Speed Queen Front Loader owners . . . cleaning results?

[eemac]

I'm strongly considering getting a front-loading washer again. The contenders are a (used?) Speed Queen or a LG MW4000HWA.

I'd appreciate hearing from real-life owners: how are the SQ front loaders for cleaning performance?

 

[gansky1]

 

 

I have two SQ front-loaders, a 2004 model and a 2017 version (larger door and ball-balance system).  Do you know when the used SQ you're looking at is from?  The newer the better, that ball-balance ring at the front of the drum is excellent, never fails to spin fast and smooth.  

 

I have never had an issue with cleaning, hair/debris removal, etc.  Excellent performer.  

 

[whirlykenmore78]

Have had my 2016 SQ FL:

Going on 8 years now. Never have I had a problem with anything not coming out clean and well rinsed. Even with large and or heavily soiled loads.

They do a great job and will outlast any other machine on the market.

As mentioned above it is best to go with the newer design.
WK78

 

[combo52]

Newer extra large, Speed Queen front load washers

After fooling with washers for well over 50 years, I have never seen a better washing machine when you consider everything, cleaning performance, balancing easy, repair ability, and you’re just not gonna ever wear the thing out.

They have gotten expensive, but it’s still less than the cost of two cheap washers.

John

 

[tcw1184]

I just got rid of my LG front loader to go back to a top loader (Speed Queen TR7). Roughly 10 years of use with no operational issues, but it was such a pain to keep odor-free. I always left the door wide open, did routine tub cleaning with bleach, and it still stunk. I know it needed to be fully disassembled to remove all the gunk from the tub and lines, but I wanted to switch anyway so it wasn’t worth my time to do. The machine cleaned well when it was newer, but as soon as it started getting funky my clothes were starting to smell as well.

I considered the FF7 because it looked impressive, but decided to stick to the top loader.

 

[combo52]

Stinky washing machines

If your washing machine is getting stinky, you’re not using it properly. Your clothing is not clean either even if it looks clean.

It’s moreIf you’re washing machine is getting stinky, you’re not using it properly. Your clothing is not clean either even if it looks clean.

It’s more of a problem in front loading washers because they use some little water. The sheer volume of water that top loaders use will mask poor washing practices.

I have an 18-year-old Speed Queen front load machine and a three-year-old one both smell and look like new I have never cleaned anything about them except wiping off the window.

The trick to good results is to use good detergent and never washing water cooler than 100° I try for 120 for most loads at least one in six loads I use liquid chlorine bleach in the dispenser when I do towels sheets etc.

My clothing smells great last a long time and the machines are absolutely spotlessly clean inside and out, if you have a front load washer that gets smelly, good laundry practices, well clean it up without disassembly and cleaning but it may take 30 to 50 washer loads to get it back to a great condition.

John

 

[tcw1184]

Stinky Washing Machines

John - In addition to the stuff I mentioned, I always wash in hot water, have never used fabric softener, and primarily filled to the minimum line on the detergent dispenser tray. I consider that above and beyond what most consumers are doing with their front-load. If I was doing something wrong, I'm not sure what it was. I still feel that physical agitation and cleaning is the best way to keep the machine sanitary, and doing that on a top-load is significantly easier.

 

[mark_wpduet]

I've considered a SQ front loader for my next washer. In fact, I'm STILL considering it. I know, I know. It doesn't have a heater which is a bummer...but I lived with washers without a heater for YEARS...and my water heater is in the room with the machine...so I think I could get decently hot water as long as they don't mix with cold even when you choose hot....does anyone know? In other words... do you get TAP hot? That's what I would want.

and I'll never stop using bleach... even if it's just a little...I do ONE load of whites when doing laundry and that's usually the last load when I do laundry...I've always finished that way...doing the whites last...Not sure why. I feel like the machine gets sanitized while waiting for a few days for the next use. All I know is, whatever I'm doing I'm going to keep doing it because my machine must LOVE it...I'm approaching 19 years with it soon...and it still smells clean.

Weird that it sounds like you're doing everything right but it still smells...Usually that's happens when people have no clue or are just lazy or just don't realize how that funk can start growing if you don't know what you're doing.

 

[frigilux]

My 2023 SQ front-loader does an excellent job of cleaning. Full disclosure: I have softened water; water heater is set at 140 degrees; washer is eight inches away from water heater.

 

[combo52]

Speed Queen front loaders and hot water

Reply number seven. Hi Mark, Speed Queen does not temper the hot water, so whatever is available it will use when you select hot my newer Speed Queen is just 4 feet from the water heater. I keep my water about 130 or a little better, when I want a really hot wash, I just select pre-wash hot And then wash hot and it goes through a brief pre-wash with hot water drains and does a very brief spin dispenses more detergent and fill more hot water in. It’s too hot to touch plenty hot enough to get clothing clean.

This makes for a good hot wash and a fast cycle with no risk of burned up wiring or circuit boards or relays in the machine. Plus I have a gas water heater, which is cheaper to run than electric resistance heating anyway.

John

 

[helicaldrive]

FINALLY

Someone else also said — as I have said many times — that you don’t need a heater in a SQ FL, and all you have to do for a piping hot wash is set it for a hot pre-wash. The cold clothes and tubs cool down the first hot prewash fill, but the prewash only takes a few minutes, and then when the main wash fills with tap hot water, it stays piping hot throughout the wash. Much faster than a heater.

Of course if you were using the pre-wash as a true prewash to address protein stains, you’s never set the pre-wash on hot. But here the point is just to assure a hot wash when you otherwise would have started with hot water anyway.

My SQ FL is not super close to the water heater, but I just run the nearby faucet until the water is hot before starting the machine.

I thought my vintage Maytags and my 2016 SQ TL were the only way, and I vowed to keep them running forever. One load in the SQ FL changed my mind about that! I never used the TL again. The SQ FL yields much cleaner clothes with much less detergent and water, and less wear on the clothes. The SQ FL has never failed to get out a stain first try. I had a tightly woven blanket my cats used to puke bile on. It would take up to a dozen washes in the TLs to get that stain out, even with chlorine bleach. The SQ FL would always get it out first time, never fail.

For what it’s worth. Not saying the SQ FL is the only FL with merit. No doubt other brands are good too. Just saying you would not be disappointed with a SQ FL. With all brands including SQ you just have to figure out what selections to make to get it to do what you want it to do.

 

[henene4]

I don't doubt that these machines can clean very well.

But I still wouldn't want to trade true 140F+ washing for anything - but that might just be my EU bias.

And especially at the price point of a SQ FL, the cost of adding a relay, a heater and an NTC isn't going to break anybodys budget.
Especially if the platform already supports it.

 

[launderess]

1. Alliance Laundry Systems seems to offer various models SQ (or Unimac) washer with heating capabilities.

https://alliancelaundrysystems.wide...-1001_SpecSheet_SC70-DAM7_en-EU.pdf?x.share=t

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3180967/Alliance-Laundry-Systems-Sc70.html#manual

https://www.samstores.com/product-speedqueen-sc30-washer-10349.html

Then there are various commercial washer/extractors both hard and soft mount that can be set up to use steam for heating.

2. "But I still wouldn't want to trade true 140F+ washing for anything - but that might just be my EU bias."

Testing done by independent sources in EU early as 2013 (if not prior) showed good number of domestic washers failed to reach and or hold set temperature. This especially at 140 degrees F and above.

Suppose it falls under "what you don't know doesn't hurt you". Manufacturers of such machines don't believe owners will check or even care.

Older washers from Europe most certainly did reach and hold selected temps. My Miele W1070 will not only get water from near freezing to 200F, but will turn heater on again if detects set temp drops below that level. One knows this because there is a quite audible *thunk* sound when thermostat engages heater, then again when heater is shut down. Miele washer will heat water at any point in cycle (even past heating portion) up until and or just right before washer goes into rinse.

3. Never, ever, ever start washing with hot water. It cooks proteinous soil (that all laundry that has come into contact with a person) is fouled with, making it difficult to remove.

In many ways it was a sad day laundry wise when American households moved over to automatic washing machines. Prior to this whether manually or with semi-automatic washing machines whites/colourfast and other things that required a hot wash were presoaked or prewashed in cool or cold water. That took care of protein based soils before the orgy of hot and boil washing followed.

Yes, some fully automatic washers offered pre-wash or pre-soak cycles, but not everyone used them. People just bunged wash into machine, set it for "hot" wash and that was it. American's love affair with chlorine bleach covered a multitude of wash day sins, and one of them was bleaching out stains or soils that would or could have been removed by doing a cool or cold water prewash or soak.

4. SQ washers at local laundromat have different tub vanes than what one sees in their domestic cousins. They are rather large nearly solid bars that produce rather strong wash action. One can hear (and often feel) washing being lifted and slapped down against tub or itself with great force.

Four pieces of wash day pie are; Mechanical force, chemicals, water temperature and water level. One can move things about to achieve same results as all things being equal. Thus if SQ front loaders have stronger mechanical wash action then that will compensate (to some extent) lack of higher wash temps. Keeping in mind also modern laundry detergents work quite well at temps of 100 to 104 F.

 

[henene4]

Failing to reach 140F

I think you forgot who you are talking to - I'm more than aware about that thing.

The EU re-engineered the energy label back then.
But at that point, they did not specify that the rating cycle should or could be a separate cycle.
Neither did our testing magazine differentiate between the rating 60C (140F) Cottons cycle and a true Cottons cycle.

Result was:
Manufacturers wanted A+++ rated machines.
The cycle for that rating had to be called something like "Cottons 60".
But it couldn't reach 60C to get the A+++ rating, simply by laws of thermo dynamics.

Then they did not do what they did later and seperate a Cottons Eco cycle from the main Cottons cycle.
And our consumer reports equivalent of course just used Cottons 60.

Later they of course separated the Eco cycles, now having reworked the rating system entirely.

Point being: Since basically 2016 or there abouts, any washer in the EU gets near enough to 140F if set to that on any cycle unless you SPECIFICALLY choose an Eco cycle.

Same should go with a washer retailing for upwards of 2000$: Unless you select an Eco cycle, you should get 86/104/140F, regardless of load size, location of water heater and other conditions.
Or near enough.

 

[logixx]

Excerpt from a current Bosch manual for an A-Class energy label washer. I don't exactly know since when, but washers manuals have to list the maximum attained water temperature for certain cycles.

 

[henene4]

That came with the new energy label regulations and technically, as far as I understand, has only to be listed for the Eco cycle, but otherwise many manufacturers just list it anyway.

The temperature listed is the maximum temp reached for 5min continuously.
That's why for example AEG/ELux still lists 55C.

 

[logixx]

AEG/ELux still lists 55C

And LG always 10C or more below what is set.

 

[me]

Hotpoint were at it in the 1980's, when the energy efficiency labels were just a proposal.

I had to replace the failing microcontroller board on my mum's 1980 Hotpoint, and one of the changes of the replacement board, which had also been used in the later models, was that it reversed the function of the machine's "lower temperature" economy button, so that it would wash at 10°C lower that the original program temperature unless the button was pressed in. As I understand it the proposed energy labels would use the default settings, so reversing the function of the button would have improved the efficiency rating, but I think in the end, that model range was actually discontinued just before energy efficiency labels became compulsory.

I didn't buy the updated facia for the controls as it just changed the "lower temperature" legend above the '°C' button, to something like "heavy soil", although it did get swapped a few years later when my mum called out a Hotpoint repair man to fix another fault.