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I use electronic sensor auto dry paired with the cycle to give me the temperature I seek. I usually select the damp dry signal to give me a heads up the load is close to being dry. End of cycle signal is alawys on.

I feel like the same can be accomplished with less, but to each his own. I never use the end of cycle, the noise always scares me. Your end of cycle signal might be softer though.

BOL control systems are easier for me to use, and more dependable I feel.
 
I agree with Bob, not too crazy about BOL appliances. Sometimes, I think BOL appliances end up being more expensive since you’ll end up upgrading to something higher end and more expensive in a few years time. Might as well invest up front in something with flexibility and options.
 
The console Chet posted above is similar, but missing the temp. selector dial. I like having one. It's also missing the cancel cycle signal/start button. I suppose a drum light is handy, but don't miss it. Have a well lit laundry area. Our old dryer had a window too. The exterior frame around it was plastic and cracked.
 
The console Chet posted above is similar, but missing the temp. selector dial. I like having one. It's also missing the cancel cycle signal/start button. I suppose a drum light is handy, but don't miss it. Have a well lit laundry area. Our old dryer had a window too. The exterior frame around it was plastic and cracked.


I know. ;) Its just that I like wrought simplicity. I like the idea of having an uncluttered control panel with super simple control system on a very featured dryer ie super capacity and as you mention a door window. Temp is handy, however me personally I do almost everything on medium heat.
 
I know. ;) Its just that I like wrought simplicity. I like the idea of having an uncluttered control panel with super simple control system on a very featured dryer ie super capacity and as you mention a door window. Temp is handy, however me personally I do almost everything on medium heat.
How hard is this? :giggle:
 

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The best dryer I've ever used happens to be a basic one. It had all the things I'd ever use, it dried the best, and my favorite feature is the lint trap cause it's so easy to clean. In case you're wondering what dryer it was, it's this Speed Queen. If I could have any dryer, that'd be it. Although, I'd rather have one where it's gas and has a old school buzzer sound.

 

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How hard is this? :giggle:


Confusing and tangential, it is easy to get lost finding the right cycle then selecting the right options that go along with it. The push buttons can wear through and the electronic components have a finite life expectancy.

I like appliances where you just turn to the desired setting already visible on the dial instead of having to hunt or program it in to the control. I wish there was a whole line of appliances like this:


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I know in your example the dryer defaulted right to regular, however if I wanted more dry, less dry, air dry, ect I'd have to hunt that specific cycle and then choose the specific options (like air dry tumble time) that go along with it.
 
Thermostatic auto dry literally accomplishes the same thing. Moisture sensors can get real screwy at times.


100% AGREE. Auto dry does what sensor dry does because it also takes moisture content into account- the more moisture in the clothes the longer the heater run time vs heater off time slowing down the overall advancement of the timer until moisture drops. Auto dry accounts for load size, dryness levels and fabric type. Moisture bars are limited because can get coated with softener residue and can be tricked by more dried fabrics repeatedly coming in contact with it.


The way I think of my ideal auto dry is like this. Start with a 140 minute timed dry timer which has 135 minutes of allocated heating. For the sake of the argument assuming the dryer has a 33% heater on time and 66% heater off time at 135*F trip, 20*F differential with nothing in the dryer you would divide 135 minutes by 3 giving you 45 minutes. Increase to 50 so the ultra dry start point decal doesn't have to rest right against the demarcation point where the contacts engage between the off period and cycle start period. Add a 5 minute cool down giving 55 minutes of max motor run time, plus a 5 minute off segment gives you a 60 minute timer at 360* so the time cycle sequence looks like this:





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This covers using the dry rack which gives the user a max equivalent performance cycle to the timed dry timer as it takes the limited load in the dryer into account.

Of note, 60 minutes divided by 8 segments = 7.5 minutes per evenly dived quadrant.

Between the start of cool down and the ultra dry decal various dryness levels are labelled on the timer- for example normal at ~20 minutes of advance time, ~15 minutes less dry, ~10 mild dry, ~5 mild dry, ect.
 
From an actual Whirlpool wiring diagram, Whirlpool seems to allow for 41 minutes of max motor run time and 36 minutes of max heater run time on a normal auto cycle:

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I'm now going to have to time the on and off heater periods on my dryer set to medium without any load to determine the ratio in order to get an equivalent run time for the dryer rack.
 
I consider this to be about the worst controls I've seen on a machine sold in the UK, it's a candy 🤮tumble dryer. I guess the symbols avoids making a different version for each country they are sold in.

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My current GE dryer that came with the home I bought has a light in the drum and four temperature options and still works well enough as a thermostat dryer. I personally don't care if my laundry appliances don't match. They both just have to work.
 
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