A lot of this stuff came off in chunks and the porcelain was still intact in many places. It looked like it consisted of lint, soap scum, and rust all formed into a nice crust.
This is the out of balance trip lever as viewed from the top of the sub top. If the tub starts wobbling too juch in spin then it hits this lever from under the sub top and then the upper tab pushes another lever which pushes the timer out and stops the machine.
"Keyway" where tub locks onto spin shaft. A 1" long small piece of steel fits into the middle tab. If you forget and leave this out during reassembly, the spin shaft will not be able to grab onto the tub when it spins. If you lose yours you can still get them at Ace Hardware in the small parts area. They are called a steel key. (thanks to rollermatic for that info!)
Tub nut with flange up and tabbed washer underneath. One of the tabs gets bent upward to lock the tub nut in place after tightening. You can see it better in the next photo.
Oil bellows back on pulsator shaft with washer on top and snap ring in place over flange on tub nut. Here you can see the tabbed washer in its bent (locked) position.
Water bellows back in place. Snap ring pliers laying in tub really help make this a much simpler job in removing and replacing the snap rings on both bellows. There is a smaller set of these pliers (not shown) for the oil bellows.
"But Patrick, I still see rust on the top" --- Yes you do but I am trying a new product which was a bit cheaper than POR-15 to coat this rust and see how it holds up. It is a clear spray (although it comes in colors too) made by Rust-Oleum. It looks wet after you coat everything but 2 years later I opened it up to take a look and rust is still frozen with no new rusting. Later if it starts to rust I will sand it down and coat with POR-15. I actually ran out of POR and this is what led to doing it this way. Seems to be working and was a lot cheaper.