Whirlpool spanner nut wrench alternatives

[kenmoreguy89]

I am trying disassembling the belt drive baby.
I figured out how to change the seal even though I am still unsure about the right seal part number (if you know please help).
Agi came off without any issues.
I tried to look to get the wrench online but plus shipping and the cheapest is going to cost me more than 30bucks and i feel bad spending that much for a tool i will end using a couple of times only.
Already the nuts and nut seals kit is going to cost me the same.
I want to change the spanner nut and drive block too as I see the slots got enlarged during the time.
I tried with a chisel and a hammer, flat screwdriver and wood piece. .but it's frozen.

Wd 40 and hair dryer won't help either.
Guess spending that money for the wrench is my only option unless some of yoy have in mind something to try.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

One slot got ruined already by the chisel banging.
I am afraid to ruin the tub lip under and or the tub enamel.

 

[launderess]

Will have to look in my stash

Think still have packet that seals came in so would give part number.

As for wrench used that cannot help you with as the service tech did work.

 

[yogitunes]

if your going to install a new spanner nut.....just cut the old one off

you could chisel through the gap opening area of the drive block....insert screwdriver and pry apart.....or use a zip tool type cutter if you have one...

installing the new one using a piece of 2x4, and a hammer....you dont have to go over tight, just a few whacks will hold that puppy down secure...

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Thank you very much Launderess.
I recall reading of other seals in your posts such as the spin tub seal.
Do you remember how many seals there were inside?
I remember reading you bought a bunch of seals but the tech ended up using only the tub one as the others were fine.
Could not find any clear tub parts diagram online which would both been helpful even to determine the darn parts numbers, tried looking around for pictures of folks both here on AWO and on google
trying to understand what exactly I was going to meet...
I knew what was into belt drive wp-km in broad terms but never actually looked carefully.
Same goes for what comcerns other parts such as transmission etc.
Anyways i managed to find a video of an older belt drive kenmore redurbishment and it does not seem a difficult job at all except for the stuck components that with my typical luck of course I am going to meet haha.
Unlucky at cards lucky in love they say...yeah..too bad I keep meeting folks more troubled than my washers
Anyways...in that video i could not actually sse other seals except the nuts ones i am going to replace and for which i managed to find the part number for the 4nuts plus seals kit, which i thought were the ones leaking in my machine.
Anyways whatever there is dowm there i am going to find out while disassembling.
The outer tub has to be removed as for the tech you hired i also hoped there could be a way to do that without taking it off, not much to save time but because i am afraid to break stuff such as the air trap plastic thing or not being able to have the pump realigned and sealing again as supposed, but I see red paste comes handy.
OTOH by removing the outer tub I can clean it carefully and carefully clean the base underneath.
Eventually treating rust.
Looking through holes in the inner tub i do not see gunk rust or signs of a rotten outer tub but a white patina, which means that it was used right with frequent hot washes.

I used it 5-6 times only and it was then put in storage for 4 years until now.
As said I am still unsure what is actually wrong with it... ran 5 cycles
with the zeolite laden detergent.
The leak decreased to just a few drops during the rinse cycle.
During the hot wash cycle it does not leak also left it soaking for a couple hhours and as long as there is hot soapy water in it does not leak.

But i want it to be reliable and replace all especially because soon i will move away and as I will pass my machines to family i want them to be 100% ok.

Yogi:
Thank you, yes i will replace it, it is dark oxidized as drive block too, I am afraid to ruin the basket lip underneath though.
I have a zip cutter also...I will try again and if it wont budge i will try the zip cutter way trying to be extra careful.
The last thing I want is to ruin the spin basket or drive shaft.
I'm whining already for the cost of the wrench having shipped a basket would mean ruining me!

 

[bradfordwhite]

Make sure you're turning the correct direction.  Some Whirlpool retention rings are counter-clockwise.

 

[rollermatic]

not sure

if it's the one you need but I see whirlpool spanner wrenches on ebay for about 12 bucks free shipping. about to order one myself to get tub nut off a whirlpool I am working on.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Keith...I am pounding counter clockwise all the videos I can see both for DD machines and belt drive have people loosening the nut pounding counterclockwise so assumed that was it.

So do you say that my nut  may get unscrewed pounding clockwise? 

 

Peter: Yup  I have seen them but all I can find  offering shipping to Italy are more expensive and have a shipping cost of $20.

 The same is for the 4 nuts and all the rest I need.

If I could find everything sold from one seller that'd be great as I will combine shipping but I got to buy everything from different sellers and each order will cost some dear money for shipping and eBay is my only source because  parts shops online won't offer international shipping in fact I was thinking about having them shipped to someone in the US and once they got everything ship to me in Italy all at once. 

I also need feet. The plastic white big screw kind.

When I got it was on casters and they probably lost the feet. 

The problem is that on ebay they all offer tracked costly priority shipping via courier not mail.

Even the 4 stupid nuts kit that would easily fit in a whatever envelope and could get shipped via first class mail are indeed costly for shipping.

I also think that the coronavirus emergency has something to do with it because I can find very few stuff available.

 

 

 

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I was told spanner nut and drive blocks are the same for all whirlpool Kenmore's.

No matter direct drive or belt driven.

Is that correct?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I have even asked the whirlpool gas dryers and top load dealer here in Italy as I know them (I even was offered a job time ago to become repair and insert person and seller for my area) if they had the spanner nut tool.

They told me that they do not, the technician said he typically used two screwdrivers...

(I will enclose pic of what he meant)

And also used a piece of wood with screws sometimes.

Which may work for young machines that did not see much oxidation as mine and anyways leaves me kinda puzzled because with the screwdrivers method you have the shaft in the way and you just can't do that.

So...not sure if that was a lie or what.

Same for the wood piece...you got to have an hole for the shaft and as hard as mine is I would break the wood first haha.

So it smell like BS.

Oh they do not have the parts either

 

 

[DADoES]

 
eBay search for "Whirlpool spanner wrench" finds bunches of them.

The attachment is included with some versions but isn't used for the WP-style nut.

IIRC reading somewhere, it's supposed to be oriented for WP/KM with the side shown in the 2nd pic engaged to the nut ... but I've always done it with the four nubs to the nut.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Glenn, offered for overseas shipping there are 5 or 6 and the cheapest is $35 in total.

As said a bit too much for my pockets considering that I will use it this time and probably the next time on my direct drive whirlpool and that's it 

I see that even places like Lowe's have the thing for $13 which I wouldn't mind to spend if I were in the United States but the problem is the shipping.

And that I'm going to spend some $$ already for seals nuts and various things....

 

[kenmoreguy89]

[No message]

 

[yogitunes]

Whirlpool/Kenmore is the typical....

lefty loosy...counter-clockwise

righty tighty...clockwise

traditional Maytags had left hand threads....not Whirlpool/Kenmore

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Oh okay, so I was doing right.

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Well I would have felt teased knowing I was doing it in the wrong direction after all that effort and after this morning trying yet another time I cut my finger as my hand slipped over the now sharp nut side.</span>

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Today I heated it smoking hot with a heat gun and sprayed wd40 before leaving.</span>

Tomorrow I will try a few more bangs or I will go grab the zip cutter and go buy a new thin disc and cut it hoping not to damage anything.

 

[DADoES]

 
Part of engaging in this hobby is dealing with the co$t of required tool$ and acce$$orie$. 

Regards to righty-tighty, etc. ... are there any variations on these compact machines that spin counterclockwise, which may call for the spanner nut to be threaded opposite of the usual?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Yes but paying $35 for a stupid wrench that I will use only on one machine is a waste of money to me...

I have 30+ washers and luckily none of them required special tools.

Anyways my machine is not a compact washer it's a full-size whirlpool belt drive from 1983 it spin clockwise unlike portables.

[this post was last edited: 5/10/2020-21:07]

 

[kenmoreguy89]

[No message]

 

[bradfordwhite]

It depends on what WP made washer you are working on. 

 

Some of the compact washers for example have counter-intuitive tightening schemes for the basket retainer ring.  

 

Just make sure you know for sure what direction your particular model is supposed to be turned for the action desired. 

 

Don't just assume it's R-T, L-L

 

That way you don't take a chance stripping threads and damaging the machine.  Not to mention making the retainer tighter and taking the chance assuming it's seized.