What brand new Top Loader Washer do you recommend?

[stuftrock1]

Mayag Commercial 575

In many ways, the 575 will actually do a better job cleaning than the TC5 because of the dual action agitator. I'm also fairly certain the 575 also has a larger capacity than the TC5. On top of that, the 575 also has a much higher spin speed than the TC5 so you will save energy in the dryer.

However, the 575 doesn't come close to the TC5 in terms of quality and dependability. The TC5 will definitely outlast it. The 575 also has no tub break and therefore has a lid lock, and uses suspension rods, so it will get off balance easier.

If your energy bill is an issue for you and you need something with large capacity, go with the Maytag. If you need something that will get the job done in a timely manner without any silly quirks and will last you 30+ years, go with the Speed Queen.

 

[good-shepherd]

Maytag Commercial MVWP575GW

I think "combo52" mentioned those Maytag Commercial models were having transmission failures.

 

[eurekastar]

What the salesman said about the TC 5000 and water level selection is not accurate.  The default water level is half tub; however, with the push of a button, a full tub can be selected. 

 

I once owned the Maytag commercial and had THREE warranty repairs within the first year.  One of those repairs was for a gearbox failure. 

 

[keith]

IMO The Maytag is a glorified $350 VMW under the covers basically. Splutch and transmission issues from multiple reports. The TR series of speed queens have 3 selectable water levels on any cycle, and actually clean quite well despite what people that don’t use them daily seem to believe. The TC series will use more power but has a more conventional wash action, and a tub brake, so no lid lock, but lack full water level select ability. My TR cleans great!

 

[pinkpower4]

Maytag mvwp575gw

Hi! I've actually owned and used the Maytag mvwp575gw for 2.5 years now. I purchased this in 2018. The SQ AWN432 was nowhere to be found, and the TC5 was not available until May 2019. Though the TR series has some nice features like the auto fill, I am not a fan of the wash action, which would not work for the majority of loads I do (gym clothes, work uniforms, kid/pet messes, etc.).

I think you have three great choices to choose from in a range that should fit any budget: the Roper (also sold as Amana, Conservator, and some other names--the key is to look for that dual action agitator), the Maytag mvwp575gw, and the SQ TC5. I have to agree with Eddie on the Roper. It's the one you want if you're on a tight budget and still want clean clothes. It has a dual action agitator. Not only does the tub and agitator move in separate directions, but the top and bottom of the agitator move independently too. This agitator moves clothes down, in, and through the water much better than a wash plate. You'll find it can wash bulkier and dirtier items better than the pole agitators too. These sell for around $450 to $500 range when not on sale.

Many try to lump this "commercial" Maytag mvwp575gw in with the "commercial technology" models. It's not. It also has a dual action agitator, and I have never had "tangled" clothes. Never. The time I had torn clothes, it was caused by the moisture sensors in the dryer that had come loose. This Maytag mvwp575gw model sells for around $800 at your locally owned and operated appliance dealer. So what does the extra $300 get you? If you purchase the mvwp575gw model, it should come with a five year parts AND labor warranty vs. the one years parts and labor the other top loads come with. Be aware this same washer is sold as the mvwp576kw model at big box stores, but I believe it only comes with a one year parts and labor warranty. In addition to the warranty, you get a 1/2 hp motor, thicker belt, higher watt capacitor, premium bearings, good quality fill hoses, and a sturdy cabinet. The console is also metal. Knobs feel sturdy with a reassuring click. This model has a design that makes it easy to repair. You only need to remove two or four screws depending on what you need to access under the console panel. The front panel of washer is removable. Other parts are accessible by turning washer on its side.

To the best of my knowledge this washer has tap hot for the deep water cycles. It fills by either allowing hot or cold water into the washer but not both at the same time. When I have it set to hot for deep water cycles, it never switches to the cold. It is too hot to hold my hand under the running water (my water heater is set at 120 degrees F). The parts like the splutch are plastic, but should not be a problem if the washer is not overloaded, which is why the Roper should work just fine too. I used mine for my family that includes pets for 2.5 years with NO issues. I can wash any load in 25 minutes (Normal) to 45 (Powerwash). If I add a presoak, it adds only ten minutes. I don't want it any longer. If I did, I could just pause the washer. Lid lock? No problem. Even with it enabled, it only locks during the spin portion of the cycle. Pause the washer, and it stops. Why would you want to add a sock during the spin cycle anyway? Two screws removed, and you don't have that issue any longer. I just wouldn't do this if you have kids, pets, or disabled individuals in the household where defeating this safety feature could put them at risk.

I've only seen a few examples of where this washer has failed. While I agree with the others this is not a true commercial washer (the repeated failures on one model mentioned was used in a commercial setting for a vet clinic), I do believe it's one of the better built residential washers that actually have enough water, the best wash action, and short wash times--THIS is part of what sets it apart from the "commercial technology" ones. There are lemons, and I think one of the board members here probably had one. I agree, it's not the quality of the Maytags I grew up with :-(. The biggest quirk is the Normal Eco cycle is the ONLY smaller load option. Unfortunately, it is also the only cycle that adds cold when hot is chosen. The rinse is a spray, but surprisingly it works well. This cycle is ideal for smaller loads (except delicates) and quick washes. Wash like items with like items, and you won't have issues balancing loads. Maytag/Whirlpool dryers are very good. If a matching pair is important, the dryer won't disappoint.

The TC5. What do you get for $250 more? It has deep water and smaller load options that allow tap hot. There is no automatic temperature sensor on this washer, which I think is an unnecessary gimmick on the Maytag mvwp575gw and most others although it can ensure wash temperature is warm enough for detergent to dissolve in. I do like that the SQ has a metal outer tub and better suspension system. The springs are attached to the outer metal tub and secured to the base of the washer vs. rods that hold a suspended outer plastic tub to the top of the washing machine cabinet. You'll get a good wash action for clothing. Where the Maytag shines here will be for the bulkier and dirtier items. The SQ is the only top load I know of that still has a real transmission, and SQ backs it with a 15-year part warranty. It comes with a three year parts and labor warranty for everything. The washer is built rugged with more metal parts than any other model I know of. I think it will be the longest lasting top load washer that can be bought today. It is also easy to repair. If a matching set is important, be aware the dryer costs more too, but unlike the washer, the price difference cannot be justified. Buy local and from a place that you feel will honor the warranty.

These folks here are knowledgeable because they have experience with many washers, and I have found them to be an invaluable source of information. But some are able to trade their washers out like I trade out a cell phone every few years. LOL. And that's why I took the time to write this post.

I am coming from a position of the average consumer who plans to keep mine as long as *I* can repair it for a reasonable cost and have the skills do that While it is possible to get 20 maybe 30 years out of the SQ (not sure about the new ones--the TC5 has two model specific boards) for these folks, most of us regular folks won't. The bearings are probably what will cause most to replace this washer at around 15 years. Parts are cheap, but labor isn't for us. Just read the reviews. For a typical family with the typical Joe that stuffs way too much in it, most of the "good" ones are being replaced around 15 years. For a single adult or couple, the older built ones might even last a bit longer. I estimate the vmw built Maytag will last most around ten years as this seems to be the life of the bearings for the newer better built washers with the exception of this TC5. I really do think most who treat the SQ TC5 right will get about 15 years out of it before it needs major work most consumers can't do and would cost too much to pay someone else to do. I do think the SQ is the best built top load on the market today, but it's not in some people's budget or not available in their area. That's why I think it is important to give consumers the best product recommendations where the budget is tighter too. The tradeoff is the washer may not last as long, but they will have the best washer in the price range they can afford that will at least get them through right now. With accurate information at the time the decision is made, consumers can make that informed choice and know that up front.

Since the Maytag I is working great for us, I have no reason to replace it. If I had purchased another model, I can guarantee you I would have junked it by now and cut my losses to get one of the three mentioned here. There is one exception to this. If SQ brings back the AWN432, I'm buying it on the spot. I'm still leaning top load, but the SQ FF7 is on my list to look at if I get a front load.

So there you have it. Three good choices in low, moderate, or no budget range. I have no dog in this fight, and I don't care which model you choose but I do want you to have the best short of the long I can give you on the Maytag from the perspective of someone that is using it as their main washer in a family situation with pets.

 

[rp2813]

Here's a link to a youtube video from Eugene, one of our members here.  It compares the SQ TC5 with the Maytag Commercial.  Depending on what you want from your new machine or how much you're willing to spend, this informative video will help you reach a decision on which of these two washers to go with.

 

[petek]

Just watched Eugenes comparison video where he says the SQ warranty is only through the dealership and if they won't fix it, or they went out of biz or you bought it online for example you're basically screwed?

 

[keith]

Speed Queen warranty

Any authorized Speed Queen repair place can repair any other dealers machine. Some will only service what they sell, regardless of brand, that’s up to the individual selling dealer, but there’s 3 different places near me that I can call to get service if I don’t like the one tech our selling dealer sends. If you call SQ they will pull up a list of dealers near you and work with you to get a tech out there.

 

[keith]

Speed Queen warranty

Also, I’m not sure it’s been mentioned, the TR 5 has a 5 year parts/Labor warranty, same as the Maytag.
Tr3 has a 3 year (same as the TC5, save for the transmission).

 

[pinkpower4]

TC5 vs Maytag mvwp57gw Comparison Video

I think this is an excellent comparison video. However, the Maytag mvwp575gw (to the best of my knowledge) has tap hot water for the deep water cycles. The washer fills by alternating hot or cold when warm is chosen but not both at the same time. When it switches between hot and cold, it IS noticeable, and I do NOT see that with hot selected for the deep water cycles. You can also test this yourself. Both faucets need to be on initially as the washer begins by filling for just a few seconds with tap cold. You can then turn off the cold (if temp is set to warm, it will pause at the point cold water is called for). You can also fill it with both faucets on. The temp is the tub feels the same temp and measure the same temp on a candy thermometer I had.

I think there is a way through YT video editing to add a comment to correct this. Eugene really needs to test this again, but he should get the same results I am. It should be noted the manual recommends setting the hot water temp to 120. It may be that over 120, it may add cold? It didn’t seem to do that when I briefly tested it, but that may be where the temp sensor comes into play there. I personally would not set my water heater higher. Above that temp, my kids could get scalded, and I noticed a jump in my gas bill that month I left it set higher when I was playing around with this setting for testing purposes. It’s my opinion, it isn’t worth it for the one or two loads of whites I do each week or for the safety risk of someone in my hh getting scalded. Instead, I need to opt for a FL with an internal heater or a top load model that at least has a sanitary cycle option.

If Eugene was just going by the manual, the manual is written generic. The manual suggests that hot may be tempered. It probably is for many of them but it doesn’t seem to apply to THIS Maytag. My other thought is his hot water tank was in the process of reheating to the proper temp when he tested the Maytag. These thing fill with over 20 gallons of water, so if he was running other machines that day...

Warm alternates by filling with hot and cold based. It takes my washer about 5 to 6 minutes to fill. If I wanted a warmer warm, I can just turn it to hot for a minute or two and then back to warm. The warm as programmed has worked fine for me.

If you set the wash temp to tap cold, the temp is whatever comes in through that cold line. Some people have used a Y connector and control the temp at the water faucet. If you want a warm rinse, this is one way to get that (the SQ TC5 does not have a warm rinse either). Most of my washes are warm, so I could just leave the faucets set that way and be fine. In this case, the ONLY time one has to have a line hooked up to the hot is to run the clean washer cycle, which can only be accessed by following instructions in the included tech sheet (I have a video on this too). Connecting with a Y to the cold and a line to the hot, you will have crossover. So, you will not have a true tap hot for any cycle unless you turn the cold off. I don’t use fabric softener, so I am fine with cold rinses and the savings to my gas bill.

I was reading through the comments, and this lower water temp is a deal breaker for some. If Eugene also finds this, he needs to correct that. I believe mine is one of the first releases, so I don’t know if that makes a difference or not. My tub also has one row of holes going down instead of groups of two lines of holes going down. This washer, like the TC5, is meeting the eco guideline through that Normal cycle.

I have a few videos on the Maytag under this user name on YouTube. You really can’t beat the clean. When SQ had their ten-year parts AND labor warranty, I really wanted to find a reason to get the TC5 (I would NOT buy the TR series). I couldn’t. The Maytag has worked well for me. Seriously unless you have the Samsonite gorilla in your hh that has moved on to washer machines now, you should be fine.

Because the Maytag shares its parts with Maytag’s top loads actually built for commercial use with the coin boxes, I think it will be easier to find parts for later and for less. I have no training to repair this thing, but I can replace almost anything myself. The plastic parts that are likely to fail are the splutch, the agitator base getting stripped, or the plastic piece under it getting stripped. Oh, and the dog that makes the top and bottom of the agitator move separate can wear, but so worth it for the excellent wash action.All are easy to replace and not that expensive. The dogs are like $2 or less. However, if you don’t overload, you probably won’t have an issue with those any time soon. It should be noted that that splutch is the tradeoff that keeps the Maytag from being an agitub like that TR series. I will GLADLY take that to have the better wash option where the tub and agitator can move separately. I probably wouldn’t try to replace the bearings and seal though. Also, for any washer, I think you need a special tool that you can rent or buy.

So the Maytag is $300 more than the basic Roper model, and the SQ TC5 is $550 more than it. The buyer has to decide if what they get for those differences is worth it. Part of that is do you want it to last five (not everyone is going to take care of it like it should be), ten (this Maytag is built a little sturdier for those situations where someone might oops occasionally), or fifteen years?

I have a dog bed test up on that Maytag. Not only does it show how great this washer cleans, but a simple tip to balance those odd loads. I challenge someone to put that same load in a TC5. It will balance it just fine. However, the Maytag clearly wins in the performance category when it comes to bulkier items like comforters and dirtier items. I love the ten-minute soak. I don’t need it any longer.

The only time the wash temp of the Normal Eco is an issue for me is when I have a small load of towels and need tap hot. Otherwise, it is warm. Warm is what I wash every other load besides my true whites in.

 

[pinkpower4]

Plastic Parts

Plastic parts. Some of these plastic parts on a vmw model could be metal, I guess. Most of us know or have someone in our own family that decides to put these washers to the test and overload it or wash stuff in it that doesn't belong. Sometimes an oops just happens. I am still thinking the situation could cause a lot more damage if there wasn't some give in those parts.

The reason the Roper or this Maytag I have probably won't last more than five to 8 years is due to misuse or an oops where something is left in the pocket (coins, nails, bobby pin, etc.) or strings that get wrapped around the agitator. Someone who doesn't know it could be a $2 set of dogs, a stripped agitator base, or splutch is more likely to replace the whole machine. These parts don't cost much (especially for those on this board that get them for cost). If you can't diagnose this yourself, the service call and labor is what makes these washers disposable. This would include the Maytag I have as well. But it is especially true for the lower priced washers where this adds up to a significant portion of what they paid for the product to begin with.

The truth is Eddie and I will probably get the same amount of time out of our washers. I just paid extra for the warranty and a few others features that were useful to me. I was actually looking for a "Roper" type washer in that price range, but didn't see this one. I originally picked out a Maytag commercial technology one that looked most like the one I had previous to my front load. I will be forever grateful I saw Eugene and Kirk's video on the Maytag I have now as well as the others that have posted their videos. At least I have a washer that is working for us. If I had bought the one I originally chose, I would have junked it and cut my losses.

 

[s82oh]

Thank you PinkPower for your in depth review of the Maytag commercial mvwp57gw.

I actually went and took a look at it as it was on display in Lowe's, however they only carry a one year warranty.. The other model that has the 5 year limited parts and warranty (through Maytag) would be through another store and they arent expected to have it in stock until the end of March, probablly April, and is a bit cheaper. Should I wait for it? (Doing laundry at a laundromat currently and I hate it)

However they do have the Speed Queen TC5000 in stock and ready for immediate delivery.

I was just recently on the Speed Queen Facebook page and have seen lots of complaints lately with their washers in general to my suprise. Everything from fried boards, trouble finding service, horrible customer support from Speed Queen themselves, to this one lady complaining that her TC 5 shook so uncntrollably that it got disconnected from the water line and flooded her basement.. (bad springs) She begged her retailer to exchange it, and ended up with a GE.

This one repairman even mentioned that he always recommends that people buy GE washers which are "better and cost a fraction of SQ".

That leads me to my next question to you all. What have your experiences been like with GE washing machines? It looks like GE has also launched a "commercial" washer to rival with the Maytag and SQ, does anybody have one? Model: GTW525ACPWB.

Anyways.. seems like there are issues with anything you buy to the point where you don't know what to buy. I never knew buying a washer this time was going to be this difficult. I feel with buying a new washer nowadays, you're either lucky, or very unlucky if you end up with problems on a regular basis.

 

[eurekastar]

GE washers which are "better and cost a fraction of SQ&#

That is obviously a post by an anti-Speed Queen troll.  Don't believe it!  I purchased a GE top-loader back in 2017 and couldn't wait to get rid of it.  The vibration during the spin cycle was intolerable.  The washer was LOUD, it would easily go off balance, or it would simply vibrate out of place.  What I experienced is a common complaint on the internet.  Purchase the Speed Queen TC 5000.  You'll be glad you did.

 

[rp2813]

I would avoid GE.  Their appliance division was bought by Chinese appliance manufacturer Haier so that's what you'd be getting.  GE has had a bad reputation for quite a while, even before the Haier sale.

 

Negative reviews as horrible as the one you read about Speed Queen tend to be anomalies and are often a case of user error or ignorance.  I am by no means a Speed Queen booster, but they are built to last longer than any other top load machine on the market for home use.  Do some research and find an authorized service agency that has a good reputation.  Yelp is your friend.   The only thing I would recommend against is electronic controls.  As far as I'm concerned, they aren't as user friendly as knobs and dials, and if the slightest thing goes wrong with them, it's replace the whole mess for big bucks.  I am definitely not a fan.

 

So if you can afford the high price tag, go for it.  I wouldn't be able to put up with going to the laundromat for very long at all so I can relate to your desire to get it over with.  

[this post was last edited: 2/14/2021-23:45]

 

[stuftrock1]

The only experience I have with GE washers is my 1986 GE filter flo. Beyond that, I'm afraid I cannot offer any valuable insight.

Honestly, your best bet would be to just go to a used appliance store and buy a refurbished direct drive. Parts for those things are dirt cheap and they are incredibly easy to service. On top of that, they have better performance and cleaning power than even the TC5. Even the best of today's brand new stuff just can't compete with the washers from back then.

So for your question asking which new top load washer I recommend... My answer? None of them. Even with Speed Queen, you will be taking a relatively high risk of something going wrong for the large amount of money they cost.

Go buy a refurbished direct drive or even a twin belt Maytag if you're part of the anti-direct drive minority.

 

[panasonicvac]

If it were me, I would get the Speed Queen. The GE is a fairly new washer with unproven reliability that was released to the market recently, it may not last you for 10 years like your old Amana depending on the usage. The Maytag was released not too long ago, but based on the parts and the components that I've seen inside between the Maytag and the SQ, I'm betting the Maytag wouldn't last as long as the SQ. SQ themselves tested that these washers are designed to last 15-20 years or maybe even 25 depending on the usage. I follow SQ's home laundry page on FB and I can tell you that I don't believe everything critics would say about their products. In fact, you're also going to find the same results on Maytag's and GE's FB pages as well I can also tell you that. If I were you, I would get the SQ while it is in stock at your dealer because once they're out, they may take months before the next shipment comes out.

 

[slb77]

That GE is basically the same as the other GTW series washers that have been out for the last like 6 years. The only differences i saw between that one and the lower end models like the GTW465 is a different lid lock and the gearcase is metal not plastic. I believe it has a higher hp motor too. Between the GE TL machines and the Whirlpool/Maytag VMW toploaders, i like the VMW machine a little more, the drive system on the GE is almost a copy of the VMW, the only major difference being the spin/agitate shift mechanisms and how the control measures basket speed. Have not seen as many gearcase issues on the whirlpool, but plenty of GE machines with oil leaks, especially the plastic ones.

 

[vacerator]

Definately Not

A Samsung! See if you had to choose thread above.

 

[greenwingmacaw]

Best TL washer for a home with 4 Macaws and sheets to wash?

Hi, thanks for the add! I have turned my home into an aviary for my 4 large Macaws. My flooring in each room is vinyl planking, and king/queen size sheets cover the floor for all of the food and bird poop that falls from each bird throughout the day. Initially my Bosch FL washer took care of all the sheets with no plugging of the washer drains, but since I need to wash throughout the day, eventually the motor failed and I decided to upgrade to a $3K set of Speed Queen FL washer and electric dryer. Soon after, the drain holes in the SQ washer became plugged, which never happened on the Bosch washer. Fortunately a local appliance store rebuilds and sells the older Kenmore TL washer model 110.22932100, see picture below. Initially the washer ran perfect, no clogging at all, but 2 days ago, the control for the wash setting no longer works, and the spin cycle stoped working. The washer can be repaired with a 'used' control, but i am wondering if I should buy a new SQ top load washer, but I am not sure if the drain holes in the tub will also get blocked from the bird poop? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 

[combo52]

Best Washer For Bird Lovers

The holes are too small in SQ TL Washers as well to remove lots of .... , with higher speed spins basket hole size has been reduced to avoid clothing damage and as always manufactures want to keep foreign objects out of the drain system so they have kept the holes as small as possible yet large enough to allow sand and grit to wash away.

 

Your best bet is to fix your older Kenmore TL washer or shake out the sheets outside and get the SQ FL machine back.

 

John L.