Whirlpool Direct Drive (GSW9800PW2) Pausing During 1st Spin

[DADoES]

 
Cover fasteners are 5/16" ... they're screws moreso than bolts.

Oil change isn't required if the condition is not compromised but it's reasonable to do so while having the transmission pulled and open.  I used paint thinner as a cleaner/solvent.  Best to fully disassemble the gears (except don't try to pull the main input shaft/worm gear) for access to flush all the residue.  Watch for the cam bearing disc and little ball bearing in the cavity beneath it under the agitator shaft ... don't lose them.  The disc should be oriented with the little dimple downward to the ball bearing.

 

[shanenc14]

Complete Disassembly?

DADoES,

Are you saying it's best to completely disasemble, clean and re-assemble the gearcase, like shown in this video?

Then clean with paint thinner (which I just bought), and reassemble using fresh 80w90 gear oil, and new Neutral Drain Kit?

 

[DADoES]

 
Right.  I removed all the parts and gears, cleaned them individually in paint thinner and brushed the bottom area with it.  You're replacing the neutral drain parts (which includes the big plastic spin gear) so all of that will have to come off anyway.  I was rebuilding the circa 1999 machine I did, replacing the tub support (which includes centerpost bearings & seal) and basket drive/brake (which includes agitator shaft bearings & seal) so I also replaced the agitator shaft for fresh bearing/seal surface.

The first neutral drain piece with the spring that he shows a right and wrong way ... it has a small tab on the bottom that has to fit inside the rectangular cutout on the plate.  The "wrong way" has the tab outside the plate and cutout.

 

[shanenc14]

Basket Drive Assembly

I recently replaced the Clutch, Coupler, and Pump; Neutral Drain is next on the list. Parts finally came in. I also have a new drive block/bell that's still in OEM packaging sitting around from ages ago...

I'm thinking of replacing the Basket Drive Assembly soon, because the brake pads are getting worn after about 14 years of use.

https://www.mccombssupply.com/washing-machine-basket-drive-285792-w10820043-for-whirlpool-kenmore/

While I'm that deep into the machine, what else would you recommend replacing. The machine was mfg. ~2005 according to Appliance411.

 

[DADoES]

 
Wow.  You best order that quick.  I checked that part at some other sources.  Sears has it $284!  A few others are $107, $129, and $143.  Seems either tariffs have kicked-in on it or WP is pointedly discouraging repair of DD machines.

 

[combo52]

Brake & Spin-Tube For WP DD Washers

While it is a good idea to replace this part if the seal area and bearing is rusted or scored in the top center-post area you don't have to replace it because the brake shoes are getting worn. I have never seen one of these with even a tiny bit of wear on the brake shoes.

 

The part you found is a cheap Chinese knock-off and while it might work ok I seriously dough it is as good as the WP orignal part in quality of the shaft plating  Etc there have been knock-offs of WP agitator shafts and spin tubes since the 60s and they have never held up as well as the real thing.

 

John L.

 

[DADoES]

 
Ahh, I didn't notice it's Supco ...

 

[tomturbomatic]

I consider the lack of a neutral drain a feature and not a bug.