Transmission Agitator Shaft is Stuck Inside The Gear Case (Transmission Part #6-2097750)

[lucas0830]

Grease

Thanks qsd-dan,I really appreciate all the information you have given me.Can I use this marine grease on the Bearing that sits on the Pulley,or should I use the multi- purpose grease on that Bearing.

 

[qsd-dan]

It can be used in there. In the past when these bearings were still available, it came from the factory with the same exact blue marine grease that I had on the shelf.

 

[lucas0830]

Putting the Washer Back Together

qsd-dan I got the Marine grease for the Splines and the Bearing that sits on the Pulley.

I replaced the Washer Motor Mount Roller's and Spring's.Lubed the rails and the rollers.It made a huge difference,my springs must have been shot.

I took the Damper Base up and lightly wire brushed the Damper Pads and lubricated the pads.

Rust spots are done on the inside and outside the outer tub.Used Rust-oleum Rust Reformer on them.

Going to open the Transmission tomorrow to make sure there is Oil in there.Then seal it back up with a Red Silicone Gasket Maker.

On the new Transmission does any Marine grease go on the part of the shaft that goes into the Brake package,besides the Splines.There is a picture of what I am asking below.

I can't get the 3 new bolts with the rubber washers for the outside tub for 7 to 10 days from the Factory.I can't wait for that long for them to arrive.The rubber washers are the original washers,can I buy new washers at Home Depot.I see these washers fit snug to the bolt,I don't want to remove them if that is going to make them leak with new washers.If that won't work(Can I use that Red High Heat Silicone Gasket Maker around the bolt or will that make it difficult to remove or make it hard to get the socket on the bolt in the future)

One other question,Coldspot 66 shipped me a OEM factory Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit.I know the after market one's get no lubrication at all.They just recommend you run the spin cycle after you are done.

With the factory OEM kit do I do any kind of grease lubrication on the inside threads of the Mounting Stem or threads or grease anything on the new Stem.

For the Rubber Seal I just put a very light coat of laundry detergent on the very bottom of the seal to make it slide on easier.

Does the Factory OEM Rubber Seal inside the Stem get any Lubrication or the Carbon Ring on top of the Boot Seal get any Lubrication.

Do you run the washers spin cycle to seat the Stem and Carbon Ring?

Thanks Jerry

 

[combo52]

It’s looking good and coming back together

Hi Jerry, there’s no reason to replace the rubber washers on the stainless steel outer tub mounting bolts put a tiny bit of sealant on the rubber. If you like that’s not necessary if they’re in good condition.

No lubrication should be put on the carbon ring of the mounting stem and seal assembly, just be sure to put turban oil down on top of the tub bearing when you put the mounting stem assembly in place.

I certainly would not waste my time opening up the transmission. There is no chance there’s no oil in it so just increases the chance of a leak And more work.

It looks like you’ll have this running pretty soon, you should be able to get some more years out of this machine.

John

 

[lucas0830]

Bleach Deflector

Thanks for the help John,I really do appreciate it.

I got the Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit from Coldspot 66 in the mail today.

So I was going to try to finish putting everything back together tomorrow.

I was not sure how to get the Bleach Deflector off of the outside tub,so I left it in place when I did the Rust repairs.I did tape the Bleach Deflector so it did not get Rust Reformer and spray paint all over it.But I did have to spray paint the whole inside and outside of the neck where the bleach hose gets attached to the outside tub.I know a lot of spray paint went inside the Bleach Deflector,is that going to affect the way the Bleach Deflector works when the machine is operating?

I also was not sure if the small piece of shaft that is right below the Splines that goes into the Brake Package,gets greased along with the Splines.Its a new transmission so it's never had any Lubrication on it.

I put a picture of the part of the Transmission where I was not sure if it gets lubricated or not.

Thanks Jerry

 

[combo52]

Rebuilding a dependable Care Maytag

Hi Jerry, everything in your picture gets a light coating of grease both the blinds and the spiral gear case input shaft.

The plastic bleach deflector can be removed by squeezing the tabs and pulling it inward into the outer tub if the outer tub is in bad condition in this area and you want this washer to last a long time I’d be tempted to just plug up the hole and do away with the bleach dispenser using the bleach dispenser can cause a lot of rust corrosion at the point where it enters the tub and also around the top of the machine where the bleach receptacle is.

Bleach is a great product that will not harm a washing machine if it’s used properly on a machine like this, I would always dilute it in a quart bottle and open the lid and add it after agitation has progressed five minutes or more that way you get the bleach effect without any damage to the Machine.

John

John

 

[lucas0830]

Bleach Deflector

Thanks John for information.We always added the bleach right into the tub after the washer started agitating since we had the machine.

Maybe that's why the metal neck for the bleach did not have to much rust or deterioration to it.

So I really did not want to mess with it now since we don't use it,if I don't have to.What my question is since I did get spray Rust Reformer and a Top Coat of spray paint inside the metal neck,I know the Bleach Deflector has the spray paint all over it inside the metal tub hole.

Is that going to affect anything as far as me leaving it just the way it is with the paint on it.Was not sure if the water cycled through the Bleach Deflector and that would cause a issue with the way the washer operates.

Thanks Jerry

 

[lucas0830]

Finished Getting the Maytag Washer Back Together

Good Evening,a couple weeks ago I started having a problem with my old Maytag washer.

I started doing some research on my washer's symptoms on Google and just happen to come across automaticwasher.org.

After joining the group I posted my washers symptoms and feel very fortunate that John(Combo 52) and qsd-dan where there to diagnose my washers issue's and help guide me in the right direction in repairing my washer.

I especially wanted to thank you two guy's for all your help and guidance and anyone else who weighed in on my washer's issue's.I also wanted to thank Coldspot 66 for shipping me a Factory Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit.

I really considered buying a new TC5 Speed Queen,but I really like this old Maytag.So I ended up spending half of what it would cost for the new Speed Queen.And I am glad I did.

Here are the things I ended up doing to the washer.Brand new Transmission,new Washer Tub Bearing,replaced both Belts,Mounting Stem and Boot Seal,Motor Mount Rollers and Spring Kit(greased rails and rollers),Bleach Hose and Clamps.Also lubricated the Damper Pads and greased the Bearing above the Pulley.Fixed the rust spots on the outside tub.

Here are some pictures of the washer being done.

Thanks again,Jerry



[this post was last edited: 11/13/2024-18:44]

 

[combo52]

Great rebuild

Hi Jerry, thanks for all the great pictures and documentation of your quest to save your washing machine.

It should work for a long time yet if you haven't tried to get a spare timer for it yet you should try to get one. That's the thing that will bring down the machine like this Because there are so many different timers and they're hard to find when you need them.

The other things that I might do yet, I would definitely get the Maytag load sensor agitator it's amazing how much more clothing this machine will wash and how much more smoothly it will turn the load over. If you ever get down to the Beltsville area, I will give you an agitator.

The other thing that I would watch out for is a 50 cycle motor pulley and the proper 50 cycle main drive belt that really gets these machines working much better the 15% increase in spin speed and agitation and pump out rate really gets the lead out as they say.

Good luck and I'm glad this is worked out for you, John

 

[repairguy]

Congrats! You did a great job and I doubt you will regret your decision to keep a great old washer working.

 

[good-shepherd]

Did you

put a dab of geese on the springs where they hook into the tub supports?

 

[lucas0830]

Spare Timer

Thanks John,I am going to get that spare Timer.

John send me a picture of the Agitator sometime.

I did forget one picture in the last post,it's the one where I put the Turbine Oil down on top of the Tub Bearing.I did not want you to think I forgot about that.

John I am going to put a post on my Sears Kenmore Dryer that has been sitting for the last 6 yrs.not being used.If you can John give me your opinion on what you think it could be,I would sure like to get it running again.

I don't mind my clothes being hung to dry,but them towels are a little rough.

Thanks Repairguy for kind words.

Jerry