A Maytag Lead

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gadgetgary

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Got a lead on these machines.

Can anyone guess the age or model#'s?

I have been told that the backpanel is tan and gold.

Do you think these machines have a light-up back panel and/or tub light?

4-18-2007-22-10-51--GadgetGary.jpg
 
Gary,

No lighted consoles on these models. I always look for the
little chrome divider above the control knob to know they
have the lighted glass panels.
I don't know what age they are but it was after they switched
from the blue lower trim to the gold. I know there is a
Maytag expert that can probably tell us the year that happened.

Patrick
 
A good indicator is the dryer. The halo of heat heater located in front of dryer changed. This dryer has the newer style heater - the door is larger then the halo heat models. With the gold control panel, I believe these models are the later part of the 70's (around 1979)

Bob
 
It looks like a 308 or 208 washer, can't make out the number of water level buttons, even enhanced a little here - it's still a toss up. A gold lower panel and "Big Load" dryer are both post-1975. That is actually one of my favorite dryer designs, while smaller capacity, it runs a very close second to the 29" Whirlpool made dryers. Maytag returned to a pilotless ignition after years of standing pilot nonsense, they increased capacity, moved the lint filter up front - and those machines were built like tanks.

Keep us posted, Gary!

4-18-2007-23-17-52--gansky1.jpg
 
It should have a powerfin agitator, and I think it's a 308. I think a 208 would have 2 speeds, like a 206. Made bet about 76 and 80.
 
...and its mate is a DE108 dryer. Both close to BOL but classic Maytags. This brochure doesn't feature it but the DE108 (or is it a DE208?) was between the new DE308 (that had two temp buttons) and the DE106 (that had the old style panel and no temp selection).

4-19-2007-08-36-48--bajaespuma.jpg
 
208 has four temp buttons, hot/warm, hot/cold, warm/cold/, cold/cold, Two speeds, regular and Gentle, and three load, sm, med, lg.
 
Got these home today

Steve(Toggle) and I did a clean-up inside and out. Boy, were they dirty. A yellow film was all over them(possibly from a smoker's house). The washer came with 'gunk' in the fabric softener dispenser, and, the dryer came with lint(YUK!).

The washer runs fabulous. It looks like there is a slight transmission leak. Can anyone help out with this problem?

Steve converted the dryer from 220V to 110V and has his eye on it for his temporary apt. However, since I like matched sets, I may be sweet-talking him out of it(Tee Hee).

Please see photo album of our 'Maytag' day in the link.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/nuggett33c/album?.dir=/3560re2&.src=ph
 
OOPSIE

This was GadgetGary speaking above(LOL).

SLAP!

I have to teach someone to log-out when he is done(HaHa!)

Oh Venus dahling, now I know what it it like to have two AW people in one house.
 
Tub Sizes

In that ad they mention two tub sizes...the A806 A608 and A408, vs the A208 A108 and A106. What is the difference in the capacities? I know the newest dependable cares were 2.9 cubic feet, and the models after that, such as the Atlantis were 3.3. What were those old models capacities?
 
The plug-queen at play!

Dryer: 220v to 110v conversion.

Many NYC apts generally have 40a 110/220v service. This is the required minimun. Sizng/capacity assumes gas cooking and heat and hot water (via fossil fuels) provided by landlord.

Using an electic dryer(which may have to be unvented) requires a 30a line. To me that is cutting it a bit too close.

Converting the dryer to 110v lowers the wattage draw of the heater to aproximately 1/4 of its normal 5,000w. Other than the heater, the other components all use 110v, so their wattage will not change.

5,000w heater on 220v +/- becomes 1,488w on 110v +/-. The ohns (resistance) stays constant. Thus the heater plus a 600w motor will function below 20a @ 110v! PERFECT!

Ohm's law calculator in linkie.
Conversion simply entailed heater going fron [L1(hot) and L2 (hot)] to [L1 (hot) and N (neutral)]. this can be seen in the pic on GadgetGary's photo-album of the wiring terminal- block. I took a jummper (grey) and shot the netural (center post) to the blue wire (heater).

I took an air-conditoner extenson cord and removed the male and female ends. It was gauge 12, 20a wire. Then it was just a matter of fitting a 110v plug!

This machine has time/temperature auto-dry that advances the timer when the heater is "off". This is important in that the 60 minute timer becomes woefully inadequate on a pitful < 1,500 watt heat source! The anticipated dryign time will shoot to over two hours form the standard one hour!

Use 220v, 5,000w. Derive ohms (9.68)
Then, plug in ohms with 120v. See resulting wattage!

http://www.angelfire.com/pa/baconbacon/page2.html
 
Gadgetswitch

I would contact Steve--(Mayken4now)..He knows everything about vintage Maytags and he is a real nice guy as well.

Have fun fellas!
 
Nice conversion - now you have a hair dryer for laundry ;-) I did this a lot when I had only 120v in the garage.

You can convert most any 220v dryer simply by moving the heater wire over to the neutral terminal and attaching your 120v cord to the L1 & neutral (center post) of the terminal block.

Auto-Dry will probably not work well at all, the temperature will be (slowly) reached but the timer will advance toward off too fast to allow sufficient time for the clothes to dry. You'll have to reset the timed dry cycle... Vintage dryers would commonly have 2 hours and longer on their timers because of the people who didn't have a 30A line for the new dryer or access to gas. I believe GE had a price-leader dryer in 57 or so that came with two cords attached.
 
It is Miss Enthanlpy to you dear. :-)

~Auto-Dry will probably not work well at all, the temperature will be (slowly) reached but the timer will advance toward off too fast to allow sufficient time for the clothes to dry.

HMMMM, I thought it might work in that the timer only advances with this system when the heat is off. We know that won't happen at all in the beginning of the cycle!

The latent heat of vaporization, changing water from a liquid to a gas (vapor), takes a great deal of energy and absorbs heat in the process, therby cooling the drum and out-going air.

I had converted my old GE of the early 60's for a neighbor who needed it. It was an excuse to buy a new one. That model, IIRC had a resistor that kept the amperage down when on 110v. It had a Gansky mentioned, a 2 hr timer and auto dry.
 
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