Speed Queen solid tub tune-up

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akronman

akronman

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Joined
Jul 20, 2010
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2,258
Location
Akron/Cleveland Ohio
My early 70's DA3780 washer runs perfectly, but needs some Rustoleum, etc, so it's apart a bit. For onr thing, here's the cement-weighted balance ring, no wonder she weighs a lot. There's also a cement bucket installed near the rear of the base for more balance. No reason to remove the inner tub, no leaks visible anywhere, so I wont.

akronman++1-26-2014-11-08-11.jpg
 
Main shaft

the splined shaft and the rotating assembly beneath it------Poly lube? 3-in-1? Lithium grease? Any other places I should check? You can see it's got 3 new belts, the pump is also sparkling and shiny. Someone had work done on this within the year.

akronman++1-26-2014-11-20-41.jpg
 
base

I will likely only remove the motor, then cautiously clean the base for Rustoleum, afte taping up parts that don't need paint. The u-shaped yoke(?) that goes thru the base doesn't spin, it's some balance/snubber/suspension item. What is it, for one thing, and what kind of lubrication?
As always, thanks to anyone/everyone who has Speed Queen experience and advice. This is a well-cared for machine that does a fun fine job, I am just cleaning and doing some preventative maintenance.

akronman++1-26-2014-11-26-44.jpg
 
leaks

40 years old, this ain't too bad for the right side of the machine. The gasket looks fine, and I have had great luck on Filter Flo tub/lid gaskets when I lube the tub rim with Vaseline prior to re-assembly, 3 years and no leaks on a FF. Better advice? I will wash it up first so I can follow and find any new leaks, but this is pretty expected at age 40

akronman++1-26-2014-11-31-21.jpg
 
center

here's the center shaft seal. Again, to me it looks like incredibly minor wear and water for its age, and I don't want to touch it.

The base has rust, but all hoses and the water inlet valve have been replaced, and the washer was in an ugly 1950's wet basement for 40 years. I read the evidence as "no current leaks" and have watched numerous loads with either the front off or the back, all is good.

akronman++1-26-2014-11-36-9.jpg
 
worst

that interior rust is the worst on any items, I can scrape/clean/prime/paint easily. As for bits of the exterior, screw holes with bits of rust??? New stainless steel sheet metal screws, for one thing. But with a basement installation and the colored cabinet, I won't attempt a paint job, my original posting shows it's in remarkable shape.

But for those exterior screw holes near the floor-----with Rustoleum on the base and on the interior of the side panel, and new stainless screws, is there some clear paint trick for small areas, to prevent additiional rust? Clear epoxy spray?

akronman++1-26-2014-11-42-10.jpg
 
Akronman every time you post pics of the innards

of that magnificent SQ, it makes me smile.

I can't offer any advice on what you plan to do (I have a late model unit totally different that yours).

But I must say, the shot of that famous Arc-Cuate transmission, proven in millions of installations, really made my day.

I marveled at the shots of large, sturdy, bolts holding the works together.

I gushed with pride when I saw nice solid steel (or aluminum) making up the components.

Your machine is living testimony to a long forgotten time of when made in USA really meant something. When quality, not shareholder value, was the name of the game.

Long before Americans became sheeple, value was not perceived as to what is the cheapest, but what gave you the longest use.

I mean really, you stated this machine is 40 years old correct? I will bet a box of Sears detergent that NO machine made today, regardless of it being TL or FL made here or in Timbuktu, will last 40 years. I challenge anyone on this forum to prove me wrong (of course I will be well into my 80's and probably in an old folks home).

Can't recall which thread or where, but someone posted a pic of the spider assembly from an LG or Samsung. It was a whopping 2 years old and looked like some scrap metal from Hiroshima or something.

Or the mode shifters that crap out on shareholder value driven GE TL machines. Or the legion of bearing failures in Whirltags. Or any FL with the fancy dancy electronics that blow up, short out, or have to be "rebooted".

Congrats again on finding this machine and kudos to you for your willingness to use some elbow grease in keeping it in tip top condition.
 
Motor shaf

in reply #1 picture, it ain't a set screw, it's a rod going thru the entire shaft. When I had some dis-assembly done and saw that, I took another good look and just put it all back together as is. Between the 3 belts and pump and the fluid drive just resting atop the motor shaft, it's pretty difficult to remove the motor. Too difficult if it ain't giving me a problem. The motor looks damn clean as is, no dust like on a dryer, and I got some Zoom Spout oil into the top motor bearing, that's gonna be good enough.

Next will be covering up what doens't need cleaned or wet or painted, there's no reason to remove the entire works since it all does work. My poor English in that last sentence is pure Akron OH talk.
 
Well do keep us posted

and be sure to put up more stuff on youtube. I would be most appreciative if you could film a cycle with the cover off showing off the Arc-Cuate transmission in action.
 
Refreshing a 1970s SQ Solid Tub Washer

Good project Mark, there are a few things that you should do to keep this machine working for at least a few more years. The rubber boot in the outer tub looks like it is starting to fail and a leak there will destroy many parts of this washer fast. Bob in Cleveland still has these boots along with the expertise to help you along.

Repainting the base and other parts will sure make it look better [ you can see they did a really bad paint job, but they never intended one of these washers to last more than about 15 years, today paint finishes and coatings are greatly superior.

There is no part of these neat older SQs that bears any resemblance to the current SQ TL washers, the inlet valve comes the closest and may be the only interchangeable part. The transmission is completely different, it has no parts wearing into the aluminum housing and no top or bottom oil seals to ever fail.

Keep us posted Mark, I will await seeing your finished masterpiece.

Ben, I will take you up on your bet on the box of Sears detergent in 40 years [ better save the box of detergent now as Sears will be long gone, LOL ], but neither of us will likely be still living.

Everyone said what junk the WP DD washers were 25 years ago and now we see them going strong at 25+ at a rate hundreds of times greater than ST SQs did when they were 25 years old, I have seen nothing with the new WP built BD TLers that makes me thing that they could not last 40 years in some usage situations.

John L.
 
To John L.

Not to hijack this thread, but when I first saw/fixed a W/P Kenmore direct drive washer, I laughed and thought this will never be as good as the old belt drive washer that I was so used to working on. The 1st Kenmore DD 24" washer I saw had a lame straight vane agitator and a spin drain. Pathetic, I thought. Truth be told, once they introduced a bigger tub and dual action agitator, I think it was the best top load washer made for the $$ ever. It has it's weak points, but less than all others. For dependability, performance, ease and cost of repair, and $$$, It's hard to beat. I am SORRY to see them go..except for stack units. I'm sure that will change soon also.

On another note, I not sure the cabrio style washers and the vertical modular washers will even come close to the direct drive washer in dependability and cost of service. Time will tell!!!!
 
Thanks John

I will gladly take your advice while this is apart. I'll get a new boot before I start major dis-assembly. Is there anything else, sight unseen, I should automatically get before I dig in? I have downloaded entire parts list diagrams, but no service amnual, so I will have some questions. Gaskets under the inner basket or something? Items 13 and 26 in this diagram? Or how much of that inner tub/agi post/sediment tube/assembly can stay together if I just need it out to get to the outer tub boot? I dont' believe any part of that assy is giving me probelms, I just need it removed for an hour.

If this were a routine Kenmore, Tag, or FilterFlo, I'd spruce it up but just keep running as is, those machine are relatively plentiful and easy to find. But this solid tub Queen I put in the catergory of my Norge and 1-18, significantly fewer built back in the day, so restore completely while I can still source parts, and treat gently and rarely for hopeful long-term use.

akronman++1-28-2014-17-10-29.jpg.gif
 
stuck

This pin holds the agitator block in place. Holds it too damn well, quite stuck. Parts list on Sears calls it a PIN TAPER. IS it tapered and will only come out one way? So far it ain't budging. Lots of PB Blaster. Eyeballs say it same size both ends, but that's not scientific.

akronman++2-6-2014-11-30-59.jpg
 
and

here is the drift pin I am using for hammering it out. Of course the suspension of the machine takes some of the hit, and the block turns sometimes, but I have had many damn good hammer blows and no luck yet. The pic shows that the post bolts came out easily. You can't remove the balance ring until the porcelain tub is out of the machine, but it's barely in the way.

akronman++2-6-2014-11-33-4.jpg
 

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