Wilkins servis drain hose problem

[gizmo]

That pulley will shred a belt.

You can get generic pulleys from any pulley and belt supplier.

A quick google search gives me M & G industrial supplies at 3/5 Wiluna St Fyshwick phone 6280 7517. Or Queanbeyan Industrial Supplies on 6299 4199.

The pulley doesn't have to look identical to the original. It needs to have the same inner hole size (the bore), the same outer diameter and the same width groove. the groove width is named to match the belt width, so a pulley for an M-section belt is an M section pulley, a belt for an A section belt is an A section pulley and so on.

Your belt is most likely an M section, or it might be a A section, hard to tell from the photo. Take the damaged pulley in with you and they will find one to suit. The method of attaching to the motor shaft will be a grub screw, your original one looks like some sort of weird cotter pin but that isn't important, just tighten up the grub screw when you refit the pulley to the shaft. Even easier, leave the busted pulley on the faulty motor, take both motors in to the shop and show them what you want to do. Any decent industrial supplies shop will be happy to nut out a suitable replacement. The pulley should be under $20.

http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Aluminium-Pulleys.pdf

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Getting better access to internals

Hey guys I need to get better access to the internals of the twin tub but am not sure about tipping it over, is it a good idea? Or can I take the front panel off the machine to have better access to it?

 

[ozzie908]

You can remove the front panel just be warned the wires on the timer etc only go so far so be careful.

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Ah ok

So how do I remove the front panel?

 

[ozzie908]

@adam-aussie-vac

If memory serves me well there is a bolt in the middle of the front panel at the underneath of the front you have to lie it on its back to get at it then I think there are some screws in the panel with the knobs you remove the knobs and you should see a screw. I am not sure what holds it at the top I cannot recall maybe someone else will chip in?

 

[davetranter]

Servis and other motors

That type of motor didn't use a start capacitor. There is a centrifugally operated switch at the 'wiring end' of the motor, operated by a weight and 'slipper' on the shaft. The contacts have probably burned (a common fault) or the shaft mounted assembly has broken down (less common, and characterised by the noise of something flying apart at 1440 rpm). Don't leave the motor energised for more than a few seconds in this condition, as the run winding will soon overheat (the motor is still effectively 'stalled'). Assuming the start winding hasn't burnt out (characterised by an obvious 'burnt' smell), the 'acid test' for a start switch fault is to get the shaft spinning by hand, then energise the motor. if it accelerates and runs, it's a faulty switch!! It may help to wind a bit of string around the pulley or shaft to provide a temporary 'pull-start', the faster you can spin it, the easier it will start. Obviously, if you ARE using a piece of string, make sure it fully unwound and off the shaft before hitting the power.

A single phase induction motor will run in either direction, so it doesn't matter which way you spin it.

All best

Dave T

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Great news guys

It’s now completely working, In September last year, I had the motor rewound as the start winding had gone, and just earlier todayI had the motor rotation reversed so that way it’s running in the proper direction, the only thing I need to do is change out both hoses to a single hose design using two one-way valves, I’ll post a video of it on my YouTube in a moment

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Here it is

 

[ozzie908]

I did post pictures of replacing the single hose

I had to do it with the only hoses available but it worked just fine. If you search on this website you will find out how I did it using non return valves etc.

Austin

 

[sesteve]

Great to see you’ve got this up and running - perseverance pays off.

Did you keep the end of the twinline hose where it connected to the pump? I used the non-return valves like Austin did but fitted them to the old hose and then connected a normal rubber drain hose off a later machine on to it which looks quite authentic and is a bit more flexible. The only issue with my machine is there is no pump on the wash tub as it has a turbulator instead of an agitator and it’s quite slow to drain due to the resistance of the valve. I’ve put a link to the thread on it as I have t got the original photos to hand

I was lucky enough to obtain a spare twin-line but it’s not very flexible so there’s a danger it might snap too so it’s not been fitted.

Enjoy - they are great machines
S

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREADM.cgi?79395

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

I had a look

And I feel like it’s beyond repair, it looks like someone tried repairing it as well