Trying to identify an older Whirlpool washer

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Yes, you probably won't need all the nuts, bolts and rubber seals (we only used three out of the four in our kit), but at least you will have extras. You can keep the spares around for future use or pass them on to someone else who needs them.
Are you sure there are 25? My FSP/Whirlpool tub repair kit only had the four.

*Think* the point Gordon is trying to make is that while the tub repair kit contains bolts, seals, and such, the other only contains the bolts. If you have rust spots and or small holes around where the original bolts now are, you are going to need those large rubber seals to deal with them. Again see Robert's excellent post on the Whirlpool restoration for a visual.

As for the spanner nut wrench, you are going to need it if you don't have one that will fit Whirlpool washers already. Again see Robert's Whirlpool restoration pics for a visual. Using the wrong sized wrench at best will not give you the grip needed to get the thing off, or at worse, you will end up damaging the nut to the point no wrench, even the proper sized one will work.

I'd have some WD-40 or "Liquid Wrench" on had as well. Almost 100% if the time that tub nut is going to be a PITA to get off (they rarely shift easily), and is going to require much banging, clanging, and sheer force to loosen. Only thing to require equal effort will probably be lifting the outer tub.
 
Thank you so much!!

Definitely very helpful. I noticed them mention glue a lot in sealing gaskets and the bolts. Is this a glue that can be picked up in the hardware store??
 
Gordon and or others will surely chime in on the subject of using "glue".

Robert like others one has read used a silicone "plumber's glue/sealant" when doing the gasket tub repair, offered the same to the repairman fixing my Whirlpool unit, and he said *NO*, and that was that.

Unlike the MMM sealant/glue, silicone plumber's grease does not have to set or dry. One applies the stuff (it tis rather messy and am here to tell you hard to get off one's fingers), to the part in question and gets on with things.

 
I would never use a 'glue', but I do use a 3M sealant that is supplied by my parts house and is intended for light industrial needs/appliances, etc.

This stuff is red. It fills gaps, peaks and valleys left in parts when new seals are applied to old parts. Wear and tear and rust residue, etc. can cause old tub parts not to seal as well to new neoprene seals, especially as well as they did when the tub was new. Adding this sealant fills the gaps and makes a much better seal. I like it because it sticks well, yet can be peeled off later. My mentor used this, and I never questioned his choice, nor have I ever used anything else. I've completely used up about 5 tubes of the stuff over the years on close to 70 machines. I suspect it is in stock at most or many parts places. I recommeded that RevvinKevin in Long Beach get some and he found it at his parts place too.

There was a 10-year hiatus in my repair work, until I found AW.org and got re-energized, and believe it or not, my 10 year old "tube of goo" was fine and I finished it off this past summer. Pretty good stuff....My dad has used the same to close cracks in a couple frozen bird baths after a surprise freeze and it's lasted for years. I also use it to cover up rust-spots in tubs and centerposts (vs. using Rust-Oleum).

As to the parts in the tub repair kit - there are only enough parts for one machine - four bolts, four washers and four rubber gaskets/seals. Some parts from Whirlpool come 'bulk-packed' and there are probably 25 kits in a box from the factory. The reason the kit has new bolts dawned on me today while reading this...the original bolts have a raised pattern underneath to "grab" onto the original rubber washer. When installed, the new bolts match up to the steel washer, so they need to be perfectly flat. The original bolts are wrench or socket driven, whereas the repair kit bolts are either flat-blade or phillips head, and take longer to install (this is why, L, that your service guy didn't want to use them).

G
 
I will have to order these parts today, and I think I am going to get a replacement spanner nut and the spanner nut wrench. Gotta get the 3M stuff at Lowes too. I have my all made, I just have to see if Partstore.com or Sears Parts Direct ultimately is the better deal. They both have all the items I need, but some parts were cheaper on one site and some cheaper on the other site. I am anxious to get this thing apart and fixed hopefully before the holiday is upon us. Sort of like a Christmas present to myself.

Brian
 
When Ordering Via Web or Phone

Don't just compare parts prices, but shipping charges as well.

Some parts places charge something like $8 for shipping one part, then another $5 or so for each item included in the same order. Sears, though pricey on parts does a bit better, IMHO on shipping as one supposes they get a better deal from UPS.

L.
 
 
I've found PartsTap.com to have better prices on many items than most other sources, and their shipping is very reasonable. My last order of nine items, including a lid, shipped (in multiple packages) for only $6.50.
 
Brian -

I would suggest that if you have any parts distributors in your area, that instead of using an internet company, start working on a relationship with the counter staff at the parts house. Before long, if you're nice and they're a decent store, they will discount your parts, maybe even to wholesale, and you'll save money over the sites, especially considering shipping.

I have found these relationships to be invaluable.

Gordon
 
Will do next time for sure

I tried looking for a local distributer, but not sure what to look for. I used Appliance Parts Pros to start and everything was better priced for the most part then Sears and some of the other online retailers. I did not order the tub repair kit @ $18.50 when Gemline has them for $3. I would like to get to know a local distributer so I can actually get stuff same day and have the relationship you were talking about. Partstap.com seems to have very similar pricing to Parts Pro's give or take a few cents.
 
Got an idea

You know, if I didn't know any better, seeing a picture of the bolts and washers on appliancepartspros.com, they look like something I could get at a Lowes or whatnot. Once I get the machine apart, I could probably take the bolts there now for reference, and get matching rubber and metal washers for it with new bolts.
 
Had some better luck this round

I found the exact same Whirlpool belt-drive that I had picked up from that seller in NY much closer in Dover, NJ. It's in a lot better condition and was recently serviced. Seems to work very good. Will be posting pics soon today. Since the one that was left out for frozen is quite beat up, I think it may become a parts machine rather than screwing around with it. I would like to give props to MisterEric who has made it possible to get the washer home to me and has been quite helpful in the present and will be in the future plumbing up the washers properly and neatly.

Anyways the model number of it is LA7680XKW2 and the frozen one was LA7680XMW0. What was the difference in the last 4 characters of the model numbers? They look like virtually the same washer. Also anybody have pdf's of service and/or user's manuals that I can use or paper ones to sell?

Thanks,
Brian
 
Brian -

The four letters indicate the year/series, the color, and the mechanical revision. Both machines are white I presume (that's the W). The K series arrived before the M series. Your XMW0 is the first model of that group, whereas the XKW2 is the second revision in it's series. Things that cause revisions to the model number are things like part number changes to the timer, pump, lid coatings, etc. - basically things that don't change the overall model but that necessitate a change in the parts list.

Here's an example in Kenmore form (but they work the same way):

Model
110.82370100 is the entry level 70-series Kenmore that went on the market in fall 1983.

110.82370110 is the first revision which changed lid hinges for those lousy plastic snap-in hinges to the old-fashioned metal parts.

110.82370120 same as the above but had the timer revised from part number 660686 to 381860.

110.82370130 a temporary model made of a -20 but with a porcelain top and lid, which was necessary on a couple models during 1986 when I presume there was a problem with the powder coating process, as this model normally had a powder coated top not porcelain, and the two have different part numbers in Kenmore/Whirlpool's inventory and replacement parts system.

Your machines probably aren't very different mechanically, though the K model MAY have a different lint filter than the M model. There were some changes going on during that time period where a lot of models shifted from various tub or cabinet mounted self-cleaning filters to the under-basket disks that predominated the last couple years. Kenmore and Whirlpool often used different filters until the disks came along. A number of 1981 and 1982 Kenmores started out with plumbed self-cleaning filters and were revised during their longevities to have the baskets mounted filters (which used much less plumbing and parts).

DaDOES knows more about the specific Whirlpool geneology than I do if you want to know even more.

I hope this helps, but CONGRATS on getting a machine that makes you happy! That's great. After all the talk lately about the Double-Duty Surgilator, I am wondering if I should get one going here myself!

Gordon
 

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