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Just in time for Holloween... Dr. Frankenstein's laundry

I just can't escape the feeling that the phrase "It's ALIVE!!!" will be used before all this is over... LOL!

RCD
 
Can't remember the brands-used to use two types of rubber restorer in maintenance of broadcast studio gear-one came in a small brown glass bottle.You use only a TINY amount of this stuff on a part like a pinch roller for a tape deck.I made the mistake of soaking one in this and it swelled up! the other rubber restorer was in a plain metal can.It was better than the bottle type-used the type from a can on tape deck pinch rollers and turntable idler wheel tires.Now with digital----who needs rubber restorer?
 
In general I don't see that much info online about these machines. Here is a video of my thoughts as to how the mechanism works.

 
Good luck getting that old beast restored.

I'm interested to see how your modifications will work with the older technology inside that machine.
 
Like the videos on how the machine works and the collection of 3Ph motors.Very interesting.I don't have any such motors at home-but sorrounded by them here at work.All over the building and in the transmitters.Lets see-20hp cooling water pumps for the older CEMCO transmitters.Allis Chalmers-and they are on "soft start" drives.230V 3 Ph.Each transmitter has a 5Hp 230V Westinghouse 3Ph motor for the main cabinet blower,and in the blower room-a 15Hp 3 Ph 230V blower.These have Westinghouse motors-now replaced by WEG motors.The GE transmitters have 15Hp 3Ph 230V main blower motors and 5Hp 3Ph for Aux blower.No large pumps in these since the cooling is "Vapor Phase' cooling.The European transmitters have their motors rated in kilowatts instead of HP.they run off 3Ph 380-400V.One of these motors on an outside cooling unit has two three phase windings for dual speeds.Runs the cooler blower.The idea was when the coolant temp got over a certain temp the blower motor goes to high speed-as it cools down then switches to low speed.Its a BBC brand motor.And various 3Ph motors in the building-for HVAC blowers,and pumps.Others are for the air compressors here.
 
Qualin:
For the mechanical side, the special belts, speed changer motor, and one of the idler pulleys will be taken out. The original motor and pump are being taken out, as well. The electrical side is more complex. Part of the circuit for the heater depends on the centrifugal switch of the original motor in order to operate. For that part of the machine, I will have to look at more closely as I will have to use something like SSR, or triac to handle the amount of current that the heaters will pull. Speeds will be programmed into the VFD, use low voltage signals for the terminal strip. The surprise feature of ModLRC3PH will require a dual timer that has relays, both NO and NC, and time cycling feature.

Dave:
The Edged Sapphire Blue Whirlpool is a very fun machine to use. It can be quite messy, and a little animated.

Rex:
My 3phase motor limit is ~7.5 hp. They get to be just too heavy to move down stairs. I have a 230VAC 3 phase source, but not a 460VAC or 575VAC source yet. WEG motors seem to be very good(to me). Multi-speed 3 phase motors are kinda special.

No guesses on what the other modifications are?

What is ModCDSRRW? Hint: What does it have to do with this dishwasher? What is special about the GE Combo? The GE combo needs lots of water. The busted Frigi dishwasher will provide the container.

What is ModCDCW? Hint: What does this fan have to do with it? Fan will be part of the water cooling system. What do condensing dryers really need? Condensing dryers need cold water.

There is one final modification: ModGECCL. What is this modification? Hint: TOL GE washers and dryers of this era have what on their consoles for productivity? The hint is in the picture below.

Picture owner member geextrarinse.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-11-33-43.jpg
 
THANK YOU!!!

I'm going to save that picture. A GE DispenseAll! This washer (with it's matching dryer) is what started it all for me. My Grandmother owned them when I was small and I remember being captivated by the washer. Finding this washer (and dryer) would be coming full circle for me...

RCD
 
Andrew:
Yeah I wish I had a machine like that one too. In fact any GE FF washer with the console work light like the one above would do. If anyone has one of these that they want to get rid of, I'd be willing to part with a few choice machines just for it. I borrowed this picture from a post a few years ago made by member geextrarinse. I believe he has one of those models. In general you don't see very many GE FF machines around now.

ModGECCL: What is this modification? Hint: TOL GE washers and dryers of this era have what on their consoles for productivity? They have a worklight.

ModLRC3PH: can't say what the acronym is just yet, as it will ruin the surprise.
ModCDSRRW: Modification Condensing Dryer recycle water
ModCDCW: Modification Convert Drain water to Cold Water
ModGECCL: Modification GE Combo Console Light
 
Comparing it in size to the original motor. The D71D frame is slightly smaller than the 56 Frame. Space is tight under the drum, so have to go with metric motor. The new motor has a c-face mount flange on it that has to be factored into the mounting.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-18-59-59.jpg
 
Motor needs to be formatted. The feet can be mounted in different places around the motor to change its mounting orientation.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-19-06-26.jpg
 
The motor in this mounting orientation does not leave enough clearance for the junction box. Even though the motor fits, I don't like the junction box directly under the seal clamp of the outer drum with such little clearance.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-19-10-45.jpg
 
I've changed the mount orientation of the motor so that the junction box is on the other side. I put a belt on the drum pulley to that I know where the motor will sit and it be in a good spot to where I can adjust the pulley to line up the belt.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-19-14-59.jpg
 
To determine where the mark the foot mount holes, with the where I want it to be, I measure the distance from the flange to the very end of the machine. Then I measure the distance from the side panel to the far edge of the motor flange. I then remove the motor, and lay the machine on its front. I put the motor on the opposite side of the bottom of the machine, position the motor according to my measurements. I then draw the outline of the motor feet. I then measure the dimensions of the mount holes and where they are on the motor feet. Then draw the mounting holes.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-19-25-43.jpg
 
Worked like a charm! The bottom of the flange hangs low, so need to elevate the motor in order so that it will mount properly, otherwise you may break the feet when tightening the motor down.

supremewhirlpol++11-12-2011-19-29-25.jpg
 
Coupler and pump

Just curious then.. I apologize for the dumb questions...

Your new motor is only a single shaft as opposed to the double shafted old motor. How are you going to mount and drive the pump since there isn't a shaft on the other side of the motor?

Are you also going to use the existing motor pulley?

Also curious.. you said the old motor is a 2 speed motor. How will you emulate that using a VFD motor? Is it just a simple matter of some input terminals on the controller to tell it which speed to use?
 

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