Whirlpool Calypso set!

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To get the center hub off, press the two screw drivers into two of the four tabs that are located at opposite sides of the hub. Remember, it's only plastic, and it can be broken, though not easily. If you press the screw drivers inwards, the hub should release as those two tabs disengage their grip on the assembly, and you should be able to pull the hub off. If I remember correctly, there are 4 clips that hold that hub on; releasing two with the screwdrivers releases the hub. Use a screwdriver whose blade is almost as wide as the tab to make it a little easier. A small, wimpy screwdriver won't do it. You have to push pretty hard for it to release....just apply uniform pressure in even increments until the thing pops. Under the hub, you will see the inner dome that Greg described previously.

The wash plate is held in by 6 nuts each with its own gasket. Whirlpool does NOT recommend re-using those gaskets once the wash plate has been removed. If your machine should need a new u-joint and leveler, these will come included with those. I can't say for sure whether or not re-using these presents any problems, but maybe Greg might know? Once you remove the wash plate and the inner dome, you need to check and see if the boot on the leveler assembly is torn or not. This is what sits right under the inner dome. If it is ripped, you will most likely need a new leveler and u-joint as water has gotten in there already. This was more problematic with the original Calypso which has the brown colored inner dome. Hope this helps....
 
RETRACTION! CORRECTION!

The original-style inner dome is TRANSLUCENT, with yellow u-joint boot. It also uses a rubber gasket that fits around top of the u-joint to seal beneath the inner dome.

The NEW-style inner dome is BROWN, with black u-joint boot. It does not use the separate rubber gasket, but there is a thin foam ring/gasket that fits atop the u-joint over the six grommets. The foam gasket is NOT included with the seal kit (it is included with a complete u-joint kit), and I've not been able to find info on whether the foam should be replaced at each disassembly or can be reused.

Parts must not be mixed-up between the two styles.

Not having historical experience with Calypsos and reusing seals after a disassembly, I can't say what's the risk. I imagine there are any number of DIYers who disassembled their machines to retrieve a sock or some such that got pulled under the wash plate and didn't replace the seals. Whether that's a contributing factor to subsequent u-joint failures ... who knows?
 
Does anyone know how to get the u-joint off?? It seems like it's fastened to a drive/tub block. Mine also has rubber backing from a throw rug plugging up the outer tub. I need to remove the inner tub to get to it.
 
A spanner nut is involved atop the u-joint, it holds the u-joint and basket to the drive shaft. Standard Whirlpool spanner wrench required to remove it. Sometimes in a pinch a chisel or block of wood and a mallet can be used, but a proper spanner wrench works so much more nicely.

Note that if the u-joint is pulled, the pink o-ring beneath it that fits on the basket hub is supposed to be replaced, and also the six rubber grommets on the wash plate bolts. A seal kit is available. If the basket hub is corroded, it'll need to be buffed clean.

When tightening the spanner nut back down, don't overdo it, but it must be tight enough to secure the basket to the shaft. Pull upwards on the basket, it must not slip on the shaft. That's where I ran into a glitch on my refurbishment, tightening the spanner nut. The hub broke loose from the basket, causing the hub and u-joint to slip/rotate when I whacked the spanner wrench to tighten it. The problem wasn't apparent until I ran a spin and the whole thing vibrated violently.
 
If you're finding articles of clothing or other such stuff below the wash plate, change out the gray ring that runs along the outer perimeter the wash plate. It's cheap insurance against future re-occurrences. It may be damaged. Judging by the condition you say that machine is in, it sounds like it had a hard life, and was pretty well abused.
 
My Nephew and his wife purchased a new Kenmore Elite Oasis for Christmas, against my recommendation, what did I know after all he's a doctor.

Anyway, today at lunch Niece in law was complaining. The clothes are all tangled and twisted and everything has to be ironed.
"Don't load so much." I said
"But it says it will take 26 pairs of jeans."
"Yes, but just because it says it will, doesn't mean it should."
She is trying to see if Sears will take it back. She loves the Steam dryer though.
 
Pump issue

Well, I figured out why the pump is having problems! I took off the back panel and decided to watch it try to drain. The part of the sump nearest the black hose leading to the pump will empty almost instantly and water only trickles in to replace it leading me to believe there is some kind of blockage! The trick now is, how the hell do I get to the sump without taking out the wash plate and inner tub???
 
Lid switch question

I see only two wires going to the lid switch! I know that the machine looks for opening the lid after each cycle but, could I just cut that switch out and replace it with a toggle switch?
 
By removing the pump hose(s) and going through the hose port(s), that's the only other way. The sump does not open. Would have solved a heap of maintenance issues if it did, but the engineers probably decided not to do that to avoid more gaskets and seals and another potential leak source.
 
Jamie, I decided not to cut the lid switch wires on mine. I added a toggle switch mounted in the console end cap by simply pushing spade terminals into the top of the harness plug. Toggle switch on, lid switch bypassed. Toggle switch off, lid switch normal.
 
Carefully, yes, if you hold down the inner dome so as to disturb it as little as possible. But to remove the basket, the inner dome has to come off, you need a spanner wrench, and the u-joint has to come off.

You haven't yet read through the service manual, right? :-)
 
Haha, nope, I'm too impatient! Besides, I might be able to unclog the sump with just the wash plate out, IIRC, there are somewhat large holes in the inner tub underneath the wash plate? I might be able to get at the problems with a long skinny pair of needle-nose pliers?
 
Correct, there are holes around the bottom of the basket. If something is in the outer tub, like a sock or sash, you may be able to grab it that way. Maybe make a hook from a coat hanger if you need to reach toward the sump in back.

When reassembling the wash plate, the bolts are supposed to be tightened in a specific sequence. There should be numbers embossed on the inner dome. An arrow for #1, then 2 through 6 for the rest. They're supposed to be tightened to a specific torque, seems like 110 or 120 inch-lbs IIRC (not at home to check the details right now). That basically means thoroughly snug, but not tight as hell.
 
With the wash plate out, you should be able to feel around on the u-joint boot to check if it's ripped. Your decision whether to go ahead and remove the inner dome for a direct view of the u-joint to confirm it hasn't been leaking.
 
Never understood why women and drag queens don't wash their undies such as bras and nylons in a garment bag to prevent just this thing from happening!!!
 
Whirlpool Calypso Dryer

Hi Does anyone have a (working)Electric Whirlpool Calypso Dryer for sale in White? I need one to match my Calypso Washer! Im in CT Please let me know [email protected]
Thanks Mike
 
I fixed the Calypso fairly easily. All I ended up needing to do was pull a bra wire out of the pump. It then worked flawlessly for 2 years or so until the u-joint seized and the belt shredded. I still have the dryer but the washer went away long ago. I very much would like to find another Calypso washer!!!

Fun fact: The name of the Calypso platform is Vanguard.
 

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