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"Dirty Little Energy Secret:"

Spot on Sandy! Though, with polticians', businesses and economists' thinking still deeply ensconced in the 'continuous growth economy' as well as the current global economic model we will see more of such wastefulness. In another 20 years there will be nothing to distinguish American, Asian and European appliances anymore. The appliance industry sector already has become an oligopoly; very few global manufacturers who basically share the same product platforms and technologies.

We can already see the difference between the general run of the mill big-box store stuff and those product lines that appeal to the snob value of the moneyed middle class.
 
Did I hear mention of a Bobload?

For having a single wash arm on the bottom and the constant rinse on top this machine holds a lot of dishes. With a load in the lower rack like this I can still get stuff to flip over on the top rack. Not too shabby for a machine that's almost 40 years old.

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Here is mine..

I have had only a couple of issues with this machine. I have to say that without this site I wouldn't have been able to resolve them though. Thanks to VaricycleVoice (Todd), Stevet (Steve) and Dishwashercrazy (Mike) I suspect this machine will be running for many years to come.

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Beautiful Superba

Chach--that is one fine KA--love the stainless panels!!

Sandy--what you said about the modern appliances is dead on! We were walking through Sears recently and I, of course, had to walk through the appliance section to see what was on the floor. I started looking at all the dishwasher models and opening doors, etc. Have you noticed how the entire door and control panel flexes when you pull on them! All of the WP built units seemed to do this--even the stainless fronted KAs selling for major $$. It was sickening how cheap these felt!

To add to that about fridges, we had to replace a modern Amana, freezer on bottom model, due to the SECOND compressor going out in 7 years. Not to mention various other POS parts going out. It was replaced with a Samsung as at the time Samsung was the only one offering a 5 year warranty on the sealed system and compressor. Meanwhile, the old GE in the basement, bought in 1980 from Rich's, was till chugging along--heck the ice maker was still the original.

It is frustrating!
 
Their dishwashers washed way better.

Actually, it was not until the 15 series that KA dishwashers were highly rated. In their first testing, the Hotpoint rated higher than the KA. KA machines were said to require more dish preparation than some other more highly rated brands. The company's conservatism kept their performance down. KA was late with a detergent dispenser that allowed a pre-rinse to help get rid of some soil and warm up the load and the machine. KA was very late with putting a heating element in the tank for boosting water temperature during wash. This could be seen in the results. KA based their reputation on being manufacturers of institutional machines, but the fact was that in institutional settings, a large dishwasher is filled with water once per meal service and then the water temperature was kept hot by a steam, gas or electric booster and the overflow from the final 180F rinse back into the rinse tank, from there into the wash tank and from there to the pre-wash tank. Even in the undercounter machine like the UM 4, repeated runnings and an external booster for the 180F rinse water kept the machine hot. Nothing kept the home machine hot so it started each cycle cold and even with 160F water, the wash water was usually 120F or below because KA did not have a detergent dispenser that would allow for a pre-rinse to warm up the machine and give some extra washing time. Consumers' Research Bulletin, I think, measured the wash temp of machines around 1960 and the results showed that machines without a pre-rinse had very low wash water temperatures, with the surprising exception of the Westinghouse with the thermal delay in the timer that guaranteed 140F wash water. Most of the dishwashers of the day were OK for fresh, soft soil on dishes, the KAs included, but most were not what could be called great, especially the KA series before the 15. By the time of the 14s, they began to be noticibly smaller than others in the field and had restrictive loading. I'm not saying that the machines before the 15s are not interesting machines and fun to use, but they were not state of the art in performance.
 
Tom:

Many years ago, in Chattanooga, TN, I heard a 10 washing in a posh house on Missionary Ridge, the ritzy residential part of town.

That was the '70s, and I really only remember thinking, "Goodness, that thing's old and noisy!"

My consciousness has since been raised, LOL.
 
I wish the government would stay out of my Washer, Dishwasher, Refrigerator and not tell me what kind of lightbulb I have to have. We have plenty of water here in Alabama-- not that we should waste it, but when an appliance no longer serves it's intended purpose, what good is it?
 
I can't wait!

I am so excited for my KDs-17!
I know it's not particularly water efficient (but I will wash so well)
What about its energy usage? And noise level?
Thanks
All
 
SS Doors For The New KDS-17

I would imagine that you your be more likely to find them in the US as I am sure the great majority of  the KD-16 and 17 series machines were sold here. the SS panels will work from any 16 or 17 DW. You should note that KA sold both brushed chrome and real SS panels for these DWs, they look pretty similar. The BC panels are slightly yellow where as the SS has a slight blueish cast, you can easily tell with a magnet as the SS will not attract a magnet. The SS panels were more expensive and I would consider better as the BC panels would often get pretty rusty on the back and because of KAs silly venting of the hot steamy drying air under the bottom of the upper door panel the bottom edge of the top panel often rusted through at the edge.

 

Two other options for having a SS front would be finding a trim kit for a KA 15,16, or 17 DW and having flat SS cut to fit or you could have the current steel panels repainted at an auto body shop a really nice silver, you may even want to try this yourself.
 
One thing:((

Bit worried about the drying part it looks rusty, can I fix it? Can I still run it though a cycle before I do fix it? Before the first cycle what should I do for a prep??

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NICE!

Thats a neat looking KA you've got there. Before even attempting to plug in, I believe there may be a flapper for the fan assembly here that blocks water entering there. The rust may indicate it was removed or never installed in the first place. 

 

Next, you'll want to fill the tub with HOT water, up to near the top of the filter plate, you may also wish to add some cooking oil in to help lubricate stuff. This will help you check for leaks. 

After soaking for around an hour, you'll want to PLUG IN the dishwasher (outside or in your garage) and start a cycle, and confirm it is pumping water (you should hear it). I cannot remember the RPM of the spray arm, but it is something like 42rpm. (Count to four = 1RPM and keep a tally for 10 seconds, then times your answer by 6). After confirming that it is actually spraying, hit the "Cancel" button, to check Rapid Advance operation and drainage. Note: You may wish to start the dishwasher and allow it to advance past the filling stage before adding water, incase there is an initial pump out stage before the washing begins

 

Once this completes, I would proceed to connect the machine to any water supply, to test the fill valve. You may wish to add detergent to the right hand cup (with facing machine with door open) and shut that. Add detergent to other cups if running a Soak "N" Scrub cycle or Sani Cycle. All 3 detergent positions are used for Soak and Scrub (someone correct me if I'm wrong). 

Choose between Soak and Scrub or Sani Cycle - bearing in mind neither have a properly heated Main-Wash period, only a small heating element to run and maintain water temperatures during the Wash. Though being an AU model it may very well have a higher powered heater, that will run during the wash for a hotter wash, although this is unlikely. See for yourself, remembering that when you open the door, the cycle selection is reset, so you must reset the cycle you were using. 

Sani Cycle superheats the water in the final rinse. On a cold connection, it will take a LOOONG time... Don't interrupt the machine. 

During the Main-Wash period, (Check indicator light), open the door and observe that the water level is up to around the top of the filter assembly. If not, your water pressure is too low or the fill valve is caked with sediment (Unlikely in Melbourne - Very soft water over there I hear). You should be able to trip the door open switch and start a cycle to observe full fill - it should be around 9 quarts of water. Checking the fill in the Pre-Wash phase is ill-advised, as the machine goes to drain almost straight away after the first fill. 

 

When you have decided the machine is 100% serviceable and you want it in your kitchen (or someplace else as a "play-toy"), you will to remember to give the dishwasher a HOT water connection, with a temperature of at least 140ºF/60ºC. The hotter the better. Up to 158ºF/70ºC would be the most practical and will guarantee superb washing results each and every time, provided that the machine is loaded correctly. It will also save some energy, if you are heating water with a Solar heater, Heat Pump or Gas water heater (esp. on the Sani cycle - where the water is super-heated to around 75º. You don't need to use heated drying on this cycle!)

 

Please remember this is only information I've collected from reading here and the KitchenAid booklet "Secrets of the Inner Circle." Other more knowledgeable members will be able to correct me on anything I've said that is incorrect. Please take care! This is a real treasure you've got - especially in Australia!
 
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