk to that Mark guy.
Brian, is your email address valid?
I tried to add you and send relevant information, but it didn't work.
I tried to add you and send relevant information, but it didn't work.
mickeyd
Well-known member
Beware the bellows, fellows
Thanks Tom
You and Brian should know that the oil bellows is a fine little guy who pops off & on real nice, real easy, but the Water Girl is a real challenge. After dozens of failed attempts, I finally slicked up the lip on the hub in the tub with liquid dish soap, soaked the bellows in hot water, slicked her bottom coil with soap, and slipped the O ring up in the coils. It's easier to slide it down than to pull it up. Finally--ON-- but not after biting the hair off my wrist. OOWWWWWW ;'D
If I had known about using the C wrench, this baby would have been fixed sooner. Be glad to know about it. That way you won't have to wait to find or borrow the very rare bellows wrenches.
If you haven't learned patience yet, Unimatic repair is the best teacher.
Thanks Tom
You and Brian should know that the oil bellows is a fine little guy who pops off & on real nice, real easy, but the Water Girl is a real challenge. After dozens of failed attempts, I finally slicked up the lip on the hub in the tub with liquid dish soap, soaked the bellows in hot water, slicked her bottom coil with soap, and slipped the O ring up in the coils. It's easier to slide it down than to pull it up. Finally--ON-- but not after biting the hair off my wrist. OOWWWWWW ;'D
If I had known about using the C wrench, this baby would have been fixed sooner. Be glad to know about it. That way you won't have to wait to find or borrow the very rare bellows wrenches.
If you haven't learned patience yet, Unimatic repair is the best teacher.
brianl
Well-known member
E-Mail is legit
Where are you trying to add me?
Where are you trying to add me?
Windows Live Messenger.
Michael
Please don't remind me that yet LOL
I know it's going to be one of the worst parts of the restoration. That was the first thing i thought when i removed the remaining part of the old bellows.
there's something that works much better than liquid soap.... KY jelly!
Liquid soap, oil (soap has oil) and strong chemical lubricants may damage the rubber after some years. KY jelly is water based so, if it's safe to use with a condom which is also made of latex, it will be much more gentle with a thick latex rubber.
Please don't remind me that yet LOL
I know it's going to be one of the worst parts of the restoration. That was the first thing i thought when i removed the remaining part of the old bellows.
there's something that works much better than liquid soap.... KY jelly!
Liquid soap, oil (soap has oil) and strong chemical lubricants may damage the rubber after some years. KY jelly is water based so, if it's safe to use with a condom which is also made of latex, it will be much more gentle with a thick latex rubber.
brianl
Well-known member
I will check my messenger later, not sure why it is not adding.
