1962 WDA-62 Restoration ......

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

sfh074

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Messages
692
<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Back in 2017 I started a search for the model Frigidaire washer that my grandmother had all the years that I was growing up. She bought it new in 1962 and it lasted till 1987. </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">You know how it goes, you don't miss something until its gone. Well for the last 33 years I thought of that washing machine and I really wanted one to relive those old memories. In 2017 I found 2 of these machines and both were in poor condition. For the better part of 2+ years now I have been restoring them into one really nice machine. As usual with all my restoration projects, I wanted to restore this machine to as nearly new as possible, as close to like I had walked into the showroom in 1962 and zapped it back to 2020. </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">As most of you know, I'm the guy who started this quest but had no way of getting fresh rubber agitator parts for this machine. If I couldn't have fresh rubber parts for this machine then I wasn't even going to start this project because the money shot is what counts the most, right?! </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">So I started making my own. The cap, the lint and circulator rings and then the energy ring. I then got the wild hair to make molds for all the Frigidaire agitator rubber parts for machines from 1947 thru 1962, which I did. But that was a big side track from the WDA-62 restoration, however I have slowly gotten back on track. </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Another part that was in terrible shape was the clear plastic timer knob. I ended up making a mold for that part as well and reproduced it to perfection. </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">The only other part that was a big road block to this project was the control panel background applique. The original was silk-screened over 2 pieces of brushed aluminum and even I had no way of reproducing that! Silk screening?? No one does that anymore in this digital age. BUT ..... I went on a search to find a way to have this background reproduced .... and I found it. The funny thing, I found a company who can do this and they were only 20 miles north of me.</span>


[COLOR=#ff0000; font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif]This thread will be an ongoing post of pictures that show this restoration. I continually took pictures as I made progress but gathering them and posting them here will be a process in itself.[/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000; font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt]     Enjoy![/COLOR]


<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">To start off the first 3 pics are of the control panel applique that I had made. The trick is to take the old panel and scan it on a flat bed scanner. This took a bit of work to scan each panel in 2 sections and then join them back together in Photoshop. Once you have the entire panel, next fix all the defects and color correct the old paint. The panel I had to work from spent a few years in direct sunlight and had darkened. But an easy thing to fix in Photoshop. </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">The first 2 pics show the original panel on the bottom and the new panel on top. The panel on top, I reused the brushed aluminum pieces from the 2nd donor machine and applied the new "printed" appliques that I had made. These printed appliques are an industrial process and even come with a 20 year warranty and are UV tolerant. This process is mostly used for outdoor signage and is waterproof as well! Sorry for the photo quality. The pics don't do these justice. The overhead lighting sucked.</span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Pic 3 is the applique as received from the printer for the matching dryer (DCA-62).  The dryer is in the queue for restoration once the washer is done! Pic 4 shows contrast of the new vs the damaged original paint.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Bud - Atlanta</span>

[this post was last edited: 3/9/2020-23:24]

sfh074-2020030920304200192_1.jpg

sfh074-2020030920304200192_2.jpg

sfh074-2020030920304200192_3.jpg

sfh074-2020030920304200192_4.jpg
 
Cabinet Paint .....

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Single stage automotive urethane. I love shooting this paint. It is really forgiving ..... so long as the outside temp is under 85 degrees.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">One note. Harbor freight sells castor wheels that fit perfectly into the adjustment feet holes. Makes for easy rolling around the shop.</span>

sfh074-2020030921501807207_1.jpg

sfh074-2020030921501807207_2.jpg

sfh074-2020030921501807207_3.jpg

sfh074-2020030921501807207_4.jpg
 
A bit of sandblasting in the blast tank .......

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Cross brace and back access door powder coated .... and ready for assembly.  Can you see how retentive I am? The inside cabinet paint just as nice as the outside. lol</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">The only part I sent out for cleaning was the outer tub. Had it sand blasted. I then used KDS Rust Stop and gave the tub a coat inside and out. </span>

[this post was last edited: 3/9/2020-22:44]

sfh074-2020030921572201547_1.jpg

sfh074-2020030921572201547_2.jpg

sfh074-2020030921572201547_3.jpg
 
Some disassembly pics .....

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Impact driver on the tub bolts seems to always be necessary. And the bolts that hold the transmission in no longer resemble hex heads! (last pic)  </span>

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">As you can see, I had one white and one turquoise machine to work with.</span>

[this post was last edited: 3/9/2020-23:27]

sfh074-2020030922042309125_1.jpg

sfh074-2020030922042309125_2.jpg

sfh074-2020030922042309125_3.jpg

sfh074-2020030922042309125_4.jpg

sfh074-2020030922042309125_5.jpg

sfh074-2020030922042309125_6.jpg
 
Transmission and motor rebuilt .....

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">and ready to be installed. New motor bearing packings and saturated with fresh oil. Motor cleaned out with chlorinated solvent and a heavy coat of clear acrylic lacquer to the windings.  Also my first time experimenting with (type 2) cad plating. That is the silver plating on the U shaped trans mount and the pump mounting plate on the motor base.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">I have a full set of pics that I'll post to a separate thread on the trans rebuild. I've done 4 of these multimatics so far and will put a tutorial together showing some tricks and tips I came up with. Also the cross reference part numbers for replacement parts that I have found for NLA parts.</span>

[this post was last edited: 3/9/2020-23:29]

sfh074-2020030922141907524_1.jpg

sfh074-2020030922141907524_2.jpg

sfh074-2020030922141907524_3.jpg

sfh074-2020030922141907524_4.jpg

sfh074-2020030922141907524_5.jpg
 
Going back together .....

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Transmission going back into outer tub. All new stainless steel hardware above and below the waterline.  Inner tub hub bead blasted and its threads reworked using stainless heli-coils. Never have to worry about removing the inner tub again. No chance of dissimilar metals corroding again like alum/steel does over time. </span>

sfh074-2020030923091504824_1.jpg

sfh074-2020030923091504824_2.jpg

sfh074-2020030923091504824_3.jpg

sfh074-2020030923091504824_4.jpg
 
There is...

No shortage of words of praise, to describe the work you do for these vintage GM Frigidaire washers! Showroom new is exactly what you are accomplishing with you Frigidaire pair! I'll be coming back to this thread to catch up on your progress. Everything you've shared in these pictures looks BEAUTIFUL!

Your talent, focus, and skills are just amazing Bud! I enjoy reading your threads and I'm always shocked at the great work you do, you always impress!
I can't wait to see your Frigidaire set when they are completed!

Thank you for taking the time to post & share the pictures of your progress.
Much love & respect
:o)
 
The trans housing ....

originally had a type 1 cadmium plating. It has a golden appearance when applied to steel. Most GM automobile power brake boosters in the 60's and 70's had this plating and comes across as a bright gold.

The transmission housing however is made of a pot metal and for whatever reason the manufacturer decided to cadmium plate it. The plating comes across as a dull silvery gold when applied to this kind of metal. On areas that still looked new, I simply found a paint that closely matched and painted the transmission.
 
If this were a car show you'd be wining best in class. Concourse restoration at it's finest! Even the detail on the motor is stunning. Did you also plate the springs, too?

Aren't those hex head cap screws for the mechanism support so much fun to remove when they get this bad? *eye roll*

Would love to hear what your trick was on getting the right belt tension.

Ben
 
Little bit further .......

Almost done!

Got the control panel background mounted and the new timer knob installed. The only part I had to send out for chrome plating was the center piece to the timer knob. In a previous picture you can see how badly pitted it was. If we ever get a sunny day (supposed to rain till Sunday. ..ugh), I'll roll it outside and get some high quality photos. The basement lighting is not photo friendly and tends to distort colors, as below.

sfh074-2020031605583103347_1.jpg
 
Almost forgot about the ......

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">belt pulley bearings. Found sealed replacement bearings for the NLA bearings and swapped those out after blasting and re-plating the pulleys. You don't need a shop press to do this but easier if you have access to one.</span>

 

 

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">New pump seal and some plating work for the pump parts as well.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif; font-size: 14pt;">Bud - Atlanta</span>

 

 

sfh074-2020031608241705607_1.jpg

sfh074-2020031608241705607_2.jpg

sfh074-2020031608241705607_3.jpg

sfh074-2020031608241705607_4.jpg

sfh074-2020031608241705607_5.jpg
 
Hi Tom ....

The knob is a 2 piece design. The inner portion has the markings and was in really good condition. No fading. The outer portion took the brunt of the weather.

When you pull the knob out, the inner part will engage and spins with the outer to set the cycle. Push the knob in and the outer simply freewheels .... and starts the timer.
 
Bud, I somehow had missed your original post about the belts. If AW supported categorical stickies I'd motion to make the Multimatic belt post one of the first honorary posts!

Wow; again top notch work. The fact that you even plated the pulleys speaks volumes on your attention to detail. A shame GM didn't spend the extra few bucks on sealed bearings on those, it would have saved many a washer back in the day.

Ben[this post was last edited: 3/17/2020-13:24]
 
I agree ......

bearing manufacturing has changed a lot since then. The bearing itself hasn't changed much but the seals and synthetic grease that doesn't absorb water has. I've learned the hard way to substitute synthetic grease wherever possible because all petroleum based grease loves to latch onto water and literally sucks humidity out of the air.

I once rebuilt a transaxle on a 58 vw beetle that had 200k+ miles on it and was absolutely astounded at the ball bearings that they used. The bearings were in near perfect shape and just a hint of wear. Their longevity was attributed to great metallurgy and never coming into contact with water and of course proper lubrication. Just shows how long a bearing can last if it has the proper environment and correct sizing for the job.

As for these pulley bearings, they would have lasted if there had been a water tight seal. But back then the manufacturer called them "dust shields" and it did little to keep water out or the grease in. I've encountered 6 sets (12) of these pulleys now, and every one of them was lacking grease and rusted. Made for some pretty crunchy sounding bearings. One of them completely locked up and burnt the belt in two.
 
Back
Top