Finally had time to look at why my dryer isn’t heating after the maiden trial. The heater wires all “short” and have continuity so I don’t think my heater is at fault. My timer seems to “open” when checking continuity and taking pressure off the timer knob. The circuit reads closed while I keep rotational pressure on it. Not sure if this resolves when power is passing thru it presumably to advance the timer. Either way, dealing with that later.
For now, I’ve turned my attention to the temp control which seems to reading 4000 ohms between the black and red leads- which at room temp should equal 0 ohms to allow current to pass unobstructed thru the heaters. Only when the temp sending bulbs heats enough is the heater circuit supposed to be broken by the temp switch , forcing current to pass thru a 4k ohm resister while the timer advances (orange and black circuit is completed. Eventually the resister warms enough that it resets the switch and current can pass thur the heaters unobstructed again (bypassing the resistor).
At room temp I measure 4k ohms between the red and black terminals suggesting the switch internals are not conducting correctly ( should read 0 until bellows expand due to hot enough heat in the drum). Once warmed and the bellows expand, it should complete the orange - black circuit and open the black - red circuit ( forcing current thru the resistor meanwhile). However while cool, the orange-black terminals have very low resistance, suggesting a problem with the switch internals ( assume should read open). Has anyone rebuilt this switch successfully? Mine has not one, but two sealed bulb sensors to control what basically looks like some sort of rocker switch - I am very nervous about taking this apart and damaging either sealed system.
For now, I’ve turned my attention to the temp control which seems to reading 4000 ohms between the black and red leads- which at room temp should equal 0 ohms to allow current to pass unobstructed thru the heaters. Only when the temp sending bulbs heats enough is the heater circuit supposed to be broken by the temp switch , forcing current to pass thru a 4k ohm resister while the timer advances (orange and black circuit is completed. Eventually the resister warms enough that it resets the switch and current can pass thur the heaters unobstructed again (bypassing the resistor).
At room temp I measure 4k ohms between the red and black terminals suggesting the switch internals are not conducting correctly ( should read 0 until bellows expand due to hot enough heat in the drum). Once warmed and the bellows expand, it should complete the orange - black circuit and open the black - red circuit ( forcing current thru the resistor meanwhile). However while cool, the orange-black terminals have very low resistance, suggesting a problem with the switch internals ( assume should read open). Has anyone rebuilt this switch successfully? Mine has not one, but two sealed bulb sensors to control what basically looks like some sort of rocker switch - I am very nervous about taking this apart and damaging either sealed system.
. Do I risk it for 75 dollars!?
.
. Now I’ll just need to keep searching for the door switch ( which also should mean I’ll have a working pilot light).
