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Did some more testing this morning - the solenoid and the wiring were the first things I checked and they both looked good.  I had a test procedure for the solenoid in that Tech-Talk covering 1950 to 1959 models so I followed it to the letter and per their test method, the solenoid looks good.  I further tested by running the machine through a simulated cycle with the motor leads disconnected from the solenoid terminals.  The solenoid engaged and stayed powered up through the appropriate phases of the cycle and did not seem to overheat.  

 

I tried leveling the washer a bit better than I had previously - it seemed much more solid (the leveling legs are pretty messed up) but when it went into 'spin', the same 'thunk' was heard, the spin stopped momentarily, then the solenoid engaged again to try to get the machine to spin.   This time, as I tried to spin, though, I was observing the rear of the machine.  As the spin solenoid engaged the mechanism seemed to twist to the right; when it kicked out again, the mechanism twisted left again.  For the additional attempts at spin, the mechanism again swung to the right slightly.  I am not sure what exactly this might mean, but I have an awful feeling there's something loose.  I've not spotted it yet, though... 

 

My other thought is because that solenoid seems to be supplying current to the motor, what if there is a problem with the motor itself that's making the solenoid overheat or temporarily short?   Yes, I know, another one of my theories... LOL   Seriously, I have never seen a solenoid with five terminals before!  Was that unique to Frigidaire or did other manufacturers use something like this?  The idea of a replacement is already spinning in my head, but maybe only around 900 rpm's at the moment... 

 

Phil is on his way down to Ogden this afternoon so perhaps between the two of us, we can figure something out!

 

 
 
Two things -

<ul>
<li>The leveling legs can be replaced with legs from a Big Load Maytag dryer (1976 through the 90's). </li>
<li>Before tearing into the timer and going hog wild with it, try bi-passing the 'Push to Reset' button, and see if you get the same symptoms with spin.  There is a small possibility that it's causing an issue.  Also, you could try isolating the motor by connecting a test cord to the motor leads, and manually tripping the solenoid to see if you can get the motor repeat the same issue.</li>
</ul>
 
As mentioned, Phil came down to Ogden this afternoon to check out the 'new' Frigidaires.  I did a quick demo for him to show him what exactly had been happening.  

 

He spotted the problem immediately...

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The real culprit...

And anyone who grew up with lousy wiring like I did should be ashamed of themselves for not having thought of this sooner...   What kept kicking off the washer during spin?

 

This blasted power bar!!  

 

The clicking and stalling Phil heard was actually not the washer clicking... It was the breaker on the power bar; it's an old one (circa 1984) and the breaker would almost, but not quite, trip when the spin 'overload' draw was generated.  

 

I am ashamed of myself, because the first test I did was with the washer plugged directly into a wall outlet (well, ceiling outlet actually, because we are still fiddling with the garage outlets for the drywalling).  The washer ran and could spin then but heavens forbid I was able to make the connection

 

Now, let's see if I can take this defective power bar back to Pascal's Hardware tomorrow... LOL

 

 

 

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Needless to say,  I was pretty darn happy too!!

 

Now, as per Ben's suggestion, I'm going to find a set of legs for the Unimatic and get this beastie down to the Ogden Laundry!  I've got LOTS of dirty work clothes from the garage drywalling job from the past two weeks. 

 

I am going to try to slot the Unimatic next to the Canadian MultiMatic and do some side-by-side comparisons.  

 

Phil was filming the first spin test more than I was, so he'll probably be posting that later. 

 

PHEW!!!

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Unimatic Up And Running

Great guess Ben about a circuit breaker problem, while the other guess were all possible I usually try not to guess unless I am pretty sure what is likely wrong with members appliances and none of the other guesses sounded that likely.

We used several of those cheap power strip's at our Warehouse when testing appliances before we installed permanent wiring and had funny problems with them a few times, and with a UM that drawing around 26 AMPS as it goes into spin for 10 seconds or longer I am not surprised that the power-strip did not like it.

John L.
 
Yes,power outlet boxes aren't typically meant to be used with large motor loads such as a washer or many types of power tools.They were meant for lower current electronic gear that doesn't have the large start currents a washer would require when going to spin mode.
The contactor soleniods are similar to those in a washer that are used in the various high current circuits in our transmitters-if the contactor soleniod cycles frequently-it will get warm.If it gets very hot,hums loudly, and then smokes you have a problem.Think washer soleniods would be similar in action.The coil windings can short to each other or to the soleniod case or core.Then the smoke comes out!
 
Paul, what I heard was the washer clicking, but I figured it was because it got intermittent power! That's why I suspected the power bar! 

 

I did make a few videos yesterday but most of them disappeared from my phone's memory card! I was quite mad to see that the pictures I took of the moon and the video I made of a spider in it's web just a few hours later were gone as well as all the photos and videos I have captured earlier today today. But mysteriously, the video I wanted to upload on YouTube was still there (and the only one that remained from yesterday!). 

 

So here it is!

 



 
 
Thanks - I just can't wait to get this down to laundry room!!  

 

Dumb question du jour:  I need a replacment germicidal bulb for the Filtrator (and a couple of other machines, too) and I have found potential replacements on-line at places like bulbs.com.  However, they seem to be rated at 10.5 v - when connected in series with the 40w incandescent drum light will this provide a voltage low enough to safely power the germicidal bulb?

 

Ben, I've sent you a PM about the Maytag dryer legs.
 
Bonne nouvelles!  I found a local parts place who can get me a new set of legs.   There are a very few reconditioned appliance dealers left around here anymore, so used parts are harder to come by than new sometimes.

 

At any rate, I think my 'new' Unimatic deserves new legs to bring it one step closer to that 'maiden wash'.    Stay tuned!!
 
Fun with Frigidaires.... well not exactly

I've been busting at the seams waiting for a chance to get tuhe latest acquisitions into the Ogden Lauhndry, as you all can imagine.  

 

Finally today, a slot in the basement laundry room became available...

turquoisedude-2014081617234906742_1.jpg
 
Here it is,  fresh from the garage!! 

 

I somehow managed to straighten the leveling legs and I figured with a solid pad, the machine would be fairly stable. 

 

Well, I actually turned out to be right on this one and the machine ran through a fill, wash and spin with some vibration, but nothing like what I had been experiencing in the garage.  Oh, and just to be on the safe side, I connected it directly to the wall outlet and not to the drop light cord with a screw-in adapter... LOL 

turquoisedude-2014081617275306159_1.jpg

turquoisedude-2014081617275306159_2.jpg
 

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