supremewhirlpol
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Thanks Gordon!
Until I can get this done, the machine will serve as a good show piece.
Until I can get this done, the machine will serve as a good show piece.
The YouCrate comes with Freezing Rain!
- Thread starter supremewhirlpol
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WP WASHER CENTER POST BEARINGS AND SEALS
The part # of the seal and bearing kit is 285134 this kit fits all WP BD & DD washers washers built from 1947- the present DDs including all compacts, full size and super capacity washers. You will also need a new spin tube which comes with the agitator shaft bearings and seals already installed inside. And you will need a new or good used agitator shaft, I have never seen a washer of this age and worn condition that had good agitator shafts and spin tube.
The part # of the seal and bearing kit is 285134 this kit fits all WP BD & DD washers washers built from 1947- the present DDs including all compacts, full size and super capacity washers. You will also need a new spin tube which comes with the agitator shaft bearings and seals already installed inside. And you will need a new or good used agitator shaft, I have never seen a washer of this age and worn condition that had good agitator shafts and spin tube.
More Bearing Tools:
I think a set of bearing tools is something I should plan on obtaining in the future. Are the tools the same for the short centerpost belt drives as it is for the tall centerpost belt drives? What is the official name of the tools and do they have any part numbers?
Sorry to be a pain, but it's something I know next to nothing about,
Dave
I think a set of bearing tools is something I should plan on obtaining in the future. Are the tools the same for the short centerpost belt drives as it is for the tall centerpost belt drives? What is the official name of the tools and do they have any part numbers?
Sorry to be a pain, but it's something I know next to nothing about,
Dave
Dave -
I don't remember the part numbers for the tools, but I believe the numbers are mentioned in my 1970s Kenmore repair manual. I'll let you know if I find them.
The tools are the same for the three centerpost lengths (I think they fit the spring-suspension portables too but I am not certain of that).
Have a good week!
Gordon
I don't remember the part numbers for the tools, but I believe the numbers are mentioned in my 1970s Kenmore repair manual. I'll let you know if I find them.
The tools are the same for the three centerpost lengths (I think they fit the spring-suspension portables too but I am not certain of that).
Have a good week!
Gordon
Melvin
What exactly, if I may ask, are the modifications you were going to do to this machine?.....
I have a 1983 WP Supreme, to turbocharge it, or at least kick it up a notch, I switched the pulley on the motor from 2 inch to 2 1/2 inch....this turned Gentle wash to normal, and normal to super scrubbing action....and the drain is full powered, blow the drain hose out of the tub pressure.....a little too much kick, the spin is nice and fast, but I need to find a 2 1/4 inch pulley should work best, a little kick is what I wanted, but not overkill...
What exactly, if I may ask, are the modifications you were going to do to this machine?.....
I have a 1983 WP Supreme, to turbocharge it, or at least kick it up a notch, I switched the pulley on the motor from 2 inch to 2 1/2 inch....this turned Gentle wash to normal, and normal to super scrubbing action....and the drain is full powered, blow the drain hose out of the tub pressure.....a little too much kick, the spin is nice and fast, but I need to find a 2 1/4 inch pulley should work best, a little kick is what I wanted, but not overkill...
mrb627
Well-known member
Yogi
We need a "Whirlpool's Gone Wild" video...
Malcolm
We need a "Whirlpool's Gone Wild" video...
Malcolm
I should do that Malcolm.....this is something you have to see.....shocked me the first time....not what I expected, and wasn't thinking of when the drain kicked in....live and learn....
WOW, never seen that color before, not even in an advertisement?
Special order, color made for a builder?
Really nice, I like!
Special order, color made for a builder?
Really nice, I like!
3beltwesty
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My Aunt had a Sear Kenmore TL washer back in the 1960's that sort of was that color blue
supremewhirlpol
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Hi Martin,
When I get the bearings and seals issues fixed, the original motor will be replaced with 3phase inverter duty TEFC motor and VFD system post#493556 will give you an idea of what the motor and VFD will look like. I will not change the pulley ration of the machine. Motor will be 1/2hp and 3450RPM.
I have thought about replacing the pump with an electric one, however in order to make it properly behave with the existing system (electrically) is not the easiest thing to do. Or perhaps I'm over thinking the logic. I have most of the puzzle figured out though.
This machine has no work area light. My mark imperial XII has one, but this one does not that's a definite NONO! There's no tub light either. That's what the HID lamp in post#493115 is for.
drewz:
I think the color was special order, and to my knowledge, the color was only offered on one or two models within the 1967-1968 time period.
Motor profiles:
These will have to be used so that when the machine is spinning it does not go either wild, fly apart, or implode. Being that I will keep the pulley ratio the same, during agitation the motor speed will be variable. During drain, the motor speed will be full nameplate rpm. When it is time for spin the rpm's will drop to ~1725rpm for normal spin, or 1140rpm, for slower spin. Keeping the timer and other electrics the same, I will have to add other switches, sensors, other machine controls in order to make this logic happen. The Whirlpool washer will still operate on 120v.
When I get the bearings and seals issues fixed, the original motor will be replaced with 3phase inverter duty TEFC motor and VFD system post#493556 will give you an idea of what the motor and VFD will look like. I will not change the pulley ration of the machine. Motor will be 1/2hp and 3450RPM.
I have thought about replacing the pump with an electric one, however in order to make it properly behave with the existing system (electrically) is not the easiest thing to do. Or perhaps I'm over thinking the logic. I have most of the puzzle figured out though.
This machine has no work area light. My mark imperial XII has one, but this one does not that's a definite NONO! There's no tub light either. That's what the HID lamp in post#493115 is for.
drewz:
I think the color was special order, and to my knowledge, the color was only offered on one or two models within the 1967-1968 time period.
Motor profiles:
These will have to be used so that when the machine is spinning it does not go either wild, fly apart, or implode. Being that I will keep the pulley ratio the same, during agitation the motor speed will be variable. During drain, the motor speed will be full nameplate rpm. When it is time for spin the rpm's will drop to ~1725rpm for normal spin, or 1140rpm, for slower spin. Keeping the timer and other electrics the same, I will have to add other switches, sensors, other machine controls in order to make this logic happen. The Whirlpool washer will still operate on 120v.
bendixmark
Well-known member
spin noise
The noise you are hearing is vibration from excessive hum from the motor.Those round motors used to be known for being just as quiet as can be unless the machune had seen some overloading in its lifetime.I rebuilt and sold hundreds of washers like that years ag
ne of the problems the 67s had was that around then Whirlpool dropped the water level lower so the high water level is not as high as it was on the earlier 60s models so when you had a normal full load in the machine it was already working too hard causing the motor to develop excessive hum.I am not hearing much centerpost bearing noise there most of that is the bearing in the spin tube which I believe is still available.If someone had a spare round motor or maybe the one you have can be rebuilt that would solve your problem.I used to see that all the time on those.Also I would give the water level switch a single turn or two to bring the level up 2 inches and after that it should purr.You should also make sure the belt isnt too tight that will also cause hum.
The noise you are hearing is vibration from excessive hum from the motor.Those round motors used to be known for being just as quiet as can be unless the machune had seen some overloading in its lifetime.I rebuilt and sold hundreds of washers like that years ag
ne of the problems the 67s had was that around then Whirlpool dropped the water level lower so the high water level is not as high as it was on the earlier 60s models so when you had a normal full load in the machine it was already working too hard causing the motor to develop excessive hum.I am not hearing much centerpost bearing noise there most of that is the bearing in the spin tube which I believe is still available.If someone had a spare round motor or maybe the one you have can be rebuilt that would solve your problem.I used to see that all the time on those.Also I would give the water level switch a single turn or two to bring the level up 2 inches and after that it should purr.You should also make sure the belt isnt too tight that will also cause hum.
NOISEY WP WASHER
Remember Mark I had that washer in my shop and it has worn bearings, the normal hum-vibration of the motor will make worn bearings vibrate but the motor is fine. Also no amount of overloading any washer will damage the motor to the point that it will get louder and hum or vibrate, thats one of the most ridiculous theories I have ever heard. I would love to see anyone prove that theory.
Remember Mark I had that washer in my shop and it has worn bearings, the normal hum-vibration of the motor will make worn bearings vibrate but the motor is fine. Also no amount of overloading any washer will damage the motor to the point that it will get louder and hum or vibrate, thats one of the most ridiculous theories I have ever heard. I would love to see anyone prove that theory.
supremewhirlpol
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I have to go with John on this one. The basket has a little play in it, there's some bearings or seals somewhere that need to be replaced. Also, this machine is a million years old, the bearings and seals need to be replaced anyway.
bendixmark
Well-known member
motor hum
Not ridiculous,The main cause of loud motor hum is overloading,either because the water level is low or because they are actually overloading the machine.I know this from rebuilding whirlpool washers like that one in my basement for the last 36 years.I live and breathe whirlpool washers.I would be willing to bet the centerpost bearings are fine,I know that noise oh so well.I used to hear that noise on belt drives that had an extremely loud motor and all the bearings were perfect.when centerpost bearings are really bad you will see crud coming out around the brake drum and a ring of oil spots on the cabinet.In the seventiies I did dozens of loud motor complaints and I used to replace the motor with a known quiet one ,raise the water level as needed ,educate the customer on loading and the problem never returned.I have been told by many I am nuts for thinking this but I also dont know anyone who has studied these machines as closely as I have.
Not ridiculous,The main cause of loud motor hum is overloading,either because the water level is low or because they are actually overloading the machine.I know this from rebuilding whirlpool washers like that one in my basement for the last 36 years.I live and breathe whirlpool washers.I would be willing to bet the centerpost bearings are fine,I know that noise oh so well.I used to hear that noise on belt drives that had an extremely loud motor and all the bearings were perfect.when centerpost bearings are really bad you will see crud coming out around the brake drum and a ring of oil spots on the cabinet.In the seventiies I did dozens of loud motor complaints and I used to replace the motor with a known quiet one ,raise the water level as needed ,educate the customer on loading and the problem never returned.I have been told by many I am nuts for thinking this but I also dont know anyone who has studied these machines as closely as I have.
Awesome BD Whirlpool
I saw those Youtube videos of that turquoise belted Whirlpool washer, and that is one killer good washing machine-I think supremewhirlpool should restore it from the ground up! It sounds as good as music!
I saw those Youtube videos of that turquoise belted Whirlpool washer, and that is one killer good washing machine-I think supremewhirlpool should restore it from the ground up! It sounds as good as music!
nOISEY WP WASHER
Mark your observations are accurate and this goes to prove that sometimes there two ways to solve a noise problem. WP did have a lot of motor vibration problems with the square grey GE motors that were used in the 1970s, and we would often replace them or use the quite motor mount kit that WP sold to solve this problem. These motors were out of balance when they left the factory and in fact this often generated a warranty call and we fixed the problem under warranty. WP also had a tolerance problem with the top agitator shaft bearing in the spin tube starting in the mid 1970s and this caused the same annoying buzz that the worn out agitator shaft bearing does in Melvin's washer. As a result of this bearing problem we replaced many spin-tube assemblies in machines and the problem disappeared. GE and WP had a major disagreement going on around 1980 and WP never used and GE motors in thier appliances after this time and just used Emerson motors which were generally better balanced. But I will never believe that overloading a washer can cause the motor to become out of balance. Mark I would love to meet or talk to you some time I am sure we would have lots to talk about when you consider all the WP built machines we have both rebuilt, if you or anyone else come to the Washington area come and check out all the cool appliances.
Mark your observations are accurate and this goes to prove that sometimes there two ways to solve a noise problem. WP did have a lot of motor vibration problems with the square grey GE motors that were used in the 1970s, and we would often replace them or use the quite motor mount kit that WP sold to solve this problem. These motors were out of balance when they left the factory and in fact this often generated a warranty call and we fixed the problem under warranty. WP also had a tolerance problem with the top agitator shaft bearing in the spin tube starting in the mid 1970s and this caused the same annoying buzz that the worn out agitator shaft bearing does in Melvin's washer. As a result of this bearing problem we replaced many spin-tube assemblies in machines and the problem disappeared. GE and WP had a major disagreement going on around 1980 and WP never used and GE motors in thier appliances after this time and just used Emerson motors which were generally better balanced. But I will never believe that overloading a washer can cause the motor to become out of balance. Mark I would love to meet or talk to you some time I am sure we would have lots to talk about when you consider all the WP built machines we have both rebuilt, if you or anyone else come to the Washington area come and check out all the cool appliances.
supremewhirlpol
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OH! So that's why only Emerson motors are used now.
Does anyone know the part no. for the spintube, and transmission, or transmission shaft?
Does anyone know the part no. for the spintube, and transmission, or transmission shaft?
supremewhirlpol
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Time to look at the Whirlpool 24" DD. I've only seen 2 of these in person. I refer to this machine as 'Model 0'. It's a machine that I started searching for since ~2000, ever since I saw one for the first time.
supremewhirlpol
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Console... As you can see, it looks like the BD models of this era.
supremewhirlpol
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Alco Appliance?
Hmmm...
Hmmm...
supremewhirlpol
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Design 2000
Regal series
3 cycle
Regal series
3 cycle
supremewhirlpol
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only 2 water levels! high and low
supremewhirlpol
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Sell date
supremewhirlpol
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Energy Guide
supremewhirlpol
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)
supremewhirlpol
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Spec. sheet
Melvin -
NEAT DD washer. Is this an early enough machine to have the pump in the back? I know that the first production did not have the pump centered in front, instead they were toward the back, at about 10 o'clock or 11 or so (I think).
As to the part numbers you asked for on your awesome belt-drive, they are:
For a complete basket drive and spin tube, the last part number was 383923 (NLA)
The complete transmission is 362901 (NLA). This is a universal replacement that fits all belt-drives except the pre-1974 super-tall centerpost machines.
You will need an 18-1/4" spin tube, which I believe is also NLA but is part 383921. Be careful not to get the tall spin tube which goes with the above tall transmission (doubtful you'd find one) or the very common 13.5" spin tube which is used on the 1978 and later models.
The agitator shaft is part number 285036. Same thing, most likely NLA.
Some of these items are still around, you'll just have to look for them.
Gordon
NEAT DD washer. Is this an early enough machine to have the pump in the back? I know that the first production did not have the pump centered in front, instead they were toward the back, at about 10 o'clock or 11 or so (I think).
As to the part numbers you asked for on your awesome belt-drive, they are:
For a complete basket drive and spin tube, the last part number was 383923 (NLA)
The complete transmission is 362901 (NLA). This is a universal replacement that fits all belt-drives except the pre-1974 super-tall centerpost machines.
You will need an 18-1/4" spin tube, which I believe is also NLA but is part 383921. Be careful not to get the tall spin tube which goes with the above tall transmission (doubtful you'd find one) or the very common 13.5" spin tube which is used on the 1978 and later models.
The agitator shaft is part number 285036. Same thing, most likely NLA.
Some of these items are still around, you'll just have to look for them.
Gordon
supremewhirlpol
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Thanks Gordon.
This machine is not early enough for the pump to be in the back. The first machine that I saw in 2000 was. However, it was in BAD shape, cabinet off, frame rusted Very bad.
Electrically speaking, this machine has had some patch work done to it, to which if it were not my machine, I would tell the owner to get a new one. I have gotten the machine working, however, the electrical patching done to this machine, I don't feel comfortable with. Before I get done with this machine, I will have to fix the existing patches. The frame looks very good for a machine this old. Tub spring was missing, took care of that. The main issue was the timer. The contacts for spin and agitate were so badly scored, the circuit was open. A little sand paper, electrical degreaser, and contact cleaner, causes the timer to work properly FOR NOW.
Here is shot of first wash. Machine is VERY quiet!!
This machine is not early enough for the pump to be in the back. The first machine that I saw in 2000 was. However, it was in BAD shape, cabinet off, frame rusted Very bad.
Electrically speaking, this machine has had some patch work done to it, to which if it were not my machine, I would tell the owner to get a new one. I have gotten the machine working, however, the electrical patching done to this machine, I don't feel comfortable with. Before I get done with this machine, I will have to fix the existing patches. The frame looks very good for a machine this old. Tub spring was missing, took care of that. The main issue was the timer. The contacts for spin and agitate were so badly scored, the circuit was open. A little sand paper, electrical degreaser, and contact cleaner, causes the timer to work properly FOR NOW.
Here is shot of first wash. Machine is VERY quiet!!
supremewhirlpol
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Neutral drain pause?
I've noticed that this machine does not pause for a neutral drain. Instead, The machine pause, then agitate, then pause, agitate, pause, spin. Transmission does not go to neutral drain, but engages the cam driver. Is this the correct behavior of this machine?
I've noticed that this machine does not pause for a neutral drain. Instead, The machine pause, then agitate, then pause, agitate, pause, spin. Transmission does not go to neutral drain, but engages the cam driver. Is this the correct behavior of this machine?
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