As John said of course it's best to avoid cheap detergents, some cheap powders are overfilled with and or all about soda, soda will form and leave precipitated minerals in the clothes and they will kinda bond with clothing and won't be removed in the rinse, these minerals will then detach while drying because getting dry will make them removable, and they'll fly into the vent and since they're attracted to humidity they will build up....
Some liquid fabric softeners have an acidic component or ingredients in them that will break the bond of these precipitated minerals into clothes and will make them go in the water. They'll help rinse too.
Not the dryer sheets!
In some commercial instances is common the use of "laundry sour" (acids) for this purpose also...and that's why also vinegar makes a good natural fabric softener (also much used by those folks who makes natural/homemade detergents, which infact, are all about soda for the most), but as long as you use a good detergent there shouldn't be problems or need of...
I have a flexible pvc dryer duct for my dryer, and it exit immediately above it (it's 14 feet above the dryer)... I used to have a aluminum one with the old dryers I had, now I am not sure if it was fault of the previous dryers screens, but I have noticed it used to build up more lint than the pvc one I use now with the speed queen....
They suggest the use of fleixible alu for gas dryers for fire hazards (I think it's more due to the heat of the burner that typically runs behind the dryer), but I see and think the PVC one works fine anyway and can't be an hazard actually as it doesn't come in contact with the dryer...
I clean it once a year, just did it this fall...and it was almost clean already....
Now, in case of long hoses inside walls etc, and when built and joined "as they should be" what I think I would use is the leaf blower method....but it's best and due also to use one of those flexible brushes from time to time ...
As John said it's important for air ducts inside cold walls or running underground to be insulated correctly or they will partially condense and attact lint , they of course have to be made of durable smooth materials also....avoid like plague cement or whatever not smooth, I personally think after all PVC plumbing pipes makes a good option for underground as it will not oxidate due to ground humidity like alu or whatever metal not inox would during the time, and I don't really get all the safety matter about plastic inside walls, if there will be ever a fire inside the dryer hose, the metal one will get so hot that will make wood wall catch fire the same way, different matter is if the hose pass through an ignifuge insulation, that's a more important specification they should mention....
post was last edited: 11/16/2014-14:31]
