1979 Hotpoint 1509/10 overhaul

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triumphtoledo

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Joined
May 28, 2013
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200
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Shropshire/Worcestershire
And so here it starts… Before stripping the machine down, I sought to sort out the slow spin. On the forum experts’ advice, I took the clutch shoes off, found they were a bit stiff, cleaned, lubricated and cleaned the glaze off the friction material. The housing was also cleaned out with automotive brake cleaner. Once back together, the spin is far improved. Yay!

I took a close look at the cabinet and it is pretty sound; only a few rust marks and paint yellowing that is to be expected after forty years. Sadly, a jet wash will not sort it alone but I plan to sort the rust, followed by flatting the finish, applying filler primer and a wet spray top-coat.

The adhesive kick strip is in OK order but it is not worth refitting it. To ‘replace’ it, I shall wet spray a new one, as well as repainting the top cover. I shall get my local paint shop to mix up a near match, using the kick strip as a sample colour. The sales sticker peeled off but was not in very good order. I have photographed it in high-resolution, so a copy could be made if needs be, to enhance the retro look.

R

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Stripping part 1

The main fault with this machine is a nasty leak, which was dripping down from the support shaft. It appears that the leak has been present for some considerable time and I do not think that any past efforts have been made to remedy it.
Goodness knows what the old dear washed her clothes in – battery acid by looking at the state of the gubbins beneath the agitator. Everything was either covered in slime, limescale or rotted aluminium.

Amazingly, the central nut came off without too much of a fight, as did the 6 bolts that hold the support plate to the bowl support. The main rubber seal came off easily too but the seal hid lots of white dust and general mess.

This is where things got tricky. The drum support was badly rotted, as well as the top plate – the plate itself was down to ¼ of its original thickness in some places, where it has been eaten away.

The support plate is held in place by two steel bolts and a thick steel plate, which, unsurprisingly, had welded themselves together. The bolt heads snapped off straightaway, meaning that, once the outer drum bowl was removed, the angle grinder was wielded but I had to resort to breaking the drum support off the gearbox shaft in lumps…

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Stripping part 2

With the drum support lying in pieces around my workshop, I removed the outer bowl, take it outside and pressure wash the gunk out.

With the leak dripping down the support tube for goodness knows how long, I unbolted it and found a rather sad looking bearing, covered in rusty, dried-out grease. The bearing also felt a bit notchy, when spun, so I plan to replace it.

The support tube had corroded on the top, so I have renoved it, using chemical metal (see pics).

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new parts

New drum support, plate kit, top bearing seal & tripod kit (not pictured) and bottom seal ordered.

Sadly, the counterface that fits on top of the support shaft is toast. Anyone know if replacements are available.

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Blimey!

You're certainly braver than me! I've stripped everything out of many washers and vacs and rebuilt them from scratch, but I wouldnt want to try a Hotpoint top loader. I had a 9605 that I gave to another collector, never had to work on it fortunatley

Hope the refurb works out well, I don't know much about the top loaders other than cosmetic information!

Chris
 
hi Rob

Cracking on apace there. Hope you got the user manual ok. That is some corrosion which is mainly due to a build up of detergent so I guess it looks like this machine has done nothing but warm washes with non dissolving powder.

I've attached a link to a new counter face and they also have the counter face mount. Keep us updated

S :)

 
I would probably just bung in some SAE90 gear oil but you could ask on UKWhitegoods for a definitive answer.
 
Update

Thanks for the suggestion about the oil - I tried UK Whitegoods but nobody could give me precise details about what the original oil actually was, so far. The consensus is for me to use EP80/90, classic car spec, so it will not eat away at any soft metal bushes.

Anyway, as an update, the top bearing is off, the chassis has been derusted and repainted in epoxy mastic rust proofing paint - an excellent 2-pack product that I recommend highly (from Rustbuster - www.rust.co.uk)

The outer tube for the shaft had some rust damage, which was cleaned up - some welding was needed but it's done now...

The other issue is that the counterface (part number 151245), which fits on top of the support tube is cracked and chipped, presumably caused by corrosion exerting pressure on it. While the plastic mounting is available new, the counterface is obsolete and the usual suspects says its in stock but then find it is not.

I even found the original OE supplier to Hotpoint of these counterfaces, who even found the drawings, but has no spare stock left - as they were junked many years ago. Commissioning a new replacement to be made is a (very) uneconomical exercise.

So, does anyone have an undamaged one from a machine being broken?

R

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hi Rob

Looking good - I need to spray the base of mine so thanks for the tip on the paint - will have to get some.

I've had a quick look on-line using the following part numbers and some are showing as in stock - not sure which companies you have tried.
C00146357, C00146336 and 151245

Give those ago and check in case it throws up results that you have not seen.

S :)
 
Bugger. I'll have a root about when I get back after the weekend amongst my spare bits in case I have one. I can't remember if I replaced the counter face in the machine I fixed the leak on. If I did then I would have kept the old one so if would be better than no counter seal. I'll drop you a message if I find it. S
 
quick update

Managed to spend 20 minutes on the machine last night, so we are now on putting it back together. I fitted the new top bearing, tolerance ring, washers and circlip to the main transmission outer shaft.

I also sucked out the old gearbox oil and refilled with old-style EP80/90, with a new good squirts of Lucas oil.

When a counterface is located, I shall continue with the rest of the overhaul...

R
 
Hotpoint Top Loading Automatics....

Hi Rob great restoration for the old washer, there is a repair guy we use in Norfolk who repairs Hotpoint top loaders, (he`s renovating my 1501 at the moment) and has a machine shop so can make new / old parts when required, his name is Mark Hill from Mark One domestics and his contact email is [email protected]

I re-sprayed my 1509 lid and back panel a few years ago, the paint match was Citroen Midnight Blue paint from Halfords, Looking forward to seeing yours all back together after the restore!!


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Thanks chestermike

Thanks for the advice. I went to Halfords for some Citroen/Peugeot Midnight Blue but it is not being stocked anymore.

I think what I shall do is get some paint mixed up at my local professional paint suppliers, which should be able to match up the original colour from the console wrap. The trouble is, the minimum quantity is 1/2 litre.

Does anyone need their Liberators painting??!

R
 
Cabinet – part 1

As I wait for an elusive counterface to arrive, I have taken advantage of an afternoon’s nice weather and addressed the cabinet.

As you can see, the original cabinet wore rust spots and, once the triangular sales sticker was removed, it was obvious how much the paint had discoloured, from a bright white, to a dirty, yellowish hue.

There was also a nasty scrape on the side, as well.

The chances of a second-hand cabinet needing no repairs would be so remote and so I decided to repair the original part, particularly as the rust was only superficial.

R

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Cabinet – part 2

Car bodyfiller took care of the dent, while I flatted down the rest with 100 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper, using my orbital sander.

There were quite a few more rust spots hiding beneath the paint and, to avoid them spreading, the brown iron oxide was either ground out with the sandpaper, or treated with a rust converter solution.

I find Hammerite’s product to be a bit wimpy in this regard – I used Bilt Hambers’ version instead, which is more heavy duty.

If the rust were left, it could spread under the paint, causing it to blister and fall off.

I used a flap disc to remove the heavier corrosion at the top of the cabinet, followed by the rust converter.

R

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