70's Kenmore Suds model

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akronman

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Jul 20, 2010
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Akron/Cleveland Ohio
It's mine and sitting in my garage, out of the rain. The seller said it's been in use in the house since the 70's, his new house has visible laundry near the kitchen and his wife demanded new. This was in use until 2 weeks ago!

Model 110.73570100, serial number C52803750. So what's the date of birth?

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more

Here's the original Craigslist pic, it turns out the messy timer area is just soap/crap, wipes right off. And the water temp button broke off when the seller moved it from the basement, I'll find a new one.

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console

Please excuse my rotten photo skills-----You can see SUDS at the 6 o'clock osition, no other buttons for suds. The seller said they never used suds, just stuck both hoses down the drainline. I guess it automatically saves suds every normal cycle???? Then if you do want them returned, you make sure you already plugged one basin and then set the dial here?
The next pic will show the soak knob, helps explain the timer? All of this is while it sits in my garage, no hookups out there. And obviously I haven't wiped a thing clean

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That's a really nice model. And thank God for trendy wives who just have to have something new!

Mark, you've been around for a while, so you know the first 2 digits after the 110. are always the year of production for a Kenmore--right?

So it's a 1973 edition.

As for month and date, I don't know how to do that yet. Maybe this time I'll pay attention and learn how to do the month, day and location--all of which are hidden in the code.

No matter that it's not a Suds; you'll make her recycle anyway.
 
Agitator

Dark gold Penta-Vane, of which I've heard tell. I'm getting ahead of my self here, but wouldn't this extra capacity mid 70's KM be eligible for their early double-action agitator? Some machines I keep pristine, some I swap around to see all the options. And WOW is the tub deeper than my 1960 Whirlpool, huge!

How did the same 29" cabinet fit this larger tub? Did they just lengthen the suspension rods, drop the motor and tranny closer to the floor?

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Mickey

Mickey--reread it buddy, it IS A SUDS MODEL!!!!!!

I know the 73 is a signifier, but at times they continued a model into th next year, I have a 63 model dryer from Kenmore with an April 64 build, it was a popular model so they just kept on.

This one looks pretty easy to get up and running, surface rust near the base, to be expected, and the owners never wiped down a damn thing, oh well.

You are right, I'd have found a dry agitate timer spot and sucked suds anyhows, but this is a suds model from the factory!

I canb't wait to get her downstairs and check out all the soak only,. soak to wash, sudsing, etc, holy cow.
 
underneath

70's era braces for the transmission, a capacitor for the motor, the suds valve installed along the back, all stuff my 60 WP doesn't have.

But where is the Magic Filter?

To me, for an Ohio basement for 40 years, the base is about what I expected.

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I see that, Mark. What a fat toady I am. LOLOLOL.

Go so lost thinking about such a whole club-favored machine and the number stuff, I forgot the thread title.

Even as I wrote the sentence, there was a little ping in my brain, but I ignored it.

I love it.

All those features make it seem like a Lady K. And a REAL Suds. I'm bubbling over white with envy.
 
 
Serial = 28th week of 1975.

The gizmo in #9 is a detergent dispenser, which is required as part of the automatic soak-to-wash function.  It's apparently missing -- I've never seen one but as I understand, a removable reservoir cup with a flap that opens on the bottom sits atop the block. A solenoid-activated pin kicks out of the hole in the rim to open the flap so the detergent falls out.
 
The answers to your suds questions are Yes and Yes.

Also noticed the Suds is located just before the soak without an OFF position suggesting that it goes right from Suds to Soak. Haven't seen this maneuver before. So cool, and so flexible. Think of all you could do with a really dirty load. Return the suds, go right to soak & wash. Then use that new liquor for the next load.

I have never seen this before, Mark; in fact, when ya think about it, Suds models in machines of this period don't show up all that often.

I just studied the control panel more carefully. There is a longer white line after the suds and before the 22. Maybe there just wasn't any room for OFF, and it does indeed shut off after the return.
But then again, maybe not. Now I'm really excited to see what it does when you get 'er rollin.
 
Mark -

So glad you got this. I guess I spurred two menbers in one weekend to grab a machine off Craigslist, almost like a washer pusher, lol.

Let's see, in no sort of order, here's what I can tell you:

1) Its a 1975 model. After 1973, the model numbers read differently than they did 1973 and earlier. To the right of the decimal, the first digit is the decade. So, 1970s. Second digit is the application: 1= 24-inch standard, 2= 29-inch standard, 3= 29-inch suds, 4= compact, and 5= 24-inch suds. Thus your machine is a 29-inch suds model, which we already knew. The 5 is the year digit. The 701 is the series, and the 00 is the engineering revision. There were very few 1975 models (like four or so only) and most didn't get any revisions before the 76s came out.

2) The soak selector works as follows: select soak only and the machine will stop after the drain and spin after the pre-wash segment. Select Soak and wash, and the machine will continue on into the Normal cycle.

3) Do you need just a knob for the temp, or the whole switch? I have boo-coos of knobs, one can have your name on it, just ask. If a switch, the same replacement switch works in machines all the way back to 1960 or so. I can dig up the part number if you need it, but if you'd like used, there are lots out there, I probably have one of those as well.

4) The self-cleaning filter is the tub-mounted variety, probably the best overall of the SC filters on Kenmores. Maybe John knows better but these seemed very effective and not all that troublesome. They needed a minimum of plumbing as well as compared to others.

5) That fixture in the left upper corner is for the powdered detergent dispenser. They are almost never included with a machine.

6) Tread lightly around the bleach and softener bezel - they can be brittle and then don't secure themselves once the snap clips fail.

7) These big tubs fit in the machine just as you said, they deepened the tub and thus the suspension rods, and dropped the entire baseplate and everything under it closer to the floor. BUT, they also made the tub wider. If you look at the cabinet, there are some half-moon shaped indentations in the front and sides of the cabinet to allow the tub to fit into the cabinet.

8) A Dual-Action agitator will fit with no issue in your machine. Sears tried to sell them in their catalogs for a number of years in fact for retrofit. Just make sure you have one with the large capacity auger. The standard version uses the same base agitator but a shorter auger. There is little to no chance you'd find a standard version (quite uncommon), but you never know.

Cool machine Mark - I never saw one of these in a suds model, but that's the midwest for you. Your machine may tie one of mine for the nastiest Kenmore of the week prize. Mine I rescued from a filthy installation in 2010. I wrote a whole thread about how disgusting it was. People actually expect these machines to clean for them? Really? Try keeping it clean then!!

Can't wait to see how you come to like this machine. Congratulations to you AND the machine, I think it landed softly in new digs.

Gordon[this post was last edited: 4/8/2014-00:19]
 
Thanks

to you all for the info!!!
Dadoes---SearsParts diagrams call it an engine???? thanks for the explanation, yes a soak-to-wash cycle would need more detergent. Does anyone even have a picture of such a cup?

Gordon--#3--I have the knob, I found a new switch for $14 on Ebay, already ordered it, thanks.
#4Tubmounted self-clean filter----not sure what you mean. So it ain't the magic filter I've seen in late 60's models, simply plumbed in past the pump? As for filtering, if you can't watch it splash and work and get dirty, what's the fun? lol. I do want to figure out what this model has, but I'll lose interest in 3 loads if I don't get to watch it splash and get dirty hands emptying it!

#9----DA Agitator----you got a PN? I will for sure be searching for that!

Mickey---I will definitely check out the suds behavior and report back exact findings-I bet you got it right.

Gordon--you said in the original CL thread that the timer still has the extra rinse. Check out the big OFF section at the end of Normal. Is it likley in that section, and I need to find the exact unused contacts on the timer and put a switch on the back of the console?

If I don't stop, I'll ask too many questions before it's even indoors. G'night
 
 
I've seen that "engine" reference there on several parts that have nothing to do with an engine ... it's apparently a glitch in the database.

Interestingly, the lint filter shows to still be available.  I've not seen that style but it apparently mounts to side of the outer tub, where the side-check valve would ordinarily be fitted.

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Detergent Dispenser

I had the detergent dispenser from my mom's machine and sent it to a guy somewhere in New England who I never see here anymore or I'd remember his name.  He had set his machine aside as a future project but I never heard from him or saw any posts about it.  That was probably five years ago.  So there's one out there somewhere.

 

It's a triangular shaped white plastic/resin assembly that hangs off of the block at left rear.  The detergent trough is suspended over the tub and is contoured at the rear to clear/conform to the curve of the tub opening.  The bottom flap of the trough is spring loaded.  A rod pops out of the hanger block when activated by the solenoid, and triggers the bottom of the dispenser to flip 270 degrees, allowing the powder to drop into the tub the moment the Normal wash cycle agitation begins. 

 

When "Soak & Wash" is selected, it provides an automatic sequence that begins with the Soak cycle, proceeds into the Pre-Wash cycle, then continues into the Normal cycle with detergent drop.   I think an Extra Rinse is called for when using this feature.  The Pre-Wash doesn't rinse, so you're adding even more detergent to the already soapy clothing via the dispenser.  Then again, Kenmores provided those nice spray rinses during both spins, so you could possibly get away without an extra one.

 

As I recall, there were also small white dots on the timer dial that marked settings for things like "Spin Only" on the Normal and perhaps Delicate cycles, which didn't have them clearly marked the way Permanent Press does.  I can't tell from the pictures if they continued with those markers on the '75 models.

 

I think my mom's machine was originally outfitted with a "magic filter," which looked a lot different from the one pictured above.  Due to its flexing, it developed a leak and the replacement part was the new style.  It never had to be replaced again.

 

Others have said so, but I knew and used virtually this same machine over the course of 25 years, was always impressed with its functionality and quiet operation, and consider it a fine Kenmore specimen for its period.

 

 
 
Tub vs. cabinet mounted self-clean lint filters

Kenmore had a variety of self-cleaning filters over the years. Excluding the unique filter on the 59 (?) Lady K, most of these were mounted in the back left corner of the cabinet as you face the machine. Early filters had marbles in them (how did someone think of that anyway?), then there were the cone shaped filters which is probably what you remember Ralph that burst or cracked. These were replaced by an adaptation of a Whirlpool only filter which fit the same place as the cone, but resembled a flying saucer space ship. I think the saucer filters were used in KMs only as replacement parts, not on the assembly line. They had no moving parts, and were very durable. I've heard the same thing --- install one of those and you'll have no further issues.

After that era came the tub mounted filter, which has much the same internal design as the saucer filter, just mounted on the side of the tub, which meant fewer hoses. The tub mount filter uses only one additional hose over a machine without a filter at all. These started in 1975, approximately.

Mark, the second rinse is indeed in that giant off at the end of the normal cycle. It simply needs to be jumper wired to energize contacts, but as to which contacts to jumper, I'd have to see a wiring diagram, most likely from a 1974 70 which used the same timer. I do have a '74 70, so maybe when I dig it out later on?

Gordon
 
Gordon, yes it was the cone shaped filter.  It was sort of opaque as I recall.  I remember questioning the guy at the parts counter when he handed me the new and improved replacement filter and he showed me how the fittings for the hoses were in exactly the same place.  It really was a drastic change in design from the filter I removed (which had failed probably inside of five years), and it proved itself to be far superior to the original.
 
The Dead Zone

Many reports from members about activating dead spots on their timers, usually agitation in the area that would have said "Suds." But this is a brave new world on your machine with a dead zone in the Extra Rinse spot. Even though you haven't wired anything yet, it might be cool to see if there is any action there, especially if you explore the space with a satisfied water level* in the tub before you venture out. So exciting. Of course there may be nothing there at all, but it 's worth a try.

* On my 77 WP, the dead zone works only if there is enough water in the tub for a LO level wash. If I go there dry, I get nothing. The 63 LK agitates in the dead zone with or without water which I love because it gives a 4 minute wash followed by an infinite soak in as little water as I want.

So try it wet and dry, Buddy, and let us know. Thanks. Better than Star Trek's : "Going boldly where only washermen dare."
 
Outer Tub Side Mounted Self-Cleaning Lint Filter

This was the last true [ plumbed in ] self-cleaning filter design that was used on WP built BD KMs and WP models. It was also the first SCF that WP built washers used that was the exactly the same on both KM and WP badged machines.

The first ever SCLFs appeared on the 1958 LKMs, this filter was used through 1963 on LKMS and by 63 had made it way down into the KM line-up of models to at least the 70 series. This aluminum bodied filter filled with glass marbles was replaced in 1964 with a nylon bodied filter with black rubber like balls in it. then a 2nd version of this filter was used that just had a different hose port orientation. Then around 1970 the KM washers got a new cheaper to build filter that continued to work well but had serious problems with the flexible plastic hinge area splitting and causing really BIG leaks.

Backing up a little WP introduced their first SCLF on their 1964 Imperial Mark 12 washers, this filter was completely different that the orignal KM filter with the little balls in it. Instead it was a maze type filter that used a rubber membrane that flexed when back washed to release the lint and allow it to be flushed down the drain. WP also replaced this filter with a cheaper to build filter around 1970 and even though this 2nd generation WP only filter would sometimes fail and clog it never had the flooding problems that the KM filters experienced.

To solve the huge problem that KM washers had with their 2nd generation filters causing floods, WP built a modified version of the very successful 1st generation WP filter to fit all the KM washers that were originally built with this troublesome filter.

WP went on to introduce nylon bodied filter designed after their orignal SCF design around 1972 that was part of the pump protector and molded directly on the bottom of the pump protector [ Sears often called the pump protector a Pin Trap ].

At some point in the 1970s the new side mounted SCFs appeared and both WP and KM used the same one for the first time.

Interesting points to keep in mind.

All of these SCFs were highly effective and were superior to any other filtering system used on any other TL automatics built in the US.

All these WP built SCFs had moving parts.

The main reason these great filters were discontinued was the advent of phosphate-free detergents which if not used in sufficient quantities caused mineral build-ups in the washers water system the rendered the SCF ineffective and lead to clogged filters and service calls. They were also discontinued because of the cost of building and other manufactures were getting away with cheap to build filters that didn't do much of anything [ MT, GE, HP, Norge, SQ, and Frigidaire ] to name the major ones.

The basket mounted filters that WP changed to for most of the last BD washers in the 1980s [ which had no moving parts ] could be somewhat effective, but since the washer did not have to drain through these new cheaper-to-build-filters it no longer mattered if people clogged them with minerals with bad washing pratices, the washer would still go on at least functioning.

John L.
 
More

It's still in the garage, but I've done some cleaning and gotten pics of the wiring diagram. I will get the washer into the house this weekend and check out lots of stuff before ANY remodeling, but wanted to post this now if anyone (named Gordon) wanted to see if they can suggest what timer contacts to use for a switch for the 2nd rinse option. I wont ruin the console, I'll instead install a toggle switch on the back of the console, out of sight.

Patience, it takes a few pics to get the closeups of the diagram. This pic shows dotted lines for options, and shows #31 and T-V. Maybe Contact #31 and some wire color T with V??? stripes???

John---I had the machine on it's side and finally saw the tub-mounted filter. I'll have more questions on that when it's indoors, thanks for the info. I do very much like filtering, but I wonder if I will ignore it if it isn't a chore for each load. I'm kinda used to that chore!

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timer diagram

Near the N of warNing------

T-V, 2nd Rinse , T B, Cam 2.

t and b mean top and bottom cam followers?

Also, side note, it does spin out after pre-wash, you can see in the picture here. That's why the detergent dispenser would come in handy once in a blue moon. It also kicks in at the start of Delicate and Perma-Press, of course.

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Timer

Still fully installed. I've gotten into numerous timers before, and can solder and strip/poke/crimp contacts, etc. So I will be turning this into a 2nd Rinse Option machine. The timer ladder diagram shows no spray after the second rinse, so this machine will soon become my terry cloth towel machine with me adding FS during the final fill. Perfect.

It's still in the garage, I am WAY ahead of myself.

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detergent dispenser

solenoid plunger assembly under the lid. Sort of over-engineered, ain't it, to do detergent this way? But if there's no recirc pump and waterfall filter, then they lost that way to dispense.

If anyone has a picture of the dispenser, please post, thanks

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tub top

I have seen far worse. The snubber assy is firm and it's hard to push the tub around. It makes me wonder if I need to check for problems on my 1960 WP, it's looser for sure, and heavy loads produce a knock while it gets up to speed.

The agitator says PENTAVANE across the top, but to me looks chopped off, a bit. Would the same agitator have had a FS dispenser on top, in other models?

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