Should I fix a 1-18 (again), are parts available?

[jetcone]

Goprg

You don't have an S or T model which is good! So don't worry about the driver on the shaft, from the amount of use you describe that darkening is the urethane wearing off so its good you have a new roller coming. I would try to carefully clean the metal drive roller before installing the new urethane roller.
IMPORTANT when installing the new urethane roller, the long screw that holds it to the transmission casing must not be bolted down tightly as the roller needs to be able to flop back and forth in its little metal cradle that it sits in.
SO to prevent the bolt from falling back out after a few cycles you need to apply LOCK TITE to the screw threads before you install the roller back into the mechanism and tighten just enough that you don't see the little metal cradle bend or flex into the roller then STOP and let the LOCK TITE harden overnite before putting the machine back in use.

The bearing you are looking at does not need lubricating under the seal.

TO install the seal correctly, apply liqiud soap around its perimeter before pushing down into the cup flange where the old one came out.

My comment about the motor shaft was wrong for this model that comment applied to the 1964-69 mechanism where the motor actually drove the mechanism directly so forget it.

jet

 

[goprog]

jet

Thanks. Unless instructions come with the roller, I would not
have known about the LOCK TITE. Everything else you say is
encouraging.

Dale

 

[roto204]

Wowies

Good luck, Dale! Keep us posted.

And thank you for the S-T history, Jon! Geez! What an adventure!

 

[goprog]

Tub seal and both bellows are both back in. Wanted to get
it together so I could do a wash tonight, but the O-ring has
disappeared so not taking chances until I can get out tomorrow
to get one.

Question: I remember reading SOMETHING somewhere here about
a "paint"? As long as the inner tub was out, I was cleaning
the lime buildup off the outer tub. Noticed a few spots about
the size of a pencil eraser that were black. So thinking maybe
I should somehow do a good cleaning of the entire outer tub and
then seal it somehow. What should be used and where can I get
it? (Will put it back together once I get the O-ring tomorrow
so I can use it for now, but thinking ahead for what should
be done, maybe this winter, to keep it in shape.) Remember it
had something like a three-letter acronym/name with trailing
numbers. NOS-68 (just an example of what I think I remember
for what I thought was a paint, etc.)

Since I have to wait to get the O-ring, that will give me time
tonight to clean up the - dang, forget what it's called - the
upper ring that clamps onto the outer tub. So not a bad thing
to have lost the O-ring.

And, while I'm writing, anyone have a tech-manual for the 1-18
machines? Assuming it is not a problem to copy (I'm thinking
no longer published material?), I am thinking about scanning it
and providing the information online here for those who need
the info. My preference would be for a copy that is in bad
shape. One that could be "dismantled" so the scanned copy
would be pristine. (You know, if you try to scan a book or
something you get that curved/black spot along the spine.)
Just trying to return something to the group for the help
provided.

Thanks.

 

[panthera]

POR-15

I am really impressed by your work! The stuff is called POR-15. I am not personally familiar with it, but all the ladies Stateside swear by it.
If you have trouble getting it locally, try their website:
www.por15.com

I'd love to see some pics before you put her back together!
I think scans of hard to get manuals are an excellent idea and would be more than willing to pay something for downloading one -resp., I would be more than happy to help scan and *pdf.

 

[goprog]

Finally got it back together and did some wash last night.
Not a sign of a leak. Haven't tried a heavy load yet to see
if the spin is better. (New spin roller hasn't arrived yet.)

Haven't tried pictures before so going to try including 4.
Sorry, had it mostly together before pictures were suggested.
But spent 4 hours or more removing scale from the tub ring and
spray ring tube. (That was the reason it didn't get together
when I had initially hoped - had to go buy some CLR.)

Not sure how to include these pictures so I'll label the
descriptions (with 1, 2, 3, 4) and try inserting the picture
after each line so it will work that way or you'll see 4
line descriptions and then 4 pictures? Reduced the size of
the files to be between 10K and 20K so they should load
quickly?

Okay, that isn't working. Appears only one picture can be
posted at a time so will make four more posts with the
descriptions and pictures.

 

[goprog]

Tub seal before removal - can't really see much. The
vents for the bellows described in a previous post are
not visible, but are around the edge between the seal
and the tub on the right side.

 

[goprog]

Showing rusty coating (not real rust) on the outer
part of the inner tub. The top of the inner tub
was all that color - took some work with CLR to
clean that much - will take it out and redo the
rest of the inner tub and work on the outer tub
this winter - maybe using the POR-15 (not cheap
stuff I see.) Stuff on bottom of tub is CLR/rust
that was rinsed out once it was put back together.

 

[goprog]

Tub ring - this is what I spent 4 hours cleaning. Thought
I had just cleaned it a few years ago, but it was bad - so
either I didn't clean it that well, it was a lot longer than
a few years ago, or it scaled up pretty fast. Should have
taken a picture before starting work on it.

 

[goprog]

Striking wrench. This is what I bought 10 years ago
(whenever I first replaced the bellows). Didn't really
need to remove the tub nut that time since I didn't
replace the tub seal but needed it this time. Pretty
nifty tool. This one is 1 1/2" but only 9" long. No
room to get a large wrench in the tub to work on it
and the ability to smack it with a hammer makes it
work like an impact wrench. Came in a set of 6 from
1 3/8" to 2". Socket portion is 3/4" thick.

 

[pdub]

great pics

Do you have more? I really admire your perseverance.

Here is a before pic of a dirty tub ring I cleaned a few years ago. I can imagine what yours looked like.

 

[pdub]

And this is what the top looked like. Yuck, but it all came clean.

 

[goprog]

Sorry, no more pics. Should have taken more and probably
would have if the digital camera wasn't so old. Have to
start up a Windows 98 machine to download them from the
camera and then have to either put them on floppy or
connect up ethernet cable and play some FTP games to get
them to a real computer so I can post them. Then don't
use it that often because newer systems don't deal with
it and then never sure what shape the batteries are going
to be in.

Nope, mine didn't look as bad as yours. Probably a question
of what your crud was. I had rust stains underneath (well
water), but they came off easily. The top had lime scale
buildup that was the real pain and there was some on the
hose so I took that off too to clean it. I see you have
your full wiring diagram on the front. Half mine came off
some years ago, but I took a digital photograph of both
halves so I can reference when I need to (if I can find it,
if the hard drive hasn't died...)

Like your agitator cap - looks like it is in good shape.
Hmmm, what does the right-hand plug I see in the upper
right do? I have a plastic fitting there, but there is
nothing attached to it (top or bottom). I just have the
left plugin/wires.

 

[jetcone]

The right hand plug is the

lid switch connector.

The left hand is the standard wiring harness connector for the top to cabinet connections.

Gogprog where did you get those nice striking wrenches?

 

[goprog]

They must have changed the setup for the lid switch at some
time. My wiring for the lid switch is all above the top
inside the control panel. There is just an arm that goes
back from the lid contact point underneath the lid back
up into the control panel.

(I saw the wires on pdub's machine running under the lid
but wanted to verify that's what they were.)

They came from Menards. Don't remember seeing them there
for a long time but I haven't actually looked and I've been
boycotting them for nearly a year now.

 

[48bencix]

Did you say?

I think you said you were getting some parts from Repair Clinic. Where are you getting the rollers? I have a 1-18 that most likely needs the tub seal that you did. Thanks for the great pictures and reporting on your progress.

Dave's has manuals for sale.

Martin

 

[goprog]

Didn't get anything from Repair Clinic. Ended up getting
the tub seal and an oil bellows from Appliance Factory.

I supposedly ordered a spin roller from Cashwells but
it hasn't arrived yet. Their online site said they had 2
in stock. Will have to check my credit card statement
to make sure the order went through. Will have to wash
a heavy load to see if I still have a problem with spin.
Maybe the problem was just the leak getting it wet
somehow. If the order didn't go through, then maybe I'll
just let it be if spin is working again for heavy loads.

Didn't find an agitate roller anywhere but then didn't
look excessively hard because I didn't need that. Hard
part about Repair Clinic is you have to browse through
a lot of parts to find what you need since they don't
recognize the model for the 1-18 machines. If you have
an actual part number, it works better.

I've seen the manuals available at Dave's. They are already
PDF versions (as I remember). It would not be "fair" to
buy one and then post it here (at least in my mind.) But
I don't have a problem with doing that from an original
manual since it is so old and no longer available from
Frigidaire. At the moment I don't really need one. I've
always generally just figured things out, but with the
internet available it makes it eaaier to do things right
the first time. Very important when dealing with things
full of NLA parts.

Repair Clinic Tub Seal: $45.64
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=643032($38.95 at Appliance Factory)

Repair Clinic Spin Roller: (Frigidaire #01133133) $45.80.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=338373($33.56 at Cashwells)

Repair Clinic Agitate Roller: (NLA) (Frigidaire #5300634723)
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=610809
If you need multiple parts and can get them from one place
you can save on shipping. The extra cost of the parts at
Repair Clinic negated that advantage. Had to pay double
shipping at Appliance Factory, apparently because they shipped
the tub seal and oil bellows from two different places. Could
have hoped for something better than that, but the price
savings made up for it.

 

[48bencix]

Thanks!

Thanks for the information. By the way, where did you find the oil bellows? I see Dave has the water bellows. He also has the lint filter, but so does Repair Clinic. I need to go by my Appliance Parts locally and see what they may have.

Martin

 

[goprog]

The oil bellows was from Appliance Factory, but they said
it was the last one they had. When I originally replaced
the water and oil bellows 5-10 years ago or so, I got them
from Repair Clinic but they don't have them any more.

Official part # is 5305433572
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=639790
Entering what I think is the part number for the water
bellows (5305433576), Repair Clinic seems to indicate
they might be able to get it. Doesn't say NLA, just
not in stock and "SP" which means special order?

http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=639791

 

[48bencix]

Thanks,

Thanks again for the information.

Now I need to START that project!

Martin