Washer powers off randomly and intermittently?

[jhanson]

Hi,

Very nice forum with much information. I hope someone here can help me solve this.

I have a Miele W5847 W5801WPS HCXL washer that randomly powers off during operation. It's like if the power plug has been pulled, the machine is completely off. After about 30 seconds, the display will turn on and show the default settings like when the power button is pressed. There are no error codes or anything in the display to indicate a fault has occured.

The power outlet has been checked and verified to work correctly.

It's completely random in which program or where the machine will power off. In the beginning or after more than an hour, cold or high temperature, spinning at low or high rpm. It can happen anywhere.

The problem is also intermittent. The fault first happened last year, I repeatedly started a wash program or a spin cycle, but the machine would power off at some point during the cycle, as explained above, every time.

Then suddenly the machine was able to complete a wash without powering off and for the next 8 months, the machine would complete every single wash without problems, more than a hundred. Different programs in the duration from 20 minutes to multiple hours, with every temperature and spinning speed the machine is capable of.

A month ago, the fault happened again. As last time I tried many times and over a few days to start a wash program, but the machine would power off every single time, then again it would suddenly complete a full wash program and continue to work without failures for the next month.

Now the problem is back and I really would like to solve it. As stated in the beginning, the power outlet has been checked. The power cord and plug of the washer has also been checked and verified.

What could be the cause of this fault?

Thanks in advance.

Also, if anyone know where to find the service manual for this washer, I'm very interested to know.

 

[richnz]

A questions to clarify please

Is it a W5847 or is it a W5801?

Does it have a regular brushed motor or does it have a brushless motor?

 

[richnz]

Arg, and now I cannot edit my grammatical error without upgrading.

 

[jhanson]

It is a Miele HomeCare XL W5801. This is from the sticker on inside of the door:

Mod: W5847 W5801WPS HCXL
Type: HW09-2

I'm not sure why it also says W5847 but is definitely a W5801.

The motor is a regular brushed motor.

 

[richnz]

If its like my machine which is a

W5740 Miele, there is a PCB under the lid with the label

ELP 165-s

I bought mine for an absolute bargain because it had power issues.
There seems to be issues with the power chip TNY278GN.

I was lucky that I replaced mine and it then worked flawlessly.

Google Miele TNY278GN and you might see some interesting pictures.

The thing is that this machine is ON continuously. The on/off button is more like a sleep/wake button.

For me it wasn't an expensive item and I am handy with a soldering iron.

Are you handy doing a self repair and have you looked under the lid?

One person who I was messaging noted that their chip got very warm (They had replaced the IGBT in an earlier repair and I did wonder if that was related to the TNY278GN also)

Hope this helps and I am interested if you get further replies.
I can also help with leaking dishwasher diverter valves and dishwasher F79 errors too.

Richard

 

[gizmo]

Does it go completely dead? ie: no lights on the dashboard or any sign of life?

 

I'd be tempted to look at the door switch. (The one that stops everything if the door is open.)

These aren't very reliable in most front loaders, so they are a common repair.

They can get a burned contact inside, giving erratic connection. Working, not working, then working again - completely believable this could be a dodgy contact in the door switch. If that is the fault, it should be a cheap and easy repair.

the switch might also be called "interlock" or "lock" or "latch".

I have googled and haven't found one for your model number.

this UK listing has several Miele door interlocks - hopefully one is a match for you.

 

 

 

https://www.partmaster.co.uk/miele/...?shop=miele&path=108667&refine=door+interlock

 

[jhanson]

#4

Indeed, very interesting pictures was found of TNY278GN. In the descriptions I have found so far, the chip is melted and washer is completely dead. In my case the washer is able to power on and first powers off during operation, but maybe this can also be TNY278GN related?

What symptoms did you experience on your W5740?
Was the TNY278GN visually damaged?

I had a quick look under the lid, it was very late night. I did not see anything that looked out of place, but I will have to take a closer look. Most of the components on the PCB was covered by a shield.

 

[jhanson]

#5

Yes, it go completely dead, there are no lights and everything stops running instantly. It is exactly as if you pulled the power plug while the washer was washing. Then after about 30-60 seconds, the dashboard lights up and wants you to select a washing program as it normally would, if you had just turned the washer on. No error code is shown, and it is only because the water was not drained and clothes not spinned, that I found out something was wrong to begin with.

Could this still be a faulty door switch?
Is it normal with no error code or other error message in this case?

I have found the door switch in my country. It is not very expensive and seems very easy to replace, only remove rubber gasket and unscrew two screws, then switch can be removed. It would great if this was the solution.

 

[henene4]

Most likely isn't

The machine - unlike older ones - will stay powered on with the door open.

Thus there is no state the door switch could be in that would power down the washer.

 

[gizmo]

Sorry to give bad advice.

I have a Miele W3831, a similar overall design.

I just checked and Henrik is right, opening the door during a cycle does not turn off the display.

I thought it did, my mistake.

 

I would still look for simple/cheap options first.

Look at where power cord comes into the machine. There is a power filter, probably branded Iskra. Check the terminals, look for loose fit or burn marks.

Also check the power on/off switch at the front of the machine. I'm not sure if that is a separate switch, or part of a circuit board.

If/when the machine faults again, while it is dead, try pressing at the power button. See if any movement/vibration of the button causes it to come to life. Also tap on the back of the machine, behind the power filter unit. If it is a loose connection, a bit of tapping/vibration can make it come to life.

 

[estesguy]

Verified or not, I'd get a heavy duty sufficient amp rated extension cord equal to the machine requirements, and try running it on another outlet that is also on another circuit breaker.

 

[richnz]

Further question

When you do manage to turn it on, do all of the LED's have the same degree of brightness?

I have found some of the LED's were faulty and have replaced them. These are the LED's around the dial.

The machine I have wouldn't turn on. When the chip was replaced it worked perfectly except the right column of LED's didn't work (On the right of the dial) and two of the left column didn't work.

Currently I am working on a W5873 which has similar power issues.
However it does not have a TNY chip.

 

[jhanson]

Sorry for the late reply. The machine has been working normally for two weeks or so.

In the past I have tested the machine on different power outlets on separate circuit breaker groups, and the fault have happened in both places, while other devices connected at the same time did not power off, so I'm 99% sure the problem is inside the machine.

Every time the machine has powered off mid cycle, the display will turn itself on within 30-60 seconds and show the default start screen. Everything seems normal and all LED's have the same brightness afterwards.

Now I have been offered a very cheap used PCB identical to mine (ELP 165 SW KD). I don't know which model it has been removed from. Since there is a good chance the problem is with my PCB, I'm very interested in taking this offer.

1. Can I just swap the PCB and it should work, or is more configuration needed?
2. Any tips for removing the PCB from washing machine? Is it just to pull the plugs and lift up the PCB, or is a special procedure required to avoid breaking something?

Thanks for all your help.

 

[richnz]

Limited answers

1) ???
The machine has a board in the front and the main board which you will be replacing. If you need programming of spin-speeds etc then YouTube can help.

2) The rast plugs only go into one connector (hopefully). It pays to label with a marker pen or to take detailed photos or BOTH.
Its obvious how to remove the board. The people who designed the plastic parts deserve an award for how it clips together.

Some of the rast plug keeper ends may break but that's not a biggie.

If you are successful with the swap will you then attempt the TNY replacement?

Rich

 

[jhanson]

Sorry if my question was unclear, what I meant was if I could just take the ELP 165 from donor machine and install into mine without further configuration.

However, I have now completed the operation and figured out that I had to write down the settings from original ELP 165 in service mode, and put in the same settings after replacement.

So far it seems to work, but as the fault was intermittent before I can't be completely sure before multiple months of washing.

I will be doing the TNY replacement if the fault no longer happens with donor board.