Unimatic washer motor failure? (The sad silence of a GM Frigidaire)

[kennywhy]

Occasionally I use my WO65-2 washer. From time to time I've noticed an intermittent chattering or slight squeal whenever the motor runs, assuming it to be the motor fan and choosing to ignore it. A change in this noise recently included a slight dimming of the lights on the same circuit as the washer, in sync with the chattering or clicking noise. Unwisely, on Sunday I chose to walk upstairs and away from the machine. A few minutes later I could hear the noise much more consistent and louder, and then sudden silence as I ran downstairs to find the machine stopped at the start of the rinse cycle and a smoke filled basement. The first and only time I chose to trust it running without "supervision"!
If it is the motor that has "burned out", why don't I at least get the timer to run? The machine is completely dead. The reset may or may not have popped out when the incident occurred (maybe just up slightly), It was hard to tell. The washer circuit didn’t click off. It’s got electricity.
Just wondering what you folks might recommend. Rewind and rebuild the motor, or look for a replacement motor? Or might there be something else going on I need to check.
I remember hearing some time back, that there may be some new replacement motors out there in Applianceville. It would be great to be able to purchase one. If so, and/or if anyone would like to sell a used motor that they are sure is working, I would be interested in buying it. Or am I better off rebuilding (by a pro motor rebuilder) what I’ve got?
If it’s only the motor that’s gone, I guess that’s not so bad. At least it’s rebuildable, replaceable and relatively easily to repair, as opposed to the Unimatic drive.
All thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
(313) 869-8058, or e-mail; [email protected].

 

[mayken4now]

Keep the faith Kenny:

These folks here can assist.

Steve

 

[westytoploader]

Hi Kenny, I'm new to the "Unimatic Club"...but I'll try to help. Based on experiences with Glenn's WO-65 and my WO-65-2, the motor should pull out of the start winding by centrifugal force. From your description, it sounds like the reset switch was tripped (which kills all activity; motor, timer, etc...) because the motor became stuck in the start winding, hence the smoke. Before that, it could have been popping in and out of the start winding (which would explain the dimming lights and noise)...though I've never heard of this happening with any induction-type motor. It could also be a bad start capacitor as well...but I'm not positive.

How loud was your machine when it was running, during pulsation and spin? Mine is relatively quiet during pulsation (aside from the top ring smacking the water), and there is a slight change in motor noise when the 1140 RPM top speed is reached (from pulling out of the start winding). Glenn's machine, with the start winding problem, ran a little rough during pulsation (the pump was primed but it was a dry test).

Just giving my opinion on the diagnosis...I know a Unimatic expert would know what the problem is and how to fix it, and you'll be washing away in no time! Those Unimatics are such great machines...once you own one you're attached for life!

--Austin

 

[Unimatic1140]

Too early to Diagnose the Motor Stator

Hi Kenny, sorry to hear about your WO-65-2. OK the first step here is to get back power to the machine. Did you press the reset button on the motor protector? If so and its not resetting (still no power), then the protector switch needs to be replaced. But for testing purposes you can just jump it out of the circuit by using a cord with two aligator clips one on each end. You can buy those at radio shack. Try that and see if you can get power back to the machine.

When you say start of the rinse cycle, do you mean rinse fill or rinse agitation?

 

[jetcone]

I'll bet he has seized starter switch contacts!!

The start winding is not kicking out and the motor overheats and draws WAY Too much AMPs.

Like RObert says jump out the motor switch and run it for an instant, or sometimes I just manually push down on the motor start switch while trying the power to see if it can even start.

 

[Unimatic1140]

That's exactly what I'm thinking Jon, Glenn has the same problem on his Unimatic. It seems to me that the most common problem with the Unimatic is the motor start switch.

 

[kennywhy]

Unimatic problem continued: Q's & A's

The question to me from Robert:
"Did you press the reset button on the motor protector? If so and its not resetting (still no power), then the protector switch needs to be replaced. But for testing purposes you can just jump it out of the circuit by using a cord with two aligator clips one on each end."

Yes Robert, the reset button is in.
Who's got an extra "Push to Reset" protector switch on hand? Or I suppose I could buy another timer from Midwest Timer. It's part of the assembly I believe. Only $30 or so. Also forgive my ignorance, but exactly where do I jump the wires to and from?

The question to me from Jon:
"Like Robert says jump out the motor switch and run it for an instant, or sometimes I just manually push down on the motor start switch while trying the power to see if it can even start."

Jon: It may be something obvious I'm missing, but where is the motor start switch to manually push down?

Your comments as always, much appreciated. It may be the weekend or longer however, before I can actually get into working on the machine.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[christfr]

HOW SAD

I WORRY ABOUT MY GIRL TOO EVERY TIME I USE HER..BUT WHEN THERE IS A WILL THERE IS A WAY.SHELL BE BACK ONE DAY.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Kenny, what we mean was to hold down the motor protector button (Jon didn't mean to hold down the motor start switch, its inside the motor casing, its hard to reach and it would be a big shock risk).

As for how to jump out the motor protector, I will post a picture for you tonight.

 

[kennywhy]

Another few things I should have mentioned . . .

Robert, you asked when it happened.
It was at the start of the final rinse cycle. I'm almost positive it had started to agitate, then loud clattering and it stopped.
Also to be noted is the fact that when I got the machine from John L., it had the motor start problem. The major work I did on it, with help from the Applianceville community, was the replacement of the starter (spoon) switch. I was able to find a new one. The Delco motor was cleaned of oil and the switch installed. Also the fan was replaced with a new part. It's run fine since, except for the chattering fan or motor.
Ken

 

[jetcone]

Nothing is stuck under the pulsator is it?

Clunking sounds out of that machine are bizarre not at all normal even in failure.

The motor protector switch is on the backsplash its sometimes Chrome or white and looks exactly like the return to home page here on Applianceville.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Jumping the Motor Protector Out of the Circuit

OK Ken, here is what you want to do to jump the Motor Protector Switch out of the circuit.

Pull the timer and switch asssembly out of the control panel from the front. Here is a picture of it pulled out...

 

[Unimatic1140]

Now pull the Incoming Power Wire (should be black) from the Motor Protector bullet terminal and switch it with the wire in the terminal marked Black on the timer box. (Shown in the picture below).

BE SURE TO PULL THE PLUG FIRST AS THE INCOMING POWER WIRE IS THE FIRST WIRE OUT OFF THE WALL PLUG AND ITS LIVE WHENEVER THE WASHER IS PLUGGED IN.

Replace the timer and parts and give the washer a try in AGITATION. If the is some kind of strang clanking and its not the fan then the problem might be a serious transmission job. Let us know what happens.

 

[lightedcontrols]

PUSH T START SWITCH

Ken, Give me the part number as I may have one. We are going over to the warehouse tomorrow and I'll look. Mark