Speed Queen Dryer Lint (exhaust) problem. HELP!
- Thread starter danmantn
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Dan,
I think the only suitable thing would be to go ahead and set it up for side vent. As for it not lining up with the hole in the wall, use a short section of flex metal duct to accomodate the offset. See the link below.
This may not totally solve the lint problem (if it's caused by a design flaw), but should certainly help by reducing some of the back pressure caused by the existing convoluted run.
http://www.buildersbest.com/pdf/v530spec.pdf
I think the only suitable thing would be to go ahead and set it up for side vent. As for it not lining up with the hole in the wall, use a short section of flex metal duct to accomodate the offset. See the link below.
This may not totally solve the lint problem (if it's caused by a design flaw), but should certainly help by reducing some of the back pressure caused by the existing convoluted run.
http://www.buildersbest.com/pdf/v530spec.pdf
surgilator_68
Well-known member
There are actually 5 90's from the dryer to the wall. And a lot more that can't be seen. Use the side vent kit, it's very easy to install. Have the vent system in the wall cleaned by a professional.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
If you are going to do the left exhaust you don't need to remove the drum, but it is easier. And it's very simple either way you do it.
When I got the dryer
it vented out the back. I had the 90 degree elbow installed at home and do not recall the service tech taking out the entire dryer drum. Even if he had to, taking out the drum shouldn't be difficult or time-consuming for someone who knows what they are doing. When I had to replace the roller and blower, all the tech did was remove the front of the dryer and the venting assy that leads to the blower. The drum just lifts out.
Another suggestion, looking at your venting pic, why don't you shorten the flexible alu-tube by a foot and take that bend out?
it vented out the back. I had the 90 degree elbow installed at home and do not recall the service tech taking out the entire dryer drum. Even if he had to, taking out the drum shouldn't be difficult or time-consuming for someone who knows what they are doing. When I had to replace the roller and blower, all the tech did was remove the front of the dryer and the venting assy that leads to the blower. The drum just lifts out.
Another suggestion, looking at your venting pic, why don't you shorten the flexible alu-tube by a foot and take that bend out?
I would want to install the elbow myself...would you access from the front, back, or underneath? I've never really inspected the dry.
I could shorten the length, but it was very difficult to install in the closet. I left a bit longer to ease in fastening the Periscope to the back of the dryer.
If installing the elbow won't be too difficult, I may re-order it and give it a shot. IIRC, it was about $40, which sounds like a rip for such a simple metal duct. Has anyone installed one of these on a SQ, or would know how to do so?
I could shorten the length, but it was very difficult to install in the closet. I left a bit longer to ease in fastening the Periscope to the back of the dryer.
If installing the elbow won't be too difficult, I may re-order it and give it a shot. IIRC, it was about $40, which sounds like a rip for such a simple metal duct. Has anyone installed one of these on a SQ, or would know how to do so?
Originally when I was going to do this, SQ sent me the instructions. They were obviously written for someone familiar...little pics and written more for someone familiar with all the parts. I would imagine it to be difficult. The SQ tech said it's very tight to do without removing the drum, but if you do remove the drum (like I can/would do that) to be extra careful around getting the felt back in place exactly correct.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
You can buy the kit from SQ or go to the hardware store and buy a length of dryer exhaust pipe, some aluminum tape and 2 elbows.
Pull the dryer out, remove the 2 screws at the lower bottom of the front panel, remove panel. At the back of the dryer there is a clip that is screwed to the cabinet that holds the last section of duct in place. Remove that screw. Remove all the metal exhaust ductwork from the dryer. Knock out the left vent hole in the cabinet. You should be able to take it from there. If not let me know and I'll talk you through it or send you some picts of mine. Make sure you unplug the dryer first. You will also want to get 3 or 4 worm gear hose clamps, 4in.
Tape the section of pipe that meets the blower housing. Use clamps or pop rivets NOT screws to secure the elbow to the other two sections of pipe in the dryer. The pipe will go directly in front of the heating element and I think it would be too hot to use aluminum tape there.
Pull the dryer out, remove the 2 screws at the lower bottom of the front panel, remove panel. At the back of the dryer there is a clip that is screwed to the cabinet that holds the last section of duct in place. Remove that screw. Remove all the metal exhaust ductwork from the dryer. Knock out the left vent hole in the cabinet. You should be able to take it from there. If not let me know and I'll talk you through it or send you some picts of mine. Make sure you unplug the dryer first. You will also want to get 3 or 4 worm gear hose clamps, 4in.
Tape the section of pipe that meets the blower housing. Use clamps or pop rivets NOT screws to secure the elbow to the other two sections of pipe in the dryer. The pipe will go directly in front of the heating element and I think it would be too hot to use aluminum tape there.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
You'll need to cut cone section of duct about 7 1/2 in long. This will go from the blower to the elbow.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
You'll need to cut another piece 13 or 14 inches long to go from the elbow thru the hole to the outside of the cabinet. There is enough room for the ductwork and the wires, don't worry.
Knocking out the knock out...
Is there a specific way to knock out the knockout? Usually there is a starter area, but this one doesn't have one and seems to be a part of the panel...just don't want to dent the rest of the dryer side.
Is there a specific way to knock out the knockout? Usually there is a starter area, but this one doesn't have one and seems to be a part of the panel...just don't want to dent the rest of the dryer side.
mark_wpduet
Well-known member
To OP
I had a brand new TL washer/dryer set that I bought at Best Buy in 2002 (sold to my sis 3 years later and got a Duet set)...At any rate. I had just moved into an Apartment in 02..(bottom floor of a 3 level apartment building) I noticed the EXACT same thing happening with my Whirlpool dryer and it took a while to dry too (over 60 mins)...I would have to vacuum lint out of the inside of the dryer. I think the dryer exhaust went straight up three levels..How that's a code violation I do not know, but it did the same thing your dryer is doing. When I moved into this house in late 04, the dryer did not do this at all. No lint inside (except lint screen of course).....Strange that some people with proper venting who have this SQ dryer are having that same problem, because that's one of the very symptoms of a clogged vent.
I had a brand new TL washer/dryer set that I bought at Best Buy in 2002 (sold to my sis 3 years later and got a Duet set)...At any rate. I had just moved into an Apartment in 02..(bottom floor of a 3 level apartment building) I noticed the EXACT same thing happening with my Whirlpool dryer and it took a while to dry too (over 60 mins)...I would have to vacuum lint out of the inside of the dryer. I think the dryer exhaust went straight up three levels..How that's a code violation I do not know, but it did the same thing your dryer is doing. When I moved into this house in late 04, the dryer did not do this at all. No lint inside (except lint screen of course).....Strange that some people with proper venting who have this SQ dryer are having that same problem, because that's one of the very symptoms of a clogged vent.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
There are 4 little weld spots if you look real close you can see them. Just take a flat head screw driver and a hammer to it.
Yes, mine is already to the right.
Yes, mine is already to the right.
spinmon
Well-known member
?
I thought MAX reccommened exhaust length used to be about 12'. My '96 Kenmore (door screen) gets a level of lint/fuzz similar to yours in fairly short order. Try leaving the build-up alone & see if it doesn't just stay like that & no more. I WOULD seal around the filter contact area.
I thought MAX reccommened exhaust length used to be about 12'. My '96 Kenmore (door screen) gets a level of lint/fuzz similar to yours in fairly short order. Try leaving the build-up alone & see if it doesn't just stay like that & no more. I WOULD seal around the filter contact area.
mark_wpduet
Well-known member
12'........I dunno. My laundry room is in the middle of the house and the vents through the roof. I would guestimate 18 feet total....there are no 90 degree turns unless you count the initial turn that is in the beginning of the vent, otherwise there are 2 45 degree turns then it goes out through the roof cap. I have to use an electric leaf blower to blow it out every few months. I have never seen build up like that in my dryer though.
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