Whirlpool LSQ9564JQ0 Troubleshooting - Spin Cycle Noise

[shawn1972ut]

My 13 yr old Whilpool washer was not agitating, so I did some online troubleshooting and ultimately replaced the coupler (plastic was broken) and agitator dogs (they were worn). When I ran a test cycle, it filled correctly, agitated better than it had in years, and drained effectively prior to spin cycle.

Once the spin cycle started, there was an increasingly loud "whining" noise (metal sliding on metal) --- vrrruuump, vrrruuummmp, etc as it increased speed. The drum spun fast and correctly, but the noise was a new problem that had not occurred in the past.

I took apart washer, verified that I'd correctly assembled, and tested again WITHOUT agitator attached, to see if I could better identify problem. As drum spun, I could see that center post (where bold holds agitator in place) would "slip" and that was most likely the root cause of the noise. Note that the ridged post would spin, but not as quickly as drum.

Based on online research, there seem to be a few possible issues. All of those issues tend to increase in cost for parts, so I want to be a bit more precise and not start replacing things that aren't necessary.

Fact that drum spins and agitates effectively leads me to think it's not clutch.

Worth noting - for years, I've had some type of brown-gold lubricant leak, which I've always assumed was basic grease. Its just a think film that develops under washer, so its not a "big" leak. This *may* be a contributing factor, but it's odd that noise wasn't a progressing issue (e.g. started long ago and increased in severity over time).

Can anyone help me narrow down to true failing part?

Thank you,
Shawn

 

[DADoES]

 
The splined shaft drives only the agitator.  It's not engaged during spin, rotates then only due to friction from contact with the shaft seals and other parts.

The problem likely is that the basket drive block is worn and probably the ears on the basket drive tube are worn down.  These parts are not visible in your picture, further disassembly is required.  If you remove the metal clip and plastic piece from the agitator shaft, you can see the top of the basket drive block and the notches that mate to the ears on the drive tube.

Access to remove the drive block requires unscrewing the spanner nut (has four notches, there's a special wrench to handle it properly, they're not expensive to buy).  The spanner nut anchors to the drive block and secures the inner drum to it and the spin shaft.  The inner drum has to come out, which of course also requires removing the machine's outer cabinet and tub cover.

If the spin tube ears are worn down, then the basket drive assembly must be replaced ... which further requires removing the transmission from beneath.

While it is a bit of a job, it's not really as bad as it sounds and is very much doable.

 

[shawn1972ut]

Thanks for the diagnosis DADoES.

Some rough numbers on parts you've mentioned is pushing $200. In theory, that's about 20-25% of cost for new washer, with the hope that my non-repair guy skills would actually get it fixed.

Wonder if its time for me to just get a new one.

 

[DADoES]

 
All priced at PartsDr.com, there are many online sources including eBay.

389140 Drive Block $9.01

21366 Spanner Nut $2.67

285792 Basket Drive $86.49

TB123A Spanner Wrench $15.39 ($11.75 at another source)

Flat-rate shipping $6.99

 

[thefixer]

On this washer and all DD's that have the fabric softener dispenser, the agitator shaft is in fact driven. It is driven by that metal clip and plastic washer there in your photo. That clip is supposed to be down on the smooth part of the agitator shaft, not up on the splined part. That may be your problem. The drive block drives the plastic washer which drives the clip which drives the agitator shaft. This is to ensure that the agitator shaft gets up to the same speed as the basket to make the fabric softener dispenser work properly.

 

[combo52]

Strange Noise While Spinning On A DD Washer With Some Miles

On it, unfortunately what you describe is a failing transmission, good news you can keep using the washer, but the sound will get louder, other good news is that it is not hard to replace the transmission, bad news a new transmission can cost almost $200.

John L.

 

[thefixer]

That was my first thought as well but after noticing the improperly installed agitator clip, I thought you should rule that out first. If yours sounds like the one in this video, then the problem is the agitate gear in the gearcase is not fully disengaging during spin. This is usually caused by a worn agitate gear cam but can also be caused by a bent shifter fork. Both are low dollar fixes but require disassembly of the gearcase. Not all that difficult if you at least have some experience in mechanical repair work. Otherwise you would need to replace the gearcase.

 

[shawn1972ut]

REALLY appreciate the troubleshooting advice DADoES, thefixer, and combo52.

thefixer - to your earlier comment about the clip not being on the smooth part - I pushed it down on smooth part, did NOT replace plastic agitator, and turned on spin to test. Sound persisted.

HOWEVER, the sound in the video is precisely the sound my washer is making. Only difference is that I don't have the occasional, loud "click" you can hear in the video.

Based on your analysis above, I'm now assuming its the agitate gear not disengaging. If I'm understanding my parts correctly, it's not a worn agitate gear cam, as that's in the plastic agitator. Because the sound continued w/out agitator installed, I'm assuming it's a bent shifter fork. Correct?

FWIW, when I installed the new plastic coupler, it wasn't a simple "tap, tap" to get it on, so I may ultimately be the cause of the bent shifter fork during my instillation.

Question now -- knowing that there has been some slow lubricant leak over the years, and now there is likely bent fork, it is out of the question for me to think I could "smooth out" the bent fork, or do I need new one?

Also worth noting, if I am indeed the cause of the original bend, I may not be well suited to open the transmission, attempt to fix, reassemble, and reinstall. Only other option seems to be a new $200ish transmission combo52 mentions.

 

[thefixer]

I'm talking about the agitate cam inside the gearcase. That is the most likely problem. Shift actuator is also inside the gearcase. Sounds like it would be best for you to just replace the gearcase.

 

[shawn1972ut]

Thank You

I wanted to say "thank you" to thefixer, combo52, and DADoES.

I replaced the gearcase this evening and it seems to have fixed the issue (knock on wood). I'm in process of running second load of the evening, so I'll keep you updated if any issues arise.

Again, thank you for the help.