A GE Filter Flo noise question.

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volvoguy87

volvoguy87

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As many of y'all know, I repaired my grandmother's late 1970s GE Filter Flo washer a few weeks ago (still working great with no leaks). Also, thanks again for your advice. I have one lingering question, however. How loud should this washer be?

The washer has always been a bit grumbly, making what I can only describe as some sort of slight grinding noises while running. I think, however, that it has become MUCH louder and I am concerned and would like to know what to look for and what I should and should not do to determine if anything is wrong and how to go about fixing it properly.

It is a 2-speed washer and to my knowledge, the clutch, belt, motor, and transmission are original. The washer is loud all the time, but it is ESPECIALLY loud on low speed and when starting on regular speed (it starts in low and then shifts to regular). It is almost loud enough to drown out conversation, and that's through a closed door. It seems to agitate and spin fine, just very very loud.

Is the clutch wearing out? Do I have to replace it, or do I rebuild it? Is there a loose or worn bearing someplace? Does it need a new belt?

The Filter Flo is a fascinating and effective machine but it seems so much more Rube Goldberg than my old Maytag A208.
Dave
 
FF's always did make a lot of different noises---mostly when spinning---I think due to that cable suspension system. If it is roaring during spin you likely have a bearing issue, especially if you can even converse over the din.
I'm not expert---but this is my thought on the matter.
 
Thanks Steve.

The spin seems to be OK. It doesn't get loud during spin until it gets up to speed, and even then it's not like a roaring freight train. I have heard a Maytag coin-op with the orbital transmission that had a bad spin bearing and that was a sound I won't soon forget. The loud noise is a scraping-grinding sort of sound that is loudest on low speed, and is very present during agitation.

By the way, I finally got my hands on my first bottle of Fresh Start! I haven't opened it yet, but soon...
Thank you to whomever thought of Harris Teeter. I finally got to one and they are the only place I have ever seen it. My bottle still says Colgate-Palmolive. Is Phoenix Brands putting their marking on it at all?

Grind, scrape, grind,
Dave
 
Dave -

I am certainly no GE expert either, however I remember my washer mentor/buddy years ago loving them. I was at his shop often while he worked on one, or a Hotpoint. He could not decide if his favorites were Kenmores or GEs.

The biggest issue he seemed to yap about on GEs was the clutch, which would indeed wear, get noisy, and/or not switch properly from low to high speed, etc. They would sometimes get a certain bearing roar to them if I remember correctly. I bet I heard a couple dozen times over the years how a particular machine was unacceptably noisy and a new clutch would have it "Cadillacing" again as he'd say. I witnessed the before and afters a few times, and they were indeed much quieter.

Clutches were expensive in the 90s, two-speed anyway, so I can't imagine what they'd cost today, but if you want to keep the washer and it still has it's original clutch, I can't see how a new one would be a bad investment for the long run.

Some better informed members can correct me here if I'm wrong, but clutches for GE/Hotpoint/Penney's machines came in universal fit 1-speed, 2-speed, and 3-speed (3 speed?) and they fit all FF models.

I have had good luck with ebay on parts if you want to search for a bargain....

I wish you luck Dave!

Gordon
 
Sounds like the clutch...

What I've learned is typically the clutch is the big noisemaker for the filter-flos. If it's pretty loud as you described then sounds like it may be time to work on it some. Mine is actually rather quite much to my surprise. Generally speaking the slower speeds will be a little noisier but should not be drowning out an airplane flying over. My guess is the shoes are worn. I just bought a new set of clutch shoes on ebay for $10. I've see tons of 2-speed clutches on ebay ranging anywhere from $1-100 dollars, some including motors and being new/unused. If only I could find a 3-speed that way I'd be in business!

It's an easy job to fix if you are just replacing the clutch. If I get my parts here pretty soon I plan on disecting the 3-speeder and rebuilding it with some fresh parts. Will definitely be taking lots of photos for that.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have!

Jon
 
Here's a question.

What path would you recommend I take? Should I replace the whole clutch, or just replace the shoes? I do have some experience in smaller mechanical work (I successfully dismantled my Volvo's speedometer to replace a broken gear that caused my odometer to stop advancing). How horrifying a job is it to remove the clutch and replace the shoes? If I do that, how do I tell if other parts of the clutch are worn?

While I'm at it, should I replace the belt? Do I have to pull the inner tub to do that (doable, but certainly NOT fun)? My grandparents still rely on this washer and it cannot be down for too long, but I absolutely want to fix it before it stops working unexpectedly or something in it gets damaged from excessive wear.

Thanks for your advice jons1077,
Dave
 
Sounds like the clutch carrier-plate bearing. Until Saturday, I had a 1988 Filter-Flo in the garage and it had the same sounds/symptoms you describe. It still ran just fine but was annoying at times, especially in low speed. You can find a whole new clutch on ebay and probably other parts stores in your area. You may be able to find the individual clutch parts as well to rebuild the whole thing with new bearings, shoes, etc. but I would be inclined to spend a little more money on the whole clutch - and a lot less on-the-job training time. If you are replacing/rebuilding the clutch, a new belt is an absolute "yes" if it's still the original on the machine now.
 
Dave,

I second what Gansky said exactly. If it were me I'd get a new clutch and a new belt. It'd be an easy swap and shouldn't take terribly long to do. They'd be out of a washer for a few hours at most. If the clutch is getting changed, change the belt too since it'll have to come off. The only thing you'd have to remove is the back panel of the washer. No need to get inside or pop the top for this stuff. Get a good shop light and a few tools and you're in business.

Jon
 
Another clutch vote but GE's were never known for quiet

Are both speeds working? I know on our old GE V-12 when the slow speed stopped working, presumably because somebody tried to change speeds while the washer was running, the machine got a lot louder. I don't remember any crashes or clangs but the motor din just went from a strong hum to a yowla -YOWLA -YOWLA etc. You could hear it all over the house, nobody did laundry after 7:00 PM.
 
Decisions decisions...

I'm still on the fence about whether to replace the clutch or do some rebuilding. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment. Replacement is fast, easy, and relatively expensive. Rebuilding looks to be far cheaper, but are these GE clutches pure hell to work on?

I have tried to look up some parts diagrams and I can't tell which shoes tend to wear and I don't know which replacement shoes I would need for a 2-speed clutch. Do any of you have part numbers?

If that bearing is bad, how tough is i to replace? I have never replaced a bearing before. Will I need any special tools for any part of a clutch replacement/rebuild?

Thank you all,
Dave
 
and I'm a GE guy!

I may get beaten for saying this, but late seventies GE's were a dime a dozen. Unless this machine is in some way unique or just special to you, don't waste your time. There are lots of them still out there. Of course I could much better advise you if you would post a picture of said machine, inside and out.
 
Here's some more info.

The thread from when the boot came off and it dumped water all over the floor is at the bottom of this post. There are some pictures in that post (my computer is down at the moment and I need to reinstall windows to gain access to my pictures).

The model is: #WWA8344VCLWH (The WH at the end may not be necessary).
The serial is: #LH129185G.

The washer is a MOL-ish model with 2 speeds, 2 toggleswitches (as if we could handle more than one), an extra rinse option, and a mini basket setting (the minibasket is MIA right now). It has a 4-straight vane activator which is pretty rough on clothes, I think it would do better with a ramp activator.

This has been my grandmother's washer since before I came along and it is just not getting replaced. My family has had 3 washers while this GE has just kept right on going.

How bad a job is it to replace worn clutch shoes, and what parts should I buy?

Thanks again,
Dave

 
if it were me...

I'd replace the whole clutch. I was just looking a couple of days ago on Ebay and I see tons of them for sale. If they can splurge the $50 or so dollars you can have a totally brand new clutch. Few dollars more for a new belt too. Swap em out and you'd have a machine that runs like new. As far as replacing the clutch shoes...I have not tried that yet. I got new shoes for mine the other day hoping they work on a 3-speed clutch. Waiting on some other parts before I decide to tear it open yet. I can't see it being too terribly hard to do though.

Jon
 
I just posted the 1958 GE Filter-Flo Washer Service Manual into our service manual library. While a clutch from the 70's is going to be slighlty different than the late 50's clutch, they were still very similar in operation as well as service.

Check pages 59-61 for information on servicing the 2 speed clutch...


10-21-2008-08-43-6--Unimatic1140.jpg
 

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