1956 Duomatic

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Rubber Spray

I hope that is not the rubber spray in that tub.If it is it WILL peel out.I was very sorry to see this.Wish we could have talked on the phone before you did that.The 2 part Nu Porce was the proven way to go.J B Weld also is not a good application in this situation as it softens when exposed to heat.I haven't looked at this thread for a while.Darn It.
 
Aluminum-Pot-Metal Drain Housing

The loose white stuff is corrosion, not detergent-soap residue, best thing is to just clean it up with steel-wool etc, or take it to work and lightly sand-blast or glass-bead it. If it is pretty thin you can two-part epoxy this as well.
 
John

That's what I was thinking too. So I gave it a dip in the works and that ate up all of that but what is left is detergent that had soaked in the metal if you put it in water it will suds up the water.
 
Up date

I finally got some time to work on it again as soon as the RTV sets up I'm going to snug up the bolts and if I have time start attaching the seal to the back plate if I can find clothes pins lol

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Well I got it back together. It fired right up! Went into low speed then high speed no problems. But drying~ not so much. Some how after taking it apart one of the cal rods shorted out. But other than that the dry run went good!

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Thanks for the encouragement

It needs a new belt as well I was going to go down to the tractor part store and see if they had one that would work but I figured I would ask if you guys knew of a place that would have one before I do that. now for the heating element, I was think one could remove the old cal rods and bend a bake element around to fit. dose anyone know the wattage of the factory elements? or is this just a bad idea it looks like its two 120V rods tied together so the wont fry.    
 
Jon

Thank you. I have been thinking about this for the best part of the night and I came up with an idea. Do you guys think if I made a plate and cut a hole in it at the vary rear and bolted a flange style 4,500 watt hot water heater element to it that it would work. I would have to bend the element around to make it fit but I was thinking this would be a cheep and EZ solution. I was also thinking that the 4,500 watt element would be ok as John L said before in 1956 we only had 220V serves so if one puts 240V to a 4,000W element  that = 4,500 watts. Just let me know if you guys think I have bumped my head lol      
 
That or

I fig for sh*&'s and giggles I have a 4,000 watt hot tub heater element laying around that will fit right in there all I would have to do is make a plate and drill to small holes for the element to go threw.
 
56 Duo-Matic Air Heater

Hi Anthony, i dough the water heater elements would work well, they are usually only copper sheathed and not designed to run very hot as the are immersed in water all the time. I have been thinking about this and have a few ideas, I will try to call you later.

 

John L.
 
And we are

Somewhat washing! I got to do some work to it the last few days and it got its first test with water today. I would say it went well only two leaks one at the vary slight drip on the cold water solenoid and the other being the seal on the lint screen. I would say that's pretty good. I also made a temporary dryer element plate that has two elements from some cheep China combo part # WD-2500-05. They work pretty well and have been through 4 45 minute runs now with no issues.

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