1992 Maytag LAT9400AAW washer not agitating

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ak473391

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Joined
Jan 29, 2020
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4
Location
Huntsville
I believe I may have overloaded the washing machine and something broke on it. The part that broke may have been on its last legs anyway. The motor does seem to engage. It makes a loud squealing sound along with a persistent click now. It does produce a burning smell as well. I have taken apart the machine and cannot figure out what is wrong. The belts undeneath seem fine. I may replace them anyway. I can find no literature on whether or not this machine has a motor coupler. I can only find info on Maytag machines 2000 and newer.Does anyone know, and if so how to get to the motor coupler or any ideas of how to fix this washer? This seems the most likely part that would have broken based on my research. My roommate is deployed and want to fix this before their return as it is their machine. Thanks.

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there is NO coupler on a Maytag like this.....

this is a two belt design, one for the main drive and the other for the pump....

first thing I would do is take the belts off to see if the motor runs, without belts, the motor shaft may lean against the cabinet and squeal loudly.........

also, reach under and spin the large center pulley, one direction for agitation, the other for spin.....does it move in either direction freely?
 
Thanks for the quick reply. By large center pulley you mean the largest belt underneath the machine? I'll do both tests tomorrow thanks.
 
Non Agitating Maytag

If it still spins and drains OK you have a bad transmission, BIG repair, [ don't waste your money on new belts ]

 

If you want to invest a bunch of time learning about this machine and tracking down NLA or good used parts you may be able to fix this machine,

 

For most folks it is cheaper and easier to find another even used washer.

 

John L.
 
brake

Sounds to me like the brake has went bad this is a common problem with this model and could be fixed easily if your willing they are great machines and will run well for a long time if you make this repair, you can youtube how to do it.

Best of Luck,
Darrem
 
Non Agitating Maytag

The brake has nothing to do with agitation and the ONLY thing I have EVER seen go wrong with a MT DC brake is a lining completely worn away which makes the washer squeal like a cornered pig when the tub comes to a stop from spin.

 

We have never replaced a brake assembly on a MT washer newer than sometime in the 70s unless the complete washer had been under water for a year or so.

 

Hi Darrem, I would love to see a broken brake from one of these MT washers, I can not imagine what could ever fail.

 

John L.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm not sure which direction to go, but I appreciate all the help. I didn't expect so much. Not really wanting to call a service place, but I may.
 
Non Agitating Maytag

Lay the washer on its side, remove the belts, the large center pulley will take two hands to turn CW [ spin direction ] but should turn fairly easily once you get it turning [ as you start to turn it you can feel the extra resistance from compressing and leasing the brake spring.

 

If you can not turn the pulley you have bad bearings, NOT a bad transmission. [ or clothing stuck between the tubs ]

 

Then try turning the pulley CCW [ agitation direction ] it should turn easily, maybe one finger and the agitator will be moving slowly as you turn it.

 

If it does not behave this way you have a bad transmission.

 

If you find that you have a bad transmission and decide to call in the professionals give them the model # and tell them what you found wrong and ask if they are willing to fix a washer this old and how much will they charge you for replacing the transmission, otherwise you are just going to waste your money on a service call when they condemn the washer.

 

John L.
 
>> ask if they are willing to fix a washer this old and how much will they charge you for replacing the transmission

John, I remember reading some of the Maytag literature from the introduction of the orbital transmission, and Maytag was quite proud of how serviceable this new transmission was without removing it from the washer.

Is there a reason why a service tech would now suggest replacing the transmission rather than repairing it in-place?
 
Fixing A MT Orbital Transmission In The Washer

Yes many repairs were possible without removing the transmission, I have done this a few times.

 

The problem in the real world is most MT transmissions fail because the agitator shaft gets worn and water gets into the top bearing and requires replacement of the complete unit.

 

Problem #2 is finding anyone in the field who either knows how to fix this transmission OR even wants to brother fixing one, it is very hard to even find a tech that knows how to replace the complete unit and then you have to consider that many parts are going NLA for MT DC washers.

 

John L.
 
I laid her down, removed the belts and the pulley moves normally in the spin direction, but is difficult to move in the agitation direction. It probably has a bad transmission based on what y'all were telling me. Don't know if I could diagnose it further from here. I'm hoping the transmission didn't go because I overloaded it. Now the question is should I call a service place, try to fix it on my own, put it on craigslist for cheap or free, or haul it to the scrap yard?
 
With patience, you can learn to replace the transmission.  There is lots of help on this forum and plenty of Youtube videos to help out as well.  I did it...and if I can, anyone can! 

 

If you love a top load washer, I would go for it.  Just don't get in a hurry.  I think yours is a large capacity tub, so this transmission should work.  You'll also need a brake tool and a spanner nut wrench.  You can either buy them or maybe borrow/rent from an appliance repair shop.  I had a guy give them to me because he said he would never use them again. 

 
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Given that it's your roommate's machine, I certainly wouldn't do anything drastic like getting rid of it!
If they are attached to it, you could be setting yourself up for trouble when they return from their deployment...

For the diagnostics, you might as well pull the cover on the transmission to check for internal damage before buying any parts or committing to a transmission replacement. (John could confirm, but I believe the process is to lay the machine on its back, rotate the trans so the cover is facing up, unbolt and remove the cover, and then with a pan or bucket underneath, rotate the transmission to pour out the oil into the pan.)
 

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