Wilkins servis drain hose problem

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Hi Adam,
Unfortunately these twinline hoses are really hard to come by now, i remember buying one direct from Servis in the 90’s when it was under National Homecare in the UK, but that was expensive then £50 in 1994!!
You could try fixing it with a flexible proxy resin. Most replacements are done by two seperate hoses coming out the back of the machine.
Cheers
Keith
 
Hi Adam,
Unfortunately these twinline hoses are really hard to come by now, i remember buying one direct from Servis in the 90’s when it was under National Homecare in the UK, but that was expensive then £50 in 1994!!
You could try fixing it with a flexible proxy resin. Most replacements are done by two seperate hoses coming out the back of the machine.
Cheers
Keith
 
While genuine replacement spares always get my vote, sometimes one simply deal with can lay hands upon.

Going by pictures in following archived post shouldn't be too difficult to replace with a modern hose or two. Might need either one long (3.5 meter) drain hose, or one, and an extension along with a hose joiner.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?26912
 
Split hose replacement

Hello I made a new one with regular washing machine hoses and one way valves its on here I will try and find it for you :)

Austin
 
Wilkins Servis

Hi Adam, lovely Servis MK2 Supertwin you have there from 1963 and in the Ivory Cream enamel as well - even better !!

So motor, take the belt off, does the motor spin freely ??
then with belt off turn the wheel for the gearbox , does that turn freely, ??
Sounds like the gearbox is stiff / broken / thick oil and sluggish causing the motor to hum / not start etc...these usually go on forever, its usually the spin motor that dies needing new brushes..

Regarding the twinline hose, they are long gone, I would either get creative with bonding mastic and tape or find to suitable slim hoses and fit them individually to washtub and spin can...

Good Luck with the repairs and keep us posted !!

chestermikeuk-2019020115151305382_1.jpg
 
So motor spins freely

But the motor doesn't start even with belt off the motor pulley. The gearbox was stiff as the machine hasn't been used in decades but the more I turn the pulley the easier it is to turn,

adam-aussie-vac-2019020117285502498_1.jpg

adam-aussie-vac-2019020117285502498_2.jpg

adam-aussie-vac-2019020117285502498_3.jpg
 
Some motors, gearboxes, transmissions are more forgiving of being laid up for long period of time than others.

My usual is to see if manually (but gently) turning things will loosen things up; then pop things back together and see if the motor will cooperate.
 
Everything happens to you doesn't it?

Poor luv! It does seem as if you can't win, can you?

Can you glue the bit of flange back on?

Hope you can get things sorted. Know what it's like when it "never rains but pours" when dealing with a vintage appliance. Soon as one issue is sorted another pops up; it is like a game of whack a mole.
 
Pulley issue

Have you tried the machine with the pulley as it is? Personally I doubt it will make a difference as the V belt will run in the grove and I would like to bet it will not come off. The only thing it may do is cause a slight vibration but its worth a shot.

Austin
 
That pulley will shred a belt.

You can get generic pulleys from any pulley and belt supplier.

A quick google search gives me M & G industrial supplies at 3/5 Wiluna St Fyshwick phone 6280 7517. Or Queanbeyan Industrial Supplies on 6299 4199.

The pulley doesn't have to look identical to the original. It needs to have the same inner hole size (the bore), the same outer diameter and the same width groove. the groove width is named to match the belt width, so a pulley for an M-section belt is an M section pulley, a belt for an A section belt is an A section pulley and so on.

Your belt is most likely an M section, or it might be a A section, hard to tell from the photo. Take the damaged pulley in with you and they will find one to suit. The method of attaching to the motor shaft will be a grub screw, your original one looks like some sort of weird cotter pin but that isn't important, just tighten up the grub screw when you refit the pulley to the shaft. Even easier, leave the busted pulley on the faulty motor, take both motors in to the shop and show them what you want to do. Any decent industrial supplies shop will be happy to nut out a suitable replacement. The pulley should be under $20.

http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Aluminium-Pulleys.pdf
 

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