brianl
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Tranny pic 1
Trying to identify an older Whirlpool washer
- Thread starter brianl
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brianl
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Tranny pic 2
brianl
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Cycle Dial
brianl
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Information
brianl
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Water temp
brianl
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Got the water leveling to work.
Brian -
Sounds like you need to pull the outer tub out of the machine. It was very common for these to leak from about 10-years old onward. When you pull the tub, you'll need a 383727 centerpost gasket, and a 93553 tub drain grommet. They are both still readily available from Whirlpool, especially 383727 as one goes into every direct drive washer in new production. The 93553 was still current about 6-8 months ago. You should also get either a tub repair kit for the four mounting bolts, 76673, OR four 21365 tub washers (they are PRICEY now).
If you pull the tub and it comes out unscathed, installing those parts will re-seal it for another machine's life-time. I'll take you through the work step by step if you'd like, and I am sure others here can too, but will save the typing for when you're ready. Be advised that the tub has a couple delicate spots that don't age well sometimes, especially around the centerpost area, so handle with care.
Gordon
Sounds like you need to pull the outer tub out of the machine. It was very common for these to leak from about 10-years old onward. When you pull the tub, you'll need a 383727 centerpost gasket, and a 93553 tub drain grommet. They are both still readily available from Whirlpool, especially 383727 as one goes into every direct drive washer in new production. The 93553 was still current about 6-8 months ago. You should also get either a tub repair kit for the four mounting bolts, 76673, OR four 21365 tub washers (they are PRICEY now).
If you pull the tub and it comes out unscathed, installing those parts will re-seal it for another machine's life-time. I'll take you through the work step by step if you'd like, and I am sure others here can too, but will save the typing for when you're ready. Be advised that the tub has a couple delicate spots that don't age well sometimes, especially around the centerpost area, so handle with care.
Gordon
I meant to mention...the rest of the machine looks pretty good. It's not spoiled by centerpost bilge spewing all over everything, which is a nice sign. The clamps on the manifold trap (button or sediment trap they were sometimes called) should be replaced and might even snap when you take pliers to them.
Check the pump when you have a moment - it could be contributing to leakage too. If so, a 285317 pump either an original NOS Whirlpool pump OR a Supco LP115 will work. I dislike aftermarket parts, but I've been trying an LP115 just to satisfy my curiosity and it seems to mimick the function of a true WP part exactly and I would not hesitate to use one if the price and location were right. Whirlpool quit making belt-drive pumps a few years back. The original two and four port pumps are now imported from Brastemp, but since they never used the 285317 type, it went NLA even though it was the most commonly used pump in production the last four or five years.
Gordon
Check the pump when you have a moment - it could be contributing to leakage too. If so, a 285317 pump either an original NOS Whirlpool pump OR a Supco LP115 will work. I dislike aftermarket parts, but I've been trying an LP115 just to satisfy my curiosity and it seems to mimick the function of a true WP part exactly and I would not hesitate to use one if the price and location were right. Whirlpool quit making belt-drive pumps a few years back. The original two and four port pumps are now imported from Brastemp, but since they never used the 285317 type, it went NLA even though it was the most commonly used pump in production the last four or five years.
Gordon
brianl
Well-known member
Thanks for all the info. I did have a question though. When you said "You should also get either a tub repair kit for the four mounting bolts, 76673, OR four 21365 tub washers..." why either or and not both?
I found how to open the lid to access everything, but not to sure where to take it apart to get the outer tub off. I noticed it does not do the waterfall spray. It does more of a jet spray to the right and a slight rainfall to the left.
Any information on the pulling of the machine apart that you can give me Gordon would be greatly appreciated and I will get those parts ordered right away.
Thanks,
Brian
I found how to open the lid to access everything, but not to sure where to take it apart to get the outer tub off. I noticed it does not do the waterfall spray. It does more of a jet spray to the right and a slight rainfall to the left.
Any information on the pulling of the machine apart that you can give me Gordon would be greatly appreciated and I will get those parts ordered right away.
Thanks,
Brian
brianl
Well-known member
Model Information
Here is some other info I forgot to post before:
Model #: LA7680XMWO
Serial #: C33505197
Has the double-duty all-white agitator with the wings on the bottom.
Here is some other info I forgot to post before:
Model #: LA7680XMWO
Serial #: C33505197
Has the double-duty all-white agitator with the wings on the bottom.
brianl
Well-known member
Correction!
Those are both number 0's in the model #, not the letter O like I put on the end.
Those are both number 0's in the model #, not the letter O like I put on the end.
supremewhirlpol
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Well, since you are going to have to get close and personal with this machine, you can start with popping the top of the machine. Use a putty knife and push in the clips that hold the top of the machine to the cabinet. The clips are located on the ends in front of the machine between the top and the cabinet.
supremewhirlpol
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- Mar 25, 2009
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Once you have done that, place tape on the top and the lid to keep the lid from opening. Lift the top and observe the wires coming from the cabinet and going into the console on the right back corner. The wires have a quick disconnect on the end. Use a flat blade screw driver and gently push in the clip holder and pull the connector out. Next use a socket to remove the ground wire. After that locate the pressure switch hose that goes from the console to the side of the metal outer tub. Gently remove the hose from the plastic extender on the outer drum. After that pull up and slide the top off the metal guides which are located on the back of the cabinet.
brianl
Well-known member
Should I get these parts directly from Whirlpool, or does anyone trust those other sites like PartsSelect.com and such? Or are these site just middle-men getting the parts right from Whirlpool anyway?
brianl
Well-known member
What's everyone thoughts on using 3rd party parts? I agree with Gordon on using Whirlpool parts when possible, but do you think it would matter on such smaller items like these tub washers. I only ask because the price is a $2 difference per washer and I want to do it right, but I don't know if it is necessary to go genuine all the time to do so.
Brian
Brian
If At All Possible Try for Whirlpool/FSP Parts
But look at various sources as prices vary. Sears PartsDirect probably will have much if not most of what you need, but they do tend to be rather on the high side. Whirlpool stops selling parts for it's appliances about ten or so years after the unit ceases production. However in many, many cases parts from one series/model of machine were/are still used in others, so the part will live on, however it may have subbed to a different part number.
PartsSelect and the rest are often "middlemen" but then again so are most other appliance parts sources. Places that have been in business for ages such as physical brick appliance repair/parts shops by virtue of aged inventory have parts that are NLA from Whirlpool. One can put Sears Parts Direct in that section. As stated before, once Whirlpool stops making/selling a part (NLA), you are going to have to hunt them down from someone with old inventory. IIRC, from the last time one spoke with a *real* Whirlpool tech over the telephone at the customer service number, once parts are due to be "NLAed", Whirlpool sells them off to suppliers/vendors. Clearing their shelves as you will.
First go to Whirlpool's website and see if the schematic and parts listing are still available. If not "Google" "sharedWhirlpool.com" as that is how one found ours.
After having part numbers in question, my advice is to punch them into Google and see what comes up. Different vendors often have various prices so you can shop and compare. Also try places like "Armstrong Obsolete Parts", as well.
If you need a new pump, have one FSP NIB unit, but not sure if it is for your unit.
But look at various sources as prices vary. Sears PartsDirect probably will have much if not most of what you need, but they do tend to be rather on the high side. Whirlpool stops selling parts for it's appliances about ten or so years after the unit ceases production. However in many, many cases parts from one series/model of machine were/are still used in others, so the part will live on, however it may have subbed to a different part number.
PartsSelect and the rest are often "middlemen" but then again so are most other appliance parts sources. Places that have been in business for ages such as physical brick appliance repair/parts shops by virtue of aged inventory have parts that are NLA from Whirlpool. One can put Sears Parts Direct in that section. As stated before, once Whirlpool stops making/selling a part (NLA), you are going to have to hunt them down from someone with old inventory. IIRC, from the last time one spoke with a *real* Whirlpool tech over the telephone at the customer service number, once parts are due to be "NLAed", Whirlpool sells them off to suppliers/vendors. Clearing their shelves as you will.
First go to Whirlpool's website and see if the schematic and parts listing are still available. If not "Google" "sharedWhirlpool.com" as that is how one found ours.
After having part numbers in question, my advice is to punch them into Google and see what comes up. Different vendors often have various prices so you can shop and compare. Also try places like "Armstrong Obsolete Parts", as well.
If you need a new pump, have one FSP NIB unit, but not sure if it is for your unit.
From One Who Just Went Through This
Had two sets of "tub repair kits"/76673 parts. One was FSP the other something else, and to my eye there wasn't a difference between quality. Then again one did not do the install, but was picky about what one had put into the machines, so gave repairman the "FSP" set and put the other back in my stash.
May sound like "Mrs. Vanderbilt", but two bits isn't that much of a difference, and huge repair bills have come out of failure of a one dollar part.
Had two sets of "tub repair kits"/76673 parts. One was FSP the other something else, and to my eye there wasn't a difference between quality. Then again one did not do the install, but was picky about what one had put into the machines, so gave repairman the "FSP" set and put the other back in my stash.
May sound like "Mrs. Vanderbilt", but two bits isn't that much of a difference, and huge repair bills have come out of failure of a one dollar part.
And Another Piece of Advice
Don't just order the tub gasket and repair kit/bolts.
You aren't going to know what is going on until you get inside your machine, so might as well have on hand any seals or such that *may* be required. Better to have not needed a part than to find out you do and then the whole process must come to a halt. You may also wish to replace any hose clamps with "C" clamps.
Water leaking from a washer's tub can cause all sorts of problems, much of which you won't know until she's opened up.
L.
Don't just order the tub gasket and repair kit/bolts.
You aren't going to know what is going on until you get inside your machine, so might as well have on hand any seals or such that *may* be required. Better to have not needed a part than to find out you do and then the whole process must come to a halt. You may also wish to replace any hose clamps with "C" clamps.
Water leaking from a washer's tub can cause all sorts of problems, much of which you won't know until she's opened up.
L.
Brian -
The 76673 tub repair kit and the 21365 washers are either/or parts. The repair kit installs in the same place that the 21365 rubber washer does, however the kit is designed to cover a much larger area and to elminate rusty holes near the orignal 21365 washers. You only need one repair kit, and considering the price now for the 21365s, I'd just get a kit and use that.
As to where to get them - there are only a few aftermarket sources of parts, Gemline (now SUPCO), EXACT Fit, RobertShaw (I think now a defunct line), maybe a couple others. FSP is Whirlpool's name for their parts, like Motorcraft is for Ford, Mopar for Chrysler, etc. There are LOTS of FSP distributors out there, so if you find a seller with FSP parts that you like, take your pick. Sears is a good place to get stuff as Laundress said, mostly for their convenience but they can be expensive. They probably have a parts diagram online for your machine.
For your machine, definitely get a 383727, a 93553, and a 76673. The only other seals you could need are spin tube (bearing) and agitator shaft seals, and unless they are really gross when you get in there (I doubt they are based on the look of the goods underneath the baseplate), I'd not bother with them yet. In fact, I wouldn't touch anything underneath until you have the leak fixed, if you are already satisfied with the machine's mechanical operation. To change the bearing-spin tube seals you will need to pull the upper spin bearing, and that's a beetch of a job for a beginner.
Let me know when you have the parts!
Gordon
The 76673 tub repair kit and the 21365 washers are either/or parts. The repair kit installs in the same place that the 21365 rubber washer does, however the kit is designed to cover a much larger area and to elminate rusty holes near the orignal 21365 washers. You only need one repair kit, and considering the price now for the 21365s, I'd just get a kit and use that.
As to where to get them - there are only a few aftermarket sources of parts, Gemline (now SUPCO), EXACT Fit, RobertShaw (I think now a defunct line), maybe a couple others. FSP is Whirlpool's name for their parts, like Motorcraft is for Ford, Mopar for Chrysler, etc. There are LOTS of FSP distributors out there, so if you find a seller with FSP parts that you like, take your pick. Sears is a good place to get stuff as Laundress said, mostly for their convenience but they can be expensive. They probably have a parts diagram online for your machine.
For your machine, definitely get a 383727, a 93553, and a 76673. The only other seals you could need are spin tube (bearing) and agitator shaft seals, and unless they are really gross when you get in there (I doubt they are based on the look of the goods underneath the baseplate), I'd not bother with them yet. In fact, I wouldn't touch anything underneath until you have the leak fixed, if you are already satisfied with the machine's mechanical operation. To change the bearing-spin tube seals you will need to pull the upper spin bearing, and that's a beetch of a job for a beginner.
Let me know when you have the parts!
Gordon
brianl
Well-known member
OK, this may sound dumb but...
In the 1st paragraph, you were mentioning to get the 21365's, but then I see you said to definitely get the 76673. Just want to double-check to be sure which kit I should get. The 76673 kit comes with 25 bolts/washers. Is that true, because I thought there were only like 4 tub bolts? Also I think I should get the 21366 spanner nut? If so, do you know the spanner nut tool part number off-hand?
Brian
In the 1st paragraph, you were mentioning to get the 21365's, but then I see you said to definitely get the 76673. Just want to double-check to be sure which kit I should get. The 76673 kit comes with 25 bolts/washers. Is that true, because I thought there were only like 4 tub bolts? Also I think I should get the 21366 spanner nut? If so, do you know the spanner nut tool part number off-hand?
Brian
