Whirlpool Calypso set!

[davy1063]

Demo Mode

Jamie,

The Sales Demo mode is activated by pressing:

SOAK - WATER TEMP - SOAK - WATER TEMP

Within 5 seconds, "Sd" should show up on the LED display and it should start running. You can turn it off by hitting the "STOP/CANCEL key.

Davy.

 

[rinso]

I always thought that the Calypso had the best top loader washing action available at the time. It's too bad that WP/KM could never get the reliability issues ironed out. These poor machines never had a chance to prove themselves. The Oasis/Bravo/etc. washplate design based on the Fisher-Paykel is good but the Calypso had better circulation of laundry and did a better job of coping with large, bulky items.

 

[jaxsunst]

You can get to the pump by removing the back. It should be on the lower right hand side if memory serves. It is very easy to remove and replace.

Andrew does a neat trick with a chopstick to defeat the lid switch. You just need to make sure you have it hooked to a power strip because you have to turn the power off to it (or unplug, replug) to reset. I think I have the repair manual somewhere in pdf format. If I can find it, I'll email it to you.

 

[jaxsunst]

I found it!!!!!

I emailed it to the address on your profile.

 

[andrewinorlando]

I think that to remove the water pump (complete unit) you have to lay the machine in its back and remove the pump from the bottom. The replacement one piece pump will replace either the original two piece pump or the newer one piece pump.

 

[pulsator]

Ok, here is the scoop!

Got the washer in the basement and decided to see what it could do! First thing I did was pour some hot hot water in. Then I set it to demo mode and it came up with the CL error and didn't move. Looked it up and then tried it again, this time it started to nutate! YAY!!! Next I tried to set it to spin, which it did, but there are some odd noises that worry me! The pump did not come on at all at first so I turned it off and let it sit with the hot water. Came back a few minutes later and tried it again, the pump came right on!

After doing those things successfully, I couldn't help but try the quick wash cycle to see what it can do! So, I set it for a hot quick wash and it started filling then stopped and began draining, it drained out all the fresh soapy water then proceeded to display the long drain error. So I set it for the spin only again and it starting pumping water full force again, I guess it wasn't empty after all? The pump went dry again and then I opened the lid, closed it, and hit start again, it started pumping full force yet again! I did this until no water was coming out of the drain with each restart. Then, it went through the quick cycle pretty well, it doesn't really spin after the wash but it does do a series of fresh water showers while draining! After that finished, it started the rinse and I was shocked to hear the nutation was very very loud so I opened the lid and noticed that the water was a bit above the wash plate! I don't think that is supposed to happen! Must've been the pump draining issue again? Next, after I drained all the water away, it went into the final spin... There are some WEIRD noises coming from it! First off, it sounds like I can hear the bearings rubbing slightly which leads be to believe the bearings might be shot? Next, I heard a rubbing sounds that came and went similar to dragging the point of a knitting needle or butter knife on a semi-smooth surface... The suspension is a bit noisy when I move the tub, perhaps that has something to do with it? The brake pads are LOUD as can be, not a squealing noise, but like they are made of sand paper! Four other things I noticed, the cap of the wash plate is quite loose. The rubber seal around the edge of the wash plate no longer touches the tub. There appears to be something in the sump, I can't tell what it is, but looking through the clear plastic, there looks like something is in there! Finally, the plastic tub ring is loose and appears empty? Is there supposed to be fluid in there?

I want to tear this machine apart and give everything a good cleaning and checking over but I can't even figure out how to get the top off! I'd like to try and restore this machine if it doesn't seem ridiculously far gone, but I don't think she had an easy life! There are bleach spill marks on the paint, it seems to have taken off the finish, the front it a bit scratched, the lid got a bit crushed on one corner leaving it with some rust, the seal on the lid is just plain falling off and there is some serious soap scum build-up around the dispenser! Is this machine worth saving?

 

[ttuee2006]

Doesn't sound like saving to me. And I'm the one who just restored that disgustified Highlander!

The Calypso wasn't known for durability, and it sounds like it's going to need a laundry list of parts. For that machine, I can expect it'll be EXPENSIVE to get everything you need! Just from all the problems you stated, it sounds like something I'd pass on....

That's just my opinion tho.....

 

[DADoES]

One's first Calypso is exciting for sure.

Sounds like there is some problem with the pump. There shouldn't be any draining at the start of a cycle. The water level should never be above the wash plate. Normally a Flood error should occur if it gets that high and the pump comes on in drain mode, but maybe it hadn't gotten quite high enough. Take the rear panel off your console, check if there are one or two pressure switches. If two (one OPR and one FLD), it's the original design. If one, it's the changed design with flood sensing integrated into the control board.

The spin noise is probably the brake dragging and isn't a particular concern long as it gets up to speed. One of mine does that quite a bit during acceleration until it gets up to 500+ RPM. If the machine has sat unused for a while, the dragging may get better after some use. Leslie told me the drive shaft bearing is pretty robust.

Calypso suspension does tend toward creaky/noisy, and the spin brake is quite strong.

If you mean the gray balance ring that sits atop the basket beneath the tub ring, it shouldn't be particularly loose, and yes, it should be about half-filled with liquid.

There are two check-balls in the sump. They work with the bidirectional pump to help insure the water flows properly.

To raise the top, remove the Whirlpool logo on the front trim (assuming it's there). Remove the screw behind it, then the top raises up. Residual water in the dispensers likely will spill out when the top is raised. The front panel is held by four screws along the top edge.

Disconnect the fresh water inlet hose from the tub ring. Unsnap and remove the tub ring. You can then pull off the balance ring (three tabs snap it to the basket) to check if it has leaked dry. The recirculation tube can be removed by releasing the tab that anchors it at side of the tub then pulling it straight upward. It's a rigid tube that presses onto a plastic nub at the sump.

The wash plate gasket doesn't necessarily need to contact the basket, but there shouldn't be very much of a gap.

If the center dome is loose, one or more of the four tabs may be broken. Remove the the outer dome. If the inner dome is brown, it's the original-style u-joint. If white/translucent, it's the newer design.

Diagnostic Mode (instead of Demo Mode) is accessed via Soak - Cycle Signal - Soak - Cycle Signal. Then press Water Temp once to initiate manual control. There'll be a click when the relay energizes. The lid switch must be closed for the pump or drive motor to run. Extra Rinse runs the pump in drain mode. Soak I think runs it in recirculate. Selecting a water temp runs the water valves per the wash temp. The Soil Level button switches the water flow between the four inputs -- detergent dispenser, softener dispenser, bleach dispenser, and fresh water spray. The water stops running if the pressure switch is triggered. Pressing a cycle button runs the drive motor at the slowest speed on Whitest Whites to faster speeds across the panel. Rinse/Spin button switches the drive motor direction (spin or nutate).

Jackson said he sent the service manual to you. Have a read through it. Anything that isn't clear, those of us here who have done Calypsos can assist.

As for whether the machine is worth refurbishing ... that depends on details of the condition, and how enthused you are about getting into it and willing to go the distance, however far that may be.

 

[DADoES]

To add further, I'm glad I went ahead with repairing the one I've done thus far. I got the basket covered by warranty, but I would still have done it if it hadn't been covered. One more waiting to be refurbished, it appears to be OK mechanically but the cabinet has more rusting.

 

[pulsator]

Well, I've got the top, tub ring, and balance ring off but I can't get the outer dome off to save my life! How is that supposed to be removed with the 2 flat head screw drivers? It seems to do absolutely nothing when I push them into the slots... I want to get to the sump because there is definitely something in there and I want to check around the out tub for other foreign objects. Also, with the top up, I ran the demo and that dragging noise that comes and goes during the spin appears to be the brake pads as whenever I hear the noise the whole inner assembly lurches as if it's stopping. What does that mean? Where are the brakes? What do I need to do to them??? lol

 

[andrewinorlando]

To get the center hub off, press the two screw drivers into two of the four tabs that are located at opposite sides of the hub. Remember, it's only plastic, and it can be broken, though not easily. If you press the screw drivers inwards, the hub should release as those two tabs disengage their grip on the assembly, and you should be able to pull the hub off. If I remember correctly, there are 4 clips that hold that hub on; releasing two with the screwdrivers releases the hub. Use a screwdriver whose blade is almost as wide as the tab to make it a little easier. A small, wimpy screwdriver won't do it. You have to push pretty hard for it to release....just apply uniform pressure in even increments until the thing pops. Under the hub, you will see the inner dome that Greg described previously.

The wash plate is held in by 6 nuts each with its own gasket. Whirlpool does NOT recommend re-using those gaskets once the wash plate has been removed. If your machine should need a new u-joint and leveler, these will come included with those. I can't say for sure whether or not re-using these presents any problems, but maybe Greg might know? Once you remove the wash plate and the inner dome, you need to check and see if the boot on the leveler assembly is torn or not. This is what sits right under the inner dome. If it is ripped, you will most likely need a new leveler and u-joint as water has gotten in there already. This was more problematic with the original Calypso which has the brown colored inner dome. Hope this helps....

 

[DADoES]

Pry the screwdrivers at tabs 90° apart on the dome. Once those two are released, you can then pry on a 3rd tab if needed to fully loosen the dome.

 

[DADoES]

RETRACTION! CORRECTION!

The original-style inner dome is TRANSLUCENT, with yellow u-joint boot. It also uses a rubber gasket that fits around top of the u-joint to seal beneath the inner dome.

The NEW-style inner dome is BROWN, with black u-joint boot. It does not use the separate rubber gasket, but there is a thin foam ring/gasket that fits atop the u-joint over the six grommets. The foam gasket is NOT included with the seal kit (it is included with a complete u-joint kit), and I've not been able to find info on whether the foam should be replaced at each disassembly or can be reused.

Parts must not be mixed-up between the two styles.

Not having historical experience with Calypsos and reusing seals after a disassembly, I can't say what's the risk. I imagine there are any number of DIYers who disassembled their machines to retrieve a sock or some such that got pulled under the wash plate and didn't replace the seals. Whether that's a contributing factor to subsequent u-joint failures ... who knows?

 

[coldspot66]

Does anyone know how to get the u-joint off?? It seems like it's fastened to a drive/tub block. Mine also has rubber backing from a throw rug plugging up the outer tub. I need to remove the inner tub to get to it.

 

[DADoES]

A spanner nut is involved atop the u-joint, it holds the u-joint and basket to the drive shaft. Standard Whirlpool spanner wrench required to remove it. Sometimes in a pinch a chisel or block of wood and a mallet can be used, but a proper spanner wrench works so much more nicely.

Note that if the u-joint is pulled, the pink o-ring beneath it that fits on the basket hub is supposed to be replaced, and also the six rubber grommets on the wash plate bolts. A seal kit is available. If the basket hub is corroded, it'll need to be buffed clean.

When tightening the spanner nut back down, don't overdo it, but it must be tight enough to secure the basket to the shaft. Pull upwards on the basket, it must not slip on the shaft. That's where I ran into a glitch on my refurbishment, tightening the spanner nut. The hub broke loose from the basket, causing the hub and u-joint to slip/rotate when I whacked the spanner wrench to tighten it. The problem wasn't apparent until I ran a spin and the whole thing vibrated violently.

 

[andrewinorlando]

If you're finding articles of clothing or other such stuff below the wash plate, change out the gray ring that runs along the outer perimeter the wash plate. It's cheap insurance against future re-occurrences. It may be damaged. Judging by the condition you say that machine is in, it sounds like it had a hard life, and was pretty well abused.

 

[iheartmaytag]

My Nephew and his wife purchased a new Kenmore Elite Oasis for Christmas, against my recommendation, what did I know after all he's a doctor.

Anyway, today at lunch Niece in law was complaining. The clothes are all tangled and twisted and everything has to be ironed.
"Don't load so much." I said
"But it says it will take 26 pairs of jeans."
"Yes, but just because it says it will, doesn't mean it should."
She is trying to see if Sears will take it back. She loves the Steam dryer though.

 

[pulsator]

Pump issue

Well, I figured out why the pump is having problems! I took off the back panel and decided to watch it try to drain. The part of the sump nearest the black hose leading to the pump will empty almost instantly and water only trickles in to replace it leading me to believe there is some kind of blockage! The trick now is, how the hell do I get to the sump without taking out the wash plate and inner tub???

 

[pulsator]

Lid switch question

I see only two wires going to the lid switch! I know that the machine looks for opening the lid after each cycle but, could I just cut that switch out and replace it with a toggle switch?

 

[DADoES]

By removing the pump hose(s) and going through the hose port(s), that's the only other way. The sump does not open. Would have solved a heap of maintenance issues if it did, but the engineers probably decided not to do that to avoid more gaskets and seals and another potential leak source.