Another thought . . . is it possible the refrigerant level is lower than optimal? I know that our central A/C has a slow leak, and as it loses refrigerant, it causes the A/C to cycle for longer periods of time to make the same amount of cool air.
Update: GE Under Counter Freezer usage report
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dj-gabriele
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Well, my figures were for my 110 litres (3,9 cubic feet) freezer, in energy class A, set at -18°C, the outside size is like a standard washing machine 85x60x60 cm.
The stated power consumption is 0,62 kWh a day.
The stated power consumption is 0,62 kWh a day.
Todd, you may want to devise a way to provide both intake and outflow unimpeded.
When the condenser fan on my mom's '75 Coldspot SxS fridge was failing (again, same system as yours and the other units I described above) and RPM's were either reduced or non-existent, the cabinet temps were seriously impacted. Ice cream went soft in a freezer that normally maintained 0 degrees. So, airflow across the coils is crucial. You can perhaps get away with some of the exhaust being sucked back over the coils, as the air passing over the coils can be up to 100 degrees and still be effective, but you definitely don't want to compromise the amount of air being drawn over the condenser.
When the condenser fan on my mom's '75 Coldspot SxS fridge was failing (again, same system as yours and the other units I described above) and RPM's were either reduced or non-existent, the cabinet temps were seriously impacted. Ice cream went soft in a freezer that normally maintained 0 degrees. So, airflow across the coils is crucial. You can perhaps get away with some of the exhaust being sucked back over the coils, as the air passing over the coils can be up to 100 degrees and still be effective, but you definitely don't want to compromise the amount of air being drawn over the condenser.
norgeway
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If it is...
Operating correctly..it will actually use LESS power than a new one, All this "Energy efficency" crap the manufacturers are pushing is just to get you to buy new...Its not self defrosting, so it should draw MUCH less current overall.
Operating correctly..it will actually use LESS power than a new one, All this "Energy efficency" crap the manufacturers are pushing is just to get you to buy new...Its not self defrosting, so it should draw MUCH less current overall.
austinado16
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The fan opening is now covered over.
Could definately be low on freon. But when it cycles on, it only runs for about 5 minutes. It's pretty apparent that this was someone's project at one time. In working on it so much yesterday, and even having the front lifted about 2 feet in the air, it actually looks like someone replace both the condensor assembly, and the compressor. They must have known what they were doing, because it's a pretty decent job. They even took the door completely apart in order to paint it white, and the same with steel fascia panel above the door....they took all the chrome letters and GE logo out, so it could be stripped and profesionally painted, and then glued them back in place.
I agree about this older stuff not using much power.....everything in my house is this same old stuff, and as I mentioned, prior to the fish tank, we were consistantly in the mid to high $40 range every month for electricity.
I can definately vent the lower area of the front doors, or as I mentioned, just prop them open as a test, leave them closed as a test, and see what happens.
I'll see how it goes now for the next few days and then give an official report once the kill-a-watt meter arrives.
Regarding the refrigerant, I assume that can be checked and filled, just like on automotive systems? I actually do automotive systems, but have never played with appliance systems.[this post was last edited: 2/4/2011-18:54]
Could definately be low on freon. But when it cycles on, it only runs for about 5 minutes. It's pretty apparent that this was someone's project at one time. In working on it so much yesterday, and even having the front lifted about 2 feet in the air, it actually looks like someone replace both the condensor assembly, and the compressor. They must have known what they were doing, because it's a pretty decent job. They even took the door completely apart in order to paint it white, and the same with steel fascia panel above the door....they took all the chrome letters and GE logo out, so it could be stripped and profesionally painted, and then glued them back in place.
I agree about this older stuff not using much power.....everything in my house is this same old stuff, and as I mentioned, prior to the fish tank, we were consistantly in the mid to high $40 range every month for electricity.
I can definately vent the lower area of the front doors, or as I mentioned, just prop them open as a test, leave them closed as a test, and see what happens.
I'll see how it goes now for the next few days and then give an official report once the kill-a-watt meter arrives.
Regarding the refrigerant, I assume that can be checked and filled, just like on automotive systems? I actually do automotive systems, but have never played with appliance systems.[this post was last edited: 2/4/2011-18:54]
cfz2882
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current draw
measured the current draw of 3 more refrigeratos/freezers today:
list from least to most current pulled;
70s japanese mini fridge: .5a
1968 italian mini fridge: .9a
1980 absocold "big"mini fridge(about the size of a rollout D/W):1.2a
Ca.1972 GE full size manual defrost:1.8a
Ca.1974 westinghouse chest freezer:3a
Ca.1946-50 GE chest freezer:3.7a(big 4-pole,1725rpm,"bolted hermetic"
compressor)
Not checked yet:2000 W/P frostless(could'nt get to the plug easy)
Current draw of these was less than expected and as long as the insulation
is decent enough,shouldn't be as bad of "energy hogs"as they are supposed
to be...
measured the current draw of 3 more refrigeratos/freezers today:
list from least to most current pulled;
70s japanese mini fridge: .5a
1968 italian mini fridge: .9a
1980 absocold "big"mini fridge(about the size of a rollout D/W):1.2a
Ca.1972 GE full size manual defrost:1.8a
Ca.1974 westinghouse chest freezer:3a
Ca.1946-50 GE chest freezer:3.7a(big 4-pole,1725rpm,"bolted hermetic"
compressor)
Not checked yet:2000 W/P frostless(could'nt get to the plug easy)
Current draw of these was less than expected and as long as the insulation
is decent enough,shouldn't be as bad of "energy hogs"as they are supposed
to be...
austinado16
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Thanks for posting those. Looking forward to testing when my meter comes next week.
I've caught the freezer running twice today (not sure how many times it's run) and each time it only stayed on for 5min. Can't imagine it could use much, only running 5min at a time.
I've caught the freezer running twice today (not sure how many times it's run) and each time it only stayed on for 5min. Can't imagine it could use much, only running 5min at a time.
austinado16
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Got my "Kill-A-Watt" meter today
This is a very neat tool.
Looks like the freezer uses 2.19amps on initial start and that slowly tapers off to 1.98amps when it shuts off. A 6min run cycle, it used 0.01KWH. I caught in mid-run, so it may use more than .01 per cycle. I'll watch for it today and see if I can get a true read for the 5min cycle.
I'm noticing that now that it's in the "shed" it comes on about every 40-45min where before, it seemed to be on about a 30min cycle.
I'll report more once I watch the meter today and get a better understanding of how it's measuring.[this post was last edited: 2/9/2011-17:03]
This is a very neat tool.
Looks like the freezer uses 2.19amps on initial start and that slowly tapers off to 1.98amps when it shuts off. A 6min run cycle, it used 0.01KWH. I caught in mid-run, so it may use more than .01 per cycle. I'll watch for it today and see if I can get a true read for the 5min cycle.
I'm noticing that now that it's in the "shed" it comes on about every 40-45min where before, it seemed to be on about a 30min cycle.
I'll report more once I watch the meter today and get a better understanding of how it's measuring.[this post was last edited: 2/9/2011-17:03]
Leave it plugged into the meter for at least a day, that way you;ll get a good reading. I know it's tempting to run around and check stuff when you first get it. but running it on the freezer for a day will give you a pretty accurate idea of the cost.
austinado16
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Yes, that's the plan, see what it uses in a 24hr period. I've been watching it run and updating my post above with more accurate usage info.......for example, I was there when it first kicked on, so I switched into amps mode and it was using 2.19amps. That slowly went down and right before shut off, it was using 1.98.
The meter has been on for about 5hrs and it's reading: 0.28KWH
The meter has been on for about 5hrs and it's reading: 0.28KWH
cfz2882
Well-known member
sounds like the freezer is working just fine,draw of around 2A not bad at
all-might be a little higher in hot weather when there is more load on the
compressor.
all-might be a little higher in hot weather when there is more load on the
compressor.
With those readings it looks like about 1kwh a day, not too bad. Around here it's $.10 kwh so if your rates are similar it shouldn't be too costly to run.
austinado16
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12hrs.....
Well, it's been a little over 12hrs and the meter is at .80KWH. We'll see how it does overnight.
I noticed as the day wore on, it ran more frequently and the 40-45min became 20-25min...at least on one of the times I caught it running.
I've been leaving the left door of the shed opened, about 3-4" wide, and that's directly in front of the exhaust air outlet side of the bottom grill. So it's getting plenty of ventilation, not only when running, but the shed is also being vented so it's not really building up the heat of the day.
According to my current PG&E bill, our baseline charge is about .11877 cents per kilowatt, and then tiers up from there to .13502 cents and then .29062 cents. The base line level is ridiculously low, so everyone's bill is always beyond that, and the excess being billed out in the 2nd and even 3rd tier price ranges.
In looking over the bill, it shows we use 505KWH this past billing cycle, and this time last year 488, with one less day in the billing cycle. They calculate that last year we were using 15.2KWH per day and this past billing cycle, 16.3. So maybe the freezer is only burning about 1.1KWH per day....I guess I'll see in the morning when I check the Kill-A-Watt meter.
Can't wait to try it on the 1952 Philco and then the aquarium.
Well, it's been a little over 12hrs and the meter is at .80KWH. We'll see how it does overnight.
I noticed as the day wore on, it ran more frequently and the 40-45min became 20-25min...at least on one of the times I caught it running.
I've been leaving the left door of the shed opened, about 3-4" wide, and that's directly in front of the exhaust air outlet side of the bottom grill. So it's getting plenty of ventilation, not only when running, but the shed is also being vented so it's not really building up the heat of the day.
According to my current PG&E bill, our baseline charge is about .11877 cents per kilowatt, and then tiers up from there to .13502 cents and then .29062 cents. The base line level is ridiculously low, so everyone's bill is always beyond that, and the excess being billed out in the 2nd and even 3rd tier price ranges.
In looking over the bill, it shows we use 505KWH this past billing cycle, and this time last year 488, with one less day in the billing cycle. They calculate that last year we were using 15.2KWH per day and this past billing cycle, 16.3. So maybe the freezer is only burning about 1.1KWH per day....I guess I'll see in the morning when I check the Kill-A-Watt meter.
Can't wait to try it on the 1952 Philco and then the aquarium.
austinado16
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The moment we've all been waiting for...
Well, it's been just about 24hrs and the meter is sitting at 1.38KWH. So I'm going to call it; 1.4KWH per day (24hrs). Multiply by 12 cents is .17 cents per day and times 30 days is $5.
Of course the actual real world dollar amount is much higher because we aren't billed at that baseline Kilowatt price. So realistically, it's probably being billed out at .29 cents per, so that's .40 cents a day and $12 per month......$144 per year.
So how does this useage compare with modern stuff? Looks like I'm at just over double what a couple of posters from Italy and Oz state their freezers use.
I'm going to turn the dial lower than setting #1, as in warmer, and take some temp measurements in a day or 2 to make sure things are still frozen at the correct temp range. I'll continue to watch the meter and see if useage improves slightly.
Watched the KWH reading while it was running this morning and it increased by .02KWH for the 6 minute run time. Geez, that means it comes on about 70 times in a 24hr period! That seems like a lot to me, especially since I haven't opened the door in 3 or 4 days. Makes me think it's not insulated very weil, maybe because it's designed to be sandwiched under a counter-top and in between kitchen cabinets.......rather than being exposed to air on all sides.
Guess I could also insulate the outside of it on the top and sides, and see if that makes a difference in the afternoon when it wants to run more frequently.[this post was last edited: 2/10/2011-15:05]
Well, it's been just about 24hrs and the meter is sitting at 1.38KWH. So I'm going to call it; 1.4KWH per day (24hrs). Multiply by 12 cents is .17 cents per day and times 30 days is $5.
Of course the actual real world dollar amount is much higher because we aren't billed at that baseline Kilowatt price. So realistically, it's probably being billed out at .29 cents per, so that's .40 cents a day and $12 per month......$144 per year.
So how does this useage compare with modern stuff? Looks like I'm at just over double what a couple of posters from Italy and Oz state their freezers use.
I'm going to turn the dial lower than setting #1, as in warmer, and take some temp measurements in a day or 2 to make sure things are still frozen at the correct temp range. I'll continue to watch the meter and see if useage improves slightly.
Watched the KWH reading while it was running this morning and it increased by .02KWH for the 6 minute run time. Geez, that means it comes on about 70 times in a 24hr period! That seems like a lot to me, especially since I haven't opened the door in 3 or 4 days. Makes me think it's not insulated very weil, maybe because it's designed to be sandwiched under a counter-top and in between kitchen cabinets.......rather than being exposed to air on all sides.
Guess I could also insulate the outside of it on the top and sides, and see if that makes a difference in the afternoon when it wants to run more frequently.[this post was last edited: 2/10/2011-15:05]
I have different rates, and it's hard to determine what rate to use. I decided the best option is to take the total electric bill and divide it by the total usage and get an average cost per hour, probably a better reflection of costs.
austinado16
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Test day #3
4kwh as of 72hrs, so turning the dial a bit "warmer" than #1 setting has cut down on the number of cycles per 24hrs. It's still plenty cold inside, so I'll leave it like this for now and see what the next electric bill looks like. I think in the last 24hrs it only used 1.27kwh.
And what pops up on CL yesterday for free? A fantastic little Philco chest style freezer from probably the early 50's. Still working. It's about the size of this GE, sort of a giant cube, but with a top door only. Very cool. If I didn't already have this GE, I'd be all over it.
If someone hear wants it, I'd be happy to pick it up and hold it for you or your shipping service.
http://slo.craigslist.org/zip/2209937670.html
4kwh as of 72hrs, so turning the dial a bit "warmer" than #1 setting has cut down on the number of cycles per 24hrs. It's still plenty cold inside, so I'll leave it like this for now and see what the next electric bill looks like. I think in the last 24hrs it only used 1.27kwh.
And what pops up on CL yesterday for free? A fantastic little Philco chest style freezer from probably the early 50's. Still working. It's about the size of this GE, sort of a giant cube, but with a top door only. Very cool. If I didn't already have this GE, I'd be all over it.
If someone hear wants it, I'd be happy to pick it up and hold it for you or your shipping service.
http://slo.craigslist.org/zip/2209937670.html
austinado16
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Test Day #4
5.25kwh as of today, so the useage has dropped to 1.25kwh per day. That's 62 cycles per day, down from 70. Roughly $4.87 per month down from $5/mo.
5.25kwh as of today, so the useage has dropped to 1.25kwh per day. That's 62 cycles per day, down from 70. Roughly $4.87 per month down from $5/mo.
dj-gabriele
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Hey, that's not terrible for a 50+ year old appliance! But still a modern one uses half that amount of power! Anyway, being the things the way they are, I wouldn't change it to save 3 USD a month! 
norgeway
Well-known member
1/2 power???
Not when you factor in the defrost cycle...not only running an electric heater inside your fridge..but then running the compressor to drop the temp back...I still say a vintage unit is more economical...especially in the long run, it will outlast 3 or 4 new units!
Not when you factor in the defrost cycle...not only running an electric heater inside your fridge..but then running the compressor to drop the temp back...I still say a vintage unit is more economical...especially in the long run, it will outlast 3 or 4 new units!
dj-gabriele
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I still say a vintage unit is more economical...
NOT REALLY!
A modern, completely frost-free freezer/refrigerator at 100 L freezer and 200 L refrigerator, in energy class A+, uses less than 300 kWh per year!
And if you get an A++ or A+++ fridge, the figures are 15% and 30% lower than that!
NOT REALLY!
A modern, completely frost-free freezer/refrigerator at 100 L freezer and 200 L refrigerator, in energy class A+, uses less than 300 kWh per year!
And if you get an A++ or A+++ fridge, the figures are 15% and 30% lower than that!
