Hey guys I now own a Wilkins servis MK3 and it needs a new drain hose, what should i do as the drain hose has split, should I repair it or try to find a new one?
Wilkins servis drain hose problem
- Thread starter adam-aussie-vac
- Start date
Help Support :
Hi Adam,
Unfortunately these twinline hoses are really hard to come by now, i remember buying one direct from Servis in the 90’s when it was under National Homecare in the UK, but that was expensive then £50 in 1994!!
You could try fixing it with a flexible proxy resin. Most replacements are done by two seperate hoses coming out the back of the machine.
Cheers
Keith
Unfortunately these twinline hoses are really hard to come by now, i remember buying one direct from Servis in the 90’s when it was under National Homecare in the UK, but that was expensive then £50 in 1994!!
You could try fixing it with a flexible proxy resin. Most replacements are done by two seperate hoses coming out the back of the machine.
Cheers
Keith
Hi Adam,
Unfortunately these twinline hoses are really hard to come by now, i remember buying one direct from Servis in the 90’s when it was under National Homecare in the UK, but that was expensive then £50 in 1994!!
You could try fixing it with a flexible proxy resin. Most replacements are done by two seperate hoses coming out the back of the machine.
Cheers
Keith
Unfortunately these twinline hoses are really hard to come by now, i remember buying one direct from Servis in the 90’s when it was under National Homecare in the UK, but that was expensive then £50 in 1994!!
You could try fixing it with a flexible proxy resin. Most replacements are done by two seperate hoses coming out the back of the machine.
Cheers
Keith
launderess
Well-known member
While genuine replacement spares always get my vote, sometimes one simply deal with can lay hands upon.
Going by pictures in following archived post shouldn't be too difficult to replace with a modern hose or two. Might need either one long (3.5 meter) drain hose, or one, and an extension along with a hose joiner.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?26912
Going by pictures in following archived post shouldn't be too difficult to replace with a modern hose or two. Might need either one long (3.5 meter) drain hose, or one, and an extension along with a hose joiner.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?26912
I've fixed it but now I have more of a problem
The motor for the washing side of the machine doesn't spin even with the belt removed so there's no load on it, is there a capacitor that's died or what?
The motor for the washing side of the machine doesn't spin even with the belt removed so there's no load on it, is there a capacitor that's died or what?
...oh no, from what i can remember the wash motor doesn’t have a capacitor, it maybe a faulty terminal on the rotary dial..? Usually these go on for ever 
The motor hums but doesn't spin, even though the rotor of the motor spins freely
ozzie908
Well-known member
Split hose replacement
Hello I made a new one with regular washing machine hoses and one way valves its on here I will try and find it for you
Austin
Hello I made a new one with regular washing machine hoses and one way valves its on here I will try and find it for you
Austin
ozzie908
Well-known member
Adam take a look at the thread I did 8 years ago
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?41176
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?41176
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?41176
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?41176
It looks great
Do you have any advice for my motor problem ?
Do you have any advice for my motor problem ?
Wilkins Servis
Hi Adam, lovely Servis MK2 Supertwin you have there from 1963 and in the Ivory Cream enamel as well - even better !!
So motor, take the belt off, does the motor spin freely ??
then with belt off turn the wheel for the gearbox , does that turn freely, ??
Sounds like the gearbox is stiff / broken / thick oil and sluggish causing the motor to hum / not start etc...these usually go on forever, its usually the spin motor that dies needing new brushes..
Regarding the twinline hose, they are long gone, I would either get creative with bonding mastic and tape or find to suitable slim hoses and fit them individually to washtub and spin can...
Good Luck with the repairs and keep us posted !!
Hi Adam, lovely Servis MK2 Supertwin you have there from 1963 and in the Ivory Cream enamel as well - even better !!
So motor, take the belt off, does the motor spin freely ??
then with belt off turn the wheel for the gearbox , does that turn freely, ??
Sounds like the gearbox is stiff / broken / thick oil and sluggish causing the motor to hum / not start etc...these usually go on forever, its usually the spin motor that dies needing new brushes..
Regarding the twinline hose, they are long gone, I would either get creative with bonding mastic and tape or find to suitable slim hoses and fit them individually to washtub and spin can...
Good Luck with the repairs and keep us posted !!
So motor spins freely
But the motor doesn't start even with belt off the motor pulley. The gearbox was stiff as the machine hasn't been used in decades but the more I turn the pulley the easier it is to turn,
But the motor doesn't start even with belt off the motor pulley. The gearbox was stiff as the machine hasn't been used in decades but the more I turn the pulley the easier it is to turn,
launderess
Well-known member
Some motors, gearboxes, transmissions are more forgiving of being laid up for long period of time than others.
My usual is to see if manually (but gently) turning things will loosen things up; then pop things back together and see if the motor will cooperate.
My usual is to see if manually (but gently) turning things will loosen things up; then pop things back together and see if the motor will cooperate.
The motor and gearbox spin freely
But the motor just hums
But the motor just hums
Good news and bad news
I found a replacement motor and it works and but in the process of removing the original pulley I broke a small chunk of the flange off
I found a replacement motor and it works and but in the process of removing the original pulley I broke a small chunk of the flange off
launderess
Well-known member
Everything happens to you doesn't it?
Poor luv! It does seem as if you can't win, can you?
Can you glue the bit of flange back on?
Hope you can get things sorted. Know what it's like when it "never rains but pours" when dealing with a vintage appliance. Soon as one issue is sorted another pops up; it is like a game of whack a mole.
Poor luv! It does seem as if you can't win, can you?
Can you glue the bit of flange back on?
Hope you can get things sorted. Know what it's like when it "never rains but pours" when dealing with a vintage appliance. Soon as one issue is sorted another pops up; it is like a game of whack a mole.
Can you post a pic of the pulley? There is a slim chance I might have one.
I've also taken a picture of the original motor next to the replacement
ozzie908
Well-known member
Pulley issue
Have you tried the machine with the pulley as it is? Personally I doubt it will make a difference as the V belt will run in the grove and I would like to bet it will not come off. The only thing it may do is cause a slight vibration but its worth a shot.
Austin
Have you tried the machine with the pulley as it is? Personally I doubt it will make a difference as the V belt will run in the grove and I would like to bet it will not come off. The only thing it may do is cause a slight vibration but its worth a shot.
Austin
That pulley will shred a belt.
You can get generic pulleys from any pulley and belt supplier.
A quick google search gives me M & G industrial supplies at 3/5 Wiluna St Fyshwick phone 6280 7517. Or Queanbeyan Industrial Supplies on 6299 4199.
The pulley doesn't have to look identical to the original. It needs to have the same inner hole size (the bore), the same outer diameter and the same width groove. the groove width is named to match the belt width, so a pulley for an M-section belt is an M section pulley, a belt for an A section belt is an A section pulley and so on.
Your belt is most likely an M section, or it might be a A section, hard to tell from the photo. Take the damaged pulley in with you and they will find one to suit. The method of attaching to the motor shaft will be a grub screw, your original one looks like some sort of weird cotter pin but that isn't important, just tighten up the grub screw when you refit the pulley to the shaft. Even easier, leave the busted pulley on the faulty motor, take both motors in to the shop and show them what you want to do. Any decent industrial supplies shop will be happy to nut out a suitable replacement. The pulley should be under $20.
http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Aluminium-Pulleys.pdf
You can get generic pulleys from any pulley and belt supplier.
A quick google search gives me M & G industrial supplies at 3/5 Wiluna St Fyshwick phone 6280 7517. Or Queanbeyan Industrial Supplies on 6299 4199.
The pulley doesn't have to look identical to the original. It needs to have the same inner hole size (the bore), the same outer diameter and the same width groove. the groove width is named to match the belt width, so a pulley for an M-section belt is an M section pulley, a belt for an A section belt is an A section pulley and so on.
Your belt is most likely an M section, or it might be a A section, hard to tell from the photo. Take the damaged pulley in with you and they will find one to suit. The method of attaching to the motor shaft will be a grub screw, your original one looks like some sort of weird cotter pin but that isn't important, just tighten up the grub screw when you refit the pulley to the shaft. Even easier, leave the busted pulley on the faulty motor, take both motors in to the shop and show them what you want to do. Any decent industrial supplies shop will be happy to nut out a suitable replacement. The pulley should be under $20.
http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Aluminium-Pulleys.pdf
Getting better access to internals
Hey guys I need to get better access to the internals of the twin tub but am not sure about tipping it over, is it a good idea? Or can I take the front panel off the machine to have better access to it?
Hey guys I need to get better access to the internals of the twin tub but am not sure about tipping it over, is it a good idea? Or can I take the front panel off the machine to have better access to it?
ozzie908
Well-known member
You can remove the front panel just be warned the wires on the timer etc only go so far so be careful.
Ah ok
So how do I remove the front panel?
So how do I remove the front panel?
ozzie908
Well-known member
@adam-aussie-vac
If memory serves me well there is a bolt in the middle of the front panel at the underneath of the front you have to lie it on its back to get at it then I think there are some screws in the panel with the knobs you remove the knobs and you should see a screw. I am not sure what holds it at the top I cannot recall maybe someone else will chip in?
If memory serves me well there is a bolt in the middle of the front panel at the underneath of the front you have to lie it on its back to get at it then I think there are some screws in the panel with the knobs you remove the knobs and you should see a screw. I am not sure what holds it at the top I cannot recall maybe someone else will chip in?
davetranter
Well-known member
Servis and other motors
That type of motor didn't use a start capacitor. There is a centrifugally operated switch at the 'wiring end' of the motor, operated by a weight and 'slipper' on the shaft. The contacts have probably burned (a common fault) or the shaft mounted assembly has broken down (less common, and characterised by the noise of something flying apart at 1440 rpm). Don't leave the motor energised for more than a few seconds in this condition, as the run winding will soon overheat (the motor is still effectively 'stalled'). Assuming the start winding hasn't burnt out (characterised by an obvious 'burnt' smell), the 'acid test' for a start switch fault is to get the shaft spinning by hand, then energise the motor. if it accelerates and runs, it's a faulty switch!! It may help to wind a bit of string around the pulley or shaft to provide a temporary 'pull-start', the faster you can spin it, the easier it will start. Obviously, if you ARE using a piece of string, make sure it fully unwound and off the shaft before hitting the power.
A single phase induction motor will run in either direction, so it doesn't matter which way you spin it.
All best
Dave T
That type of motor didn't use a start capacitor. There is a centrifugally operated switch at the 'wiring end' of the motor, operated by a weight and 'slipper' on the shaft. The contacts have probably burned (a common fault) or the shaft mounted assembly has broken down (less common, and characterised by the noise of something flying apart at 1440 rpm). Don't leave the motor energised for more than a few seconds in this condition, as the run winding will soon overheat (the motor is still effectively 'stalled'). Assuming the start winding hasn't burnt out (characterised by an obvious 'burnt' smell), the 'acid test' for a start switch fault is to get the shaft spinning by hand, then energise the motor. if it accelerates and runs, it's a faulty switch!! It may help to wind a bit of string around the pulley or shaft to provide a temporary 'pull-start', the faster you can spin it, the easier it will start. Obviously, if you ARE using a piece of string, make sure it fully unwound and off the shaft before hitting the power.
A single phase induction motor will run in either direction, so it doesn't matter which way you spin it.
All best
Dave T
Great news guys
It’s now completely working, In September last year, I had the motor rewound as the start winding had gone, and just earlier todayI had the motor rotation reversed so that way it’s running in the proper direction, the only thing I need to do is change out both hoses to a single hose design using two one-way valves, I’ll post a video of it on my YouTube in a moment
It’s now completely working, In September last year, I had the motor rewound as the start winding had gone, and just earlier todayI had the motor rotation reversed so that way it’s running in the proper direction, the only thing I need to do is change out both hoses to a single hose design using two one-way valves, I’ll post a video of it on my YouTube in a moment
Here it is
ozzie908
Well-known member
I did post pictures of replacing the single hose
I had to do it with the only hoses available but it worked just fine. If you search on this website you will find out how I did it using non return valves etc.
Austin
I had to do it with the only hoses available but it worked just fine. If you search on this website you will find out how I did it using non return valves etc.
Austin
sesteve
Well-known member
Great to see you’ve got this up and running - perseverance pays off.
Did you keep the end of the twinline hose where it connected to the pump? I used the non-return valves like Austin did but fitted them to the old hose and then connected a normal rubber drain hose off a later machine on to it which looks quite authentic and is a bit more flexible. The only issue with my machine is there is no pump on the wash tub as it has a turbulator instead of an agitator and it’s quite slow to drain due to the resistance of the valve. I’ve put a link to the thread on it as I have t got the original photos to hand
I was lucky enough to obtain a spare twin-line but it’s not very flexible so there’s a danger it might snap too so it’s not been fitted.
Enjoy - they are great machines
S
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREADM.cgi?79395
Did you keep the end of the twinline hose where it connected to the pump? I used the non-return valves like Austin did but fitted them to the old hose and then connected a normal rubber drain hose off a later machine on to it which looks quite authentic and is a bit more flexible. The only issue with my machine is there is no pump on the wash tub as it has a turbulator instead of an agitator and it’s quite slow to drain due to the resistance of the valve. I’ve put a link to the thread on it as I have t got the original photos to hand
I was lucky enough to obtain a spare twin-line but it’s not very flexible so there’s a danger it might snap too so it’s not been fitted.
Enjoy - they are great machines
S
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREADM.cgi?79395
I had a look
And I feel like it’s beyond repair, it looks like someone tried repairing it as well
And I feel like it’s beyond repair, it looks like someone tried repairing it as well
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