SERVIS quartz 6035 drum bearings and parts

[bureaucrazy]

It's off!

Spoke to soon. Just needed to slide the tip of a small screwdriver towards the prong bend and it came apart without breaking!

Now I see 4 rusted bolts inside the bottom holding the upper body onto the chassis. If I remove them it should come off...

 

[bureaucrazy]

Progress...

For anyone else who needs to do this, you should lay the machine on it's back and use a screwdriver to remove the 4 crosshead bolts holding the case to the chasis. Then remove the nut and bolt under neath the front. Then get someone to help stand it up again. If on your own, you should lay it on it's front and undo to nut and bolt and the two forward most crosshead bolts. Then stand it up and undo the rear bolts with a short handle spanner or special angle screwdriver that can reach in and under.

Once standing up, you can carefully remove all stuff attached inside the body and then lift it off.

Ok, so I've removed the body without having to disconnect any gubbins.
The front of the drum is now accessible.

However, there is a lot of gubbins dangling around the top and back such as the soap box and the top back panel, etc.

I don't know how awkward changing the bearings will br or how much force is required to remove them, etc. Will I need to lay the machine on it's front or back during the operation?

Before I go further, is it better to remove the loose gubbins and then try to remember how it goes back together or do you think it would be OK to just tie it and tape it in place so it stays put while I work on the drum?

 

[sesteve]

Well done so far. Yes those clamp bands are a bit of a pain especially to put back on - I think the other holes are used to let you squeeze it together to get the clip in place. A fellow member had a nasty accident with a screwdriver trying to put one of these back on though!

I would just try and secure the loose gubbins as best as you can - they won’t go far but you don’t want to loosen any seals with the hoses with the dispenser moving etc. The machine is best left upright for doing the bearings. Again be careful taking the clips off as they have a tendency to ping off in all directions. The hardest part will probably be loosening the bolt holding the pulley on depending on how tight it’s been done up. Use a piece of wood that will fit snugly in the recesses in the outer tub to jam the pulley to stop it turning while you undo the bolt and also use it to protect the end of the drum shaft as you will have to give it a couple of whacks to free the drum so you can pull it out. If it has the same bearings mine had they should just pull out by hand. If it’s the other sealed type then you will need to knock them out.

Hope that’s not teaching you to suck eggs! You are well on your way so shouldn’t take too long from here.

 

[bureaucrazy]

Not teaching me to suck eggs at all. I have never tried anything this mechanical before.

The front of the drum came off easily. The pulley nut was easy and the pulley came off by turning the drum from inside. Then the inner drum came out.

The seal inside the drum looks terrible and hardly recognisable in the new one. I hope the new one (PART 4) is correct as it looks so different.

There is rusty mush inside the hole so I think the front bearing is long gone.

The rear bearing has a felt washer (maybe aspestos?) Should I reuse this or where can I get one from as it was not in the kit?

At the bottom of the spider spindle there looks like a seal with gaps in it. I think PART 3 is to replace this.

I am going slowly and carefully. Any advice is welcome. Thank you for everything so far.

 

[bureaucrazy]

Inside the drum, the old face seal (3343 on the schematic) seems like it's cemented in and will not come out. Please see pictures. Somehow I must remove this without damage to the hole it sits in so that the new seal will have no leaks.

In my pictures the red arrow shows the cememnt like stuff. Or is it limescale?
Bits of the old seal like the carbon ring have crumbled and fallen out.

I must also be careful not to damage the felt washer if the inner bearing has one (see last pic for felt washer of rear bearing (removed)).

 

[sesteve]

Great progress and yes they have definitely failed!

So you are right your new part 3 is the counterface and looking at your 5th picture the original one has split. You need to lever this out and clean up the housing and the new one should push in - usually would use some debor glue under the rubber seal. You might want to clean up the bush at the base of the shaft first with fine wet and dry paper as it looks rough and could damage the new seal.

Part 4 is correct. The original spring has probably rusted and collapsed. This will be glued in so just pull it out and again clean up the recess and glue the new one in. I think what you can see there is limescale as the glue will be on the rear of the seal. For both these parts make sure you keep the carbon seal clean. When the drum goes back in it will compress the spring and that will provide the seal. Its a good idea to do a couple of spin cycles without water when it’s all back together to help the two faces to bed in.

I don’t remember a felt washer on mine so maybe it stayed on the bearing - it’s not shown in the drawing Mike posted so I would reuse these. I doubt very much that they are asbestos.

Keep up the good work

 

[bureaucrazy]

Element scale

Thanks for the tips. I will do as you recommend.

Looking at the state of the drum, both the outside of the steel inner drum and the inside of the plastic tub are caked in limescale. I bought some HG limescale remover to try and clean it off, at least in places that need cleaning up to stick rubber parts to.

Is the steel drum fully stainless steel or is it chrome plated? I don't want to dissolve the plating by mistake.

The element is very thick in scale. I could try to clean it off in situ but it may be better to replace it with a new one so as to avoid having to open her up again in the future.

Do any of you know the part numbers for the heating element and the thermostat?

The thermostat is labelled Crossland components 38381090.

I notice the element has 2 thin straight wires that are attached to the ends and poke out the back into two square things. What are these? Maybe some kind of fail safe that cuts it off if it overheats?

I have seen HTR51 on spares sites which looks similar but only has one wire and one square thing.

I have no idea how long the thermostats last but I imagine it has to be an exact replacement otherwise the temperature won't be right. I am not sure if it has a thermistor inside or something else. If so, might it be possible to cut it open and solder in a new thermistor should it go wrong in future?

If I can find the parts now, I might as well change them to get the job done right so any help with part numbers would be ace.

 

[sesteve]

The drum is stainless steel and the spider is an alloy so be careful with that as it might not be as robust.

I'm not sure about the spare part numbers but you can change both the heater and thermostat from the rear so probably best to leave as is until they stop working and source spares just in case. The thermostat is a thermistor type but they are generally reliable so if you clean the scale off then it should be OK.

The thinner wire is the overheat protection. The design of the heaters has changed a few times -the first picture is my 6035 with just one connection for the protector (you can also see the staining from that bearing seal too) and the others from the 6030 with a thermal fuse. Generally most heaters are suitable as long as the wattage and length is correct so its possible to use alternatives as the protection is in line with the heater.

 

[bureaucrazy]

Removing bearing sleeves?

Just an update. It is taking a very long time to remove the limescale from the heater but it's about 75% clean.

I removed the bearing seal and cleaned up what is left. The inner and outer bearing sleeves are stuck inside. Are these glued in? As you can see in the photos the 1st is the outer sleeve and it is still fairly smooth, the 2nd pic is the inner bearing sleeve and is quite rough. The third picture shows there is a lip at the back of the bearing sleeve. I have tried poking a flat screwdriver against the lip and hitting it with a small hammer but the thing won't budge.

Also, the whole drum wobbles on the shock supports absorbing some of the force.

Presumably I need to get both bearing sleeves out as there may be wear or slight differnces that don't mate up properly with the new bearings?

How can I get these out without damage?

Cheers.

 

[chestermikeuk]

Bearings

Hello , have just checked and we've found some other info, there was a transition on these models from metal tubs to plastic , and also newer drums from the spin care smoothe type , some plastic tubs had sleeves fused in so think they stay in , have put a call out to an engineer to check ..

Here's the other schematics ..hope this helps .

 

[bureaucrazy]

More details.

Hi, thanks for going to so much effort to find this out for me.
Looking at the back of the heater element, it has markings: IRCA 09 90 230V 2500W.

Could the 09 90 indicate the date of manufacture of the element? Late 1990 or early 1991 would make this a very late model. It has a normal perforated inner drum (cleaned up nicely!) (no chevrons or spincare).

Comparing the new schematics with the old one, the new one shows a felt washer.

My machine has a felt washer see reply 23 photo 4.
My machine does not have a collapsible washer like the one in the centre of the photo in reply 5.

So, you may be right that the bearing sleeves cannot be removed. I did not hit them that hard, but it was using a small lump hammer and should have been enough force to dislogde it a little if it was just tightly pressed in.

The inner sleeve is very rough but the outer one is quite smooth and the outer original bearings looked OK condition.

Looking at the old and new bearings, it could be just my eyesight but the original ones look very slightly more angled but it might be just wear and tear? (they have all the same numbers/markings old and new)

Look at this photo below, there is a ring of darker dull grey material (might be metal)around the centre hole where the bearing sleeve is fixed. The inner sleeve is in poor condition with a very rough surface. There was a lot of limescale inside the hole so I used limescale remover and it has dulled the sheen on the outer sleeve but at least that one is still smooth.

Good job I checked with you guys before demolishing it trying to remove the sleeves!

 

[sesteve]

I'm not sure if that is a date code on the heater or not. There was a date sticker on the plastic tub of mine and I think on the underside of the lid and possibly the module so you could double check to see if there are any other date references that might match up.

As Mike says, I think the sleeves are welded to the tub. You could probably sand them with fine wet n dry paper to smooth them out. I'm guessing the machine has been running on one bearing looking at what was left of the front one and that is probably why the sleeve is quite rough. Did you have the spacer tube (photo 3 in reply#10) as I didn't see it in your pictures?

Hopefully you are nearly there for reassembly

 

[bureaucrazy]

Need new door seal

Unfortunately, life interrupted my restoration project.

I have come back now to finish it off but cannot find anywhere to buy a new door seal gasket (DBT50).

When I started this 3 years ago there were loads of parts on ebay. Now there is nothing!

If any of you can help or suggest a place I might find one, I can finally finsih this off and get her up and running again.

Inspecting the original seal, there are no tears and it is still fairly flexible.

But, it is covered in scale and mould. The surface is a little crackled / pitted in areas as you would expect from perished rubber.

It leaks a little between the seal and the perspex window.

If I can get the scale and mold off with a limescale remover or soak in vinegar, it might improve but I am afraid acid might damage it further.

There is also this rubber restorer product:

https://mgchemicals.com/products/electronics-maintenance/specialized-cleaners/rubber-renue/

Is it safe to try this?

Thanks