Speed Queen Front Load With Heater?

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

Chet, you have to follow the instructions in the user manual for this SQ Sanitize with Oxi. It's a prolonged wash phase, deeper rinses, longer spins if I remember correctly.

And I agree, makes me mad SQi so arrogant. And I get better results in a front loader with an onboar heater and very high wash water temps.
 
SQ is losing sales by not having a heater.

The average citizen is totally clueless about internal water heaters and their strong importance to delivering clean laundry in front loaders. There's no way I'd own a front loader without an internal heater or a top loader without a tempering valve.
 
I get the feeling this is simply a super heavy duty cycle. I'm not sure how well oxi works, but I've always been under the impression a true sani cycle gets temps over 180*F.

Speed Queen is arrogant I regret to say. I'd have given them the benefit of the doubt until they started deleting and rigging reviews while silencing dissenting voices. How the TR series is still in existence is beyond me.

I've actually been debating of switching to a SQ FL to save on what will probably ever increasing utility prices beyond 2022, but now I'm left to think I might be better off with what I have.

My water heater is some distance between where its located in the basement and the upstairs laundry room. With the low water charge, metal drums and king size load I can see the wash temps never exceeding 110*F I don't want to purge lines or set the water heater any higher than its at (145*F).
 
Why not

Put a small instantaneous heater to boost the hot water temperature? I that way you can boost it up to 180 if you so desperately want to, it’s the closest thing you can do to manually installing a heater in a speed queen washing machine
 
The thing the US has to realize being that if they wish to remain a super power they must put down their ego and take evidence based solutions into account that aren't always their own. Meaning since heaters have been such a success in Europe at producing clean laundry with less energy US manufacturers need to begin adding heaters to all front load washers.
 
You're forgetting several bits of facts.

First and foremost in Europe and many other areas outside of North America 208v-240v power dominates. In some cases domestic settings can or could get 400v power. As such washing machines heating their own water was a no brainer. Any worth their salt could take tap cold water from northern areas of Europe in winter and quickly reach near or boil wash temps.

United States and Canada for that matter when with top loading washers coupled with liberal use of chlorine bleach for whitening, stain removal and sanitizing. Thus need for very hot or boiling water really didn't exist in domestic settings. More to point with top loading automatics that used huge amounts of water for washing heater wouldn't have been practical.

Last bit brings up point that you can only extract so much electric power from a 120v/15amp outlet. Upping things to 20amp increases things a bit, but most laundry areas in USA have 120v/15amp ready. Before anyone starts not all homes have a 220v dryer electrical outlet. Especially in areas where natural gas dominates for any sort of heating purposes.

SQ front loaders are for all intent and purposes OPL/commercial/laundromat washers under the bonnet. That's the whole point. Those wanting a robust, no nonsense front loading washer that's built to last will go with SQ. These machines may have shorter cycles, don't heat water, and so forth but make up for that with a bit more aggressive wash action (in normal/cottons at least), and get through a wash cycle in < 40 mins. OTOH my European washers allot almost an hour for rinsing and final spin alone for some cycles.

SQ did offer a washer with heater early on, and IIRC it did not do well in sales. That might have been because it merely boosted incoming hot water to 120F or 140F, cannot recall which.

SQ does not sell commercial/OPL/laundromat washers with internal electric heaters, not in North America anyway. Laundromat/commercial washers can be fitted with steam heating capability, but that's another matter.
 
As I have said numerous times before, Americans have been brainwashed with dumbed down water temperatures and energy star guidelines. I've always had in the back of my mind my house is wired as 208V. I've not really paid much attention to it until the LG washer arrived last fall. The Duet never really struggled to get to 127F/158F on Whites and Sanitize temps. But Allergen and Heavy Duty did and I just dind't attribute it to those cycles incorporating the stepped temperture rises and the 208V. The first two always had a cooldown at the end of the heaviest soil levels and that wasn't always the case for the other two, so I just used the first two cycles (after all if a cooldown tempering of wash water dind't happen, that meant it didn't get to 125F). But the LG apparently has a waeker heater. It does pretty well to get to temps of 62C on the heaviest soil levels using Extra Hot for the allotted time on specified cycles. But it takes an additional 30-45 minutes to get from 63C to 70C-72C and fortunately I have a downloaded cycle that gives me that additional 30-45 minutes default on heaviest soil level.

And the 2015 Kenmore Elite dishwasher seemed to always add 15-20 minutes during the main wash cycle to make sure it reached the target water temperature it sensed it needed for heavy soil.
 
On wash day, turn up water heater?

I know this would not be an option for all. There is no automatic temperature control with Speed Queen. I am fortunate that I have a gas water heater. I would just turn it up as needed. I have been leaving mine at 120, and it seems to work for me. With that said, this definitely would pose a scald risk to hh with small children, disabled, and elderly.

Front load washers use so little water anyway, tap hot should be tap hot.

I really feel part of the reason my LG was so good at eliminating odors like mildew and diaper-type loads is the heated water. I have this one item that nothing has worked, I may turn up the water heater to see if that does the trick. Nothing including ofor out, bleach, or Lysol sanitizer has worked. I am definitely interested in getting the Laundry Alternatives portable with internal heater just for whites and those loads I described.
 
As one of those people who is "totally clueless about the importance of a water heater", I sure do get tired of people droning on about them as if it is impossible to get clean clothes without one. Our F&P top loader didn't have one, our SQ top loader did not have one and our SQ front loader doesn't have one and yet we have always had bright clean clothes. I wonder how we do it?
 
I have the FF7 since December 2021 and the "Sanitize" cycle is a joke. It uses hot water that comes in at whatever temp the water heater is set, minus cooling down thru the water pipes on the way to the washer, then tumbles the wash for 60 minutes (the owners manual is free on the SQ website) while the water cools down a bit more during the tumble action. The manual states to use Oxygen bleach and apparently SQ believes that alone will sanitize with whatever hot water temp any given consumer has arriving at the washer. Whatever.

While 'sanitize' can simply be defined as 'to make clean', this is a marketing ploy and it shall not be confused by this consumer with 'disinfect.'

So far, I haven't used the Sanitize cycle because having items tumble around for an hour does not appeal to me. Our household doesn't need to disinfect anything, and our elderly dog has since died, so this isn't a big issue.

I miss having an internal heater (our Miele did), but other factors led me choose to the SQ FL over other brands that have one. It is what it is. I lived with an non-hE TL for decades that had no heater and we all survived. ;-)
If SQ came out with a FL with an internal heater, I'd trade this thing in before you could blink an eye. It was nice having one, but we'll be fine without it.

Without the internal heater the pillowcases come out smelling clean by adding STPP, so it was simply an adaptation. (we use unscented detergent, so if it isn't clean, I know by smell; there are no perfumes to hide unclean items.)

I'm still pleased with the washer and have no regrets.
 
Reply 13

What about a 240 V 15 amp outlet? As those would be able to support the electrical requirements of a European domestic washing machine and they are about as easy to install as A normal 120v outlet, it’s something I’m planning to do when I eventually try and move over to the US,
 
I know what it’s like having a machine without a heater

But the good thing is the machine does use a lot of hot water and so it’ll basically be about 50° once it reaches the machine, do you have a machine that I have they do have heaters are European machines and I only have one front loader with a built-in heater
 
208-240v

Panethera, You're right. Though there is hope. Code requires that each laundry area have a dedicated 120 volt 20 amp circuit for the washer. Often times this circuit has no other receptacles but the one for the washer itself. It wouldn't be all that impractical to begin converting over to 208-240v. I think it needs to happen if we are to save water and energy. Given that the world will one day be all electric, I think this is inevitable.

@appnut: Much so, sadly. Americans need to broaden their horizon and accept that heaters along with extended wash times in a front load washer are better over all for both clothing and the environment.
 
Whirlpool FL TOL energy usage is 159 kWH vs most manufacturers with heated FL that are in the 100-110 kWH range. I could be wrong, but I’m assuming this difference is either a more powerful heater or a less efficient one. Either way, I’m thinking the 120 volt outlets are not being maxed by the heaters in most brands as they seem to have some more room for more powerful heaters if they wanted to.
 
120v x 15amps gives about 1800 watts draw. Current code IIRC calls for not drawing more than 80% (more or less) of max so now things are down to about 1440 to 1500.

Sudden burst of high wattage use such as AC, fridge or other motors most circuits can withstand.

Thus most washers with heaters sold in USA for domestic use are at 1kva to 1.3kva or bit higher. To get slightly more power would require going to a 20amp circuit on 120v.

On the other hand many front loaders today are rather stingy with water, especially on wash cycles that require heater. Less water means less energy required for heating.

None of this even touches fact not all front loaders will reach set temp for wash cycle anyway.
 
John, the reason why the WP FL has rating of 159 KWH is because of software programming. Coincidentally my old Duet also had a similar KWH rating all the way back to 2011. First of all, on the Duet most common cycles had the heater automatically maintain and boost wash water temperatures. I suspect the current WP & Maytag still have the same appropach. Cycles that did automatically have th heater come on was Bulky, Whites, Heavy Duty, Sanitize. Normal and Delicate the heater didn't come on. Currently, the heaeter may come on at highest soil levels for Wrinkle Free, but I don't know for sure. Also, the Duet heated warm water between 95 & 100F. Hot wash was 125F-127F. Allergene was between 131F & 133F. Contrast those temps with my LG. The heater will come on to reach target temp and once that is reaached, the heateer turns off and doesn't come back on. Those cycles are Whites, Bulky, Towels, and Perm Press. For warm target temp ranges from 89F to 94F. Hot ranges from 104F to 112F. For Normal & Heavy Duty cycles, the heater does not come on at all for warm or hot water temps. (by design). Whatevr the temperature is once fill is complete is what the wash water temps is and begins to decline from there. For these two cycles, if Extra Hot is selected, there's no specific target temp except highest temp before heater turns of is 158F (allergene is 161F-163F). As I've said before, 90F classified as warm is marginal at best. The thought of "hot" being 112 is abysmal and disgusting. With button pushing, I am thankful I can reach temperatures I find acceptable for warm or hot.
 
Code legally lets you draw 100% of the circuit. The 80% rule on applies to items that will run for more than 3 hours without cycling on/off and a select few items specifically listed in the code like water heaters. Other than that an 1,800 watt hair dryers and 1,800 watt toaster ovens, panini presses, ect are both safe and legal.

The intent of the 80% rule is to reduce the probability of nuisance tripping due to heat build up in panel-boards which could shift a breaker's time current curve below the breaker's rating. The wire itself can handle its rated current and then some continuously without even getting warm to the touch. Modern wire insulation is good for 90*C and device terminals at least 60*C.



But your still right. At 1,800 watts heating will take much longer than at 3,600 watts. Boil wash won't take place without a long thermal hold that most people will not want to wait for. On the other hand detergent works better with longer wash times.
 
Front load washers with resistance electric heating

These can make a little bit of sense from a sufficiency basis if you have a resistance electric water heater and that’s all that you can have in your home.

I have a 17-year-old Speed Queen front load washer with a heater, it probably has been used 20 times in 17 years.

I have a KitchenAid pro line frontload washer with a heater as well I’ve probably used it six times, I also have a new stainless steel Speed Queen frontload washer without a heater it’s the best of the three of those machines at cleaning.

I work as a technician I get very dirty every item of clothing Hass to be changed every day I have no problem getting large loads of dirty clothes clean without a heater, a wash temperature of around 120° works very well bleach is used for white loads and very dirty like things to sanitize.

For me and many people using the heater is just a large waste of electricity.

Over half the front load washers I work on have a heater option 90% of customers tell me they never use it or only tried it a couple times.

The 17 year old Speed Queen I have can heat the water to about 150°, the KitchenAid pro line also heats the water quite hot if desired but I’ve never seen any difference in cleaning a quarter cup of bleach does much more.

John L
 
More concentrated?

I have top loads.

My water heater is set at 120. I use warm for almost all loads and hot for whites.

John L.'s post made me think. Was it really the heat option on the LG that reduced the mildew and pet odor smell or something else? Both of my top loads have a really good wash action, use the proper temperature (no adding cold when hot is chosen), and have plenty of water. This along with a quality detergent has worked for our needs for the most part. I've only had a few cases where something with a mildew or pet smell lingered.

With my LG front load, I didn't use more than the recommended amounts of anything. I have two options. Turn up the heat or possibly use an enzyme product.

So I have this one article of clothing that I really want the pet smell out. I read the instructions on OdoBan a little closer. It looks like it requires 32 ounces per gallon of water to remove pet odor. So I have filled up the washer with just enough water to cover the item and added a lot more of the OdoBan and will let it soak. But whatever is used also needs to kill the odor causing bacteria too. It was really expensive to use the recommended amount of the product I have, so I be curious is there is a more concentrated option. This is where the hotter temperature might come into play. While this was just one article sometimes it can be a whole load full of stuff that requires some extra product.

Is there an enzyme cleaner that is more concentrated to work in top loads?
 

Similar threads

M
The Speed Queen TC5
Replies
2
Views
697
panasonicvac
panasonicvac
M
Speed Queen Washing Machine - Export Model Differences
Replies
8
Views
1K
MickGearz
M
B
LG Washer - Does it have a sanitary cycle via downloaded cycle?
Replies
23
Views
2K
foraloysius
foraloysius
pierreandreply4
just went info on aw members who owns speed queen tc 5 or maytag Maytag Commercial Model MVWP586GW
Replies
0
Views
284
pierreandreply4
pierreandreply4
S
Both my Speed Queen units stop working I don't know what I'm missing or doing wrong - Please help.
Replies
17
Views
969
pierreandreply4
pierreandreply4

Latest posts

Back
Top