The Admiralpool Arrives Today
- Thread starter gmmcnair
- Start date
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ADJUSTING WARM WATER TEMPS
Try reversing the hot and cold hoses on the washer and reversing the two sets of wires on the inlet valve. Some of the new inlet valves are like 70% cold 30% hot by reversing you will get 70% hot 30% cold the only down fall is the cold rinse fill will take longer. You can also buy an inlet valve for a belt drive machine which will give you lots of water and a 50-50 mixture.
Try reversing the hot and cold hoses on the washer and reversing the two sets of wires on the inlet valve. Some of the new inlet valves are like 70% cold 30% hot by reversing you will get 70% hot 30% cold the only down fall is the cold rinse fill will take longer. You can also buy an inlet valve for a belt drive machine which will give you lots of water and a 50-50 mixture.
John,
I was thinking about this subject too - so many of Whirlpool's machines now are ATC-auto temperature control, maybe even all of them. Some of the current line started with standard mixing valves and they've now been slightly modified (with one of those engineering changes we've mentioned) to have a valve on either side of the fill-flume, one is blue and one is red. They appear about 6-8 inches apart on the back of the machine. I'd like to use a belt drive 358277 valve but I don't know now without knocking a hole in the rear panel, that one could be mounted. I did wonder however about using two separate single-solenoid valves and connecting them together on a T.
I think the best advice above may be to just get used to lower temps. The funny part is that with my belt drives and the absolutely frigid tap water we have in Charlotte right now, if I don't add a lot of hot to a machine, especially to those in the garage where it was only in the 50s this weekend, 'warm' is barely cool in my description. Contrast that to summer when warm, especially if I've used some hot water recently (finicky newer gas water heater) is almost too hot as our tap water could pass for luke-warm. It would be perfect for Cold-water Tide, no doubt. Maybe something that keeps these temps. better moderated isn't a bad thing?
Gordon
I was thinking about this subject too - so many of Whirlpool's machines now are ATC-auto temperature control, maybe even all of them. Some of the current line started with standard mixing valves and they've now been slightly modified (with one of those engineering changes we've mentioned) to have a valve on either side of the fill-flume, one is blue and one is red. They appear about 6-8 inches apart on the back of the machine. I'd like to use a belt drive 358277 valve but I don't know now without knocking a hole in the rear panel, that one could be mounted. I did wonder however about using two separate single-solenoid valves and connecting them together on a T.
I think the best advice above may be to just get used to lower temps. The funny part is that with my belt drives and the absolutely frigid tap water we have in Charlotte right now, if I don't add a lot of hot to a machine, especially to those in the garage where it was only in the 50s this weekend, 'warm' is barely cool in my description. Contrast that to summer when warm, especially if I've used some hot water recently (finicky newer gas water heater) is almost too hot as our tap water could pass for luke-warm. It would be perfect for Cold-water Tide, no doubt. Maybe something that keeps these temps. better moderated isn't a bad thing?
Gordon
supersurgilator
Well-known member
Could you post some pics of these machines please? I would love to see them.
from HD web site
spookiness
Well-known member
I think my panel is a little different
I have the ATW4475VQ, and I think the timer dial pattern is slightly different than the pic that stainfighter posted. I'll check.
The basket is dark gray speckled.
I have the ATW4475VQ, and I think the timer dial pattern is slightly different than the pic that stainfighter posted. I'll check.
The basket is dark gray speckled.
FYI folks - these babies are on sale again for $259!!!
