What constitutes a good rinse?

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good rinse

I have two Maytags...a '97 Dependable Care with a very short (15 sec) spray during the first spin, a 90 second deep rinse and another 15 second spray during the last spin; and an '87 A612 with a 90 second spray during the first spin, a 90 second deep rinse and no second spray during the second spin. I can use Tide in the older one...the machine rinses well enough to not make me itch, but I can't use it in the newer one, so IMHO, the more water used in the rinse, the better.
 
Tide sucks for Towels in my TL machine..even with 3 15 second spray rinses when using the extra rinse option..there actually at times seems to be more suds in the last rinse, though the water itself is fairly clear.
 
If i am washing an all towel load set for maximum water level..i use about 1/2 to 3/4 of a scoop that Tide supplies with their product.

Most other loads i wash rinse out well without an extra rinse, especially an all white load which i frequently wash.

Took a chance and started using A&H again which gives better rinsing and cleans well also. This box is almost finished though and will probably try something else.

Anyone out there know of a good detergent that cleans well and rinses well? I guess i will just bounce around to various brands...preferably powder if i can help it.
 
I wish my Hettie had about four 15 second spray rinses during a spin. I've always felt that water spraying into the clothes while they are extracting was a good supplement to a deep rinse.
 
Ariel sucks for rinsing! Persil powder rules!!! thanks Jon!

Strangely I have stopped using the extra rinse on my AEG W/D. It seems to use more water for the 3 rinses and longer agitation.
My ideal would be the usual low wash water levels, recirculation pump and water baffles, fast spin after wash, then "halfway up the door" level rinses of the 80's machines with a 1200 spin in between. The worry of creasing with an after wash high spin is a no go-er cos the rinses seem to get rid of them on a cotton cycle. High level rinses for easy cares and delicates with maybe one low spin after 2nd rinse of 3 would work for me too!

Have to say I was disappointed with the Commercial Miele at work. The lowest of water levels is used for both wash and rinses on the wool programme in my opinion is just not right.It moved 1 turn in each direction with hardly any water at all every minute or so... Sorry Miele, you got it wrong this time in my opinion!
 
Actually one does not need lots of water to wash wool with modern commercial wet cleaning processes. This could be the reason your commercial Miele washer uses so little water.

The more water wool is floating about in gives fibres that much more water to absorb, and absorbtion of water can cause wool to shrink/distort. Also wool does not attract nor hold soils,so long and or aggressive washing is not necessary. This is especially true if spots and stains are treated beforehand.

Managed to nab some "wet cleaning" detergent and fabric conditioner. Directions for items marked "dry clean only" call for a 5-8 minute wash cycle, low water, slow dipping at first, then long pauses,dips, then long pauses again (this detergent works independant of mechanical action), drain, short spin. Rinse is one cycle again with low level water and the conditoner for about 5 minutes,drain then extract for a short period on fast spin. My cashmeres and other woolens have never been cleaner and softer using this method, with no shrinking, stretching or fading. Best of all the conditioner and detergent block wool fibers from absorbing water and protect from a short fluff period in the dryer (less than three minutes).

The above method works so well haven't used the "Wool" cycle on my vintage Miele,which by the way fills up to about 3/4 or more than a half drum of water. Only time really use that cycle is for laundering bulky items like down filled pillows.

L.
 
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