laundry pods
I always place laundry pods in the machine before clothes to all the agitator to stir them.
I always place laundry pods in the machine before clothes to all the agitator to stir them.
Why do all newer transmission made Speed Queens low speed spin drain after main wash?
- Thread starter maytaga806
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Speed Queen at Independence Manor
The Speed Queen washers at Independence Manor where I live do the exact same thing on the normal cycle. The downy balls I use don't open, therefore I have to stay near the machines to open them as a result. This is so stupid! And yes, I use the heavy soil to get a deep rinse.
The Speed Queen washers at Independence Manor where I live do the exact same thing on the normal cycle. The downy balls I use don't open, therefore I have to stay near the machines to open them as a result. This is so stupid! And yes, I use the heavy soil to get a deep rinse.
fast/fast
I prefer fast/fast for sturdy items of various soil types, and I don't buy the foaming standpipe nonsense. I have NEVER had this issue before. The last time I used a Speed Queen that had high speed spin through and through during the normal cycle was in 2008.
I prefer fast/fast for sturdy items of various soil types, and I don't buy the foaming standpipe nonsense. I have NEVER had this issue before. The last time I used a Speed Queen that had high speed spin through and through during the normal cycle was in 2008.
I find that my standpipe suds a bit only when I used way to much detergent. With the right amount its never an issue for me. Perhaps people are using way to much detergent or the plumbing is not up to code?
cycle sequence
So how does one differentiate the cycles based on the cycle sequence alone due to that slow speed spin during the heavy duty cycle or ones that have just a normal cycle with the machine at heavy soil? The ones at my apartment do this even when set to normal. There are only 3 cycles on mine (delicate, permanent press, and finally normal). I mean, seriously! It always intrigues me as to why. I still don't get it. WHY!?! Who do they think they're fooling? I've never, and I repeat, NEVER! Had a problem with suds from the standpipe on any of them, let alone any other make and model!
So how does one differentiate the cycles based on the cycle sequence alone due to that slow speed spin during the heavy duty cycle or ones that have just a normal cycle with the machine at heavy soil? The ones at my apartment do this even when set to normal. There are only 3 cycles on mine (delicate, permanent press, and finally normal). I mean, seriously! It always intrigues me as to why. I still don't get it. WHY!?! Who do they think they're fooling? I've never, and I repeat, NEVER! Had a problem with suds from the standpipe on any of them, let alone any other make and model!
Jerome, other people have experiences different than yours. Whirlpool direct-drive washers drain at a faster rate than old-style belt-drives. There were instances of delivering a new direct-drive as replacement for a belt-drive, the standpipe overflowed during drain on the test run. Maybe from clogging, maybe from a restriction due to the size of the plumbing. It wasn't our problem to figure that out. I learned after the first incident to listen for water gurgling up in the standpipe for a potential overflow and stop it before a flood occurred. A workaround to finish the installation test was switch to slow spin to get the water drained. We advised the customer accordingly to call a plumber or whatever was required on their part to solve the problem. There were a couple instances of delivery to a garage or out-building installation with the customer not home so we left a written note.
laundry day
Today was laundry day. I used the Speed Queen machines and observed them. Sure enough, it did that low speed spin after wash. I thought I had it set to normal! And it did the early spray rinse too. The rinse water was clean nevertheless, but still! I used the heavy soil to get a deep rinse.
Today was laundry day. I used the Speed Queen machines and observed them. Sure enough, it did that low speed spin after wash. I thought I had it set to normal! And it did the early spray rinse too. The rinse water was clean nevertheless, but still! I used the heavy soil to get a deep rinse.
low speed spin after wash
Plus, wash water extraction of extra heavy fabrics like jeans and towels suffer because of the low speed spin after wash. It was stupid of Speed Queen to do that. I wish I was a fly on the wall so I can balk at the engineers for making that stupid decision to do that. It should go into high speed at every single spin on normal and heavy duty, like I said. I am not stupid, nor will I be fooled. I bet every dime in my wallet that everybody will have skin rashes due to this. Watch! I'll wait!
Plus, wash water extraction of extra heavy fabrics like jeans and towels suffer because of the low speed spin after wash. It was stupid of Speed Queen to do that. I wish I was a fly on the wall so I can balk at the engineers for making that stupid decision to do that. It should go into high speed at every single spin on normal and heavy duty, like I said. I am not stupid, nor will I be fooled. I bet every dime in my wallet that everybody will have skin rashes due to this. Watch! I'll wait!
Sadly, there is the real world. Its easier to have the washer drain slow than to tell the customer they're using to much detergent or need to spend thousands on a plumber, especially when their previous washer didn't exhibit standpipe foaming.
What GE did?
Speed Queen should've done what GE did. What they could've done is do a neutral drain, then start on slow for a minute, then shift to high speed spin. My previous GE did that. It was the post filter-flo.
Speed Queen should've done what GE did. What they could've done is do a neutral drain, then start on slow for a minute, then shift to high speed spin. My previous GE did that. It was the post filter-flo.
Neutral Drain
Very bad idea. The water washes up and away during spin drain preventing crud, scum and lint from redepositing around the outer tub, inner tub and agitator. Every washer that I've used with neutral drain develops scum rings around the agi and washtub. Things being left behind on fabric was more prevalent. Clothes also end up being clumped at the bottom wrinkled instead of being spread out across the wash-basket wall at the end of the cycle. You need a reasonably fast spin during draining which accelerates relative to the amount of water still being pumped out.
The pump out rate itself would have to be reduced, which is what a low speed spin is trying to accomplish. This is wear switching to high should come into play after the low speed spin-drain.
Very bad idea. The water washes up and away during spin drain preventing crud, scum and lint from redepositing around the outer tub, inner tub and agitator. Every washer that I've used with neutral drain develops scum rings around the agi and washtub. Things being left behind on fabric was more prevalent. Clothes also end up being clumped at the bottom wrinkled instead of being spread out across the wash-basket wall at the end of the cycle. You need a reasonably fast spin during draining which accelerates relative to the amount of water still being pumped out.
The pump out rate itself would have to be reduced, which is what a low speed spin is trying to accomplish. This is wear switching to high should come into play after the low speed spin-drain.
speed queen powerful motor
Speed Queen washers do have powerful motors. I ran one of them with bleach and hot water and the machine had very strong turbulence. The pump was also powerful especially on high speed spin.
Speed Queen washers do have powerful motors. I ran one of them with bleach and hot water and the machine had very strong turbulence. The pump was also powerful especially on high speed spin.
Neutral drain top loaders
Neutral drain machines don’t get any dirtier than spin drain machines and the clothing gets cleaner.
But worst offenders for scum and sludge, buildup or Ge Filter Flow‘s Maytag later LAT models, etc.
Every top loading washer in the world that has the capability of a neutral drain uses it, because engineers know it works better.
And I’m sure you know that Speed Queen sells their traditional transmission washers with an electric drain pump in countries where people don’t use clothes dryers much because of the problem with lint and grit being re-deposited by the spin drain.
Facts are facts.
It’s time to get your emotions out of engineering.
John.
Neutral drain machines don’t get any dirtier than spin drain machines and the clothing gets cleaner.
But worst offenders for scum and sludge, buildup or Ge Filter Flow‘s Maytag later LAT models, etc.
Every top loading washer in the world that has the capability of a neutral drain uses it, because engineers know it works better.
And I’m sure you know that Speed Queen sells their traditional transmission washers with an electric drain pump in countries where people don’t use clothes dryers much because of the problem with lint and grit being re-deposited by the spin drain.
Facts are facts.
It’s time to get your emotions out of engineering.
John.
How would a neutral drain machine get the clothes cleaner?
Speed Queen motors are rated 1/2HP, and have a centrifugal controlled start winding with a capacitor in series which provides a fast, powerful "kick" upon start up. Pump out rate is excellent, I even removed the molded reducing orifice at the end of drain hose when I installed my Speed Queen washer in late 2013.
I think all top load washers should have at least a 1/2 HP drain pump, and ideally a 3/4 HP drive motor- minimum. A separate drain pump is a reliability issue in part due to their lack of torque. My top load 1997 GE washers had the 180 watt Italian pump, and I remember after two years the pump started to do this thing where it would slow down during drain. You could hear it. (I'm guessing threads wrapped around the impeller shaft did this based on pumps I took out at an apartment scrap pile.) The tub would start to spin while still full of water, the pressure switch would trip, re-start spin, over and over. You think that with the presence of a clutch on the motor shaft there wouldn't be a need to run the spin circuit through the pressure switch, but apparently if you hold the water level knob interim keeping the switch in fill mode the spin would cause water to come out the over-flow pipe. Funny that did not happen with the filter flos... Put a shield above the motor, ditch the overflow pipe, bring down the water/suds drag honey combs on the inner tub, attach the drain pump directly to the drive motor, beef up the clutch a bit, Goodyear belt and then maybe the Model Ts would resemble an attempt at a clothes washer.
The Models had one redeeming quality (if I can allow myself to say such a thing) in that if you turned off the drain pump while in spin the machine was very quiet. A pump attached to the main motor would have preserved most of that tranquility. But the drain pump was so noisy gargling while vibrating the base pan it undid everything making the washer the loudest appliance in the house.
I think all top load washers should have at least a 1/2 HP drain pump, and ideally a 3/4 HP drive motor- minimum. A separate drain pump is a reliability issue in part due to their lack of torque. My top load 1997 GE washers had the 180 watt Italian pump, and I remember after two years the pump started to do this thing where it would slow down during drain. You could hear it. (I'm guessing threads wrapped around the impeller shaft did this based on pumps I took out at an apartment scrap pile.) The tub would start to spin while still full of water, the pressure switch would trip, re-start spin, over and over. You think that with the presence of a clutch on the motor shaft there wouldn't be a need to run the spin circuit through the pressure switch, but apparently if you hold the water level knob interim keeping the switch in fill mode the spin would cause water to come out the over-flow pipe. Funny that did not happen with the filter flos... Put a shield above the motor, ditch the overflow pipe, bring down the water/suds drag honey combs on the inner tub, attach the drain pump directly to the drive motor, beef up the clutch a bit, Goodyear belt and then maybe the Model Ts would resemble an attempt at a clothes washer.
The Models had one redeeming quality (if I can allow myself to say such a thing) in that if you turned off the drain pump while in spin the machine was very quiet. A pump attached to the main motor would have preserved most of that tranquility. But the drain pump was so noisy gargling while vibrating the base pan it undid everything making the washer the loudest appliance in the house.
agitation
And maybe they should just beef up the agitation like on previous models. What do you think?
And maybe they should just beef up the agitation like on previous models. What do you think?
Bigger transmission, long stroke agitation. A third port on the pump going back up via hose to a flume in the tub cover.
The one major draw back regarding the filter flos was the amount of water between the inner and outer tubs. In theory the could have combined the two into one suspended unit, then hung it from 4 rods like the model Ts. Porcelain on steel outer tub, stainless steal or porcelain speckled inner tub.
I still don't like the hanging concept all that much, perhaps a milk stool suspension like Speed Queen. Or a 4 point corner design I once theorized. The Filter Flo could have been re-designed into a real washer. Though the original design would always have a charm of its own.
The one major draw back regarding the filter flos was the amount of water between the inner and outer tubs. In theory the could have combined the two into one suspended unit, then hung it from 4 rods like the model Ts. Porcelain on steel outer tub, stainless steal or porcelain speckled inner tub.
I still don't like the hanging concept all that much, perhaps a milk stool suspension like Speed Queen. Or a 4 point corner design I once theorized. The Filter Flo could have been re-designed into a real washer. Though the original design would always have a charm of its own.
strokes per minute
I remember the GE filter-flo agitated at 100 strokes per minute while the later models agitated at 154 strokes per minute. This was at normal speed. What are your thoughts?
I remember the GE filter-flo agitated at 100 strokes per minute while the later models agitated at 154 strokes per minute. This was at normal speed. What are your thoughts?
I like 100 SPM. 63 SPM like on the older Maytags is fine too. Fewer strokes but with longer arcs is my preference.
