brianl
Well-known member
According to the link I posted above, that part number had 25 in it. Maybe that is the same part # for some other product that uses that many?
Trying to identify an older Whirlpool washer
- Thread starter brianl
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launderess
Well-known member
brianl
Well-known member
Thank you so much!!
Definitely very helpful. I noticed them mention glue a lot in sealing gaskets and the bolts. Is this a glue that can be picked up in the hardware store??
Definitely very helpful. I noticed them mention glue a lot in sealing gaskets and the bolts. Is this a glue that can be picked up in the hardware store??
launderess
Well-known member
Gordon and or others will surely chime in on the subject of using "glue".
Robert like others one has read used a silicone "plumber's glue/sealant" when doing the gasket tub repair, offered the same to the repairman fixing my Whirlpool unit, and he said *NO*, and that was that.
Unlike the MMM sealant/glue, silicone plumber's grease does not have to set or dry. One applies the stuff (it tis rather messy and am here to tell you hard to get off one's fingers), to the part in question and gets on with things.
http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=2914062
Robert like others one has read used a silicone "plumber's glue/sealant" when doing the gasket tub repair, offered the same to the repairman fixing my Whirlpool unit, and he said *NO*, and that was that.
Unlike the MMM sealant/glue, silicone plumber's grease does not have to set or dry. One applies the stuff (it tis rather messy and am here to tell you hard to get off one's fingers), to the part in question and gets on with things.
http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=2914062
I would never use a 'glue', but I do use a 3M sealant that is supplied by my parts house and is intended for light industrial needs/appliances, etc.
This stuff is red. It fills gaps, peaks and valleys left in parts when new seals are applied to old parts. Wear and tear and rust residue, etc. can cause old tub parts not to seal as well to new neoprene seals, especially as well as they did when the tub was new. Adding this sealant fills the gaps and makes a much better seal. I like it because it sticks well, yet can be peeled off later. My mentor used this, and I never questioned his choice, nor have I ever used anything else. I've completely used up about 5 tubes of the stuff over the years on close to 70 machines. I suspect it is in stock at most or many parts places. I recommeded that RevvinKevin in Long Beach get some and he found it at his parts place too.
There was a 10-year hiatus in my repair work, until I found AW.org and got re-energized, and believe it or not, my 10 year old "tube of goo" was fine and I finished it off this past summer. Pretty good stuff....My dad has used the same to close cracks in a couple frozen bird baths after a surprise freeze and it's lasted for years. I also use it to cover up rust-spots in tubs and centerposts (vs. using Rust-Oleum).
As to the parts in the tub repair kit - there are only enough parts for one machine - four bolts, four washers and four rubber gaskets/seals. Some parts from Whirlpool come 'bulk-packed' and there are probably 25 kits in a box from the factory. The reason the kit has new bolts dawned on me today while reading this...the original bolts have a raised pattern underneath to "grab" onto the original rubber washer. When installed, the new bolts match up to the steel washer, so they need to be perfectly flat. The original bolts are wrench or socket driven, whereas the repair kit bolts are either flat-blade or phillips head, and take longer to install (this is why, L, that your service guy didn't want to use them).
G
This stuff is red. It fills gaps, peaks and valleys left in parts when new seals are applied to old parts. Wear and tear and rust residue, etc. can cause old tub parts not to seal as well to new neoprene seals, especially as well as they did when the tub was new. Adding this sealant fills the gaps and makes a much better seal. I like it because it sticks well, yet can be peeled off later. My mentor used this, and I never questioned his choice, nor have I ever used anything else. I've completely used up about 5 tubes of the stuff over the years on close to 70 machines. I suspect it is in stock at most or many parts places. I recommeded that RevvinKevin in Long Beach get some and he found it at his parts place too.
There was a 10-year hiatus in my repair work, until I found AW.org and got re-energized, and believe it or not, my 10 year old "tube of goo" was fine and I finished it off this past summer. Pretty good stuff....My dad has used the same to close cracks in a couple frozen bird baths after a surprise freeze and it's lasted for years. I also use it to cover up rust-spots in tubs and centerposts (vs. using Rust-Oleum).
As to the parts in the tub repair kit - there are only enough parts for one machine - four bolts, four washers and four rubber gaskets/seals. Some parts from Whirlpool come 'bulk-packed' and there are probably 25 kits in a box from the factory. The reason the kit has new bolts dawned on me today while reading this...the original bolts have a raised pattern underneath to "grab" onto the original rubber washer. When installed, the new bolts match up to the steel washer, so they need to be perfectly flat. The original bolts are wrench or socket driven, whereas the repair kit bolts are either flat-blade or phillips head, and take longer to install (this is why, L, that your service guy didn't want to use them).
G
brianl
Well-known member
I will have to order these parts today, and I think I am going to get a replacement spanner nut and the spanner nut wrench. Gotta get the 3M stuff at Lowes too. I have my all made, I just have to see if Partstore.com or Sears Parts Direct ultimately is the better deal. They both have all the items I need, but some parts were cheaper on one site and some cheaper on the other site. I am anxious to get this thing apart and fixed hopefully before the holiday is upon us. Sort of like a Christmas present to myself.
Brian
Brian
launderess
Well-known member
When Ordering Via Web or Phone
Don't just compare parts prices, but shipping charges as well.
Some parts places charge something like $8 for shipping one part, then another $5 or so for each item included in the same order. Sears, though pricey on parts does a bit better, IMHO on shipping as one supposes they get a better deal from UPS.
L.
Don't just compare parts prices, but shipping charges as well.
Some parts places charge something like $8 for shipping one part, then another $5 or so for each item included in the same order. Sears, though pricey on parts does a bit better, IMHO on shipping as one supposes they get a better deal from UPS.
L.
I've found PartsTap.com to have better prices on many items than most other sources, and their shipping is very reasonable. My last order of nine items, including a lid, shipped (in multiple packages) for only $6.50.
launderess
Well-known member
Wow!
Nineteen dollars for the tub seal kit? I gave $7.50 for mine.
Nineteen dollars for the tub seal kit? I gave $7.50 for mine.
Brian -
I would suggest that if you have any parts distributors in your area, that instead of using an internet company, start working on a relationship with the counter staff at the parts house. Before long, if you're nice and they're a decent store, they will discount your parts, maybe even to wholesale, and you'll save money over the sites, especially considering shipping.
I have found these relationships to be invaluable.
Gordon
I would suggest that if you have any parts distributors in your area, that instead of using an internet company, start working on a relationship with the counter staff at the parts house. Before long, if you're nice and they're a decent store, they will discount your parts, maybe even to wholesale, and you'll save money over the sites, especially considering shipping.
I have found these relationships to be invaluable.
Gordon
brianl
Well-known member
Will do next time for sure
I tried looking for a local distributer, but not sure what to look for. I used Appliance Parts Pros to start and everything was better priced for the most part then Sears and some of the other online retailers. I did not order the tub repair kit @ $18.50 when Gemline has them for $3. I would like to get to know a local distributer so I can actually get stuff same day and have the relationship you were talking about. Partstap.com seems to have very similar pricing to Parts Pro's give or take a few cents.
I tried looking for a local distributer, but not sure what to look for. I used Appliance Parts Pros to start and everything was better priced for the most part then Sears and some of the other online retailers. I did not order the tub repair kit @ $18.50 when Gemline has them for $3. I would like to get to know a local distributer so I can actually get stuff same day and have the relationship you were talking about. Partstap.com seems to have very similar pricing to Parts Pro's give or take a few cents.
Yeah, well. RepairClinic lists $28. As is always prudent, shop multiple sources.
brianl
Well-known member
Got an idea
You know, if I didn't know any better, seeing a picture of the bolts and washers on appliancepartspros.com, they look like something I could get at a Lowes or whatnot. Once I get the machine apart, I could probably take the bolts there now for reference, and get matching rubber and metal washers for it with new bolts.
You know, if I didn't know any better, seeing a picture of the bolts and washers on appliancepartspros.com, they look like something I could get at a Lowes or whatnot. Once I get the machine apart, I could probably take the bolts there now for reference, and get matching rubber and metal washers for it with new bolts.
brianl
Well-known member
Had some better luck this round
I found the exact same Whirlpool belt-drive that I had picked up from that seller in NY much closer in Dover, NJ. It's in a lot better condition and was recently serviced. Seems to work very good. Will be posting pics soon today. Since the one that was left out for frozen is quite beat up, I think it may become a parts machine rather than screwing around with it. I would like to give props to MisterEric who has made it possible to get the washer home to me and has been quite helpful in the present and will be in the future plumbing up the washers properly and neatly.
Anyways the model number of it is LA7680XKW2 and the frozen one was LA7680XMW0. What was the difference in the last 4 characters of the model numbers? They look like virtually the same washer. Also anybody have pdf's of service and/or user's manuals that I can use or paper ones to sell?
Thanks,
Brian
I found the exact same Whirlpool belt-drive that I had picked up from that seller in NY much closer in Dover, NJ. It's in a lot better condition and was recently serviced. Seems to work very good. Will be posting pics soon today. Since the one that was left out for frozen is quite beat up, I think it may become a parts machine rather than screwing around with it. I would like to give props to MisterEric who has made it possible to get the washer home to me and has been quite helpful in the present and will be in the future plumbing up the washers properly and neatly.
Anyways the model number of it is LA7680XKW2 and the frozen one was LA7680XMW0. What was the difference in the last 4 characters of the model numbers? They look like virtually the same washer. Also anybody have pdf's of service and/or user's manuals that I can use or paper ones to sell?
Thanks,
Brian
Brian -
The four letters indicate the year/series, the color, and the mechanical revision. Both machines are white I presume (that's the W). The K series arrived before the M series. Your XMW0 is the first model of that group, whereas the XKW2 is the second revision in it's series. Things that cause revisions to the model number are things like part number changes to the timer, pump, lid coatings, etc. - basically things that don't change the overall model but that necessitate a change in the parts list.
Here's an example in Kenmore form (but they work the same way):
Model
110.82370100 is the entry level 70-series Kenmore that went on the market in fall 1983.
110.82370110 is the first revision which changed lid hinges for those lousy plastic snap-in hinges to the old-fashioned metal parts.
110.82370120 same as the above but had the timer revised from part number 660686 to 381860.
110.82370130 a temporary model made of a -20 but with a porcelain top and lid, which was necessary on a couple models during 1986 when I presume there was a problem with the powder coating process, as this model normally had a powder coated top not porcelain, and the two have different part numbers in Kenmore/Whirlpool's inventory and replacement parts system.
Your machines probably aren't very different mechanically, though the K model MAY have a different lint filter than the M model. There were some changes going on during that time period where a lot of models shifted from various tub or cabinet mounted self-cleaning filters to the under-basket disks that predominated the last couple years. Kenmore and Whirlpool often used different filters until the disks came along. A number of 1981 and 1982 Kenmores started out with plumbed self-cleaning filters and were revised during their longevities to have the baskets mounted filters (which used much less plumbing and parts).
DaDOES knows more about the specific Whirlpool geneology than I do if you want to know even more.
I hope this helps, but CONGRATS on getting a machine that makes you happy! That's great. After all the talk lately about the Double-Duty Surgilator, I am wondering if I should get one going here myself!
Gordon
The four letters indicate the year/series, the color, and the mechanical revision. Both machines are white I presume (that's the W). The K series arrived before the M series. Your XMW0 is the first model of that group, whereas the XKW2 is the second revision in it's series. Things that cause revisions to the model number are things like part number changes to the timer, pump, lid coatings, etc. - basically things that don't change the overall model but that necessitate a change in the parts list.
Here's an example in Kenmore form (but they work the same way):
Model
110.82370100 is the entry level 70-series Kenmore that went on the market in fall 1983.
110.82370110 is the first revision which changed lid hinges for those lousy plastic snap-in hinges to the old-fashioned metal parts.
110.82370120 same as the above but had the timer revised from part number 660686 to 381860.
110.82370130 a temporary model made of a -20 but with a porcelain top and lid, which was necessary on a couple models during 1986 when I presume there was a problem with the powder coating process, as this model normally had a powder coated top not porcelain, and the two have different part numbers in Kenmore/Whirlpool's inventory and replacement parts system.
Your machines probably aren't very different mechanically, though the K model MAY have a different lint filter than the M model. There were some changes going on during that time period where a lot of models shifted from various tub or cabinet mounted self-cleaning filters to the under-basket disks that predominated the last couple years. Kenmore and Whirlpool often used different filters until the disks came along. A number of 1981 and 1982 Kenmores started out with plumbed self-cleaning filters and were revised during their longevities to have the baskets mounted filters (which used much less plumbing and parts).
DaDOES knows more about the specific Whirlpool geneology than I do if you want to know even more.
I hope this helps, but CONGRATS on getting a machine that makes you happy! That's great. After all the talk lately about the Double-Duty Surgilator, I am wondering if I should get one going here myself!
Gordon
brianl
Well-known member
Whirlpool Washing
brianl
Well-known member
Whirlpool Washing & Neutral Drain
brianl
Well-known member
Whirlpool Filling & Rinse Wash
strongenough78
Well-known member
I'm curious..........
Were Whirlpool/Kenmore the only brand that had the neutral drain instead of a spin drain?
Were Whirlpool/Kenmore the only brand that had the neutral drain instead of a spin drain?
brianl
Well-known member
From what I understand
They were the only ones that had this feature.
They were the only ones that had this feature.
autowasherfreak
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Great videos, love the sounds of a Whirlpool belt drive.
brianl
Well-known member
Question about the revisions
Does a change in part number necessarily mean a change in the actual part? I did notice some different part numbers for certain parts, but the diagrams look the same. Basically I was going to keep the M one for spare parts should the K one ever need them, specifically for the tranny, motor, console, etc.
Does a change in part number necessarily mean a change in the actual part? I did notice some different part numbers for certain parts, but the diagrams look the same. Basically I was going to keep the M one for spare parts should the K one ever need them, specifically for the tranny, motor, console, etc.
Does a change in part number necessarily mean a change in th
YES, absolutely. Whirlpool doesn't change parts and part numbers unless there is a material difference with them somehow. Very often the new part will sub-over and replace the old part on a one for one basis, but if the part is changed, it usually gets a new part number.
I just consulted my Whirlpool parts catalog (from 1992). The K machine is a 1982 model, and the M a 1984. Since yours is a K2, there is little or no difference with the major parts that are listed in the catalog reference (not every part is listed). The two machines use the same timers, motors, pumps, etc. If you had a K1 or a K0, a different pump was used from the K2 or the M0 (thus a different lint filter too) but you have two the same.
Just for reference, nearly all belt-drive machines use interchangeable transmissions. They were revised over the years for sure, but other than the rare late 60s to 1973 super tall post 18lb. machines, the transmissions interchange. Even more-so for the motors. A current 285222 motor, which is essentially what you have in both your machines, will fit ANY belt drive, 1, 2, or 3 speed. In a 3 speed the extra-slow doesn't work, but at least there is something out there for what would otherwise be an SOL 3-speed machine. I'm digressing...
Brian - Your machine has a lot of common parts. The timer, motor, and pump can still be had new. Keep the 'parts' machine though - you may need a tub (NLA), gearcase, etc. though your transmission sounds great based on your videos.
Gordon
YES, absolutely. Whirlpool doesn't change parts and part numbers unless there is a material difference with them somehow. Very often the new part will sub-over and replace the old part on a one for one basis, but if the part is changed, it usually gets a new part number.
I just consulted my Whirlpool parts catalog (from 1992). The K machine is a 1982 model, and the M a 1984. Since yours is a K2, there is little or no difference with the major parts that are listed in the catalog reference (not every part is listed). The two machines use the same timers, motors, pumps, etc. If you had a K1 or a K0, a different pump was used from the K2 or the M0 (thus a different lint filter too) but you have two the same.
Just for reference, nearly all belt-drive machines use interchangeable transmissions. They were revised over the years for sure, but other than the rare late 60s to 1973 super tall post 18lb. machines, the transmissions interchange. Even more-so for the motors. A current 285222 motor, which is essentially what you have in both your machines, will fit ANY belt drive, 1, 2, or 3 speed. In a 3 speed the extra-slow doesn't work, but at least there is something out there for what would otherwise be an SOL 3-speed machine. I'm digressing...
Brian - Your machine has a lot of common parts. The timer, motor, and pump can still be had new. Keep the 'parts' machine though - you may need a tub (NLA), gearcase, etc. though your transmission sounds great based on your videos.
Gordon
brianl
Well-known member
Thank you for all the information
I was toying around with the thought of repairing the parts machine (M0), with the parts I already ordered and have, but then I begin to wonder if my working machine (K2) needs parts, well it is going to have to get the parts from somewhere down the the road. As weird as it may sound, I guess I sort of have an issue with taking a machine and putting it to death completely if it is repairable and capable of performing its duty again. The "some must die for others to live", as true as it may seem, is hard for me to deal with I guess.
I was toying around with the thought of repairing the parts machine (M0), with the parts I already ordered and have, but then I begin to wonder if my working machine (K2) needs parts, well it is going to have to get the parts from somewhere down the the road. As weird as it may sound, I guess I sort of have an issue with taking a machine and putting it to death completely if it is repairable and capable of performing its duty again. The "some must die for others to live", as true as it may seem, is hard for me to deal with I guess.
I know how that is Brian, all too well....
To be honest, I have never scrapped one machine for another. I have robbed parts off of already scrapped units, but never consigned any of my own to 'death'. I feel bad enough, lol, that those 21 Whirlpool/Kenmores that I put in my storage trailer back in July were my least favorites, and they likely bit the dust because of it when the trailer got robbed for scrap (I presume).
If you want, we can get the M machine up and running. I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability for the K2 washer - it doesn't have anything unusual on it that I can see, and I am sure you can accumulate a collection of replacement parts as they come available on ebay or something, so you so desire. That's actually fun to do.
Don't stress it Brian, we'll get that machine running if you want, when you're ready, then you'll have TWO to play with.
G
To be honest, I have never scrapped one machine for another. I have robbed parts off of already scrapped units, but never consigned any of my own to 'death'. I feel bad enough, lol, that those 21 Whirlpool/Kenmores that I put in my storage trailer back in July were my least favorites, and they likely bit the dust because of it when the trailer got robbed for scrap (I presume).
If you want, we can get the M machine up and running. I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability for the K2 washer - it doesn't have anything unusual on it that I can see, and I am sure you can accumulate a collection of replacement parts as they come available on ebay or something, so you so desire. That's actually fun to do.
Don't stress it Brian, we'll get that machine running if you want, when you're ready, then you'll have TWO to play with.
G
brianl
Well-known member
I think it is leaking from the centerpost gasket as the water is coming out from underneath the outer tub where it sits on the frame. I have that gasket, as well as the tub drain grommet, the seal for the side of the tub for the pressure switch hose, drive block, and spanner nut. Figured while I was in there, I would just replace everything. It look like it took a hit to the top of the console like it banged against the corner of a wall. It does function otherwise, other than the fast leak. I have some pics of the new one I got that I will post.
brianl
Well-known member
MisterEric hard at work cleaning my washer. What, you think I was gonna do it?? 
brianl
Well-known member
Look at that mess! Must be the 27 years of washing this machine went through.
brianl
Well-known member
Lid hinge nastiness.
brianl
Well-known member
Dispenser dirt.
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