washer/dryer keeps blowing fuse
- Thread starter andyzanni
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arbilab
Well-known member
Read the plate where it says Amps, that's what fuses and wiring are rated for. Is it greater than the fuse value? Do not put a bigger fuse in, the fuse is matched to the diameter of the wire on that branch.
If the plate is rated in Watts, divide that by your mains voltage to get Amps.
Now, if the dryer rating is greater than the branch rating, an electrician will have to come in and rewire the branch for higher capacity. Shortcuts in capacity can pose a fire hazard to your home.
If the plate is rated in Watts, divide that by your mains voltage to get Amps.
Now, if the dryer rating is greater than the branch rating, an electrician will have to come in and rewire the branch for higher capacity. Shortcuts in capacity can pose a fire hazard to your home.
dj-gabriele
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- 1,685
keeps blowing the house electrics out
What is that trips?
The overcurrent device or the residual current device?
In the first case you have some wires shorting out (risk of fire and burning) on the second case you have an insulation problem (as an example the heater cladding or blower are worn and making contact to ground)
@arbilab: In Europe there aren't low and high current outlets: in UK and Ireland they follow the BS 7671 regulation (or the Irish equivalent) and all the outlets are capable of supplying 13Amps at 230V (formerly 240V) and are wired accordingly, while in the rest of the E.U. the outlets are capable of supplying 16Amps of current at 230V (formerly 220V).
On top of this fuses in British and Irish domestic installation are self contained in the plug, going from usually 2,5, 6 and 13Amps according to the connected load to spare the wiring and appliance from burning in case of a short circuit should develop because ring-circuits are way more common that the rest of the world and they're usually protected from a single 32A overcurrent device while other European countries have single 16A protection devices serving single outlets or groups of outlets when the standard connected load isn't likely to draw more than the rated capacity. (Mind that 16A at 230V is 3680 Watts!)
What is that trips?
The overcurrent device or the residual current device?
In the first case you have some wires shorting out (risk of fire and burning) on the second case you have an insulation problem (as an example the heater cladding or blower are worn and making contact to ground)
@arbilab: In Europe there aren't low and high current outlets: in UK and Ireland they follow the BS 7671 regulation (or the Irish equivalent) and all the outlets are capable of supplying 13Amps at 230V (formerly 240V) and are wired accordingly, while in the rest of the E.U. the outlets are capable of supplying 16Amps of current at 230V (formerly 220V).
On top of this fuses in British and Irish domestic installation are self contained in the plug, going from usually 2,5, 6 and 13Amps according to the connected load to spare the wiring and appliance from burning in case of a short circuit should develop because ring-circuits are way more common that the rest of the world and they're usually protected from a single 32A overcurrent device while other European countries have single 16A protection devices serving single outlets or groups of outlets when the standard connected load isn't likely to draw more than the rated capacity. (Mind that 16A at 230V is 3680 Watts!)
arbilab
Well-known member
In (recent) US construction most branches are 20A @ 120V (formerly 110 and 115 and sometimes closer to 125). What changes is the number of sockets on a 20A branch. Like, all the sockets in the bedroom(s) can be on one branch. But the kitchen will probably have at least 2, one for say, the lights and the fridge, one for the counter socket where the microwave and toaster goes. The laundry has its own.
Technically my laundry socket is overloaded with washer and dryer running at the same time @ 22.5A. But the washer plate says 9.6A and I'm certain that is only peak like when starting spin. The breaker never trips.
Also, breakers can go bad and trip for no reason. Even fuses can, but the replacement shouldn't, not right away. Fatigue has to build up.
Technically my laundry socket is overloaded with washer and dryer running at the same time @ 22.5A. But the washer plate says 9.6A and I'm certain that is only peak like when starting spin. The breaker never trips.
Also, breakers can go bad and trip for no reason. Even fuses can, but the replacement shouldn't, not right away. Fatigue has to build up.
Andy
What is exactly happening?
Does the machine trip the GFI, a fuse? Do you have a fuse in the plug too in Northern Ireland?
What is exactly happening?
Does the machine trip the GFI, a fuse? Do you have a fuse in the plug too in Northern Ireland?
HOTPOINTMARK
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- Nov 21, 2011
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- 13
washer
could be the heater on the dryer as gone i had hotpoint do the same thing then if it does it all the time you got falty electrics on the machine
could be the heater on the dryer as gone i had hotpoint do the same thing then if it does it all the time you got falty electrics on the machine
Fuses
In Northern Ireland there would be a fuse in the plug although if I remember it right this is in a garage so it is conceiveable that it would have its own dedicated circuit. If so, and it is rated at 16A, it is possible that the breaker would trip before the fuse would "blow" as the breaker is more sensative. However, I think the key is "it blows the house electrics out" indicating that it is the RCD (earth/ground) that is tripping rather than an overload which would just blow out the circuit. Be interesting to know if the trip occurs when the drier starts or during the program - but either way it shounds like the insulation is breaking down in the drier unit - which could be why the pervious owners got shot of it in the first place
Al
In Northern Ireland there would be a fuse in the plug although if I remember it right this is in a garage so it is conceiveable that it would have its own dedicated circuit. If so, and it is rated at 16A, it is possible that the breaker would trip before the fuse would "blow" as the breaker is more sensative. However, I think the key is "it blows the house electrics out" indicating that it is the RCD (earth/ground) that is tripping rather than an overload which would just blow out the circuit. Be interesting to know if the trip occurs when the drier starts or during the program - but either way it shounds like the insulation is breaking down in the drier unit - which could be why the pervious owners got shot of it in the first place
Al
