Transmission Agitator Shaft is Stuck Inside The Gear Case (Transmission Part #6-2097750)

[lucas0830]

My Maytag washer was not agitating,but it did work on the spin cycle.

So I unbolted the transmission cover to look inside the transmission.There was no water mixed in with the oil.

The agitator shaft is stuck inside the Torque and Yoke Assembly.(The white plastic piece inside the transmission)

Does anyone know if there is a way to get the stuck agitator shaft out with damaging the shaft or the plastic white piece.

Or am I going to have to look into getting another transmission.

Here are a few pictures of the transmission.

Thanks Jerry

 

[combo52]

Unfortunately

With the condition of the agitator shaft in the critical seal area, you really need to find another transmission. These are still pretty plentiful, owning a vintage washer like owning a vintage car can get expensive, but the parts are out there. But if you wanna do a lasting repair, you really have to do it in a first class manner otherwise the machine will only last months or year so it best if you don’t replace these critical parts.

John

 

[lucas0830]

Replacing The Transmission

Thanks John for steering me in the right direction,I appreciate it.John do you or anybody you know have a transmission available.

I live down by the Phila airport,I would be willing to drive to go get the transmission.

Thanks Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

The upper bearing and shaft have seized up together, making that shaft difficult to remove. I'm used to the older pitman transmission where I could flip the cover over and pound the shaft out from the bottom using a rod when this happens. Either way, you're better off finding a good used transmission unless you want to go through the time and expense of finding a machine shop willing to machine and press in a new upper sleeve bearing and fix the upper shaft.

 

[lucas0830]

Replacing The Transmission qsd-dan

Thanks for information qsd-dan,I really apprecite it.John said the same thing as you,to replace the transmission.With the agitator shaft in poor shape also,I agree with you guys,to just put another transmission in the washer.

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

There's one good used transmission on eBay where the shaft appears to be in great condition. They're asking a price that's very close what these cost brand new, including a stem and boot seal kit, before they went obsolete so they're overpriced by my perspective. There's even an NOS one in the box for $200 which looks like a great deal until you see the $200 shipping price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1267307228...kE/1weqanI5v0Pb4rulP9epVY=|tkp:Bk9SR7CJp7TZZA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3561935302...vgevDpmaHxK2iN8ncMMf2sLQ==|tkp:Bk9SR_K3nLTZZA

 

[lucas0830]

Thanks for the Tip qsd-dan

Thanks for the tip on that transmission qsd-dan.I did end up buying the new transmission off of that link you sent me on e-bay.

I know I probably overpaid,it was $200 for the Transmission,$130(UPS Ground) for the shipping,and $19 tax.So the transmission ended up costing $349.

Do you know if the transmission has oil in it already?If it does, do I have to change the oil since it's been sitting for over 30 yrs.Or is it fine since the transmission has not been used yet?

Is the transmission suppose to come with a Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit?

Should I change the Ball Bearing,Radial above the brake package (part #Y200720)since I did have a water leak down the shaft,before I put the new transmission in.

Jerry

 

[combo52]

Yay, a new transmission

The transmission should come with the mounting stem and seal kit, I would not change the oil in a new transmission. It should not have deteriorated. They do not use detergent oils in washer transmissions they don’t tend to deteriorate from just sitting. It does come filled with oil yes.

I would say you got a good Price on that transmission, almost any new washer today it would cost $300 or more for a transmission let alone vintage machine.

Examine the radial bearing if it has any sign of roughness when turning or noise noise replace it it’s likely that it survived. I’ve hardly ever seen a bad one. It’s not gonna wear out from you in the future. Also check the upper tub bearing clean it thoroughly make sure there’s no scoring or damage there.

Check the outer tub carefully for rust sand any bad areas and seal with something like poor 15, rust was unfortunately a problem on these later Maytag dependable care washers other than that you should be good to go for quite a few years since you’re investing in the washer, I would try to find a new timer and hold onto that that’s what tends to kill them and of course, make sure the damper pads are glued in place and lubricate them and you should be good to go for quite a few years.

John

 

[qsd-dan]

Wow, you're dedicated to that washer. I say it's a great move, there's no washer made today with this quality and durability along with flexibility. Speed Queen TC5003 has a decent build quality but very inflexible as far as cycles go. Control boards these days just don't hold up to a good mechanical timer of yesteryear.

I have heard of a couple rare incidences where a few orbital transmissions were installed at the factory without oil but surprisingly ran for years that way. One of those stories came from a Maytag dealer I chatted with who's store donated a Maytag washer to a local university. A few years later they got a call that the machine quit. After some diag time, the transmission was cracked open and didn't have one drop of oil in it.

I'd pop the cover just to make sure it's full of oil and the oil looks good. It doesn't cost more than a little time and some RTV. Better safe than sorry.

The transmission should come with a stem boot and seal kit. Use that one, not that aftermarket junk.

The radial bearing should be fine. It's replaced by removing the brake package from underneath the machine, not from the top. When the radial bearing goes bad, the machine rumbles like an express train. That bearing is a very common one used in automotive axles and other applications. It's cheap and easy to come by, don't spend big $$ getting one from Whirlcharge...it comes from China, anyways. Use a good Japanese bearing.

This is what a radial bearing sounds like when it's on its way out:



Since you have gone to this far into the machine, be sure to lube the damper pads. That's the next item that takes out these washers and the aluminum damper is obsolete. Also check around the outer tub for rust and treat it now before it gets worse.

 

[lucas0830]

Thanks John and qsd-dan for All The Information

I got the Transmission today,there was no OEM Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit with it.

I sent the seller a message asking him to mail me the Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit.Waiting for them to get back to me.

Not feeling good about installing that after market Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit on a new transmission.Read the reviews from Amazon,a lot of people had problems with the aftermarket one's leaking.

Just want to make sure I cover everything when I am putting this transmission back.Here is the list.

1)Motor Glides and Springs
2)Lube Damper Pads
3)Belts I have are Only a Couple Months Old
4)Open the New Transmission and Make Sure There is Oil in There.
5)Close the Transmission back up with a Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.(let it dry for 24 hrs.before using)
6)Should I Oil the Transmission Shaft That Goes Into the Damper Base?
7)Should I Oil the Gear in the Damper Base Where the Transmission goes into.
8)Do Lube the Top part of the Steel Agitator so it's easier for the Plastic Agitator to Come Off in The Future.?(What Kind of Lube)
9)Lube the Brake Rotor Bearing.(All I Have is Multipurpose Black Grease.Will That Work)?
10)I fixed any rust spots on the inside and outside of the outer drum.
11)Put a Little Supco Turbine Oil at the top of the sleeve before you install the Mounting Stem and Boot Seal.

I was not going to remove the Brake assembly and check the Radial Ball Bearing.I watched that video you sent me qsd-dan and never had any of that noise coming from my washer before,so I am thinking the Radial Ball Bearing is alright.

If the Seller does not ship me Mounting Stem and Boot Seal,does anyone know where I can buy a OEM (part #6-2095720)
Mounting Stem and Boot Seal.

One other question,I seen people put the sleeve on the transmission shaft dry.And I have also seen people put a little turbine oil on the transmission shaft where the sleeve goes.Which one is the correct way?

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

"Should I oil the Gear in the Damper Base Where the Transmission goes into?"

The splines that fit inside the brake package? Use grease there, no oil. Also grease the helical shaft splines, not too much though.

"Do I Lube the Top part of the Steel Agitator so it's easier for the Plastic Agitator to Come Off in The Future.?(What Kind of Lube)"

Use a thin coat of Vaseline in the agitator shaft.

"Lube the Brake Rotor Bearing.(All I Have is Multipurpose Black Grease. Will That Work)?"

That should work but try to get all of the original grease out of the bearing first. Different greases don't mix, causing them to repel each other and starve the bearing(s).

 

[coldspot66]

I have an OEM stem & seal kit, if needed.

 

[lucas0830]

OEM Stem and Seal Kit

Thanks Coldspot 66,I am interested in the kit.Let me give the seller from Ebay that I got the new transmission from a day to get back to me.I asked them to ship the Stem and Seal Kit to me.Hopefully they will respond,and let me know what's going on.

I am sending you a e-mail,Thanks again.

Jerry

 

[lucas0830]

Grease For The Helical Shaft Splines

Thank you qsd-dan,for the information.Can you tell me what kind of grease is recommended for the Helical Shaft Splines on the Transmission and Splines inside the brake package?

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

"Can you tell me what kind of grease is recommended for the Helical Shaft Splines on the Transmission and Splines inside the brake package?"

The thickest stuff you have on hand. It helps prevent a knocking sound with each backstroke of the agitator, especially if the splines of the aluminum brake package are getting worn. The faster agitation of the orbital transmission will do that over many years or from hard use due to overloading. Make sure the transmission is firmly seated down in brake package splines.

 

[lucas0830]

Grease for the Helical Shaft Splines

qsd-dan the grease I have is Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease,it's a clear grease.Will that work for the Helical Shaft Splines?

Should I clean the old grease out of the Splines inside the brake package,before I apply the new grease?

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

Yeah, that should be fine, I prefer to use thicker stuff. Be sure to clean the old grease off the agitator and brake splines. Different greases don't mix.

 

[lucas0830]

Grease

What kind do you recommend qsd-dan,I can get it.This stuff I got don't look that thick.The tube say's it is Grade 2.

Thanks,Jerry
[this post was last edited: 11/4/2024-15:23]

 

[qsd-dan]

Marine grease used for wheels bearings of boat trailers.

 

[lucas0830]

Grease

Thanks qsd-dan,I really appreciate all the information you have given me.Can I use this marine grease on the Bearing that sits on the Pulley,or should I use the multi- purpose grease on that Bearing.

 

[qsd-dan]

It can be used in there. In the past when these bearings were still available, it came from the factory with the same exact blue marine grease that I had on the shelf.

 

[lucas0830]

Putting the Washer Back Together

qsd-dan I got the Marine grease for the Splines and the Bearing that sits on the Pulley.

I replaced the Washer Motor Mount Roller's and Spring's.Lubed the rails and the rollers.It made a huge difference,my springs must have been shot.

I took the Damper Base up and lightly wire brushed the Damper Pads and lubricated the pads.

Rust spots are done on the inside and outside the outer tub.Used Rust-oleum Rust Reformer on them.

Going to open the Transmission tomorrow to make sure there is Oil in there.Then seal it back up with a Red Silicone Gasket Maker.

On the new Transmission does any Marine grease go on the part of the shaft that goes into the Brake package,besides the Splines.There is a picture of what I am asking below.

I can't get the 3 new bolts with the rubber washers for the outside tub for 7 to 10 days from the Factory.I can't wait for that long for them to arrive.The rubber washers are the original washers,can I buy new washers at Home Depot.I see these washers fit snug to the bolt,I don't want to remove them if that is going to make them leak with new washers.If that won't work(Can I use that Red High Heat Silicone Gasket Maker around the bolt or will that make it difficult to remove or make it hard to get the socket on the bolt in the future)

One other question,Coldspot 66 shipped me a OEM factory Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit.I know the after market one's get no lubrication at all.They just recommend you run the spin cycle after you are done.

With the factory OEM kit do I do any kind of grease lubrication on the inside threads of the Mounting Stem or threads or grease anything on the new Stem.

For the Rubber Seal I just put a very light coat of laundry detergent on the very bottom of the seal to make it slide on easier.

Does the Factory OEM Rubber Seal inside the Stem get any Lubrication or the Carbon Ring on top of the Boot Seal get any Lubrication.

Do you run the washers spin cycle to seat the Stem and Carbon Ring?

Thanks Jerry

 

[combo52]

It’s looking good and coming back together

Hi Jerry, there’s no reason to replace the rubber washers on the stainless steel outer tub mounting bolts put a tiny bit of sealant on the rubber. If you like that’s not necessary if they’re in good condition.

No lubrication should be put on the carbon ring of the mounting stem and seal assembly, just be sure to put turban oil down on top of the tub bearing when you put the mounting stem assembly in place.

I certainly would not waste my time opening up the transmission. There is no chance there’s no oil in it so just increases the chance of a leak And more work.

It looks like you’ll have this running pretty soon, you should be able to get some more years out of this machine.

John

 

[lucas0830]

Bleach Deflector

Thanks for the help John,I really do appreciate it.

I got the Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit from Coldspot 66 in the mail today.

So I was going to try to finish putting everything back together tomorrow.

I was not sure how to get the Bleach Deflector off of the outside tub,so I left it in place when I did the Rust repairs.I did tape the Bleach Deflector so it did not get Rust Reformer and spray paint all over it.But I did have to spray paint the whole inside and outside of the neck where the bleach hose gets attached to the outside tub.I know a lot of spray paint went inside the Bleach Deflector,is that going to affect the way the Bleach Deflector works when the machine is operating?

I also was not sure if the small piece of shaft that is right below the Splines that goes into the Brake Package,gets greased along with the Splines.Its a new transmission so it's never had any Lubrication on it.

I put a picture of the part of the Transmission where I was not sure if it gets lubricated or not.

Thanks Jerry

 

[combo52]

Rebuilding a dependable Care Maytag

Hi Jerry, everything in your picture gets a light coating of grease both the blinds and the spiral gear case input shaft.

The plastic bleach deflector can be removed by squeezing the tabs and pulling it inward into the outer tub if the outer tub is in bad condition in this area and you want this washer to last a long time I’d be tempted to just plug up the hole and do away with the bleach dispenser using the bleach dispenser can cause a lot of rust corrosion at the point where it enters the tub and also around the top of the machine where the bleach receptacle is.

Bleach is a great product that will not harm a washing machine if it’s used properly on a machine like this, I would always dilute it in a quart bottle and open the lid and add it after agitation has progressed five minutes or more that way you get the bleach effect without any damage to the Machine.

John

John

 

[lucas0830]

Bleach Deflector

Thanks John for information.We always added the bleach right into the tub after the washer started agitating since we had the machine.

Maybe that's why the metal neck for the bleach did not have to much rust or deterioration to it.

So I really did not want to mess with it now since we don't use it,if I don't have to.What my question is since I did get spray Rust Reformer and a Top Coat of spray paint inside the metal neck,I know the Bleach Deflector has the spray paint all over it inside the metal tub hole.

Is that going to affect anything as far as me leaving it just the way it is with the paint on it.Was not sure if the water cycled through the Bleach Deflector and that would cause a issue with the way the washer operates.

Thanks Jerry

 

[lucas0830]

Finished Getting the Maytag Washer Back Together

Good Evening,a couple weeks ago I started having a problem with my old Maytag washer.

I started doing some research on my washer's symptoms on Google and just happen to come across automaticwasher.org.

After joining the group I posted my washers symptoms and feel very fortunate that John(Combo 52) and qsd-dan where there to diagnose my washers issue's and help guide me in the right direction in repairing my washer.

I especially wanted to thank you two guy's for all your help and guidance and anyone else who weighed in on my washer's issue's.I also wanted to thank Coldspot 66 for shipping me a Factory Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit.

I really considered buying a new TC5 Speed Queen,but I really like this old Maytag.So I ended up spending half of what it would cost for the new Speed Queen.And I am glad I did.

Here are the things I ended up doing to the washer.Brand new Transmission,new Washer Tub Bearing,replaced both Belts,Mounting Stem and Boot Seal,Motor Mount Rollers and Spring Kit(greased rails and rollers),Bleach Hose and Clamps.Also lubricated the Damper Pads and greased the Bearing above the Pulley.Fixed the rust spots on the outside tub.

Here are some pictures of the washer being done.

Thanks again,Jerry



[this post was last edited: 11/13/2024-18:44]

 

[combo52]

Great rebuild

Hi Jerry, thanks for all the great pictures and documentation of your quest to save your washing machine.

It should work for a long time yet if you haven't tried to get a spare timer for it yet you should try to get one. That's the thing that will bring down the machine like this Because there are so many different timers and they're hard to find when you need them.

The other things that I might do yet, I would definitely get the Maytag load sensor agitator it's amazing how much more clothing this machine will wash and how much more smoothly it will turn the load over. If you ever get down to the Beltsville area, I will give you an agitator.

The other thing that I would watch out for is a 50 cycle motor pulley and the proper 50 cycle main drive belt that really gets these machines working much better the 15% increase in spin speed and agitation and pump out rate really gets the lead out as they say.

Good luck and I'm glad this is worked out for you, John

 

[repairguy]

Congrats! You did a great job and I doubt you will regret your decision to keep a great old washer working.

 

[good-shepherd]

Did you

put a dab of geese on the springs where they hook into the tub supports?