dnastrau
Well-known member
At least from what you can see it doesn't look bad for $50.
1983 BD Kenmore 70 in Southern NJ $50
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Doesn't look bad at all
This is indeed a 1983 Kenmore - in fact the most popular seller in BD set-up of the entire 1980s.
These were available for 3.5 years, so that clearly has something to do with it, but its the model people bought most in 1983, 1984, 1985 and 1986.
Oddly, the next model up, which differed only in having five water levels instead of three, is nowhere near as common. At least equally less common is the model directly below it, which doesn't have the auto-temperature feature.
Could be a good catch for $50.
Gordon
This is indeed a 1983 Kenmore - in fact the most popular seller in BD set-up of the entire 1980s.
These were available for 3.5 years, so that clearly has something to do with it, but its the model people bought most in 1983, 1984, 1985 and 1986.
Oddly, the next model up, which differed only in having five water levels instead of three, is nowhere near as common. At least equally less common is the model directly below it, which doesn't have the auto-temperature feature.
Could be a good catch for $50.
Gordon
We had the model 1981 model 80 version of this washer. Pretty much just added infinite water levels to the mix.
Automatic selects the wash temp for the given selections or you override with the others. Ex.cotton white was a hot wash. These machines didn't have tempered warm and cold, warm was a 50/50 mix, hot and cold from the tap.
Automatic selects the wash temp for the given selections or you override with the others. Ex.cotton white was a hot wash. These machines didn't have tempered warm and cold, warm was a 50/50 mix, hot and cold from the tap.
Automatic temperature = wash/rinse temp set per the selected cycle & wash time.
Non-automatic = five manual "override" temps on the dial.
3 water levels = standard capacity / Super Roto Swirl???
Correct - the 'non-automatic' temp. model had manual temperature selections only meaning not timer-matched to the cycle and amount of time selected, but instead of five combinations, the machine had just three, all with cold rinses. Sears was really trying to de-emphasize warm rinses at this time to save energy. The 1981 70-series MOL model was the last to use the five manual temperature combinations without the automatic, in a belt-drive anyway.
Regarding the three water levels and possible Roto-Swirl, this model is a large capacity machine, which gives it a 2.8 cu. ft. basket and the Dual-Action agitator. Three levels however were the most common selections offered in standard capacity, which often used the Roto-Swirl.
In actual use, I find the three water levels of this model and the two 70-series models below it to be rather annoying. Sears fluctuated the calibrations of what makes a 'Medium' setting over the years, but from 1979 or so forward, the Medium fill level is too shallow for my typical needs, and the next up is a full-fill. In the summer especially when not wearing jeans and heavy shirts, etc I find weekly weekend laundry does not always require the full fill of a large capacity washer, thus I find myself wanting something in between medium and high so not to waste water.
There were four seventy-series models in the 1983 line-up. As I mentioned earlier, this was the most common seller. In an unusual case, the C/L ad shows the model number, which is 110.82372110. That makes this a 23721 stock number. Here's some trivia:
The first 70 is a 23701 - five cycles (Cotton/Sturdy, Perm, Knit, Delicate and Pre-wash). No dispensers, three levels, three temps. Second most common machine of the 1983-1986 line.
Next was the 23711 - same as 23701 except a soak cycle (making it a 6-cycle machine) and a softener dispenser. Fairly rare model.
Then was the 23721 discussed above. Best seller of the 1980s. Added automatic temp control which Sears decided added two cycles by having white and color added to Cotton Sturdy and Perm, but had same timer as 23711. Added a bleach dispenser too.
The fourth and final 1983 70 series is the 23741 (there was no 23731). Just added five water levels in place of the previous three. Back in the 1990s when belt-drives were what every used-appliance dealer wanted for refurb., you'd see perhaps 8 of the 23701 and 10 of the 23721 for every one of the 23711 and 23741 that would show up for rebuilding.
The next model up from the 23741 was the 23801, another very good seller, and probably the easiest to use model - again this was just a change to the water level switch, having an infinite selection, which I find really easiest to use. This was the first 80-series model. Sears charged about $40 more for this model than the 23721, for just a pressure switch change.
One day I'll have to do a photo-review of all these models. They were Sears' bread and butter for nearly 4-years.
Gordon
Regarding the three water levels and possible Roto-Swirl, this model is a large capacity machine, which gives it a 2.8 cu. ft. basket and the Dual-Action agitator. Three levels however were the most common selections offered in standard capacity, which often used the Roto-Swirl.
In actual use, I find the three water levels of this model and the two 70-series models below it to be rather annoying. Sears fluctuated the calibrations of what makes a 'Medium' setting over the years, but from 1979 or so forward, the Medium fill level is too shallow for my typical needs, and the next up is a full-fill. In the summer especially when not wearing jeans and heavy shirts, etc I find weekly weekend laundry does not always require the full fill of a large capacity washer, thus I find myself wanting something in between medium and high so not to waste water.
There were four seventy-series models in the 1983 line-up. As I mentioned earlier, this was the most common seller. In an unusual case, the C/L ad shows the model number, which is 110.82372110. That makes this a 23721 stock number. Here's some trivia:
The first 70 is a 23701 - five cycles (Cotton/Sturdy, Perm, Knit, Delicate and Pre-wash). No dispensers, three levels, three temps. Second most common machine of the 1983-1986 line.
Next was the 23711 - same as 23701 except a soak cycle (making it a 6-cycle machine) and a softener dispenser. Fairly rare model.
Then was the 23721 discussed above. Best seller of the 1980s. Added automatic temp control which Sears decided added two cycles by having white and color added to Cotton Sturdy and Perm, but had same timer as 23711. Added a bleach dispenser too.
The fourth and final 1983 70 series is the 23741 (there was no 23731). Just added five water levels in place of the previous three. Back in the 1990s when belt-drives were what every used-appliance dealer wanted for refurb., you'd see perhaps 8 of the 23701 and 10 of the 23721 for every one of the 23711 and 23741 that would show up for rebuilding.
The next model up from the 23741 was the 23801, another very good seller, and probably the easiest to use model - again this was just a change to the water level switch, having an infinite selection, which I find really easiest to use. This was the first 80-series model. Sears charged about $40 more for this model than the 23721, for just a pressure switch change.
One day I'll have to do a photo-review of all these models. They were Sears' bread and butter for nearly 4-years.
Gordon
mrb627
Well-known member
3 water levels = standard capacity / Super Roto Swirl???
3 water levels = standard capacity / Super Roto Swirl??? = NIRVANA!
3 water levels = standard capacity / Super Roto Swirl??? = NIRVANA!
Malcolm,
Standard capacity machines were not a big presence for Kenmore soon after the large capacity pairs hit the market in 1974. Their success was almost immediate. The next couple years there still seemed to be some decent sales numbers of standard models, based on what showed up at shops and rebuilders, but within two years Sears had only three or four standard capacity models in the whole line, with the BOL and TOL being rather rare, leaving only a 60-series straight-vane machine and a 70 series Roto-Swirl model to carry the bulk of the standard capacity sales.
I think Whirlpool put more emphasis on standard models than Kenmore did, until Kenmore finally cut the 29-inch standard version after the 1980 models (in order to begin introducing DD washers).
There was one Roto-Swirl model per year in 1976, 77, 78, and 1980, and three in 1979. I think the designers in 1979 were stoned when they created the '79 line, as it had about 50% more models than previous years, but there was even a 60-series Roto-Swirl machine with a manual filter! I would love to find a late 1980 model, as I'd like to restore one as a shrine to Kenmore's Roto-Swirl past.
Gordon
Standard capacity machines were not a big presence for Kenmore soon after the large capacity pairs hit the market in 1974. Their success was almost immediate. The next couple years there still seemed to be some decent sales numbers of standard models, based on what showed up at shops and rebuilders, but within two years Sears had only three or four standard capacity models in the whole line, with the BOL and TOL being rather rare, leaving only a 60-series straight-vane machine and a 70 series Roto-Swirl model to carry the bulk of the standard capacity sales.
I think Whirlpool put more emphasis on standard models than Kenmore did, until Kenmore finally cut the 29-inch standard version after the 1980 models (in order to begin introducing DD washers).
There was one Roto-Swirl model per year in 1976, 77, 78, and 1980, and three in 1979. I think the designers in 1979 were stoned when they created the '79 line, as it had about 50% more models than previous years, but there was even a 60-series Roto-Swirl machine with a manual filter! I would love to find a late 1980 model, as I'd like to restore one as a shrine to Kenmore's Roto-Swirl past.
Gordon
dumb mistake
Before I ever knew a thing about washer repairs, I had one of these 1983 BD Kenmore's. By about 2003, at times only low speed cycles worked, the agitator and spinning DID NOT OCCUR in high speed. Other times, all was well. Did I just have a loose belt, and I junked the machine out of ignorance and stupidity? Knowing what I do now, I can't imagine there was any other problem, just worn belts that spun freely instead of biting and moving pulleys once they got overworked and hot and expanded. Damn.
Before I ever knew a thing about washer repairs, I had one of these 1983 BD Kenmore's. By about 2003, at times only low speed cycles worked, the agitator and spinning DID NOT OCCUR in high speed. Other times, all was well. Did I just have a loose belt, and I junked the machine out of ignorance and stupidity? Knowing what I do now, I can't imagine there was any other problem, just worn belts that spun freely instead of biting and moving pulleys once they got overworked and hot and expanded. Damn.
Mark -
These later belt-drives are nearly identical to your 1960 WP, with one major difference, one which I consider good and bad together.
The centerpost was shortened in early 1978 by five inches. The agitator shaft remained the same, but the spin tube of the basket drive and the centerpost on the baseplate became very shallow. The spin tube went from 18.5 inches long to 13.5.
This was a savings in materials, especially when multiplied times the millions of machines made from 1978 to 1987, AND it essentially all but eliminated bearing wear, which is so prevalent in the 1977 and older units.
That's the good part, the bad is that though these centerposts are more heavily sealed than the previous generation, when the seals fail, water pressure from full or nearly filled tubs press the air trapped under the agitator into those seals. Worn seals allow the air to escape, and replace itself under the agitator with water. Once water gets into the bearings, it starts to seep down past the basket drive and directly into the gearcase.
This can happen on the older centerpost models, but it takes much longer as the taller steel centerpost prevents water leakage until the seals are really bad on those models.
The damage caused by this type of leakage can be ugly. Black oily water, from the centerpost oil mixed with detergent and dissolving rubber seals, can spray out of the top of these short centerposts and make a black drippy line on the inside of agitators, which can eventually get on clothes. This is easiest seen on a machine with a white agitator.
On the other side of that, when the gearcase gets water in it, it fouls the oil like water in a car engine, and it becomes this brown soupy mess, that looks similar to chocolate milk. Eventually that stuff spews out and gets carried away by the rapidly moving belt and will coat the cabinet and everything else in a nice brown oily haze.
I don't know if this was happening to your machine or not, as the one cool testament of these machines is that they seem to continue to operate fairly well while being slowly poisoned to death. You may indeed have had just a loose belt, but most all of these machines eventually need a complete tune up (cleaning, lubircation, and a re-seal) which is not a minor job. Weak floors seem to hasten seal wear, and I've had to do total rebuilds on some of these as young as 8 years old. On the other hand, I know some have exceeded 25-30 years in continual service.
On the bright side, I have quite a number of these machines, several in fact of the very model in this thread, and if you'd like one to work on, its yours, just come get it.
Gordon
These later belt-drives are nearly identical to your 1960 WP, with one major difference, one which I consider good and bad together.
The centerpost was shortened in early 1978 by five inches. The agitator shaft remained the same, but the spin tube of the basket drive and the centerpost on the baseplate became very shallow. The spin tube went from 18.5 inches long to 13.5.
This was a savings in materials, especially when multiplied times the millions of machines made from 1978 to 1987, AND it essentially all but eliminated bearing wear, which is so prevalent in the 1977 and older units.
That's the good part, the bad is that though these centerposts are more heavily sealed than the previous generation, when the seals fail, water pressure from full or nearly filled tubs press the air trapped under the agitator into those seals. Worn seals allow the air to escape, and replace itself under the agitator with water. Once water gets into the bearings, it starts to seep down past the basket drive and directly into the gearcase.
This can happen on the older centerpost models, but it takes much longer as the taller steel centerpost prevents water leakage until the seals are really bad on those models.
The damage caused by this type of leakage can be ugly. Black oily water, from the centerpost oil mixed with detergent and dissolving rubber seals, can spray out of the top of these short centerposts and make a black drippy line on the inside of agitators, which can eventually get on clothes. This is easiest seen on a machine with a white agitator.
On the other side of that, when the gearcase gets water in it, it fouls the oil like water in a car engine, and it becomes this brown soupy mess, that looks similar to chocolate milk. Eventually that stuff spews out and gets carried away by the rapidly moving belt and will coat the cabinet and everything else in a nice brown oily haze.
I don't know if this was happening to your machine or not, as the one cool testament of these machines is that they seem to continue to operate fairly well while being slowly poisoned to death. You may indeed have had just a loose belt, but most all of these machines eventually need a complete tune up (cleaning, lubircation, and a re-seal) which is not a minor job. Weak floors seem to hasten seal wear, and I've had to do total rebuilds on some of these as young as 8 years old. On the other hand, I know some have exceeded 25-30 years in continual service.
On the bright side, I have quite a number of these machines, several in fact of the very model in this thread, and if you'd like one to work on, its yours, just come get it.
Gordon
