Should I try to revive my poor Maytag Atlantis?

[murando531]

I bulk uploaded all the clips and just piled them into a YouTube playlist link. I just didn't have time to do fancy splicing and editing haha. They should autoplay in order when the play button is clicked.

The one thing I didn't snap a picture of was the inside of the softener cap. I kid you not there had to be at least an inch thick caking of greenish blue fabric softener gunk in the thing. I guess the "Fill with water to max line" writing that is stamped on the top wasn't clear enough. >_>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[ea56]

Wow Andrew, you really worked hard on the clean up of this machine, and other than the oil leak it seems to be in very good cond. I was wrong in my original advice to donate it to charity. You obviously have a very strong attachment to this Maytag, and after all your hard work you can't do anything else but keep it, use it and love it. I'm sure someone on AW.org can give you some suggestions on getting the oil leak repaired. I bet if you look up the parts list for the model number you can find replacement rubber covers for the feet. Your tenacity is impressive!!! Now whatever you do, don't let your MIL near it again!
Eddie

 

[murando531]

Thanks ea56.

So I've found two used transmissions on eBay that fit the model number listed on all the parts service websites, 35-6615. The model number of the washer is MAV6300AWW.

I'm thinking the one listed "Amana" is the newer style because of the crimped top plate. The second link for the "Performa" is the older style mine has, with the blue goop-sealed top. Otherwise they look the same. There looks to be a little rust on the lower end of the Amana version but that may be harmless (and could be just that particular pictured unit, as evidently this seller has numerous of the same trans), but the Performa is only listed $50 bucks, and they're including the spin hub and gasket and even the frame if I needed it. I suppose I'd just use the best condition from all the parts I'd have at my use. Should I chance it?

Near as I can tell, everything else seems in fine condition, i.e. the brake assembly and bearings and such. At least with the transmission fixed it won't be seeping oil onto the floor and will be useable. If the other components need replacement soon, it'll be more affordable and less trouble, so I'll wait about any of that for now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maytag-Aman...655830?hash=item568bcd01d6:g:2u0AAOSwzgRWuogQ

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maytag-Perf...f461964&pid=100623&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=371712655830

And here is the link for the reference part number by looking up the exact model numbers:

Whirlpool 35-6615 Ht Trans S (AP4373431) - AppliancePartsPros.com

HT TRANS S 35-6615 / AP4373431 made by Whirlpool

www.appliancepartspros.com

 

[runematic]

Your pre-cleanup  inner tub pictures and agitator build-up pictures are pretty much normal on the vast majority of Atlantis washers we get in. 

 

[norgechef]

If you want a reliable top loader (more reliable than anything on the market today), that still fills the full way up and cleans the clothes, and your up for the repair then go for it. The white shavings are from the snubber ring. This is a $5 part that can be replaced while servicing the transmission and definitely worth it if you want to avoid annoying spin cycle issues in the future. The oil leak is definitely coming from the transmission. Oil seal failures are relatively common with these washers. The ones that are used heavily anyways.

The oil seal itself can be replaced, but at this point I would advise you to replace the whole transmission and bearing/seal kit just to avoid doing the repair again in another year or two. Everything will have to be very thoroughly de-greased. I am quite surprised that the brake is still holding the tub in place. Usually when these machines leak oil, the first place it goes is into the brake.

I have done the oil seal repair, and complete transmission replacement on these machines. So if you do embark on this repair, feel free to ask me any questions along the way. I'm kind of a guru when it comes to these. Always loved them as well. One of my favorite top load washer designs. And surprisingly easy to work on.

One thing I must point out since the basket hub looks very corroded is that you should try to disassemble the machine first before ordering parts. The hub can be a real pain to get off. I usually use a pipe wrench and a hammer. I have seen some that are too corroded and will hardly budge, even using excessive force.

Its also a good idea to buy a new unused transmission if it is in your price budget. Unfortunately these transmissions are not the most reliable, and depending on how they were used in the past, they may have excessive wear already. With a lot of these machines you hear clunking going on in the transmission during the spin-drain, or a ratcheting noise during the wash cycle. The spin-clunking started in my orignal norgetag machine. Eventually something inside the transmission went kaput and it started agitating during the spin cycle, and the machine was not that old at the time. It had just been used (and abused) a lot in its lifetime.

 

[vacerator]

I didn't know

the Atlantis didn't have the genuine Maytag orbital gear case. My dad said they never repaired the noregetag transmission, only replaced them. Cheaper to do.
So if ever one gets condemded, it's slanted top design matches a condemned housing estate in Naples Italy. Send it to Vele Scampia, it'll fit right in.

 

[murando531]

I finally bit the bullet and ordered the one for $50. If my intent was to use it as a daily driver, I'd pay for the brand new one, but my goal is to get it back to normal working order just to the point that one day when I have an extra utility room or something, it can be connected and used every couple of weeks for a load now and then just to be able to use it like all those years ago.

I still have the sneaking feeling that if I just replaced the seal and could refill the oil, the transmission as a whole is fine. It still agitates strongly with no grinding or clunking, and hops right into the spin as though nothing is wrong. But maybe I can keep the old transmission and attempt a rebuild project in a few years. I'm going to also order the snubber ring to get that done at the same time, since that's the only other thing that seems questionable.

As enraging as the whole thing is, I'd be less angry if the machine had just been let to get so nasty. It's the dents and gouges and the consistent overloading they put on it, plus their negligence when they noticed oil, that infuriates me. That it still works properly is a blessing on its own, and shows how well built it really is. I'd say I wish I could make them pay for the transmission since I let them abuse a good washer for over three years for free, but I'd rather just wash my hands of them entirely. I'll sit at the Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners but they better not dare ask me to so much as check their rinse aid dispenser for them (not that they have ever checked on in their life anyway).

 

[ea56]

Andrew

one thing I've learned over the the course of my 65 yrs on earth is that no one will ever take care of my property as well as I do. People will promise you anything they think you want to hear if they want something, whether its a loan of property or money. So, what I have done for many years now is if I have some item that I'm not using, and may never use again if someone needs it I GIVE it to them with the caveat that I may not ever be able to do this again. Likewise with a loan of money. I make it clear its a gift,(as long as I can afford to give it) and please don't expect that I'll be able to do this in the future. Then there's no hard feelings, no friendships ruined, because 10 to 1, if you loan money or property with the expectation that it will be returned you'll be dissapointed. And if you ask for repayment or return, guess who gets to be the asshole, YOU. That's why I told you originally, no good deed goes unpunished.

By practicing this policy I can help others when I'm able, but I'm in control of the eventual outcome.

Now enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Eddie[this post was last edited: 9/1/2016-17:16]

 

[murando531]

The new transmission is here two days early! And surprisingly it also has the brake assembly and everything intact in what seems to be excellent condition.

So, the question is...how the **** do I get this basket hub off?? I've seen a video of someone using a pipe wrench, but can't find that particular video anymore. The rest of the videos are seen using the hub tool but I can't find it available anywhere to buy. The problem isn't so much getting it off to remove the old assembly, but to get it off the "new" one so the tub and gaskets will line up properly. Any thoughts?

 

[murando531]

Well, a few updates before bed.

Since the entire assembly came intact, I originally decided it would be a simpler task because there would be no need to remove the brake assembly and could instead set the entire thing down into the base, reconnect the springs, then align and lower the outer tub onto the assembly and be good to go. But, that's not how things worked out.

First, I couldn't get the basket hub block off to save my life, even with locking a pipe wrench and pinging it with a hammer. Then, since I'm not intending for this to be a super strict "by the books" repair because I'm not needing it to be a daily driver, I figured if I could at least turn the basket hub enough that it lines with the conveniently shaped grooves in the outer tub opening, I could lower the tub down into place and as long as the machine works fine, it doesn't matter if the hub is removed and replaced. Normally, up until this point, I could always grab the basket and turn it by hand and even with the brake engaged it would "slide" a bit. So having no luck turning just the hub and shaft on their own, I temporarily slid the basket down, bolted it hand tight, and tried to turn clockwise. Not a budge. Instead of the shaft turning as it should, the entire trans assembly moved so much that I had to readjust one of the springs at it had almost popped loose. It's like the brake and transmission are cemented in place.

So then I thought, maybe if I reassemble the thrust bearings and pulley, slip the belt on, and turn the motor on for spin just briefly enough to disengage the brake, I can then turn the hub more easily to line it up. Easy right? No. The basket hub and shaft won't spin at all. At all. Turning the pulley by hand is stiff and the brake won't budge. But it was a relief that I used a medicine syringe to put enough pressure in the water level tube for the machine to start agitating, and it agitates perfectly, and doesn't even have that "wahwahwah" sound the other one did while dry agitating. So I don't think this "new" transmission is to blame.

Just for kicks, I took the transmission pulley and thrust bearing assembly back off, and put it in the same order onto the old trans assembly sitting over against the wall, and viola! Turning counterclockwise by hand gracefully releases the brake and the transmission begins to turn, while clockwise starts to oscillate the shaft (because as I may have said before, the old transmission seems perfectly fine from an operational standpoint, but with slinging oil for 3-4+ years there's no telling what damage to the gear system was done).

So while I would adore any advice and anyone who has an explanation for this predicament, my theory so far is this:

-the original brake assembly from the old trans is in perfect shape, probably because everything soaked in the gearcase oil has been "preserved" in a sense.
-since I'm using the thrust bearing assembly from a different machine, it isn't "calibrated" to this new brake assembly, thus, it may have needed a second washer on the pulley for the cam to be able to push the brake free on its original machine that I just don't have here.
-while this assembly came completely intact, even with gaskets in great condition, the seller may have just kept everything together despite a problem with the brake because the frame acted as a shield for storing/transporting the transmission itself. I only paid for a good transmission, so maybe they figured anyone buying it would know how to either adjust the existing brake or would just trash it anyway because of already having a functional one.

So despite thinking I might not have to tear down the brake at all, tomorrow's project is to remove my original brake rotor and stator, clean them, use the new snubber ring I bought today because why not, and transplant it to the new transmission, since I know the thrust bearing assembly I have now is perfectly fine. I even bought the self-drilling 1-1/2 inch screws for removing the brake and spring today, so I should be all set. After that, hopefully getting the tub, basket, and agitator back together will be cake, and I'll be able to do a few trial runs before the night is over.